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  1. I rarely drive my 135000 mile 2004 Chevy 2500 since I retired, usually just to tow my home-built squareback trailer (2250 lbs) on camping trips. Before retirement, it was a hauler for my drag race car (for 5 years), towed my camper (for 9 years, now), and also my daily-driver (for 5 years, then part-time after I bought an HHR panel as my daily). The bed is full of camping gear and emergency-use supplies (about 800-1000 lbs), year-round, so it sits while other cars and trucks get more usage. After sitting for three months this time, I changed the oil, topped up some other fluids, and took a 500 mile trip with my trailer attached. Sometimes, if I started off too hard from a stoplight, the 4l80e felt like it was slipping, but not so much if I feathered it at the start. At first I wondered if it might've been a U-joint getting loose, but a quick test underneath proved it to be OK. Furthermore, when I pulled off into soft mud, it really slipped before it grabbed (two-wheel-drive). Though my 6.0L engine/4.10 rear combo has no trouble pulling the 2250 lb trailer, I started using tow/haul mode on the second half of the trip, whenever I was either braking in traffic in urban areas, or when taking off from a dead stop. No slippage when tow/haul is engaged. I had the solenoids upgraded about 50000 miles ago, when stop & go daily driving in rush hour traffic was causing erratic behavior, and I used Lucas Transmission Fix about 25000 miles back, when I felt a slight slamming into second gear (upon part throttle). In each case, the problems went away. I didn't check my transmission fluid before the trip, I confess, but I did check the tranny pan, rear seals, differential for signs of leaks, and found none. On the trip home, I stopped just around the corner and bought a new grease gun & cartridges (for the driveline, which may need some, though I did the front end 10k miles back), and a 24 oz bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix (if the fluid level is low, I'll just top up...if the level is OK, then I'll drain/siphon 24 oz and replace with Lucas). It worked before, so why not try it again?
  2. First time posting here, I’ve got a 2008 gmc 2500 6.0l, very very long story short I did a variable valve timing delete , mild summit cam, headers and injectors, I’ve had this thing to the tuner a dozen times and when the truck is running it runs like a bat out of hell but that’s only when it’s not going into reduce engine power randomly, I’ve replaced the wiring that goes to the throttle position sensor , the Throttle position sensor twice, gas pedal. My tuner can’t seem to help and he’s a reputable intelligent guy, if I could figure out how to control the 6l90 transmission I’d do a carb swap on this thing………… the only thing I’ve been able to figure out is when I’m driving down the road and it goes into reduce power I’ll pull over and relieve the fuel pressure by pushing the schrader valve on the fuel rail and it comes out of reduce power every time, I don’t know if that has anything to do with my problem ? Fuel pressure 60psi.
  3. I switched out the blend door actuator under the drivers side (it controls the different modes/vents). The old blend door actuator was making a clicking noise, so I decided to install a new part and when I did clicking noise was gone, but now I couldn’t switch to different vents/modes. When I first started it up the actuator went through all the different vents/mode, but then when it got to defrost it just stayed there. I thought the actuator was bad, so I got another one, but the same thing happened again. What could be the problem?
  4. I’m really debating on punching out my cat and running a straight pipe through it. My truck puffs out a cloud of white smoke when I dump it and I can tell a loss of power. Has anyone straight piped a 6.0? What are the pros and cons of doing it on a 2006 I’ve always done it to my older pickups but I’m not sure how it will affect this one
  5. I have an 02 Silverado 1500hd. It’s got the original bucket seats with the full center console. I’d like to swap it for a bench seat. Is this possible? I’ve heard of there being air ducts under the console?
