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Found 171 results

  1. So I have a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 5.3 at 35k miles and I got a flashing CEL for about 30 seconds a few weeks ago on the highway and took it it to auto parts store but it had no codes present. About a week and a half ago the CEL came on constant and it came up with the P50D Rough Idle and so I got oil changed and ran some fuel system cleaner through and after a couple days the light started flashing and ran rough for a few min, I parked it and started it 10 min later and it was a solid CEL again but I was able to pull a P300 General misfire code. Today it did the same thing but ran worse than ever and I thought it was going to die on me, shut it down for 10 min and it ran ok. Before I start throwing money at this where should I start, spark plugs, coil packs, injectors? I'm at a loss with only 35k and just passed the 3yr warranty. Thanks for any advice.
  2. I have a 2019 Silverado LD with 21k miles on it. I noticed that if I'm in manual mode, I get a hard downshift from 3-2. No other gears. It does it off and on. What could it be?
  3. Hello im new to this forum. I have been searching for silimar sounds my truck is making on here but i can't seem to find one. So my truck is a 2020 silverado rst 5.3 8 speed crewcab 4x4 and has 1,600 miles. It makes this clicking sound similar to a clock. I went underneath the truck to listen for the sound and it appears to be coming from transmission area. Any thoughts of what the sound is? Ill attach a sound clip. Its a cold start but it also does it when its warmed up. 20201103_053649_2_1.mp4
  4. I have an 06 Silverado with 215k miles. Has the L33 Aluminum Block 5.3 in it. It runs great, has good power, but has an odd ticking/knocking noise. It doesn’t make the noise until it’s been running for about a minute so I don’t think it’s exhaust. I also do not think it’s a lifter because it sounds more lower end towards the rear of the engine. Has anyone had any experience with these L33s knocking? It has been making this noise for a while now and it’s very annoying/embarrassing. I’m not sure if oil has anything to do with it but I use penzoil 5w30 full syn. Let me know if you have any ideas, thanks.
  5. Hello, 2012 Silverado 4X4 Ext Cab LC9 with 101k miles. As the title states, I have a unique situation. The cab and bed are entirely off of my truck (T-bone damage), thus I thought this would be a good time to do a DOD delete as well as any other recommended upgrades or repairs WHILE THE CAB AND BED ARE OFF! I haven't looked at too many kits yet (Scoggin Dickeys, Texas Speed, WS6Store, etc) and still figuring what I need/don't need. Definitely would like to put in a mild performance cam if it isn't too much extra. I'm new to these trucks, so I don't know all the weak spots other than the DOD system. Basically, I'm interested in bulletproofing the system much like 6.0 powerstroke owners had to do. I just heard about the oil pickup o-ring. WTH! Wow GM.... Worth it to do this at the same time as the DOD probably. Something about a AFM plate in the oil pan? But I'm open to your input. What else? something about timing chain guides??? I vaguely remember something about a fuel system issue being pretty common as well? Sorry if I am all over the place. SO many questions right now. I just got the cab off yesterday and pretty much planning on ordering what I need by the end of this week Be doing all the work myself Thanks!
  6. Greetings. New guy here, so please freely call me out an any forum missteps. I started out with a base model 2018 GMC Sierra 4wd, regular cab, standard bed. It has a snow plow package and 3.42 gears. Onyx Black. No frills. I'll try and remember the order in which I did everything. All work do date has been done in my driveway, which I'm reasonably proud of because I work a job where I mostly send emails and sit in meetings. -- Debadging happened the first day of ownership... just my thing, costs nothing. -- Blacked out my front badge with with plasti dip -- Removed the air dam -- Cover King carpeted dash mat added, in the color of 'wine'. -- Cover King saddle blanket seat covers added in wine/whiteish.... returned after about a month because they were coming apart at the seams in a quite literal sense. Back to my grey cloth seats. -- Added a Rough Country 2 inch level (those cheap spacer things that are shaped like 'C' -- Brow tint on the windshield and multiple layers of Collinite way done by Motoring Images in Lee NH (ok, this wasn't in my driveway) -- Airaid modular intake and filter added. Sounds great, I'm a fan. -- Borla ATAK cat back system with polished tips. Sounds wonderful. -- Diablo Intune3 handheld tuner, custom (non dyno, remote) tuned further for 91+ and some extra oomph by Lew. -- Mudflaps installed and ultimately removed because they were the no drill kind and drilling would have helped from losing one in a carwash or who knows where, so those are gone.
