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Drives

  1. I have loud noises either coming from the tires or from driveline only 40,000 mi on it anyone else dealt with this? Also need trans fluid recommendations is it the Dex6 or is it Dex HP? The transmission kind has a little shift flair or slide bump shift from 1st to 2nd I hope this truck isn't starting to fall apart. The noise I mentioned is crazy loud even can feel vibrations through the floor when getting up to speed is it these tires or is there some other possible issue? It comes with these off road tires any input on this I would appreciate thank you.
  2. I have a 2008 Silverado 1500 LT with the 5.3 vortec and it needs a new engine. Is it possible to put a 2003 5.3 Vortec engine in this truck or not?
  3. Hello all, I have been dealing with a loud squealing noise from the driver side rear wheel on my truck since it had roughly 2k miles on it. It only makes the noise after the truck has sat for a few hours and then goes away after a hundred feet or so of driving. I unfortunately haven’t had much help from the dealership, other than them tightening up the leaf spring U-Bolts. Any help would be appreciated
  4. My l84 5.3 cracked some pistons now thinking of doing a light hone but wanted to know if it would even save the engine ? The scratches are pretty light my nail doesn’t get stuck but I do feel em. The pours on the other hand I’m not sure what could have caused those little things ?
  5. I recently bought a used 2016 Sierra Denali 5.3L 4x4 in March with 48k miles. Truck has been great until yesterday (now 52k miles) when I ease into the gas it shudders and shakes like crazy until i punch it. The tach is bouncing up and down and it doesn't matter if it's in v8 or v4. It almost feels like it's a misfire but it's weird that it only does it when I'm easing into the throttle or going uphill. The truck has the 8 speed transmission. Has anyone else ran into something like this and would the manufacturer warranty cover the fix for this?
  6. I have a 5.3 with the 6L80 in it and was hoping to swap over to a 6.2 but i can’t find much online about what i will need to replace, anything would help. I know i’ll need a new ECM and possibly a new flex plate but besides that i’m not sure. Thanks in advance!
  7. OK everyone I want to give thanks ahead for any advice and help. Truck in question= 2003 Chevy Suburban Z71, 5.3 L Transmission= 4L60-E So the story started when I was going down the road at about 50mph in cruise control, when suddenly I heard the engine begin to rev up. I hit the brake to take it out of cruise control and the engine stopped revving up. Apparently I lost transmission of power from the engine to the wheels because no matter what gear I put it into now, I get no movement from the vehicle. No reverse and no D1, 2 or 3. When I put the vehicle in park and attempt to push the vehicle it will not roll. When placed in any other gear I can then roll the vehicle freely. Before this happened: Since owning the vehicle 4x4 has always been shifty.....hehehe...sorry couldnt help it. I have the model where there are 4 buttons with lights the buttons are located left hand of dash near the turn signal. When I first got the truck sometimes it seemed like it didnt want to switch between gears. for example I would have to hit the button multiple times before it would switch and even then it seemed like it hadnt really switched but the lights would indicate it had. Most of the time the light for the button I selected would flash multiple times and then return to previous selection. Often times after turning the vehicle off and then returning to vehicle to go somewhere I would find that the light has switched back to a gear that it wasnt in when i left the vehicle. It seems to favor 4x4hi. As of lately I havent been able to get the lights to switch at all. It seems to be stuck in 4hi permanently. I have tested the 4wd switch and its fine. I tried unhooking battery for half hour with lights on to reset PC. I then reconnected battery cable and turned vehicle on but not start it. Then I pulled a bunch of fuses and plugged them back in. ( seen it in a video and the guy said it was supposed to wake up the TCCM) Well that did nothing. I have the truck off of all wheels right now and was trying to figure out if the transfer case is stuck in neutral. With the truck in drive as I turn the rear draft the front moves also. I am assuming that means it is in 4wd. But should I have someone hold the front drive shaft while i turn the rear drive shaft to confirm its not just from friction or something. I actually have the front drive shaft partly out right now in an attempt to get at and remove the shift motor and manually put the transfer