  6. I need to replace the 6.0L engine in my 2000 Silverado; local salvage yards are telling me the donor engine must come from a 99-00 model vehicle. Is this correct? I have found an LQ4 6.0L from a 2003 Express van and was wondering if this would be compatible? Any help or clarification on this topic is appreciated. Thanks
  7. I've got a 2004 2500 (non-HD) crew cab and i'm doing an engine swap to a 460hp crate so i'm looking to upgrade the exhaust; most likely just a cat back maybe some shorty headers. My problem is trying to find any non-hd systems, anybody have any experience to know if they're truly different or if they're interchangeable? I'd prefer a single out if possible. here's the engine going in: https://www.high-performance-engines.com/chevy-lq4-6-0l-base-engine-460hp-crate-engine-p/hp93.htm
  8. Having fuel issues. Replaced everything internal on motor to make a stroker. The intake is original. Before fuel pump and FPR change fuel pressure was 42psi now its 49psi after fuel pump and FPR. When it runs for a min it won’t start back up for at least 30min.
  9. I bought this back in... 2013, from a dealer in McKinney, TX (Dallas) for my 2011 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab Z-82 Texas Edition. While I was finishing my 3" rear seat lift, Forward Firing Quad 8" 4.5cu ft NET dual ported box @ 31Hz, mounting my 5 Amps, sealing off every small hole in all 4 doors with 1/8" wood and Dynamat Extreme, my Focal Utopia 6W2 Components, Focal K2p PolyKevlar Comps, etc..... I ended up totalling my 2008 Sierra 5.3l the day before I received the Mechman Alternator. A lady pulled out on the 4 lane highway (speed limit 65mph) + middle turn lane, thinking the stoplight (in the middle of nowhere) was red, but it was green, so I never let off my cruise control, whixh was set to 69mph, 4mph over the speed limit. It was cliche. Everything happened in slow motion. I was just going to slam on my brakes and rear end her, probably giving her a 50/50 chance at surviving or swerve. But I saw a young, 4-8 year old girl in the passenger seat, so I swerved. Unfortunately, I hadn't cleaned off one of my wheel speed sensors, so my VDC wasn't working, so Iserved, thinking my VDC would save me from my sudden jerk of the wheel, but itdidn't, lost the rear end, swerved left initially, then right as my rear end got light, went across I front of her, swerved left and went straight across into a tree and rolled it 4 times. She stopped for a second, never got out and drove off. I had numerous people stop and help me. Most. who saw it, was angry at the car who clearly saw it, a few guys said I should have just ran her over. So anyway... my Mechman G-Series 270a Alternator with the optional $65.00 Billet Aluminum OverDrive Pulley came in the day after I totaled it. The OverDrive Pulley does two things. First, it lightens the unsprung rotational mass, therefore making it much easier to spin which equals more horsepower. 2nd and most important is that it allows much higher output and lower RPM's. I no longer need it as I never purchased another GM vehicle. It just happened that way. I ended up getting a Nissan Armada and now I'm in a 2011 Nissan Titan Pro-4X Crew Cab that I'm lifting 8" in the front & 9" in the rear. I believe I paid $600 total for it as I have the receipt. This fits all GM vehicles from 2004-2014 4.3l, 5.3l, 6.0l, 6.2l and many others such as 3.4l, 3.6l etc.. It fits vehicles with the 2-Pin Alternator Wiring Harness Plug. The alternator I was upgrading was the Optional AC Delco DR44 145a alternator, which is for sale also. Never installed, never mounted, never been inside an engine bay. I do know that the smaller pulley does not require a new belt. I paid $499 + $65 for the Billet Aluminum Overdrive Pulley + $20'ish for Shipping For Sale Price: $400 + Actual UPS Fully Insured ($500) Shipping
  10. Some of you might have seen my post asking for input before I bought my truck... Well, I bought it and I just made a short video to show you... Check it out and let me know what all info I fumbled, haha! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gY-cL1HkTtc
  11. Hey what's up everyone. Not sure if this is where to ask this or not. I'm looking to upgrade from a chevy 2002 1500 z71 to a 2500 chevy or gmc I've been looking from about 2004 and up. The biggest issue I'm trying to decide right now is gas or diesel. I am a mechanic but never worked or messed with diesels.So I tow a open car trailer and racecar in the summer during race season right now about 6,000-7,000lbs depending on which car is on it. I do tow some other stuff here and there too. But I would like the ability to tow more and to have something better for long distance trips and driving/ towing in the mountains. Now mountain trips would probably be less then a handful of times a year. Unless we really decided we liked racing at the track out there then might go a few more times. I don't plan for the truck to be a daily driver. I've put about 20,000 on my 1500 I have now in the 8 years I've had it. About 2-3 years of that was daily driving. Now whatever I do get I plan on having for a good while probably at least 10+ years I would say. And also want to be prepared if I ever upgrade to an enclosed trailer or ever got a camper etc.. What I do know right now is 6.0 is a gas hog, Duramax will give you better fuel economy and obviously better when it comes to towing. I know Lbz trucks seem to be the ones everyone says are the best to go for. But I don't know if I do enough hauling to justify the added expenses and maintenance for a Duramax. Also just trying to figure out what the best years, engine, and trans combos are to look for and any other issues either of these trucks have to be aware of. Sorry if this was too big of a post or not the right place to put this but Any advice help or opinions are greatly appreciated.
