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Found 147 results

  1. Hi all, First post. Just wanted to share this story and get feedback and see if others have had a similar experience. At approximately 70,000 kms I started noticing an engine tick. At first I assumed it was some sort of direct injection noise. It got worse. Eventually I lost almost all power and I brought the truck in to the dealer for servicing. I was told that I had a bent push rod on cylinder #4. That was replaced and nothing else. I questioned why this happened and I was told it is common. At 85,000 kms the tick returned/got worse. Again I brought the truck to the dealer. Eventually (after a few arguments) they decided to replace valves/lifters on the 4 AFM cylinders, and they found another bent push rod. When I went to pick up the truck, the noise was still there. They completed further diagnostics and found scuffing on 2 pistons. They called GM and they said to replace the engine. Full engine replacement! Any thoughts, comments on this? I haven't got the truck back yet - waiting on engine to be replaced. Matt
  2. T1 Exhaust

    Cutout system installed on my Trail Boss
  3. Ok so long story short I found a big oil puddle in my driveway after parking my 14 Sierra with the 5.3. The dealer I took it to said the rear main seal blew and the cause was the combination of cold temperatures and the oil catch can that I put on the vehicle. I installed the elite engineering e2 can with one way check valve. Has anyone else had this issue? They're telling me since I put that system on it voids the warranty and I have to pay for the rear main needless to say I'm pretty pissed
  4. I have a 2001 GMC Sierra with the 5.3 Vortec with about 211K miles. Over the past 5 months or so I've noticed the MPGs have TANKED. Be aware this is a Regular Cab 2WD! Early spring last year I was getting about 15-16 MPG with 75% hilly-city driving. Summer came around, I was still receiving 15-16 MPG. As of today, on my last fill-up I averaged 13.4 MPG. Previous two fill-ups were in the ~14.5 range. I very rarely pass the 2000RPM rev-range. I have a code that pops up every once in a while for a Downstream O2 sensor. I have a pending code for a UPstream O2 sensor. I've heard the Upstream sensors have a large play on MPG? Trucks rear end fluid, engine oil, and transmission fluid were changed May 2018. I also cleaned my Air Filter, MAF and Throttle Body about two days ago to attempt a quick fix. Any tips will help. Things I've also tried: Seafoam (2 weeks ago) runs wayyy better Marvel's mystery oil (mid-summer) did not change at thing...
  5. Here's my new to me CPO 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 5.3/8spd LTZ w/ LTZ Plus Package and Z71 Package. Silver Ice on Jet Black Here are pics the day I picked it up from Lone Star Chevrolet in Houston TX on Feb 28. Mods are going to be the usual and will be listed below Thanks for looking!
  6. Good morning, So I'm finally going to reach out to my fellow Silverado and Sierra owners. I have been dealing with a harmonic vibration issue with my 2014 Silverado crew cab 5.3 2WD for around 5 months. I have taken my truck into 3 different dealers to only have the driveshaft replaced under the powertrain warranty and it fixed about 40% of my vibration issue. The vibration can be felt in the gas pedal, steering wheel, seat, and it can be heard. It sounds a lot like a phasing boom. The dealer that replaced the driveshaft has said they now believe its my "CHEAP hancook tires" but I can duplicate the vibration with the truck supported on jack stands under the axle housing (not changing the pinion angle) with the wheels removed. Now with the wheels removed the vibration is not as bad but its still the same vibration I'm experiencing. One dealer told me I have a bent axle but I don't have any wobble side to side with the wheel on. the driver side wheel does look like it has a highspot with the wheel installed (you can swap wheels with the same results). the tech that replaced the driveshaft said he checked the axles and the checked out okay... Now I have yet to get a good dry warm day to throw a dial indicator on it myself to check but I wanted to check with yall and see what you think. the next nice day I get I plan on pulling the diff cover and taking a look inside. but any help would be much appreciated. I took it in to see about trading back into a Toyota and they didn't want to give me hardly anything for it and the new TRD Tacoma I drove just seemed so cheap for the $36,xxx they wanted for it. My Silverado has a lot more features plus im a fan of the LS engines so I plan on trying to resolve this issue before I try to trade it again. vibration is felt from 20-70+mph the worst is 55-65mph. running boards have been removed, new trans mount, new complete driveshaft. tires have been rotated and the vibration is still coming from the rear center of the truck. Vibrates in V4 & V8, and in neutral. I also have a case opened with GM on this issue since October 2018 so it's well documented. 2014 Silverado LT 5.3L 6l80e 2WD crew cab. (built in the mexico plant) 87,XXX MILES. Please keep the stupid comments to yourself. I just want to get this issue resolved so I can enjoy this truck.