  7. I have a 5.3 with the 6L80 in it and was hoping to swap over to a 6.2 but i can’t find much online about what i will need to replace, anything would help. I know i’ll need a new ECM and possibly a new flex plate but besides that i’m not sure. Thanks in advance!
  8. I don't know much about this system, how it operates, the stress that is placed on the lifters during cylinder deactivation. How common is this failure? Been watching some YouTube videos on the repair and it's very labor intensive...heads have to come off, etc. I see that you can buy the entire kit (lifters, gaskets) for around $500. Have a friend that told me...just change your oil, you'll be fine. The number one cause of this failure is neglected maintenance. That true? Or is it an inherited problem with the design of the system? The system came out in 2007, there must be some improvements made to it since then, no? I must say that the AFM is allowing me to get some excellent fuel economy out of a full size truck. So is this a common problem, or are there people with 200,000 on these trucks that never had an issue with it?
  9. I have read hundreds of AFM collapsed lifter threads but have not been able to find someone with my same issue where it has been solved. Looking for your expertise in the cause, not looking for advise to turn AFM off as that is the plan but I want to properly fix the issue first. I have a 14 Silverado with a 5.3 with 50k miles and the issue I’m having is there is a pecking/knocking/rattle only when the truck is under light load while it is in V4 mode. Has anyone else experienced this where the noise occurs only while in V4 and while slightly accelerating? The are no check engine lights, no noises at idle, no noise while running on 8 cylinders, no smoke, no oil usage, and it doesn’t appear to have lost any power. The two possible problems I see are either: 1. One of the AFM lifters have failed in a way where it is not allowing the cylinder to deactivate which means the intake or exhaust valve will function like normal instead of closing during V4 mode. If this is the case is there any way to confirm this without a diagnostic scanner to put the truck in V4 at idle or to deactivate each cylinder? Is there any risk of further failure by not fixing this if I turn off AFM as it seems the “tabs” are just not disengaging within the lifter? 2. There is an issue somewhere within the VLOM portion with an actuator, oil port, something electronic that is preventing enough oil pressure to deactivate the lifter. If AFM is deactivated is there any risk with whatever is not working properly within this system? Basically, I am fine with turning AFM off as where I drive there is likely minimal impact but I don’t want to turn it off just to cover up a problem that will resurface in the near future as I don’t intend on getting rid of the truck any time soon.
  10. Which engine is better? I assume the 6.2 has more power and the 5.3 has better mpg, but how much of a difference is it?
  11. To preface this thread; I am not looking to go to Bonneville or the Autobahn. Now that that's out of the way... 98-99 MPH when it's still pulling hard, and is on T Speed Rated tires, is a bit of a let down. I don't go that fast all the time, but I have found myself hitting the nanny state leash a time or two on the toll roads not far from where I am. In the immediate future is a CAI cold air that I will need a DiabLew Tune update to get the best results from. My thinking is that when he does the update, he also moves the limiter. Here is my question: What is the max safe top speed we can set it to? I say max safe from the stand point of not exceeding the drive shaft's max rotational speed, what Complete Street Performance called "Critical Speed". The truck in question is a 2018 Silverado 1500 LT TX Edition, Crew Cab, Short Box, 2WD, 5.3L, 6L80, 3.42 G80 rear diff, one piece driveshaft, on a 265/65R-18 112T Tire. If going off the speed rating of the tires, one would say 118. The speed rating chart is common knowledge, but not the end all answer. Again, what I'm not sure about is the max speed of the truck vs rotation speed of the drive shaft with my combination of trans, rear diff, and tire size. I'm thinking... 110-115. Thank y'all in advance!
