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Found 163 results

  1. I have a 5.3 with the 6L80 in it and was hoping to swap over to a 6.2 but i can’t find much online about what i will need to replace, anything would help. I know i’ll need a new ECM and possibly a new flex plate but besides that i’m not sure. Thanks in advance!
  2. Greetings. New guy here, so please freely call me out an any forum missteps. I started out with a base model 2018 GMC Sierra 4wd, regular cab, standard bed. It has a snow plow package and 3.42 gears. Onyx Black. No frills. I'll try and remember the order in which I did everything. All work do date has been done in my driveway, which I'm reasonably proud of because I work a job where I mostly send emails and sit in meetings. -- Debadging happened the first day of ownership... just my thing, costs nothing. -- Blacked out my front badge with with plasti dip -- Removed the air dam -- Cover King carpeted dash mat added, in the color of 'wine'. -- Cover King saddle blanket seat covers added in wine/whiteish.... returned after about a month because they were coming apart at the seams in a quite literal sense. Back to my grey cloth seats. -- Added a Rough Country 2 inch level (those cheap spacer things that are shaped like 'C' -- Brow tint on the windshield and multiple layers of Collinite way done by Motoring Images in Lee NH (ok, this wasn't in my driveway) -- Airaid modular intake and filter added. Sounds great, I'm a fan. -- Borla ATAK cat back system with polished tips. Sounds wonderful. -- Diablo Intune3 handheld tuner, custom (non dyno, remote) tuned further for 91+ and some extra oomph by Lew. -- Mudflaps installed and ultimately removed because they were the no drill kind and drilling would have helped from losing one in a carwash or who knows where, so those are gone.
  3. I recently bought a used 2016 Sierra Denali 5.3L 4x4 in March with 48k miles. Truck has been great until yesterday (now 52k miles) when I ease into the gas it shudders and shakes like crazy until i punch it. The tach is bouncing up and down and it doesn't matter if it's in v8 or v4. It almost feels like it's a misfire but it's weird that it only does it when I'm easing into the throttle or going uphill. The truck has the 8 speed transmission. Has anyone else ran into something like this and would the manufacturer warranty cover the fix for this?
  4. Cutout system installed on my Trail Boss
  5. Took my 2017 Chevy Silverado z71 to the dealer today . Engine was ticking on top end sounded like a lifter tick and slight deeper knock in bottom end . oil presure was all over the place would go from 65 psi to 25 psi at same rpm. I have 44,000 miles. Has anyone else had this issue? With the strike in play who know how long I will be without my truck.
  6. I have a 2008 Silverado 1500 LT with the 5.3 vortec and it needs a new engine. Is it possible to put a 2003 5.3 Vortec engine in this truck or not?
  7. I apologize for the novel, but here we go! Alright, so 2011 Tahoe 5.3 LMG Flex vin 0, 158k miles, never given me any issues ever before. Drove it up on ramps last night to get under it to just check everything before I tow a trailer over the weekend. All fine and dandy. Go to start it to back off of the ramps-dash and running lighter all turn on. Turn the key to ignition and....nothing. If I try to remote start it, I just get an electronic noise. Took the starter off last night and tested it multiple times at my work (advance auto) and my starter was super dead. Sweet, found my issue, right? Got a new starter. Put it on. Still no crank. No click. No nothing except everything else on the truck acts like it normally would when you turn the key. I checked connection between the positive terminal on battery and the starter with a multimeter -just fine. My battery is perfectly fine. Tested it multiple times now. Have a charger. Made sure it's fully charged. Double and triple checked. Looked at all the applicable fuses I can think ofand swapped the starter relay with the ac relay (they are identical) and it changed nothing. This then led me to believe maybe the ignition switch in the steering column was bad. Put a new one in today. Same exact issue. It changed absolutely nothing. Everything turns on but no crank and no relay sounds or anything. Almost thinking that something isn't sending the signal to the little wire connector that is on the starter selenoid (attached to the starter). But I feel like I've checked everything that could block that. I'm running out of ideas and I NEED (super awesome timing!) this truck to move from Lincoln to Omaha starting tomorrow ugh Was wondering if putting 12v constant to that little plug wire on the starter solenoid may skip whatever is not sending the signal, which I guess would just confirm that there's no signal. I dunno. 8+hours into this so far. First time this truck has ever given me issues in 158k miles. Also, no, it will not start in neutral. Any tips would be awesome!