  7. Alright- high Miller here- 445 KM, (276000 miles) tranny rebuilt at 350. in the past month, I have noticed a rattle. Not steady, inconsistent, It is not- piston slap- present when engine is warm lifter- inconsistent lifter gone- zero power loss, truck runs great, drives great, no loss uphill. highly doubtful cat converter. Possibly AC clutch? Bearing in that area? It sounds like it’s coming from that area. Truck straight on, bottom left. I cant test because of GMs safety feature with the outside temp gauge on AC and stopping it (3 blinks) (Canadian winter) Has had anyone just cut this belt and said eff the AC? I have zero use for AC, summer I roll the windows down, I think it’s a waste of gas to be honest. Been through pretty much everything else. More of a nuisance then an issue. Truck drives great, no lights, nothing. Mileage dropped a bit, but could be Canadian winter. Im tempted to cut the belt, as it appears it’s got its own belt and from diagrams that’s what I can see. Thoughts? Tia
  8. Okay folks... what is the consensus numbers on what a good set of 1 3/4” primary long tubes (Kooks, ARH, etc) will get you on an basically (maybe a CAI and a cat back) stock L83? Info/numbers on catted vs non-catted would be cool too. So would before and after tuning... even though it’s pretty much a given that you need a tune if you do long tubes. Thanks y’all!
  9. Surely someone must make some nicer looking/dressed up coil cover/valve covers for the new style engine by now? Can't find a thing online. Would be nice to spruce things up under the hood a bit with some chrome or carbon fiber or just something different. Anyone spot anything anyplace???
  10. Its been awhile since I've put up an update post on what I have done to my truck in the past few months. So here is the list.... -RC 2 inch leveling kit -Carven performance exhaust ( Competition muffler ) -Aftermarket taillights ( returning soon as they already have issues ) -future planned taillights are morimoto's -Black bowtie swap front and rear -I may get aftermarket headlights in the future if prices go down. -Custom HD towing mirrors ( The front LED turn signals are sequential ) -20 inch light bar mounted onto a license plate bracket mount -20x10 -25 offset dropstar 655bm -33x12.5 toyo open country RT's -Front end air dam removal with trimming for tires -LED turn signal bulbs All these mods were done myself except for the tow mirrors since i had them done at my Chevy dealer so that i made sure everything worked properly and was warrantied for the wiring harness. Please give me your thoughts and opinions on my build and give me any pointers o what i should do next to the truck. I'm thinking about getting a cold air inductions CAI next.
  11. To preface this thread; I am not looking to go to Bonneville or the Autobahn. Now that that's out of the way... 98-99 MPH when it's still pulling hard, and is on T Speed Rated tires, is a bit of a let down. I don't go that fast all the time, but I have found myself hitting the nanny state leash a time or two on the toll roads not far from where I am. In the immediate future is a CAI cold air that I will need a DiabLew Tune update to get the best results from. My thinking is that when he does the update, he also moves the limiter. Here is my question: What is the max safe top speed we can set it to? I say max safe from the stand point of not exceeding the drive shaft's max rotational speed, what Complete Street Performance called "Critical Speed". The truck in question is a 2018 Silverado 1500 LT TX Edition, Crew Cab, Short Box, 2WD, 5.3L, 6L80, 3.42 G80 rear diff, one piece driveshaft, on a 265/65R-18 112T Tire. If going off the speed rating of the tires, one would say 118. The speed rating chart is common knowledge, but not the end all answer. Again, what I'm not sure about is the max speed of the truck vs rotation speed of the drive shaft with my combination of trans, rear diff, and tire size. I'm thinking... 110-115. Thank y'all in advance!
