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Found 82 results

  1. Hello all! It was suggested I start a build thread so here I am starting one! My truck is a 2016 Silverado Regular Cab with the 5.3L v8 and 6 speed automatic. It has the IOB 7" infotainment center with Apple Play/Android Auto, trailer hitch incorporated into the rear bumper, cruise control, 40/20/40 seats etc and although I originally thought it had 3:42 gears based on the standard items listed on the sticker I somehow missed that my option column shows that it actually has the 3:08 gears. The LT interior was a little too busy looking for me and had a bunch of stuff I didn't really need and about the only option the LS didn't have that I wished for is the steering wheel audio/phone controls but I think I can get by without those especially after finding out from the dealer the cost as well as what it would take to install. I had modifications in mind before even getting the truck such as lowering, tire/wheel upgrade, increasing performance/handling, upgrading to a competition level audio system (my hobby and side business) and of course plans to personalize it to my tastes. Here's what I have done so far and the more I read this forum the more I add to my list so future plans are below! Day 1 Before installing 2" drop shackles and removing spacer block (shows the chrome door handles I installed but did not like so they got changed quickly) After shackles installed/spacer block removed and color matched handles as well as mirror caps installed The gold Bowtie looked out of place to me so I color matched the front one using the rattle can custom mix kit you can get on eBay or Amazon along with Duplicolor primer/adhesion promoter I didn't like the look of the rear Bowtie at all even after color matching so I removed it and I also added the LS emblem to balance out the rear somewhat since now only the LT and LTZ trucks get those emblems for some reason. (I also plan to color match the tailgate handle) More coming in a few minutes!
  2. I have a 2014 Silverado LTZ (very high milage - 219,000) Runs great and still has some power left under the hood. For the most part, it is in great shape. It have a strange noise when acceleration or getting up to about 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It only does it under load, so it is hard to find where the noise is coming from. In the attached video, it takes place at 12-18s and then again at 40-46s. It is hard to hear because of the wind noise, but I can't figure out how to isolate the noise any better. If anyone has any ideas, I would sure appreciate the input. The water pump was just replaced, and so was the alternator, along with the tensioner pulley. I admit my limited knowledge under the hood, but I am willing to learn and fix it, if I can. https://youtu.be/PctCm6Ai09Y
  3. I have a 2015 Silverado with the 5.3L that just had the number 7 lifter collapse.... Just normal acceleration and lost power. Sounds like this is a common issue with the AFM engines... I took it in to the Chevy dealer and they want way too much to replace the lifter and check the cam for wear. Of course, my warranty was done 20k ago at 160k so I'm wondering what are my best options. Does it make sense to repair and hope nothing else goes wrong or spend the money on a new or salvage engine with low km and pay to put that in?? I'd like to keep the truck for a long time if possible. What would you do in this situation?
  4. So I have recently purchased a Range AFM disabler for my 2017 Silverado 1500 E-assist because of the constant stopping and starting at stop lights, exhaust drone from V4, weird shifting from V4 to V8 and my transmission liking to jerk/shifting hard every so often. After installing the Range device, it has solved my transmission issues, disabled stopping and starting at stop lights, and has been keeping it in V8 mode 24/7! The only thing I have noticed is that when I am decelerating from a speed of around 50 MPH or more, the engine will have a fast repetitive backfiring popping sound until i either get back on the gas pedal or have reached a speed of 35 MPH. It seems to happen when i am decelerating slowly and not fast, starts to backfire when it starts to downshift at around 900-1100 RPMs I have a flowmaster Super40 cat-back dual 2.5 inch exhaust with the third "cat" still on. It used to not backfire when the AFM was active BUT when decelerating, it would switch back into V4 mode. is there a way to fix this? Is there too much freeflowing exhaust? Can this backfiring through the exhaust cause any damage if left unfixed? Thanks, -Hunter
  5. Up for sale is my DiabloSport inTune i2 I2030. This tuner will come with 2 unlocked GM licenses for you to use. Works perfectly fine and is completely up to date. With 2 licenses, you can tune your truck and just sell it without losing a dime. Picked up a 2019 and don't have a use for this anymore. Please don't hit me with lowball offers. Each additional GM license was $100 alone. If you only need a single license then use it and sell it to a buddy, or charge him for a tune. Price is $220 shipped to contiguous US.
  6. Hey Forum, I have been looking online at the different exhaust systems out there available for the 2014 5.3L, and they are more expensive than I though. For example, Flowmaster's Outlaw system is $850 just for the parts. So, I called a custom truck shop near town and they stated they would be able to cut off the muffler and take out the remaining pipe after the muffler. After the third cat, they would install a Y-pipe and run the exhaust out of the rear corners with 4" tips for $325 installed. I looked up several videos on YouTube where others have done this and the setup sounds good to me. My concern is, after removing all the restrictions after the third cat, will there be a decrease in MPG or HP due to the lack of back-pressure? Or, an increase? I do not understand the back-pressure concept so I am out of my league when it comes to exhaust knowledge.
