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  1. Hello all I'm new to this read forums my entire life when needing help on a issue someone had back in 99. But anyway I have a 2008 Yukon xl 5.3 bought it a few years back quickly realized there was a issue on top of issue. I got screwed and screwed big time. Truck was sold as 168k miles. It was clean nice good looking truck for 4800 bucks. Turns out won't go over 65. We'll we just said screw it and run it for a while until we got our excursion. So now I've been trying to fix it. I need help I've tried refresh at the dealer it sat there for a entire day in a bay with a tech and they couldn't figure it out. So back to the drawing board. Later on tried to trade it in they pulled the carfax trunk our dude swapped the cluster and it was said the last reported mileage was 278k. Well ******. I want to figure out why it will not surpass 65. It has all the gears. Engine has all the power. No limp mode no codes. I have even pulled the cluster and drove it and that didn't change anything. Please help. Thank you. Derick r.
  2. Hello all, 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 L33 5.3 with 208k miles. I did some research, and found that my oil pickup tube o-ring is most likely causing my oil pressure 'issues' The 'issue' is that in the morning during the first start up of the day, the oil pressure registers low enough to trigger the low oil pressure warning. At idle in PARK it will usually stabilize (when cold) between 5 and 20 psi, but it will drop below that when idling in DRIVE as well, during the first few minutes of operation. Asthe engine warms up, the oil pressure increases, and generally driving down the road when cold it reads 20 psi, when warm its 30-35 psi. Like I said, I believe the culprit is the pickup tube o-ring. My question is, what is involved in dropping the oil pan to replace this $5 part? Do I HAVE to remove the front diff and everything associated with it?
  3. My trucks going in for open heart surgery in a month. DOD delete, tsp stage 2 L83/5.3 cam in my L86/6.2. I eventually would love to put a blower on it. I drive the truck frequently and don’t want to do too big of a cam where I’ll have to change my torque converter. Will I get away with a L83 stage 3 cam with my stock converter or should I stick to the stage 2. Specs are 5.3L Stage 2 Camshaft w/ +32% Fuel Lobe: 218/226, 635", 113 LSA, 109 ICL All my mods will be intake, portable TB, (hopefully have my heads ported when it goes in for dod delete and cam) LT4 injectors, 1-7/8 long tube hears, off-road y-pipe. I’ll have a 3.5” electric cut out followed by stock exhaust for now. Trucks reverse level and blocks removed. 22x12 -51 285/35r22 no trimming or cutting
  4. Morning/ Afternoon, I have a question about over filling your oil with the newer silverado's. I recently just changed my oil since I got my truck about 3 months ago using the 0W-20 mobil 1. I put in 8 quarts exacly (without filling the filter). let it sit for a second then started her up. Truck ran for a couple of minutes then I shut it off, let it sit for about 10 min and checked the oil. I was not able to read the oil level as accurately as Im used to due to how freaking light the color of the oil lol, so light! I drove it for about a 100 miles, let it sit then checked it again. oil level was right above the hatch line if not right on it so I drained out just a tad to make me feel better then checked again. Now its sitting just above the top dimple but still within the hatch line area. So I guess my question is... Do you think over filling that much would be enough to damage any internals or pump? Any insight is very much appreciated, thank you.
  5. Okay folks... what is the consensus numbers on what a good set of 1 3/4” primary long tubes (Kooks, ARH, etc) will get you on an basically (maybe a CAI and a cat back) stock L83? Info/numbers on catted vs non-catted would be cool too. So would before and after tuning... even though it’s pretty much a given that you need a tune if you do long tubes. Thanks y’all!