  12. Hey there. Getting ready to do a TSP cam swap on my 2017 5.3 Sierra and I’m wondering if the Msd intake is worth putting on at the same time? I’m looking for a list of parts needed and if anyone is seeing worth while gains from it? Currently have a K&N intake, pacesetter longtubes, true dual exhaust with an H pipe, and 4.88 gears. Thanks in advance
  13. I recently bought a used 2016 Sierra Denali 5.3L 4x4 in March with 48k miles. Truck has been great until yesterday (now 52k miles) when I ease into the gas it shudders and shakes like crazy until i punch it. The tach is bouncing up and down and it doesn't matter if it's in v8 or v4. It almost feels like it's a misfire but it's weird that it only does it when I'm easing into the throttle or going uphill. The truck has the 8 speed transmission. Has anyone else ran into something like this and would the manufacturer warranty cover the fix for this?
  14. I don't know much about this system, how it operates, the stress that is placed on the lifters during cylinder deactivation. How common is this failure? Been watching some YouTube videos on the repair and it's very labor intensive...heads have to come off, etc. I see that you can buy the entire kit (lifters, gaskets) for around $500. Have a friend that told me...just change your oil, you'll be fine. The number one cause of this failure is neglected maintenance. That true? Or is it an inherited problem with the design of the system? The system came out in 2007, there must be some improvements made to it since then, no? I must say that the AFM is allowing me to get some excellent fuel economy out of a full size truck. So is this a common problem, or are there people with 200,000 on these trucks that never had an issue with it?
  15. I currently have a mbrp exhaust and a k&n cold air installed just wondering what peoples opinion on throttle body spacers are and what other performance parts people recommend thanks. 0
  16. Looking at buying a 2012 Ltz 4x4 with 125,000 miles on it for 13k. yay or nay? Looks to be well maintained, seems solid on the test drive.
  17. RX Speedworks Catch Can

    I have an RX Speedworks catch can that i had installed on my 2016 Sierra. It attaches using the bolt for the brake fluid. Has the clean side separator that I used as well but not included in the pics but can provide more pics upon request. Will work on other vehicles. My price is obo shipped. TIA. https://www.rxspeedworks.com/product/gmc-sierra-oil-catch-can/
  18. Just bought an Edelbrock supercharger for my 2014 5.3 with out the Edelbrock tuner. Got an unreal deal of 4500 for it!!! Couldn't pass it up!! I search and couldn't find much information on getting a reputable tune other than black bear. Just wondering if anyone has a reputable shop in South Florida or a shop that uses HPtuners that would be good over email.
  19. I have a 2004 yukon with a slight oil leak. Not sure where it’s coming from bu found a small hairline crack in oil pan. What’s the best way to remedy this? Weld it, epoxy it, or replace it? Is it even an issue if it’s a small leak or can it catastrophically fail one day?
  20. Can you guys offer any suggestions or tips before I go to stealership? '16 Sierra Denali, 40,100 miles. I bought it 3 weeks ago with 39,800. Randomly displays 'service theft deterrent system' and I cant start. Dash lights up etc, but cant start. Have had to use oem remote-start as a work-around, but that isnt working now either. The engine will start but as soon as i put the key in, turn to 'on', and put in gear, engine kills. Battery is original, but good. Reading 12.6v engine off, 14.1v running, and load test is good. It seems to happen more when stoping/starting over short periods, like starting 1st in morning fine, go to get gas, turn off 5 min, wont start. Get it startedz drive and stop at ATM. Turn it off 2 minz wont start. If it matters my Infotainment outside temp is never correct either - and i mean off by a lot. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks guys! PS - did new sierras come with 2 keys AND fobs? Dealer gave me 1 key and fob, and 2nd key by itself. Said GMC only gave 1 fob (and 2 keys) to new purchases.