case into 2hi. I am also considering changing out solenoids. I have gathered it is unlikely the shift solenoids. Is it possible it could be one of these: 1 * EPC (Pressure Control) Solenoid 1 * PWM Solenoid 1 * Manifold Pressure Switch 1 * TCC Solenoid w/Harness Another thing I suspect which would be an easy fix is the transfer case fluid level. I removed the fill plug and nothing came out. I can tell it has been leaking. I would have already topped it off but I have been stuck at home (no running vehicle lol). Could low fluid cause this issue? I hope that's all it is lol. Anyways I got a ride to the store tomorrow and to look at a back-up vehicle. Anything you guys recommend to grab from the parts store while I'm in town tomorrow? What would be your guys recommendation on how to solve this problem and fix it? All help is appreciated. thanks in advance, Aaron
  8. U0100 Lost communication with ECM U0073 CAN Bus Communication P2544 Transmission Torque Request Signal Message Counter Incorrect P0700 Transmission Control Module Requested MIL Illumination P1682 Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2 Good Morning Yall, Long time lurker, first time poster as a member, and really appreciate this forum. Recently the past year I have had some symptoms that didn’t affect the drivability of my 2014 Silverado z71 4x4 5.3, but were very present on a random basis, especially during rain. Service Stabilitrak, Service Trailer Brake(nothing being towed) popping up the screen, sometimes binging back to back for extended amounts of time near to 30 minutes frequently. Today the truck would not start, and presented these codes above under a check engine light. The truck started after having the battery disconnected for 15 minutes and has started since so far the previous 12 hours. Also while driving and the typical service notifications, one headlight being out, the truck engages the transmission at a slow roll/acceleration and a very very rough/lurching, almost feels like being rear-ended engagement, it would not engage power steering, and also presented a warning of reduced engine power. Some of these symptoms of course seem to be directly related to the codes, but seem to have progressed as time has gone on. One issue noticed was a tail light having a small crack, and a sliver of water pooled inside of it. I am unsure if that may be related to the issues present, but I have ordered new lamps. I have also previously installed a new ground cable from the battery to the block, and also verified the ground on the driver-side front beneath the dash/tweeter. The battery also tested good, so did all of the fuses on the battery side and the box side with the voltmeter. I have not checked the starter or alternator, but they are less than a year old. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Ben
  9. Hello all I'm new to this read forums my entire life when needing help on a issue someone had back in 99. But anyway I have a 2008 Yukon xl 5.3 bought it a few years back quickly realized there was a issue on top of issue. I got screwed and screwed big time. Truck was sold as 168k miles. It was clean nice good looking truck for 4800 bucks. Turns out won't go over 65. We'll we just said screw it and run it for a while until we got our excursion. So now I've been trying to fix it. I need help I've tried refresh at the dealer it sat there for a entire day in a bay with a tech and they couldn't figure it out. So back to the drawing board. Later on tried to trade it in they pulled the carfax trunk our dude swapped the cluster and it was said the last reported mileage was 278k. Well ******. I want to figure out why it will not surpass 65. It has all the gears. Engine has all the power. No limp mode no codes. I have even pulled the cluster and drove it and that didn't change anything. Please help. Thank you. Derick r.
  10. Hello all, 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 L33 5.3 with 208k miles. I did some research, and found that my oil pickup tube o-ring is most likely causing my oil pressure 'issues' The 'issue' is that in the morning during the first start up of the day, the oil pressure registers low enough to trigger the low oil pressure warning. At idle in PARK it will usually stabilize (when cold) between 5 and 20 psi, but it will drop below that when idling in DRIVE as well, during the first few minutes of operation. Asthe engine warms up, the oil pressure increases, and generally driving down the road when cold it reads 20 psi, when warm its 30-35 psi. Like I said, I believe the culprit is the pickup tube o-ring. My question is, what is involved in dropping the oil pan to replace this $5 part? Do I HAVE to remove the front diff and everything associated with it?