  6. Hello , new to the group thanks so sorry if I’m posting to wrong group or if question has been asked before. My issue is that I bought a ‘15 1500 WT 5.3L that had around 350k with lazy #7 cylinder. So I bought used motor with around 100k from a ‘15 gmc 1500. Swapped motors out and when I went to start up I don’t get any crank, No gauges work, service error lights all come on. I’ve checked to make sure grounds are clean and tight, checked fuses inside cab and in engine bay, battery tests good, getting codes U0100 and U0102 and I’ve also installed new: -Engine Harness (found some splits on harness that came with motor so bought new one) -Computer (also have the original and one that came with the motor and I’ve tried swapping all 3 to see if that worked) -Relay panel in engine compartment Just seeing if anyone has any fix’s or tricks. Thanks
  7. Hello im new to this forum. I have been searching for silimar sounds my truck is making on here but i can't seem to find one. So my truck is a 2020 silverado rst 5.3 8 speed crewcab 4x4 and has 1,600 miles. It makes this clicking sound similar to a clock. I went underneath the truck to listen for the sound and it appears to be coming from transmission area. Any thoughts of what the sound is? Ill attach a sound clip. Its a cold start but it also does it when its warmed up. 20201103_053649_2_1.mp4
  8. Hello! First I’d like to say that I’m new here and not sure if I’m in the correct place to be asking this or not, but I am in need of serious help with this engine... The truck is a 1999 LS silverado 1500 with a 5.3L vortec v8 lm7 in it. 265K miles. When I first got the truck this wasn’t an issue it just progressively got worse and worse until it just did it fully 24/7. I know this is a very common issue with these engines, but the symptoms I’ve been having are not the same as what Ive been seeing other people having. The truck started having a low oil pressure problem, where it would be fine when cold full around 25-30 psi, then as it warmed up / as I drove it, the pressure would slowly drop until 0psi, sometimes this wouldn’t happen till after driving 50+ miles, sometimes it would happen in 10 miles. Now after replacing the pump it does it in literally 1 mile. After it would drop to 0psi the lifter chatter/tap/knock (whatever you want to call it) would finally start up. I would stop the truck kill the engine then restart it. Most of the time after id restart the engine, the pressure would rebuild back up (lifter tap would go away) and I’d go for a mile or two, and then the whole process would just repeat itself. Make a long story a bit shorter... I ended up replacing the oil pump, with a mellings 295 pump, cleaned out as much gunk as I could, got the oil pan nice and squeaky clean... The truck did fine for a couple hundred miles, had really good oil pressure. it did lose all oil pressure entirely on my first test drive but it never had a lifter tap or made any noise when that happened I just pulled over killed it, started it back up and bam it had normal oil pressure.... After that happened, the truck did fine for a couple hundred miles, then out of nowhere it would just randomly start ticking even when it had OK oil pressure 15-25 psi. Prior to replacing the pump when the engine was cold it wouldn’t even build up oil pressure right after starting, usually took like 10 seconds + of it running for it too build pressure. And it would only build up to about 25psi and it stayed there even when warm. Now after the oil pump replacement, when the engine is cold the oil pressure will build immediately and be at around 60 psi, then as it warms up it slowly drops to 40, I’ll get out onto the road and as I barely make my way down the road, it slowly drops until it gets down towards 5-10psi and then the lifter tap will start up, doesn’t usually drop fully down to 0 like it did prior to the oil pump replacement. It usually atleast has a couple psi, but that ain’t enough obviously lol cause it’s ticking. When it does this, I have no choice but to pull over, kill the engine, start it back up, and it builds back a little bit of pressure. But it still has the lifter tap it doesn’t go away like it would before “sometimes”.... And it’s bad, I can definitely feel a power loss, also can notice a change in the way the engine sounds other than ticking, like a ****** in the timing or something? I know it’s NOT good and the ticking means there’s no oil getting to the head, so please save the lecture, please... I’m just at a loss as to why this would still be happening after replacing the pump? The pump doesn’t do what it did before I replaced it, which was, it would fail to build pressure after starting the truck when cold, that’s what made me think the pump was failing so I replaced it, and the new pump DID fix that issue... lol but that’s it... so I know it can’t be the pump right? I mean it’s literally brand new... I also tried to make sure the o ring wasn’t pinched when re-installing the pump... I really just need some good insight on this issue from someone that knows these engines well, this is killing me! This is my only vehicle I need to get this figured out ASAP. I did all the work myself, 23 year old guy, grew up working on bikes then transferred over into cars/trucks, not an expert by any means but I’m no dummy that’s forsure hahahah. Any help is appreciated! & The truck is a great truck, it’s an all around clean truck, the last owner definitely took care of it, so it’s not like it’s a big ass pos. Well kinda I guess lol..
  9. Hello, 2012 Silverado 4X4 Ext Cab LC9 with 101k miles. As the title states, I have a unique situation. The cab and bed are entirely off of my truck (T-bone damage), thus I thought this would be a good time to do a DOD delete as well as any other recommended upgrades or repairs WHILE THE CAB AND BED ARE OFF! I haven't looked at too many kits yet (Scoggin Dickeys, Texas Speed, WS6Store, etc) and still figuring what I need/don't need. Definitely would like to put in a mild performance cam if it isn't too much extra. I'm new to these trucks, so I don't know all the weak spots other than the DOD system. Basically, I'm interested in bulletproofing the system much like 6.0 powerstroke owners had to do. I just heard about the oil pickup o-ring. WTH! Wow GM.... Worth it to do this at the same time as the DOD probably. Something about a AFM plate in the oil pan? But I'm open to your input. What else? something about timing chain guides??? I vaguely remember something about a fuel system issue being pretty common as well? Sorry if I am all over the place. SO many questions right now. I just got the cab off yesterday and pretty much planning on ordering what I need by the end of this week Be doing all the work myself Thanks!