  12. Hello I am a 20 year old that has put more money then I should in my truck but its mine so I want to do something that has been done before but isn't something everyone has. I was to take out my stock 4.8L motor and 4L60E tranny and drop a moded 6.0L with a 4L80E. I am a college student so I am seeking for mods and also some of the things I will have to take into consideration. I don't have to much money to do this (like I said I'm in college) so some cost saving mods and ways to this this will be great as well. I also wonder how the rear axel will be holding up if I do this and if I will need to change the gears. This truck is special to me for the fact I bought it off my moms soon to be husband before he passed away a year ago. just trying to build something unique and that he'd be proud of.
  13. Hello, all. I have installed several sets of off road lamps (14 55w 12v lamps in total) on my H2 (Same engine set up as a 2001-2006 GM 2500/3500 Silverado/Sierra) , and notice a power draw when I have all of them on at the same time (lights dim etc). It has been recommended to me to install a more powerful alternator to compensate for the new power needs, rather than going with dual battery set up at this time. I believe the factory alternator is a 145amp Delphi. What is the power output at idle (500rpm)? I am looking at replacing it with one of two aftermarket alternators rated at 225amp and 250amp. Which would be better for my application? TIA. https://www.amazon.com/LActrical-OUTPUT-ALTERNATOR-CHEVROLET-WARRANTY/dp/B00C3RDNZC https://m.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-48237/none/images
  14. I just bought my truck "06 silverado vortec max" and I want to throw a turbo In it I don't want to take it to the track I'd just like to get the kick and punch I know the trucks capable of I myself have not done any custom upgrades myself but I'd like to do turbo kit and possibly upgrade the stock transmission to a 5speed auto trans or if it'll fit I'd like to go with the Allison trans ..any feedback? Pros /cons? Suggestions? "Hey don't do that dumbass" lol all feedback is good feedback
  15. I have a 2003 Silverado 2500HD with 88,000 miles with a 6.0L, does anyone know of cheap upgrades to the motor. Not looking to pull the motor and rebuild it just trying to make a little more power or get better fuel economy. ( I currently get 10MPG) The truck is bone stock.
  16. My question is what is the normal oil pressure reading for the new 6.0 l V8 at approx. 60 MPH in high gear about 1750 RPM? I had a 2007 5.3 and it's oil pressure ran about 55LB my new 6.0 is between 35 and 40LB. Is this normal?