  11. My trucks going in for open heart surgery in a month. DOD delete, tsp stage 2 L83/5.3 cam in my L86/6.2. I eventually would love to put a blower on it. I drive the truck frequently and don’t want to do too big of a cam where I’ll have to change my torque converter. Will I get away with a L83 stage 3 cam with my stock converter or should I stick to the stage 2. Specs are 5.3L Stage 2 Camshaft w/ +32% Fuel Lobe: 218/226, 635", 113 LSA, 109 ICL All my mods will be intake, portable TB, (hopefully have my heads ported when it goes in for dod delete and cam) LT4 injectors, 1-7/8 long tube hears, off-road y-pipe. I’ll have a 3.5” electric cut out followed by stock exhaust for now. Trucks reverse level and blocks removed. 22x12 -51 285/35r22 no trimming or cutting
  12. Morning/ Afternoon, I have a question about over filling your oil with the newer silverado's. I recently just changed my oil since I got my truck about 3 months ago using the 0W-20 mobil 1. I put in 8 quarts exacly (without filling the filter). let it sit for a second then started her up. Truck ran for a couple of minutes then I shut it off, let it sit for about 10 min and checked the oil. I was not able to read the oil level as accurately as Im used to due to how freaking light the color of the oil lol, so light! I drove it for about a 100 miles, let it sit then checked it again. oil level was right above the hatch line if not right on it so I drained out just a tad to make me feel better then checked again. Now its sitting just above the top dimple but still within the hatch line area. So I guess my question is... Do you think over filling that much would be enough to damage any internals or pump? Any insight is very much appreciated, thank you.
  13. Okay folks... what is the consensus numbers on what a good set of 1 3/4” primary long tubes (Kooks, ARH, etc) will get you on an basically (maybe a CAI and a cat back) stock L83? Info/numbers on catted vs non-catted would be cool too. So would before and after tuning... even though it’s pretty much a given that you need a tune if you do long tubes. Thanks y’all!
  14. Hello , new to the group thanks so sorry if I’m posting to wrong group or if question has been asked before. My issue is that I bought a ‘15 1500 WT 5.3L that had around 350k with lazy #7 cylinder. So I bought used motor with around 100k from a ‘15 gmc 1500. Swapped motors out and when I went to start up I don’t get any crank, No gauges work, service error lights all come on. I’ve checked to make sure grounds are clean and tight, checked fuses inside cab and in engine bay, battery tests good, getting codes U0100 and U0102 and I’ve also installed new: -Engine Harness (found some splits on harness that came with motor so bought new one) -Computer (also have the original and one that came with the motor and I’ve tried swapping all 3 to see if that worked) -Relay panel in engine compartment Just seeing if anyone has any fix’s or tricks. Thanks
  15. Hello im new to this forum. I have been searching for silimar sounds my truck is making on here but i can't seem to find one. So my truck is a 2020 silverado rst 5.3 8 speed crewcab 4x4 and has 1,600 miles. It makes this clicking sound similar to a clock. I went underneath the truck to listen for the sound and it appears to be coming from transmission area. Any thoughts of what the sound is? Ill attach a sound clip. Its a cold start but it also does it when its warmed up. 20201103_053649_2_1.mp4
  16. Hello! First I’d like to say that I’m new here and not sure if I’m in the correct place to be asking this or not, but I am in need of serious help with this engine... The truck is a 1999 LS silverado 1500 with a 5.3L vortec v8 lm7 in it. 265K miles. When I first got the truck this wasn’t an issue it just progressively got worse and worse until it just did it fully 24/7. I know this is a very common issue with these engines, but the symptoms I’ve been having are not the same as what Ive been seeing other people having. The truck started having a low oil pressure problem, where it would be fine when cold full around 25-30 psi, then as it warmed up / as I drove it, the pressure would slowly drop until 0psi, sometimes this wouldn’t happen till after driving 50+ miles, sometimes it would happen in 10 miles. Now after replacing the pump it does it in literally 1 mile. After it would drop to 0psi the lifter chatter/tap/knock (whatever you want to call it) would