  8. To preface this thread; I am not looking to go to Bonneville or the Autobahn. Now that that's out of the way... 98-99 MPH when it's still pulling hard, and is on T Speed Rated tires, is a bit of a let down. I don't go that fast all the time, but I have found myself hitting the nanny state leash a time or two on the toll roads not far from where I am. In the immediate future is a CAI cold air that I will need a DiabLew Tune update to get the best results from. My thinking is that when he does the update, he also moves the limiter. Here is my question: What is the max safe top speed we can set it to? I say max safe from the stand point of not exceeding the drive shaft's max rotational speed, what Complete Street Performance called "Critical Speed". The truck in question is a 2018 Silverado 1500 LT TX Edition, Crew Cab, Short Box, 2WD, 5.3L, 6L80, 3.42 G80 rear diff, one piece driveshaft, on a 265/65R-18 112T Tire. If going off the speed rating of the tires, one would say 118. The speed rating chart is common knowledge, but not the end all answer. Again, what I'm not sure about is the max speed of the truck vs rotation speed of the drive shaft with my combination of trans, rear diff, and tire size. I'm thinking... 110-115. Thank y'all in advance!
  9. I have a grant steering wheel assembly, but I need more insight on how to install. Watched a bunch of videos but couldn't find a good one for what I doing.
  10. Hey All, I've had a lot of folks ask me about installing my new driveshaft. I will link the thread for the high HP driveshaft. Here is how to remove and install a driveshaft for GM 1500 Trucks. Hope this helps. 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands and block the front wheels. Or use a lift. 2. Place the transmission in Neutral with the parking break OFF. 3. Important** Make a reference mark on the driveshaft and the Pinion flange (if keeping original driveshaft) in line with each other. 4. Remove the rear universal joint bolts and retainers. Rotate the shaft in the most convenient way as to not allow the shaft to spin. Try inserting a screwdriver in the shaft yoke to keep the shaft steady. 5.For Two piece shafts remove the fasteners from the center support bearing. 6. On ALL models, tape the bearing caps to the universal join to prevent the caps from coming off during removal 7. Lower the rear of the shaft and slide the front of the shaft out of the transmission or transfer case. 8. cover the transfer case or transmission with plastic wrap or plastic bag to decrease fluid loss or contamination. DONE!! Installation 1. Assuming the oil seal is in good shape slide the front of the driveshaft into the transmission or transfer case. 1.2. On models with two piece shafts raise the center support bearing into position, install the fasteners and torque to 30 FT-Lbs 2. Raise the rear of the drive shaft into position (make sure to align your marks if reusing your current shaft), install the fasteners and tighten to 18 ft-lbs 3. Install the clamps and bolts. Tighten all bolts to 18 ft-lbs. **FYI The yoke bolts are 118 ft-lbs. Here is a video from youtube that may help too. Here is my post about an upgraded driveshaft, 1,200 Hp and 8,300 torque.
  11. Hey guys just wanted to share tis bit of info that I was able to find. It was difficult locating a driveshaft for a 14+ GM 1500 so I hope this helps. After spending tons of time trying to find a less complicated way to upgrade my DS I visited alldrivelines.com (referral from a member) and saw the 800hp rated 2 piece shaft. I called to verify compatibility and was let down by the rep. It is not user friendly for the 4x4's. However, after asking me some great questions Shelby @ Alldrivelines (661) 633-2303 simply said why don't you get our 1,200hp rated driveshaft for the 14+ GM 1500.. I said ..."wait huh". Tell me more. This is currently not listed on the website. It is a 5" 6061 Aluminum shaft with a .125 wall thickness. It is rated for over 1,200 HP and 7,300 ft tq. She can get the correct size for other models too (bespoke). I'm running the following with a Stock Trans/Transfer Case and ride hight. Make: GMC Model: Sierra 1500 Denali Drive: AWD/4WD Loc: Rear Bed: 5'9" Chassis: 143.5"WB Doors: 4 Door After some negotiating it ended up being $580 SHIPPED from CA to MA!!!. (She also suggested the upgraded billet slip yoke rated 1200hp it was an extra $100 so I'm actually $680.00 shipped)** Just a heads up folks. If you want a Driveshaft that can handle high speeds, high HP and TQ this is the place to go. Call Alldriveline (661) 633-2303 and ask for Shelby. Mention my last name Melaas and they'll cut you the same deal. A 1,200 hp rated shaft with the billet yolk for $680 shipped. I don't get anything for it I just asked if I could refer my friends here for the same deal and she said sure. Very nice Lady. Lastly it is a 2-3 day processing and shipping for me (ca - ma) is about 3-4 days. I should have it next Thursday! I will send pics. PM if you have any questions.