  10. Hello, for the past two years my truck (2015 Sierra 1500 All Terrain) has been intermittently flashing service lights saying the to service ABS, to service stabillitrac, and to service parking sensors. This would happen a few times a month and would immediately go away and I would think that it was just an annoying bug. But since about a month ago, when making low speed left turns, as well as any size bump, caused it to happen. This worsens into ABS light and stabillitrac light on for one day. While this happened you could feel the ABS pumping at when braking normally. This too went away the next day. I took the truck to the dealer for a diagnostic and told them all of this as well. After the $190 diagnosis they said it was the following codes (attached photo) C0035-04, C0040-04, and C0035-0F. they told me both front hubs were bad and needed replacement. They wanted $1800 for parts and labor. I told them thank you and paid the diagnosis and took the truck home. After the dealer the trucks electronics and 10x worse. Now the ABS and Stabillitrac lights stay on permanently, the brake light dings and flashes with any turn of the steering wheel. Also getting constant service ABS, service trailer brakes, Service stabillitrac, and reduced steering assist. I bought both front hubs and wheel speed sensors. I installed them and torqued everything back to spec. After reconnecting the battery and taking a test drive nothing had changed. I took the top panel from the dash off and did the ground mods. Again, no change. I’m going crazy trying to find the problem. I the. Took the truck to autozone for a code read. It still says the same three codes and it did, even after replacing the parts and sensors the dealer said would work. If anyone knows what the cause is it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Dave
  11. Jricharc

    SOLD

    ITEM HAS BEEN SOLD.
  12. Well I had to get mufflers to correct my “fix it ticket.” I ended up getting a x pipe and dynomax bullets on my catback true duals for the new readers. Very disappointed in the sound. Going from straights to mufflers is depressing. No matter what mufflers it is and these are the loudest ones I could get. Not sure how I feel about the x pipe, I got it primarily to make the strange vaccum chop go away and it did that perfectly. However it might be contributing slightly to making it quieter, I don’t know. So if you’re out there and you want to make your exhaust a little louder- I can only recommend one thing (which i will be doing on my 18th birthday)- long tube headers, catless straight pipes with x pipe to 8” slash cut shorty tips.
  13. Which engine is better? I assume the 6.2 has more power and the 5.3 has better mpg, but how much of a difference is it?
  14. I have a 2019 Silverado LD with 21k miles on it. I noticed that if I'm in manual mode, I get a hard downshift from 3-2. No other gears. It does it off and on. What could it be?
  15. Hey Guys, I have a 2010 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV with a 5.3L LMG and a 6L80 Trans (MYC) looking to drop in a 6.2L L9H. As far as I understand it is a direct swap. Would I run in to any issues or codes as far as the L9H not having AFM/DOD? I plan on using the 5.3L PCM and having it re flashed to work with the 6.2 Or do I look for a L94 that has FlexFuel, VVT, AFM like the LMG does?
  16. I’m looking for a tuner or some sort that will provide me with some additional live data. Not really looking for a tune since I have a powertrain warranty through the dealer I bought from. Unless I can tune it and return it back to factory without the ecm registering that there was a tune on the truck.
  17. I have 2014 Silverado and went to the gas station one morning and out of nowhere started smelling gas inside of the truck. Long story short, went to look underneath truck and had a 3x3 ft size puddle of fuel underneath truck on ground. Looked to see where it was coming from and looks like it’s coming from back side of motor. Can anyone help or recommend any action to take from this?
  18. So I'm not sure if related to my tuner but reading through a lot of other posts and nobody has actually found an answer. My truck is tuned for my 35" tall tires so that the speedometer is correct. Anyways here is whats going on, I can set cruise control at 67mph, bump it up to 85mph but even if I bump it up to 68 once it hits 68mph it cancels cruise control. At 67mph it will stay on. Has anyone found a fix? Do I need to get rid of the tune and put an inline correction for the speedo? As I said, I'm tuned with a bullydog at 34.8inch tires, not sure if this problem was before or after the tune.