  12. I’m planning on upgrading my gear ratio from 3.42 to 4.10 on my 2019 custom trail boss. I want to put a 4-6 lift on my truck from BDS with fox shock coilovers With 35 inch tires maybe 37’s but before that I want to regear my truck so that I don’t lose any power. Do y’all think 4.10 gears are good enough for should I go for like 4.55’s? If anyone has re geared there 2019’s and up please let me know the prices and gear shifting experiences.
  13. So just this past friday one of the heater hoses blew on the way to work. The next day the thermostat and the hose were replaced, with no leaks of any kind thereafter. Fast forward to Monday afternoon, after nearly 50 miles in over 100 degree weather the truck is fine, but on the way home I got off the highway and was at a red light. That's when the truck began to overheat again, going all the way past the 3/4 mark. I made it to a gas station and it cooled off slightly as I pumped gas, but was barely able to get home. So later that night the fan clutch was replaced because it seemed like it wasn't cooling at slow speeds or during idle. Another fast forward to today, Tuesday, when it ran another seemingly perfect day in highway, city streets, and some more highway, I was pretty upbeat! And then.... nearly the same thing happened! I was pretty close to home when the temperature needled starting rising little by little. I pulled of the highway and began to take the streets because I didn't want to be stuck in rush hour traffic with an overheating engine. So over roughly 7 miles the needle only crept to the 3/4 mark but stayed there consistently, so I thought that was a little odd. Having said all of that, what is your guy's opinion about this problem? I honestly don't know where to go from here. The water pump is about two years old, there aren't any leaks and the engine is completely fine as there aren't any signs of internal problems or water in the oil. When she's not hot she runs perfectly so I'm grateful for that. I hope you guys with more experience can help me out asap! I will really appreciate it. Javier
  14. Cutout system installed on my Trail Boss
  15. Ok so long story short I found a big oil puddle in my driveway after parking my 14 Sierra with the 5.3. The dealer I took it to said the rear main seal blew and the cause was the combination of cold temperatures and the oil catch can that I put on the vehicle. I installed the elite engineering e2 can with one way check valve. Has anyone else had this issue? They're telling me since I put that system on it voids the warranty and I have to pay for the rear main needless to say I'm pretty pissed
  16. Took my 2017 Chevy Silverado z71 to the dealer today . Engine was ticking on top end sounded like a lifter tick and slight deeper knock in bottom end . oil presure was all over the place would go from 65 psi to 25 psi at same rpm. I have 44,000 miles. Has anyone else had this issue? With the strike in play who know how long I will be without my truck.
  17. I recently bought a used 2016 Sierra Denali 5.3L 4x4 in March with 48k miles. Truck has been great until yesterday (now 52k miles) when I ease into the gas it shudders and shakes like crazy until i punch it. The tach is bouncing up and down and it doesn't matter if it's in v8 or v4. It almost feels like it's a misfire but it's weird that it only does it when I'm easing into the throttle or going uphill. The truck has the 8 speed transmission. Has anyone else ran into something like this and would the manufacturer warranty cover the fix for this?
  18. I have a 2008 Silverado 1500 LT with the 5.3 vortec and it needs a new engine. Is it possible to put a 2003 5.3 Vortec engine in this truck or not?