  12. Hey everyone, I need some advice! I've spent countless hours using the search function, sending PM's to members (and you guys don't need to respond again if you don't want to), and listening to YouTube videos (which suck because you can't hear what they sound like from inside the cab going down the road)...but I still can't make up my mind! I want to do a muffler swap on my truck (details in signature). I don't want to spend the money on a full cat-back system...I'm just going to swap the muffler and cut the factory tail pipe so it dumps over the rear axle. I want the sound to be deep and aggressive under acceleration....but close to stock (no drone) while cruising....and without any goofy stuff going on when it switches to V4 mode. My budget is around $200. I've narrowed my choices down to 5 different mufflers....and will explain my concerns & reasons for hesitation with each one. In no particular order: Magnaflow 22" 12589 - I'm concerned about it being too quiet (unless I'm at WOT) for people to even notice, and also worried about drone while cruising (I've heard too many people that complained about magnaflows having drone) Borla Sport 19131347 - I'm concerned about it being too loud in the cab while cruising and switching V8/V4 (or just too loud in the cab in general) Borla Touring 19131346 - Basically just concerned that it's going to be too tame, and I won't hardly be able to tell any difference from stock. Not worried about the drone with this one though. Dynomax VT 17949 - I'm worried about the spring/valve assembly breaking or rattling...and having to get it fixed or replaced after a short period of time. I like the concept, but the moving parts make me nervous. Dynomax Ultra Flo 20" 17233 - Can't find a single sound clip of this muffler on a 5.3; worried about drone and V8/V4 noise I would appreciate any advice (or sound clips) you all can provide. I'm a nervous wreck over this situation, and I can only afford to do this once! Also, please skip the comments about Corsa (I know they're awesome, but I refuse to spend that much money on a muffler) and straight pipes (been there, done that...over it). Thanks in advance everyone!
  13. I don't know much about this system, how it operates, the stress that is placed on the lifters during cylinder deactivation. How common is this failure? Been watching some YouTube videos on the repair and it's very labor intensive...heads have to come off, etc. I see that you can buy the entire kit (lifters, gaskets) for around $500. Have a friend that told me...just change your oil, you'll be fine. The number one cause of this failure is neglected maintenance. That true? Or is it an inherited problem with the design of the system? The system came out in 2007, there must be some improvements made to it since then, no? I must say that the AFM is allowing me to get some excellent fuel economy out of a full size truck. So is this a common problem, or are there people with 200,000 on these trucks that never had an issue with it?
  14. Here's my new to me CPO 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 5.3/8spd LTZ w/ LTZ Plus Package and Z71 Package. Silver Ice on Jet Black Here are pics the day I picked it up from Lone Star Chevrolet in Houston TX on Feb 28. Mods are going to be the usual and will be listed below Thanks for looking!
  15. So I have recently purchased a Range AFM disabler for my 2017 Silverado 1500 E-assist because of the constant stopping and starting at stop lights, exhaust drone from V4, weird shifting from V4 to V8 and my transmission liking to jerk/shifting hard every so often. After installing the Range device, it has solved my transmission issues, disabled stopping and starting at stop lights, and has been keeping it in V8 mode 24/7! The only thing I have noticed is that when I am decelerating from a speed of around 50 MPH or more, the engine will have a fast repetitive backfiring popping sound until i either get back on the gas pedal or have reached a speed of 35 MPH. It seems to happen when i am decelerating slowly and not fast, starts to backfire when it starts to downshift at around 900-1100 RPMs I have a flowmaster Super40 cat-back dual 2.5 inch exhaust with the third "cat" still on. It used to not backfire when the AFM was active BUT when decelerating, it would switch back into V4 mode. is there a way to fix this? Is there too much freeflowing exhaust? Can this backfiring through the exhaust cause any damage if left unfixed? Thanks, -Hunter
  16. Hey guys here is another HOW TO. I've seen a lot of questions for these but not actual HOW TO's. Hope these help Disconnect Battery Terminal Remove Air BOX assembly. Unplug MAP sensor Unplug EVAP solenoid (Picture is 5.3 L, the 6.2 {L86} is on the throttle body) Pull the wire-harness off the Plastic intake cover. Remove Throttle Body (4 bolts) Or disconnect Throttle Body wire. Remove the intake manifold bolts 1/4 turn at a time until you can loosen and remove by hand. (see diagram for pattern). A little trick for the number 7 Bolt, get a deep well socket and place on bolt, then put the ratchet on the socket and loosen. When re-installing the manifold follow the pattern in two torque specs. Step 1 44 in-lbs Step 2 89 in-lbs
  17. Have a leak from the back of the motor that is getting worse. I collected some of it today and it's anti-freeze. I was thinking it was from near the front of the engine but parked it in the driveway and the puddle is near the back. I do have to add coolant; maybe went through a gallon over the last 12/18 months. It also does use oil, maybe a quart over 3000 miles. I thought it was also leaking oil but this coolant did not appear to have any oil with it. It's an 02 with 240K on it and I've had it for about 4 years. I've never really worked on an LS motor so advice would be great.