  17. Hey guys. Im new to to this forum. I will try my best to describe my situation as accurately as possible. Thanks in advance for your help! About 2 months ago i was driving home from work in my 2008 chevy silverado 1500 6L v8 when i started to hear a slight knocking sound coming from the engine about once every 20 times i tried to accelerate. I didnt think much of the sound until about 3 days later when i was driving and all of a sudden it started running really rough. Rough idle, poor acceleration amd lots of vibration commimg from the engine. So within the next day i purchased a obdii scanner and scanned the flashing engine light. The p0307 code popped up. Cylinder 7 misfire. From what i had heard this problem was usully easy to fix. So i went ahead and started changing things. I changed the coil pack, spark plug and injector for that cylinder. Nothing changed. So i did a compression test on the cylinder and it was reading between 0 and 30psi. That scared me a bit. So i took it to gm and after and inspection they told me i had a cylinder 7 misfire and to tell anything further they would have to take the engine appart. So thwre went $100 for nothing. So next i took off the cylinder head to see what was up. The cylinder itself looked ok, no damage. The piston was ok the one exhaust valve was black with carbon build up. So i decided to take the head to a machine shop to get it resurfaced and get a valve job done. He ended up replacing one of the valve guides but it wasnt the 7th cylinder one. So we put the head back on. Brand new gaskets and head bolts and everything. Got her back together started her up and same problem but it was as bad now. Weird that the problem got better but wasnt solved. We then checked the compression again and it was at a steady 120psi. Now i was confused as to what it could be. I checked the o2 sensors and they looked clean. There was no rotten egg smell comming from the exhaust so i assumed the cats were fine. Then i started playing around under the hood while it was running. I unplugged the wire from the map sensor and it started running close to normal. Weird. So i swapped the old map sensor out with a new one but no fix. I honestly dont know what it could be. Something to do with the computer im guessing. Maybe the pcm board? I heard these engines have problems with afm lifters but not sure what to think about that. My afm isnt working. It stays on 8 cyl all the time. Also command start doesnt work anymore. Sorry for the novel but im kinda desperate for help. Thanks again
  18. So, a couple months back I installed the Magnaflow cat-back, single in/dual out, exhaust system on my 2015 2500HD 6.0L Sierra (see some info/pics on the install and outcome below). http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/171270-2015-60-muffler/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1673626 Truly I am quite happy with it. Got a great deal online, sounds great, was able to install it myself with no major issues, got the dual tips perfectly aligned, etc... Fast forward about 2,000 miles. Still love it, however after moving it in my driveway I recently noticed a 3rd wet spot underneath my truck about the same size/shape/color as what had resulted in water dripping from the exhaust tips. So, I got underneath and noticed that some water was dripping from both outlet ports from the muffler. Now, the drips on each side are coming from where you clamp the rear pipes to the muffler outlets. Worth mentioning: periodically since installing, I have gotten back under the truck and checked every nut and bolt for loosening and re-tightened where necessary. There was some very slightly that tightened more after about 50-100 miles but absolutely none since then. Also worth mentioning: the outlet ports on the rear of the muffler are basically exhaust pipe diameter and stick out roughly 1", which is what you connect the exhaust pipe to, and clamp down on. The 1" that sticks out obviously is not a perfect tube; the welding imperfections stick out 1/4"-1/2". I did not want to clamp the exhaust pipe down to only half, or the tip, of the outlet port, so it is partially clamped down over welded material. I believe this is obviously why there is some water leaking, but I saw no way to avoid this. I found the point where I thought the pipe was clamped on just enough to be as solid as possible, which meant MAYBE a few mm's of weld bumps, and tightened the hell out of it. My question: how big of a problem is this small water leak, does it largely effect backpressure, performance, etc.? I am not very knowledgeable on exhaust systems as my last one was done at a local shop, but the only solution I can see is taking it to a shop and having them weld those pieces together to eliminate this issue. At that point, might they as well weld each connection together? Anyone have any other suggestions? Any and all feedback or insight is appreciated. I am pretty sure I know what a shop will tell me to do, but hoping to get the real scoop here first! Thanks!!!!
  19. Hi guys! I have a 2006 Sierra Denali, and I'm just curious if theres any way to get a more substantial gain in power than just the 20hp or so from adding aftermarket air intakes/exhausts? obviously there's turbo and supercharging but is there anything in between? just something around a 40-70hp gain thats not over the top like a form of forced induction would be. It has the 6.0l Vortec and i believe 3.73 gears if that affects anything.