  19. I apologize for the novel, but here we go! Alright, so 2011 Tahoe 5.3 LMG Flex vin 0, 158k miles, never given me any issues ever before. Drove it up on ramps last night to get under it to just check everything before I tow a trailer over the weekend. All fine and dandy. Go to start it to back off of the ramps-dash and running lighter all turn on. Turn the key to ignition and....nothing. If I try to remote start it, I just get an electronic noise. Took the starter off last night and tested it multiple times at my work (advance auto) and my starter was super dead. Sweet, found my issue, right? Got a new starter. Put it on. Still no crank. No click. No nothing except everything else on the truck acts like it normally would when you turn the key. I checked connection between the positive terminal on battery and the starter with a multimeter -just fine. My battery is perfectly fine. Tested it multiple times now. Have a charger. Made sure it's fully charged. Double and triple checked. Looked at all the applicable fuses I can think ofand swapped the starter relay with the ac relay (they are identical) and it changed nothing. This then led me to believe maybe the ignition switch in the steering column was bad. Put a new one in today. Same exact issue. It changed absolutely nothing. Everything turns on but no crank and no relay sounds or anything. Almost thinking that something isn't sending the signal to the little wire connector that is on the starter selenoid (attached to the starter). But I feel like I've checked everything that could block that. I'm running out of ideas and I NEED (super awesome timing!) this truck to move from Lincoln to Omaha starting tomorrow ? ugh Was wondering if putting 12v constant to that little plug wire on the starter solenoid may skip whatever is not sending the signal, which I guess would just confirm that there's no signal. I dunno. 8+hours into this so far. First time this truck has ever given me issues in 158k miles. Also, no, it will not start in neutral. Any tips would be awesome!
  20. I have a grant steering wheel assembly, but I need more insight on how to install. Watched a bunch of videos but couldn't find a good one for what I doing.
  21. Hey All, I've had a lot of folks ask me about installing my new driveshaft. I will link the thread for the high HP driveshaft. Here is how to remove and install a driveshaft for GM 1500 Trucks. Hope this helps. 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands and block the front wheels. Or use a lift. 2. Place the transmission in Neutral with the parking break OFF. 3. Important** Make a reference mark on the driveshaft and the Pinion flange (if keeping original driveshaft) in line with each other. 4. Remove the rear universal joint bolts and retainers. Rotate the shaft in the most convenient way as to not allow the shaft to spin. Try inserting a screwdriver in the shaft yoke to keep the shaft steady. 5.For Two piece shafts remove the fasteners from the center support bearing. 6. On ALL models, tape the bearing caps to the universal join to prevent the caps from coming off during removal 7. Lower the rear of the shaft and slide the front of the shaft out of the transmission or transfer case. 8. cover the transfer case or transmission with plastic wrap or plastic bag to decrease fluid loss or contamination. DONE!! Installation 1. Assuming the oil seal is in good shape slide the front of the driveshaft into the transmission or transfer case. 1.2. On models with two piece shafts raise the center support bearing into position, install the fasteners and torque to 30 FT-Lbs 2. Raise the rear of the drive shaft into position (make sure to align your marks if reusing your current shaft), install the fasteners and tighten to 18 ft-lbs 3. Install the clamps and bolts. Tighten all bolts to 18 ft-lbs. **FYI The yoke bolts are 118 ft-lbs. Here is a video from youtube that may help too. Here is my post about an upgraded driveshaft, 1,200 Hp and 8,300 torque.
  22. Hey guys just wanted to share tis bit of info that I was able to find. It was difficult locating a driveshaft for a 14+ GM 1500 so I hope this helps. After spending tons of time trying to find a less complicated way to upgrade my DS I visited alldrivelines.com (referral from a member) and saw the 800hp rated 2 piece shaft. I called to verify compatibility and was let down by the rep. It is not user friendly for the 4x4's. However, after asking me some great questions Shelby @ Alldrivelines (661) 633-2303 simply said why don't you get our 1,200hp rated driveshaft for the 14+ GM 1500.. I said ..."wait huh". Tell me more. This is currently not listed on the website. It is a 5" 6061 Aluminum shaft with a .125 wall thickness. It is rated for over 1,200 HP and 7,300 ft tq. She can get the correct size for other models too (bespoke). I'm running the following with a Stock Trans/Transfer Case and ride hight. Make: GMC Model: Sierra 1500 Denali Drive: AWD/4WD Loc: Rear Bed: 5'9" Chassis: 143.5"WB Doors: 4 Door After some negotiating it ended up being $580 SHIPPED from CA to MA!!!. (She also suggested the upgraded billet slip yoke rated 1200hp it was an extra $100 so I'm actually $680.00 shipped)** Just a heads up folks. If you want a Driveshaft that can handle high speeds, high HP and TQ this is the place to go. Call Alldriveline (661) 633-2303 and ask for Shelby. Mention my last name Melaas and they'll cut you the same deal. A 1,200 hp rated shaft with the billet yolk for $680 shipped. I don't get anything for it I just asked if I could refer my friends here for the same deal and she said sure. Very nice Lady. Lastly it is a 2-3 day processing and shipping for me (ca - ma) is about 3-4 days. I should have it next Thursday! I will send pics. PM if you have any questions.