  18. I am trying to install courtesy lights with the GMC logo on my 2008 Sierra but after getting the first one drilled I realized there is not a light in the reflector on the door. Can anyone provide the related diagram for the wiring within the door / does anyone know if any of the door lights are only activated when the door is opened so that I can tie into those wires? It's a crew cab so I will be attempting to install them on all four doors. TIA.
  19. Good morning, So I'm finally going to reach out to my fellow Silverado and Sierra owners. I have been dealing with a harmonic vibration issue with my 2014 Silverado crew cab 5.3 2WD for around 5 months. I have taken my truck into 3 different dealers to only have the driveshaft replaced under the powertrain warranty and it fixed about 40% of my vibration issue. The vibration can be felt in the gas pedal, steering wheel, seat, and it can be heard. It sounds a lot like a phasing boom. The dealer that replaced the driveshaft has said they now believe its my "CHEAP hancook tires" but I can duplicate the vibration with the truck supported on jack stands under the axle housing (not changing the pinion angle) with the wheels removed. Now with the wheels removed the vibration is not as bad but its still the same vibration I'm experiencing. One dealer told me I have a bent axle but I don't have any wobble side to side with the wheel on. the driver side wheel does look like it has a highspot with the wheel installed (you can swap wheels with the same results). the tech that replaced the driveshaft said he checked the axles and the checked out okay... Now I have yet to get a good dry warm day to throw a dial indicator on it myself to check but I wanted to check with yall and see what you think. the next nice day I get I plan on pulling the diff cover and taking a look inside. but any help would be much appreciated. I took it in to see about trading back into a Toyota and they didn't want to give me hardly anything for it and the new TRD Tacoma I drove just seemed so cheap for the $36,xxx they wanted for it. My Silverado has a lot more features plus im a fan of the LS engines so I plan on trying to resolve this issue before I try to trade it again. vibration is felt from 20-70+mph the worst is 55-65mph. running boards have been removed, new trans mount, new complete driveshaft. tires have been rotated and the vibration is still coming from the rear center of the truck. Vibrates in V4 & V8, and in neutral. I also have a case opened with GM on this issue since October 2018 so it's well documented. 2014 Silverado LT 5.3L 6l80e 2WD crew cab. (built in the mexico plant) 87,XXX MILES. Please keep the stupid comments to yourself. I just want to get this issue resolved so I can enjoy this truck.
  20. I have a 2010 Silverado 5.3 LT 4x4 and my engine stalls when accelerating or revving, it doesn't get past 2000RPMs and starts making a deep almost rumble noise. I unplugged my MAF it almost kills my engine so I didn't believe it was that. I just replaced my TPS. After somebody recommending I test my fuel pressure, I did so and the results were as follows: Fuel pressure at 60psi with power on (not started), about 57 idling, and once you press in the accelerator, almost immediately shakes between 40-43 and doesn't move from there until the engine stalls out. Is this my fuel pump or something else entirely? Thanks for the assistance.
  21. Having a major loss of power especially noticable when going up hill, and terrible fuel mileage(350 km to an 90 litre tank) have done all the basic things it could be like maf sensor, plugs + wires, Fuel filter, and air filter. I’ve heard talk about it being the cats but they are relatively new and got no codes, and help would be very appreciated!
  22. I just bought a 2010 Silverado LTZ 4x4 last Thursday and a few days ago it started leaking oil, and now I noticed it smokes from the engine bay on startup. It's not a lot of smoke, but it smokes on startup and smells like something is burning and then a few seconds later it'll stop. I opened up my engine bay and it looks like it is coming from the passenger side exhaust manifold, maybe a worn exhaust gasket? I'm not sure. It is white smoke, and there is a little bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust as well. It's hardly noticeable from the exhaust, but when looking in the engine bay you can clearly see it. If anyone has any ideas what this could be please help me out.