finally start up. I would stop the truck kill the engine then restart it. Most of the time after id restart the engine, the pressure would rebuild back up (lifter tap would go away) and I’d go for a mile or two, and then the whole process would just repeat itself. Make a long story a bit shorter... I ended up replacing the oil pump, with a mellings 295 pump, cleaned out as much gunk as I could, got the oil pan nice and squeaky clean... The truck did fine for a couple hundred miles, had really good oil pressure. it did lose all oil pressure entirely on my first test drive but it never had a lifter tap or made any noise when that happened I just pulled over killed it, started it back up and bam it had normal oil pressure.... After that happened, the truck did fine for a couple hundred miles, then out of nowhere it would just randomly start ticking even when it had OK oil pressure 15-25 psi. Prior to replacing the pump when the engine was cold it wouldn’t even build up oil pressure right after starting, usually took like 10 seconds + of it running for it too build pressure. And it would only build up to about 25psi and it stayed there even when warm. Now after the oil pump replacement, when the engine is cold the oil pressure will build immediately and be at around 60 psi, then as it warms up it slowly drops to 40, I’ll get out onto the road and as I barely make my way down the road, it slowly drops until it gets down towards 5-10psi and then the lifter tap will start up, doesn’t usually drop fully down to 0 like it did prior to the oil pump replacement. It usually atleast has a couple psi, but that ain’t enough obviously lol cause it’s ticking. When it does this, I have no choice but to pull over, kill the engine, start it back up, and it builds back a little bit of pressure. But it still has the lifter tap it doesn’t go away like it would before “sometimes”.... And it’s bad, I can definitely feel a power loss, also can notice a change in the way the engine sounds other than ticking, like a ****** in the timing or something? I know it’s NOT good and the ticking means there’s no oil getting to the head, so please save the lecture, please... I’m just at a loss as to why this would still be happening after replacing the pump? The pump doesn’t do what it did before I replaced it, which was, it would fail to build pressure after starting the truck when cold, that’s what made me think the pump was failing so I replaced it, and the new pump DID fix that issue... lol but that’s it... so I know it can’t be the pump right? I mean it’s literally brand new... I also tried to make sure the o ring wasn’t pinched when re-installing the pump... I really just need some good insight on this issue from someone that knows these engines well, this is killing me! This is my only vehicle I need to get this figured out ASAP. I did all the work myself, 23 year old guy, grew up working on bikes then transferred over into cars/trucks, not an expert by any means but I’m no dummy that’s forsure hahahah. Any help is appreciated! & The truck is a great truck, it’s an all around clean truck, the last owner definitely took care of it, so it’s not like it’s a big ass pos. Well kinda I guess lol..
  17. Hello, 2012 Silverado 4X4 Ext Cab LC9 with 101k miles. As the title states, I have a unique situation. The cab and bed are entirely off of my truck (T-bone damage), thus I thought this would be a good time to do a DOD delete as well as any other recommended upgrades or repairs WHILE THE CAB AND BED ARE OFF! I haven't looked at too many kits yet (Scoggin Dickeys, Texas Speed, WS6Store, etc) and still figuring what I need/don't need. Definitely would like to put in a mild performance cam if it isn't too much extra. I'm new to these trucks, so I don't know all the weak spots other than the DOD system. Basically, I'm interested in bulletproofing the system much like 6.0 powerstroke owners had to do. I just heard about the oil pickup o-ring. WTH! Wow GM.... Worth it to do this at the same time as the DOD probably. Something about a AFM plate in the oil pan? But I'm open to your input. What else? something about timing chain guides??? I vaguely remember something about a fuel system issue being pretty common as well? Sorry if I am all over the place. SO many questions right now. I just got the cab off yesterday and pretty much planning on ordering what I need by the end of this week Be doing all the work myself Thanks!