  21. Drl disable 2015 silverado

    I have a 2015 silverado from Canada I bought headlight covers and tail light covers for the truck not realizing that the lights stay on all the time while in drive is there a way to disable the drls while in gear.. doesn't look very good with lights on under the covers.. no drl relay that I could find
  22. GM/Chevrolets claimed tow rating doesn't add up when crunching the numbers between the 4.3 V6 3.42 model vs the 5.3 V8 3.08 model (2014-2018). Look at the last two columns in the below chart for torque (ft./lbs.) coming out the differential towards the wheels. (These numbers do NOT account for drive train loss, at the wheel ratio changes due to various tire sizes, and the engine torque was taken as published (383 for 5.3 and 303 for 4.3 V6). The ROWS are gears 1 (top) through 6 (bottom). The formula used was: Step 1) Transmission gear ratio multiplied by Rear end gear ratio = Final Drive Ratio. Step 2) Final Drive Ratio multiplied by engine torque = TORQUE coming out of the differential to the wheels. Torque coming out of the differential and to the wheels what gives a vehicle its POWER to pull and move weight. The 5.3 with 3.08 BEATS (MORE POWER) the 4.3 with 3.42 in EVERY GEAR I understand there is more to ratings for tow capacity than just pulling power, however the 5.3 and 4.3 share the same frame, suspension, 6 speed transmission, etc. which means the only variable between the two models is the engine. Since the 5.3 with the 3.08 rear end CLEARLY has MORE torque going to the wheels than the 4.3 with the 3.42 rear end how does Chevy/GMC claim that the V6 model can tow more? The only thing I can think of is MAYBE the 4.3 runs cooler than the 5.3 so the engine is capable of sustaining high RPMs for a longer period of time...
  23. So I have been looking around for a level kit I think I want to go with a 2inch level on the front. But I'm not too sure on what one to get? I have seen the rough country one for a reasonable price. I was also looking at motofab. Is there any others that I should consider? Also with a level kit void a factory warranty? Post some photos of your level lift! Or give me some input on things to be aware about.
  24. Hi I'm new here and really didn't find an answer to my question...so I just did an oil change on my 14 Sierra with the 5.3 and added the correct 8.5qts of oil. As I was doing the oil change the level was perfect...but I checked it again the next morning just to be safe and no matter what I did the oil level read pretty high as in where the dipstick starts to twist. I was on level ground and when I did the oil change I ran the engine for 30 seconds to fill the filter and it looked great until I checked it again. Is this something to worry about???
  25. Hi Guys I'm new to the site and new to GM trucks as well, my previous truck was a 2013 F-150 XLT with the 3.5 Ecoboost and 3.55 gears it was rated to tow 9,800lbs. I Just purchased a new 2015 Sierra SLT 4x4 with the 5.3 and 3.42 gears rated to tow 9,100lbs. Both of those numbers are significantly higher then I will be typically pulling and I am sure the Sierra is up to the task as the main things I towed with my F-150 was a 17ft fiberglass boat in the summer (approx 2500lbs dry) and an 18ft deck-over trailer with 4 snowmobiles in the winter (approx 4,800lbs) in the winter. I have not had a chance to tow with my new Sierra yet as I am still breaking it in but I thought I would try and start an thread before I do looking to you guys for some insight and opinions and I will definitely let you know my experience on the towing differences between the two trucks once I have a chance to compare. What I noticed with my F-150 was its very strong torque curve which allowed it to pull my trailers very easily, the transmission in tow/haul was also very good about picking a gear on the highway (usually 5th) and being able to hold it without hunting or lugging the engine. The downside as I am sure many have heard/experienced is the ecoboost is horribly inefficient when towing especially in the cold weather, for example when towing my sleds in the winter it typically returned anywhere from 8-10 US MPG (29-23 L/100 KM). My main concerns regarding the Sierra is that I notice GM has obviously tuned the transmission for maximum fuel economy as it is always looking to shift to 6th asap! I was wondering if when towing do you guys find putting it in tow/haul is enough to keep it from lugging the engine or gear hunting or do you tow using the manual mode? Also anyone towing similar weight trailers who might be able to advise on what sort of fuel mileage I might be able to expect would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
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