  23. If you look at my post history you'll see why I had to change out these injectors so I'll spare that story. Since I never found a guide on this I hope this helps someone else who needs it. I by no means am a proper mechanic but I have done something's in the past it was moderate in challenge. So right to it. Tools needed 10mm deep socket,13mm deep socket 17mm open ended wrench, fuel line removal tool, different size extensions, a palm grip socket tool, pry bar or clip removal tool, flat head screwdriver. Remove the plastic shrouds from the sides of the engine. Remove the oil cap and the hose from the air box on the driver's side. Passenger side just remove the hose from the air box. Now that that's done, remove the fuel pump fuse and start your truck until it runs out of gas congratulations you've depressurized the gas lines. Unhook the battery. Remove the air box in front by in screwing the hose clamps and remove the 2 hoses. Starting with the hose on the passenger side then remove the middle. Remove all the connectors Attached and the grommets holding them to the shroud. Then unscrew the four screws on the plastic shroud don't bother trying to take the plastic shroud off the engine just yet. Remove the 10 screws 10mm off the sides. Warning there is a tricky one in the back of the passenger side way back I had to use a palm wrench to remove it. They are not on tight so it's not a leverage issue it's getting your hand on them to turn. Once you have them loose (they do not come out the just get really loose) tilt the screw towards the outside of the truck and pull out. Start with the ones up front so you can see/feel how it's done so when you have to do it blind you will know. There is a harness connected on the back I took a pry bar and popped them out you can feel back there with your hands there are 3. Now slide the whole top right off lifting the front and picking up the back slightly to pull towards the front of the truck. Remove the foam shielding underneath and now you can see the fuel rails. From this point it's straight forward. Remove the line with a 17mm wrench. I took these all off to separate the rails and replaced them. Now you need to remove the clips from the fuel line the remove the fuel line on the driver side with a fuel line tool I did mine above the bracket and removed the bracket for space. Now unhook the two quick connect electric plugs from the back of the fuel rails. It's tough but you can just barely fit your hand back there. With a 13mm socket remove the bolts holding down the rails. I removed the rails separately. You can just pull them out it's a bit snug but you don't need to hulk them out they just kind of pop out. Once out remove the connectors pop the clips out and pull the injectors straight out of the rail. Mine came out without any issues. Replace same way they came out pop them in to the rail then clip back on making sure the two nipples are in the square hole on the clip you'll see it when you try to get them on. Place the rail back into the holes and if it's in right without the bolts it's won't just pop out it will have slight resistance and snug. Do this for both sides put the two connectors at the back back in. Reconnect the fuel lines from the middle working your way to the final snap in line. Place the foam cover on top and reassemble your top. Remember to double check the connectors. Do not over tighten, everything was hand tight removing and should be going back in. Once all reassembled put your fuse back in for your fuel pump reconnect the battery and turn your car to power it but not turn over let the fuel lines re-pressure. I did it three times then turned it over, started up drove it 20miles shut it off and turned it back on no check engine light and ran wonderful. Saved 2k it took me 3hours start to finish but I did this with no guide and no assistance if you can have a second pair of hands it's helpful but not necessary. If I had to do this again probably would estimate it taking 1.5hrs knowing you cannot remove the plastic shroud on the engine is pretty silly but it was the single most frustrating part of the whole ordeal. I'm exhausted but I wanted to post this now so I didn't forget the steps I will re-read this tomorrow morning and edit or add things I missed. I will try and add pictures to this post. I did not take any during because you know you don't think of these things during but I hope this helps.
  24. Hi all, First post. Just wanted to share this story and get feedback and see if others have had a similar experience. At approximately 70,000 kms I started noticing an engine tick. At first I assumed it was some sort of direct injection noise. It got worse. Eventually I lost almost all power and I brought the truck in to the dealer for servicing. I was told that I had a bent push rod on cylinder #4. That was replaced and nothing else. I questioned why this happened and I was told it is common. At 85,000 kms the tick returned/got worse. Again I brought the truck to the dealer. Eventually (after a few arguments) they decided to replace valves/lifters on the 4 AFM cylinders, and they found another bent push rod. When I went to pick up the truck, the noise was still there. They completed further diagnostics and found scuffing on 2 pistons. They called GM and they said to replace the engine. Full engine replacement! Any thoughts, comments on this? I haven't got the truck back yet - waiting on engine to be replaced. Matt
  25. Ok so long story short I found a big oil puddle in my driveway after parking my 14 Sierra with the 5.3. The dealer I took it to said the rear main seal blew and the cause was the combination of cold temperatures and the oil catch can that I put on the vehicle. I installed the elite engineering e2 can with one way check valve. Has anyone else had this issue? They're telling me since I put that system on it voids the warranty and I have to pay for the rear main needless to say I'm pretty pissed
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