  7. I have a 2003 silverado with the 4.8l. Im needing a new motor figured a 5.3 would be easier to find and a better motor. But my question is what other year blocks can i use. Ive heard you can swap the 4.8 for the 5.3 with a tune. But could i fit an 04 - 06 block while keeping all accessories and fuel rails etc. I read in 04 it went to returnless fuel rails.
  8. I have a 2003 silverado with the 4.8l. Im needing a new motor figured a 5.3 would be easier to find and a better motor. But my question is what other year blocks can i use. Ive heard you can swap the 4.8 for the 5.3 with a tune. But could i fit an 04 - 06 block while keeping all accessories and fuel rails etc. I read in 04 it went to returnless fuel rails.
  9. FS: 14-16 5.3L OEM Exhaust

    Just swapped out the factory exhaust and wanted to see if there was any interest in the factory set up? Comes off a 2016 5.3l CCSB. Located in zip 20105, Northern VA. Looking for $100obo Will work on getting pictures posted shortly.
  10. 2018 Silverado Z71 5.3L with 14K miles. DIC fuel average indicates 10.3% better fuel economy then actual MPG. 28 fill-ups and reset each time. Any way to calibrate meter? 1% variance maximum variance between each of 28 fill-ups. Thanks for any assistance. Truck is 100% stock including tires.
  11. Hello, I was driving my 2000 GMC Sierra 5.3L when it died on me in the middle of the road. I tried to start it, but the engine cranks but didn't run. After I left it for 30 minutes, I started it again and when it started the engine revs all the way to redline without me touching the gas paddle. It keeps doing that every time I start the car, and there is no way to stop it. This is the things I have done since the problem started: I checked and cleaned the throttle body, and it is not stuck wide open. I checked and cleaned the IAC valve. I checked the Accelerator Cable, and it looks fine. I looked for vacuum leaks, and I couldn't find any. Here is a video of the issue: https://youtu.be/d7ILg5Tv9dg Another video( here when the revs reached 3500 it dropped to 2000 then the car died and never didn't again(until I left it for 30minutes) ): https://youtu.be/gR-O2QJaDQY
  12. New to the forum and thought I would inquire if anyone has some advice in regards to a starting problem I am having. Thank you for reading this. For starters, the SUV is a 2009 GMC Yukon XL SLT 5.3L SFI Flex Fuel (120K miles and oil change light is on, changed oil but have not reset light indicator as I have been playing with starting issue). For the last few weeks it has had a strange intermittent starting issue. When you turn the key to the acc position the battery reads correctly and matches my meter with all electronics working. However, when I would turn the key to the next position (ignition). It would just click. So I would turn it off and then retry with no luck starting. When held in full ignition position it would click and click and then start. as long as you held it in place for a good 5-10 seconds. I checked the battery again and ran tests on it. Brand new battery and no issues. I checked battery cables and grounds with no red flags. I removed the starter relay and jumped 30/87 and confirmed the starter itself has no issue. The starter kicks on and sounds good. Yesterday, I went to start it with a fully charged battery and it would only click. Doors would try and lock and unlock during the process but it would not start. I got out of the vehicle and locked the doors. use the FOB to remote start and the vehicle started with no issues. I got into the SUV and tried the key, and it started right up. Started it a number of times with the parking brake on, parking brake off with no luck in recreating the problems. However, I feel that it's only getting worse with no real answers and no way to recreate the problems or how to solve. Which is why I am here. I have googled quite a bit and read a number of posts here, but no real solution. So I am hoping someone can point me in the correct direction. I love troubleshooting but this is bit annoying. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  13. So I just got my truck GMC Sierra SLT Premium plus package with a 5.3l has been 3 months and put 8k miles on it, as you can tell I daily drive this thing. I love it, best choice i ever made after previously owning a dodge charger RT. So I've been looking up exhaust videos and I'm not sure which direction to go. If you guy have ever heard of the 2013 Yukon Denali's those stock sound deep and perfect. Thats what I'm trying to aim for, don't want any drone because its a daily truck go for a lot of long drives. What would you guys suggest? I'm leaning towards a resonator delete or just muffler delete.
  14. Surely someone must make some nicer looking/dressed up coil cover/valve covers for the new style engine by now? Can't find a thing online. Would be nice to spruce things up under the hood a bit with some chrome or carbon fiber or just something different. Anyone spot anything anyplace???