  19. Hi everyone. I have a 2000 Suburban I just bought a couple months ago. I got a couple of check engine codes I've been working through, but I'm stuck on these last three. I have the following current codes: P0175 (System Too Rich Bank 2), P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1), and P0430 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1). I had codes for knock sensors as well, but got them replaced, and only these three codes remain. I took temperatures at the exhaust ports on the manifolds on both sides. Bank 2 was significantly hotter than bank 1. By more than 100F-150F. I took temperatures at the inlet and outlet of both cats. Sometimes the outlet was hotter, sometimes it wasn't. I have a cheap Walmart infrared so I take all temp readings with a grain of salt however. Outlet temps were within 100F of the inlets. I also took readings of the o2 sensor voltages for upstream and downstream for both banks. The upstreams appeared fine but the downstreams were pretty inconsistent. Sometimes staying pretty flat near 0.03v, other times they'd spike. They did this regardless of being at idle, or revving the engine at 2000rpm in park. I'm slightly confused at the information I gathered today, I'm trying to determine what road to go down. I'm good at working on things, not so much diagnosing. I plan on replacing both downstream o2 sensors with new ACDelco's to start, and that should tell me if the cats are bad if the codes come back, if my thinking is correct. But I'm most confused about how one bank of cylinders could be running rich, but the other isn't? Shouldn't all fuel injectors be getting the same amount fuel, at the same pressure? Everything I've found online says if I have P0175, I should also have P0172.
  20. I have read hundreds of AFM collapsed lifter threads but have not been able to find someone with my same issue where it has been solved. Looking for your expertise in the cause, not looking for advise to turn AFM off as that is the plan but I want to properly fix the issue first. I have a 14 Silverado with a 5.3 with 50k miles and the issue I’m having is there is a pecking/knocking/rattle only when the truck is under light load while it is in V4 mode. Has anyone else experienced this where the noise occurs only while in V4 and while slightly accelerating? The are no check engine lights, no noises at idle, no noise while running on 8 cylinders, no smoke, no oil usage, and it doesn’t appear to have lost any power. The two possible problems I see are either: 1. One of the AFM lifters have failed in a way where it is not allowing the cylinder to deactivate which means the intake or exhaust valve will function like normal instead of closing during V4 mode. If this is the case is there any way to confirm this without a diagnostic scanner to put the truck in V4 at idle or to deactivate each cylinder? Is there any risk of further failure by not fixing this if I turn off AFM as it seems the “tabs” are just not disengaging within the lifter? 2. There is an issue somewhere within the VLOM portion with an actuator, oil port, something electronic that is preventing enough oil pressure to deactivate the lifter. If AFM is deactivated is there any risk with whatever is not working properly within this system? Basically, I am fine with turning AFM off as where I drive there is likely minimal impact but I don’t want to turn it off just to cover up a problem that will resurface in the near future as I don’t intend on getting rid of the truck any time soon.
  21. I don't know much about this system, how it operates, the stress that is placed on the lifters during cylinder deactivation. How common is this failure? Been watching some YouTube videos on the repair and it's very labor intensive...heads have to come off, etc. I see that you can buy the entire kit (lifters, gaskets) for around $500. Have a friend that told me...just change your oil, you'll be fine. The number one cause of this failure is neglected maintenance. That true? Or is it an inherited problem with the design of the system? The system came out in 2007, there must be some improvements made to it since then, no? I must say that the AFM is allowing me to get some excellent fuel economy out of a full size truck. So is this a common problem, or are there people with 200,000 on these trucks that never had an issue with it?
  22. I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 4x4 5.3l V8 with the 8 speed transmission. I already flushed out my transmission and filled it back up with the Mobil 1™ Synthetic LV ATF HP blue label. The question is, do i also use the HP fluid for my transfer case? Or do i need to use just a standard ATF fluid instead. I cant seem to find a straight answer on this. The owners manual states to use DEXRON®-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid. Would using regular ATF in the transfer case and HP ATF in the transmission cause any issues? Thanks in advance!
  23. I recently bought a used 2016 Sierra Denali 5.3L 4x4 in March with 48k miles. Truck has been great until yesterday (now 52k miles) when I ease into the gas it shudders and shakes like crazy until i punch it. The tach is bouncing up and down and it doesn't matter if it's in v8 or v4. It almost feels like it's a misfire but it's weird that it only does it when I'm easing into the throttle or going uphill. The truck has the 8 speed transmission. Has anyone else ran into something like this and would the manufacturer warranty cover the fix for this?
  24. So I have a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 5.3 at 35k miles and I got a flashing CEL for about 30 seconds a few weeks ago on the highway and took it it to auto parts store but it had no codes present. About a week and a half ago the CEL came on constant and it came up with the P50D Rough Idle and so I got oil changed and ran some fuel system cleaner through and after a couple days the light started flashing and ran rough for a few min, I parked it and started it 10 min later and it was a solid CEL again but I was able to pull a P300 General misfire code. Today it did the same thing but ran worse than ever and I thought it was going to die on me, shut it down for 10 min and it ran ok. Before I start throwing money at this where should I start, spark plugs, coil packs, injectors? I'm at a loss with only 35k and just passed the 3yr warranty. Thanks for any advice.
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