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Drives

Found 10 results

  1. Hey, so I recently changed the distributor in my 99 yukon 5.7l, and I am having a super hard time getting the cam retard back to zero. It is currently off by 30°. I have tried moving it a tooth forward and a tooth backwards and both situations result in a no-start, although at 30° it starts and runs daily but I'm pretty sure my mpg has tanked. I have reinstalled this thing like 4 times now trying to see if I can get any closer and its just not happening and I'm getting pretty frustrated. Is there something I'm missing or forgetting? Could it be two or 3 teeth I need to skip? I tried googling but couldn't find the number of degrees each tooth consists of. Also I'm definitely reading the cam retard at above 1k rpm, and I've tried just spinning the distributor clockwise but it cant go any further without hitting the plenum. Everything I read says this is so easy as long as you have a scanner, but theres something I'm not doing right lol. Also is there any way to try out different teeth without having to reset tdc to get it back? Thank you for your time! Sorry if I rambled!
  2. I have had this problem for quite some time. I've been trying to narrow it down one test and one part at a time with no luck. It will occasionally drive great with no problems but other times it surges while accelerating and driving down the road. I've had the timing checked, replaced the spark plugs, replaced the wires a while back, replaced the EGR valve, and replaced the cap and rotor. The truck will idle fine except for the occasional rough idle in gear during the times the truck is running badly. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
  3. First time poster here. I'm not sure how to ask my question without going into a fair amount of detail. I have a 1994 k1500, i bought with a messed up trans and a '350 from a suburban' - note the quotation marks. I work at a dealership and our transmission guy is really good with these transmissions so I took it out and had him rebuilt it for me and he updated all the internals to the 2006+ mechanically but electronically its still a 1994. He tells me it's good for my eventual horsepower goals (600). Everything great and fine but this truck is a dog. Misfires alot has all sorts of issues with the engine, won't idle properly, Yada Yada. I decide to pull the engine. And before we take it apart we look at the casting numbers.... It's a 305... And the heads are for a 350... I was pretty unsure of what to do, however out of the blue I have an opportunity to buy whay should be a good 1998 350 vortec with ecm and full wiring harness for a great deal. There's enough there I have several options but my favorite, if it will work is use the ecm, the new engine and harness and plug it into my 1994 transmission. The question is, can I make it work. Will it run fine? What tuning might I need to do, or transmission modifications to make this work. I'm not opposed to swapping valve bodies and/or tcc solenoids to make this work, and from what I've read that's the biggest difference besides just obd1 to obd2
  4. HI Everyone I have a 1999 GM 1-ton with a rebuilt 350 in it. We put on new distributor, cap, coil, plugs and wires. The truck starts and runs good. but when under certain driving conditions (full throttle, or certain revs) the truck will backfire, hesitate etc. When a timing light is used the truck is timed right, but every so often it will throw a spark when the crank is 90 degrees past the timing marks. It is random when it happens, but it always happens in exactly the same spot. So it will fire 3 or 4 times on the mark and than once 90 degrees past and than back to the marks. My question is what could be causing this? I think 90 degrees on the crank is 45 degrees in the distributor, but how could the rotor be lined up to the next spark plug but jump back to #1? Any guidance or insight would be greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance.
  5. I have a 1995 GMC k1500 4x4 with the 5.7L TBI engine in it. I just bought the truck and as it is about 24 years old, it only needs to pass one more emisions test before It is grandfathered and therefore immune to e-checks (I live in northern Ohio) and also before I can get plates for it. The problem is, I've failed e check 3 times. A code 32 pops up every time I test it (on my own with a reader) and when I got the emissions test, high nox is the reason it fails. This would make sense, as code 32 is an egr error, and the egr being faulty would definitely trigger high nox, however: The egr valve has been replaced (yes, a negative one) The egr vacuum solenoid has been replaced Map sensor replaced Spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires. Replaced Even went as far as to replace the oxygen sensor. There doesn't seem to be any vacuum leaks and every test I've done on any part of the egr system points to it all running correctly. The kicker is: the truck runs great! No loss in power. Idles great. Super clean and well kept truck. Notes : it does have a Flowmaster super 10 dual exhaust on it, but it isn't a true dual as only one pipe comes from the catalytic into the exhaust, Then two come out. Also, high nox seems to be caused by high engine Temps, however, my engine temp on my dash shows that it never gets above about 165 or 170*. Idk if this is relevant but it seemed strange. Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm really at a loss and I'm running out of time before I need to buy another temporary tag. Thanks again - Joe
  6. DuluthGMK

    IMG 0078

    1996 GMC Sierra SLE 5.7L Sante Fe Edition
  7. DuluthGMK

    IMG 0086

  8. DuluthGMK

    IMG 0082

    L31 in 1996 GMC Sierra K1500
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