  20. hey guys! i'm new to the forum but, i'm looking for information to helps fix my truck... it's a 2000 GMC Sierra 2500 ext. cab LWB with the 6.0 liter power plant and 4L80E transmission. it was my grandpa's truck that my dad bought from him recently and it'd be a ******** shame to burn it up or sale it for scrap/parts... it's been a great truck since my grandpa bought it 12-13 years ago, never had a problem except the fuel pump went out a couple years ago and the fuel pressure regulator was bad when we purchased the truck, it was dumping fuel straight into the vacuum system and getting HORRIBLE fuel econ. ANYWAY, last week, my pop's was driving it and was scraping in a oil lease and when he went to leave the truck got stuck... like, buried to the axle; leaf-spring pack, driveshaft, trans x-member, etc sitting on the ground. well, the exhaust heat caused the tall grass under the truck to catch fire, and needless to say, caused a LOT of damage... it melted the trans portion of the wiring harness, the park/neutral switch, the shift cable end, and god knows what else. i'm looking for a replacement transmission harness or info that'll lead me in the right direction, it's my dad's daily driver and he's been driving it in its, "limp-home mode" and I don't know how much longer it can take operating un-managed. I thought i'd found a harness in a salvage yard and went to go pick it up, when I got there I was talking with the guy whom I had talked to the previous day about the part and he informed me that the engine/trans electrical harness he had was for a chevy 1500 5.3L 4L60E, instead of the 4L80E like is in mine and that it would NOT work for what I needed. was he correct?.. is there any way that I could modify the harness from a 4L60E to work for my 4L80E? would the park/neutral safety switch and the shifter cable interchange between the 2 transmissions? I had enough trouble finding the one I thought was correct... it seems like the 6.0L/4L80E combo is a somewhat uncommon powertrain option around the SW Oklahoma area, cause I cant find another one... any info, hints, tips, tricks, etc would be a great help in my endeavor... all help will be GREATLY appreciated! thanks in advance for any help I can get!
  21. I have a tranny out of a 6.5l chevy diesel. that was rebuilt. The motor went out so i pulled the rebuilt tranny and scrapped the truck. I now have a 2002 chevy 2500 6.0 gas that i want to put it in. they are both 4l80es. the only difference i have seen are the return lines. The 02 lines are larger and have different connections. (i believe they are referred to has quick connects?) as apposed to the holes on the tranny that are just the double flare thread ons. Can the lines be reduced without causing problems? if so how?
  22. So I am dumb and I mixed regular green coolant with my dexcool and didn't know gm did Dex cool, so there was a little muk from it and I did a flush and it cleaned and everything was good, few days after my truck started to over heat, I didn't let it get too hot and got a tow home, I did a new thermostate and that didn't do it my coolant is going up and down bad and then going over the reservoir cap while burbing it, and then overheats,told it was reservoir cap, so replaced that. then found water pump wasn't pumping water so replaced that, and coolant still doing the up and down and over heating, my one friend said air pocket mayeb but I keep getting cracked heads or gasket but no oil in coolant and takes a good while for it to get hot. I am very stumped and also go told maybe my radiator but not going to replace that till I know for sure. =/
  23. I currently put a 6in BDS lift on my 2003 silverado 2500hd i also put all new ball joints, tie rods, shocks, wheel bearings, and control arm bushings. well i put it all together and when putting the torsion bar keys back on it seemed way to tight. i snapped a breaker bar and bent a ball joint press. i messed around with it and then was able to get it in easier. well now i have no suspension? put your truck up on jack stands with the stands under your frame. that is what it is like. well maybe i turned the key down one to many notches...? no! if i move the key up one notch the truck sits on the floor. it also looks like the torsion bars have a bend to them? i am very confused and do not understand why this is happening i could use some help. thank you. Also i currently do not have my motor in it btw.
  24. Edge products now has tuning available for the 2011-2014 2500/3500 HD equipped with the 6.0L engine, through the brand's Evolution CTS and CS model tuners. Press Release:
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