  15. My 2004 Silverado 1500 AC is not blowing out of the top vents, it only blows from bottom. I took it to get diagnosed and asked for name and part number but when I looked online I couldn't find it. He said he it was called a "control head' part number 599-009. What can I do to fix this?
  16. Hello All, I'm hoping that this is the correct place for this, as I'd consider what I'm doing a "mod". I have access to a Passthrough Pro 4 from Snap On. I'm interested in changing the remote start run time from the preset 10 minutes to 15. I'm not interested in just pressing the button again to get a total of 20 minutes by extending the preset 10 minute timer. I know that it can be done, as we have some wonderful people on here that would be happy to program the proper components and if I can't figure it out it might just come down to that. But being that I have access to the Passthrough which to my understanding lets you access factory programming as well as some custom programming I'd like to give it a shot myself first. I'm aware that I could totally screw up my truck, and well, I'm taking that risk. If anyone has done this before or has experience I would appreciate some tips, or help. Thanks in advance!
  17. Does anyone know if the AFM problems were solved? Should I be concerned with the AFM in my new 2016 5.3L Silverado? thanks!
  18. Ok first I want to apologise if this thread has been done. I just started my account today. So I bought a 2016 Silverado 1500 LT Z71 4x4 with 37k miles a few days ago. It has a 5 or 6 in RC lift and 35x12.50r20 MasterCraft courser MXT tires on it. And the Hostile predator wheels. My question is, I don't know if the truck has been geared. Tuned. Or calibrated by the previous owner. The dealership doesn't know. The truck doesn't feel "sluggish" to me personally. I drive past the digital speed trap in my town and if I'm doing 30 on my guages the reader says 31-32... On the highway at 70mph my tach reads the notch under 2k.. so 1800?.. when cruising at 30-35 my tach reads around 1100-1200. I find I get in town with A LOT of stopping and going around 13mpg and that's driving very conscious. I notice it shifts around 2500 and then lower in the higher gears like 2000 then 1500.. but seems to chug along nicely around that 1200 mark. Also. My V4 mode has never turned on once. Not sure if that's due to the current cold northern Ohio climate right now. Or if the previous owner has a tune on it and disabled that feature. I just don't want to spend the money on a tune and calibration if I don't have to. When I floor it it gets up and goes fast imo. I don't floor it often at all. It doesn't pull or tow or haul much. I'm a maintenance engineer in a flat Ohio town of 50k ppl. So I don't think I'll regear because it won't be working too hard. If I could get some folks to shed some light on my curiosity I would greatly appreciate it. If all else fails. I'm buying a good tuner I guess... Thanks guys.
  19. I recently bought a used 2016 Sierra Denali 5.3L 4x4 in March with 48k miles. Truck has been great until yesterday (now 52k miles) when I ease into the gas it shudders and shakes like crazy until i punch it. The tach is bouncing up and down and it doesn't matter if it's in v8 or v4. It almost feels like it's a misfire but it's weird that it only does it when I'm easing into the throttle or going uphill. The truck has the 8 speed transmission. Has anyone else ran into something like this and would the manufacturer warranty cover the fix for this?
  20. Hi everyone, first time posting. I've noticed since I purchased my 2015 5.3l chevy suburban that the average miles per gallon is low. I dont rev my engine, I always keep the screen up to monitor my fuel economy as i drive. I seem to always avg 15-16mpg road and 17-18hwy.... Does this seem normal??? I put in regular unleaded from krogers and costco. I have 43k miles on my vehicle Live in an area without high terrain. Regular suburbia. Something just does not seem right. Any input, help, modifications, changes required to improve? - yours truly A concerned chevy owner! Thank you!!!!