  23. Hey everyone, I need some advice! I've spent countless hours using the search function, sending PM's to members (and you guys don't need to respond again if you don't want to), and listening to YouTube videos (which suck because you can't hear what they sound like from inside the cab going down the road)...but I still can't make up my mind! I want to do a muffler swap on my truck (details in signature). I don't want to spend the money on a full cat-back system...I'm just going to swap the muffler and cut the factory tail pipe so it dumps over the rear axle. I want the sound to be deep and aggressive under acceleration....but close to stock (no drone) while cruising....and without any goofy stuff going on when it switches to V4 mode. My budget is around $200. I've narrowed my choices down to 5 different mufflers....and will explain my concerns & reasons for hesitation with each one. In no particular order: Magnaflow 22" 12589 - I'm concerned about it being too quiet (unless I'm at WOT) for people to even notice, and also worried about drone while cruising (I've heard too many people that complained about magnaflows having drone) Borla Sport 19131347 - I'm concerned about it being too loud in the cab while cruising and switching V8/V4 (or just too loud in the cab in general) Borla Touring 19131346 - Basically just concerned that it's going to be too tame, and I won't hardly be able to tell any difference from stock. Not worried about the drone with this one though. Dynomax VT 17949 - I'm worried about the spring/valve assembly breaking or rattling...and having to get it fixed or replaced after a short period of time. I like the concept, but the moving parts make me nervous. Dynomax Ultra Flo 20" 17233 - Can't find a single sound clip of this muffler on a 5.3; worried about drone and V8/V4 noise I would appreciate any advice (or sound clips) you all can provide. I'm a nervous wreck over this situation, and I can only afford to do this once! Also, please skip the comments about Corsa (I know they're awesome, but I refuse to spend that much money on a muffler) and straight pipes (been there, done that...over it). Thanks in advance everyone!
  24. Here's my new to me CPO 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 5.3/8spd LTZ w/ LTZ Plus Package and Z71 Package. Silver Ice on Jet Black Here are pics the day I picked it up from Lone Star Chevrolet in Houston TX on Feb 28. Mods are going to be the usual and will be listed below Thanks for looking!
  25. So I have recently purchased a Range AFM disabler for my 2017 Silverado 1500 E-assist because of the constant stopping and starting at stop lights, exhaust drone from V4, weird shifting from V4 to V8 and my transmission liking to jerk/shifting hard every so often. After installing the Range device, it has solved my transmission issues, disabled stopping and starting at stop lights, and has been keeping it in V8 mode 24/7! The only thing I have noticed is that when I am decelerating from a speed of around 50 MPH or more, the engine will have a fast repetitive backfiring popping sound until i either get back on the gas pedal or have reached a speed of 35 MPH. It seems to happen when i am decelerating slowly and not fast, starts to backfire when it starts to downshift at around 900-1100 RPMs I have a flowmaster Super40 cat-back dual 2.5 inch exhaust with the third "cat" still on. It used to not backfire when the AFM was active BUT when decelerating, it would switch back into V4 mode. is there a way to fix this? Is there too much freeflowing exhaust? Can this backfiring through the exhaust cause any damage if left unfixed? Thanks, -Hunter
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