  18. Okay so I have a 2008 GMC Sierra with 130 on a 5.3. It's my daily driver and now has some issues. Basically a misfire in cylinder 2 that I would like any good help with before I keep trying new things that might not work. So the stalibitrak and traction control lights also flash and are on regularly which started at the same time. Meanwhile the engine light has flashed for a couple seconds but is usually solid. It is a p0302 misfire. So far I have cleaned the MAF, checked for leaks, changed all spark plugs, coils, and wires, ran some seafoam through it at the brake booster line and some in the gastank. I pulled the new spark plug after it didn't work for inspection and it was very carbon fouled after 3 days and very little driving. It runs good at higher speeds but idles rough and loud I would say klunky. Has not stalled. So Does anyone have any ideas before I keep changing things that are not the problem? 2008 Chevy Silverado/ 08 GMC Sierra 5.3
  19. Hello, for the past two years my truck (2015 Sierra 1500 All Terrain) has been intermittently flashing service lights saying the to service ABS, to service stabillitrac, and to service parking sensors. This would happen a few times a month and would immediately go away and I would think that it was just an annoying bug. But since about a month ago, when making low speed left turns, as well as any size bump, caused it to happen. This worsens into ABS light and stabillitrac light on for one day. While this happened you could feel the ABS pumping at when braking normally. This too went away the next day. I took the truck to the dealer for a diagnostic and told them all of this as well. After the $190 diagnosis they said it was the following codes (attached photo) C0035-04, C0040-04, and C0035-0F. they told me both front hubs were bad and needed replacement. They wanted $1800 for parts and labor. I told them thank you and paid the diagnosis and took the truck home. After the dealer the trucks electronics and 10x worse. Now the ABS and Stabillitrac lights stay on permanently, the brake light dings and flashes with any turn of the steering wheel. Also getting constant service ABS, service trailer brakes, Service stabillitrac, and reduced steering assist. I bought both front hubs and wheel speed sensors. I installed them and torqued everything back to spec. After reconnecting the battery and taking a test drive nothing had changed. I took the top panel from the dash off and did the ground mods. Again, no change. I’m going crazy trying to find the problem. I the. Took the truck to autozone for a code read. It still says the same three codes and it did, even after replacing the parts and sensors the dealer said would work. If anyone knows what the cause is it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Dave
  20. Jricharc

    SOLD

    ITEM HAS BEEN SOLD.
  21. Well I had to get mufflers to correct my “fix it ticket.” I ended up getting a x pipe and dynomax bullets on my catback true duals for the new readers. Very disappointed in the sound. Going from straights to mufflers is depressing. No matter what mufflers it is and these are the loudest ones I could get. Not sure how I feel about the x pipe, I got it primarily to make the strange vaccum chop go away and it did that perfectly. However it might be contributing slightly to making it quieter, I don’t know. So if you’re out there and you want to make your exhaust a little louder- I can only recommend one thing (which i will be doing on my 18th birthday)- long tube headers, catless straight pipes with x pipe to 8” slash cut shorty tips.
  22. Which engine is better? I assume the 6.2 has more power and the 5.3 has better mpg, but how much of a difference is it?
  23. I have a 2019 Silverado LD with 21k miles on it. I noticed that if I'm in manual mode, I get a hard downshift from 3-2. No other gears. It does it off and on. What could it be?
  24. Hey Guys, I have a 2010 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV with a 5.3L LMG and a 6L80 Trans (MYC) looking to drop in a 6.2L L9H. As far as I understand it is a direct swap. Would I run in to any issues or codes as far as the L9H not having AFM/DOD? I plan on using the 5.3L PCM and having it re flashed to work with the 6.2 Or do I look for a L94 that has FlexFuel, VVT, AFM like the LMG does?
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