  21. Hey Forum - Do any of yall have results from running your L83 on a dyno? I plan on doing a Black Bear tune soon and was going to do before/after dyno results. Curious if anyone has results to post here that I can compare to. My truck is a 2014 LTZ Z71 with the 5.3L and 3.73 gears (9.5in rear end) from the Max Trailer Tow package. I have a K&N CAI and a custom dual exhaust where the muffler and resonator were deleted. FYI: I was reading this thread earlier. My truck is currently governed at the stock limit of 100mph. So, I assume it would still be safe to take on the dyno. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/198544-dyno-tune-driveshaft-cannot-handle-115/?page=1
  22. Hello All, This is my first time posting in this forum!! Just bought a DiabloSport Itune I3 Platinum Programmer. I am looking for some decisive direction as well as suggestions on the best parameters for tuning my truck with the I3 Platinum. Specs of Truck: 2014 Silverado Z71 LTZ 2WD Crew Cab Rough Country leveling kit installed 33" x 12.5" x 22" Nitto Terra Grappler G2 A/T tires 5.3L Ecotec flex engine K & N Cold Air Intake installed Gentle 46k miles I RUN 93 OCTANE IN THIS TRUCK Being a 2 wheel drive (It Does have the Z71 package, Rancho shocks, etc...) Obviously it raked in the front. First thing I did was put the K&N CAI on and it was like a rocket in Manual 5 gear mode, when I shifted through the gears myself. After leveling kit and 33's with aggressive tread, it was complete garbage. No power, confused shift points, almost like missing. Just a hot mess. So I bought the Intune I3 first, rather than switching to a 4.10 gear (which I may do later). Already turned off AFM and that was immediately effective. Also, 15% throttle boost. Can anyone suggest the best parameters to make this bad boy get up and GO!!?? I would like to know if there is a good idea on what ECM and TCM adjustments should be made to not only get that stock power back on 33's. But also get good fuel economy. The standard Diablo Flex, Jammer and 91 tunes don't seem to help a whole lot. Still bogs down and takes forever to get through 1st and 2nd gear. Anybody know about these tuners on a 14 Silverado with 33's?!?!?! Please help!!! Alan
  23. I bought this back in... 2013, from a dealer in McKinney, TX (Dallas) for my 2011 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab Z-82 Texas Edition. While I was finishing my 3" rear seat lift, Forward Firing Quad 8" 4.5cu ft NET dual ported box @ 31Hz, mounting my 5 Amps, sealing off every small hole in all 4 doors with 1/8" wood and Dynamat Extreme, my Focal Utopia 6W2 Components, Focal K2p PolyKevlar Comps, etc..... I ended up totalling my 2008 Sierra 5.3l the day before I received the Mechman Alternator. A lady pulled out on the 4 lane highway (speed limit 65mph) + middle turn lane, thinking the stoplight (in the middle of nowhere) was red, but it was green, so I never let off my cruise control, whixh was set to 69mph, 4mph over the speed limit. It was cliche. Everything happened in slow motion. I was just going to slam on my brakes and rear end her, probably giving her a 50/50 chance at surviving or swerve. But I saw a young, 4-8 year old girl in the passenger seat, so I swerved. Unfortunately, I hadn't cleaned off one of my wheel speed sensors, so my VDC wasn't working, so Iserved, thinking my VDC would save me from my sudden jerk of the wheel, but itdidn't, lost the rear end, swerved left initially, then right as my rear end got light, went across I front of her, swerved left and went straight across into a tree and rolled it 4 times. She stopped for a second, never got out and drove off. I had numerous people stop and help me. Most. who saw it, was angry at the car who clearly saw it, a few guys said I should have just ran her over. So anyway... my Mechman G-Series 270a Alternator with the optional $65.00 Billet Aluminum OverDrive Pulley came in the day after I totaled it. The OverDrive Pulley does two things. First, it lightens the unsprung rotational mass, therefore making it much easier to spin which equals more horsepower. 2nd and most important is that it allows much higher output and lower RPM's. I no longer need it as I never purchased another GM vehicle. It just happened that way. I ended up getting a Nissan Armada and now I'm in a 2011 Nissan Titan Pro-4X Crew Cab that I'm lifting 8" in the front & 9" in the rear. I believe I paid $600 total for it as I have the receipt. This fits all GM vehicles from 2004-2014 4.3l, 5.3l, 6.0l, 6.2l and many others such as 3.4l, 3.6l etc.. It fits vehicles with the 2-Pin Alternator Wiring Harness Plug. The alternator I was upgrading was the Optional AC Delco DR44 145a alternator, which is for sale also. Never installed, never mounted, never been inside an engine bay. I do know that the smaller pulley does not require a new belt. I paid $499 + $65 for the Billet Aluminum Overdrive Pulley + $20'ish for Shipping For Sale Price: $400 + Actual UPS Fully Insured ($500) Shipping
  24. Hey Forum, Regarding the oil drain plug on the 2014 5.3L, is anyone using aftermarket magnetic plugs? What about a magnetic oil filter sleeve, or both? Just curious because last weekend I changed the fluid in my front & rear differentials, and transfer case - all of which have magnetic plugs on them. However, none of of them have filters so, I assume adding a magnetic drain plug or filter sleeve would not make much difference since that is what the oil filter is for. Again, just curious to see everyone's thoughts!
  25. I've read enough about these valves to want to clamp it in the full open position until I can delete it entirely when I get a cat-back exhaust. But, how in the hell do you clamp off the round ones on the 2018 trucks? Here's what mine looks like, and a simple hose clamp managed to slip off after only two days.
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