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Drives

Found 12 results

  1. I rarely drive my 135000 mile 2004 Chevy 2500 since I retired, usually just to tow my home-built squareback trailer (2250 lbs) on camping trips. Before retirement, it was a hauler for my drag race car (for 5 years), towed my camper (for 9 years, now), and also my daily-driver (for 5 years, then part-time after I bought an HHR panel as my daily). The bed is full of camping gear and emergency-use supplies (about 800-1000 lbs), year-round, so it sits while other cars and trucks get more usage. After sitting for three months this time, I changed the oil, topped up some other fluids, and took a 500 mile trip with my trailer attached. Sometimes, if I started off too hard from a stoplight, the 4l80e felt like it was slipping, but not so much if I feathered it at the start. At first I wondered if it might've been a U-joint getting loose, but a quick test underneath proved it to be OK. Furthermore, when I pulled off into soft mud, it really slipped before it grabbed (two-wheel-drive). Though my 6.0L engine/4.10 rear combo has no trouble pulling the 2250 lb trailer, I started using tow/haul mode on the second half of the trip, whenever I was either braking in traffic in urban areas, or when taking off from a dead stop. No slippage when tow/haul is engaged. I had the solenoids upgraded about 50000 miles ago, when stop & go daily driving in rush hour traffic was causing erratic behavior, and I used Lucas Transmission Fix about 25000 miles back, when I felt a slight slamming into second gear (upon part throttle). In each case, the problems went away. I didn't check my transmission fluid before the trip, I confess, but I did check the tranny pan, rear seals, differential for signs of leaks, and found none. On the trip home, I stopped just around the corner and bought a new grease gun & cartridges (for the driveline, which may need some, though I did the front end 10k miles back), and a 24 oz bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix (if the fluid level is low, I'll just top up...if the level is OK, then I'll drain/siphon 24 oz and replace with Lucas). It worked before, so why not try it again?
  2. First time posting here, I’ve got a 2008 gmc 2500 6.0l, very very long story short I did a variable valve timing delete , mild summit cam, headers and injectors, I’ve had this thing to the tuner a dozen times and when the truck is running it runs like a bat out of hell but that’s only when it’s not going into reduce engine power randomly, I’ve replaced the wiring that goes to the throttle position sensor , the Throttle position sensor twice, gas pedal. My tuner can’t seem to help and he’s a reputable intelligent guy, if I could figure out how to control the 6l90 transmission I’d do a carb swap on this thing………… the only thing I’ve been able to figure out is when I’m driving down the road and it goes into reduce power I’ll pull over and relieve the fuel pressure by pushing the schrader valve on the fuel rail and it comes out of reduce power every time, I don’t know if that has anything to do with my problem ? Fuel pressure 60psi.
  3. I switched out the blend door actuator under the drivers side (it controls the different modes/vents). The old blend door actuator was making a clicking noise, so I decided to install a new part and when I did clicking noise was gone, but now I couldn’t switch to different vents/modes. When I first started it up the actuator went through all the different vents/mode, but then when it got to defrost it just stayed there. I thought the actuator was bad, so I got another one, but the same thing happened again. What could be the problem?
  4. I’m really debating on punching out my cat and running a straight pipe through it. My truck puffs out a cloud of white smoke when I dump it and I can tell a loss of power. Has anyone straight piped a 6.0? What are the pros and cons of doing it on a 2006 I’ve always done it to my older pickups but I’m not sure how it will affect this one
  5. I have an 02 Silverado 1500hd. It’s got the original bucket seats with the full center console. I’d like to swap it for a bench seat. Is this possible? I’ve heard of there being air ducts under the console?
  6. I need to replace the 6.0L engine in my 2000 Silverado; local salvage yards are telling me the donor engine must come from a 99-00 model vehicle. Is this correct? I have found an LQ4 6.0L from a 2003 Express van and was wondering if this would be compatible? Any help or clarification on this topic is appreciated. Thanks
  7. I've got a 2004 2500 (non-HD) crew cab and i'm doing an engine swap to a 460hp crate so i'm looking to upgrade the exhaust; most likely just a cat back maybe some shorty headers. My problem is trying to find any non-hd systems, anybody have any experience to know if they're truly different or if they're interchangeable? I'd prefer a single out if possible. here's the engine going in: https://www.high-performance-engines.com/chevy-lq4-6-0l-base-engine-460hp-crate-engine-p/hp93.htm
  8. Having fuel issues. Replaced everything internal on motor to make a stroker. The intake is original. Before fuel pump and FPR change fuel pressure was 42psi now its 49psi after fuel pump and FPR. When it runs for a min it won’t start back up for at least 30min.
  9. I bought this back in... 2013, from a dealer in McKinney, TX (Dallas) for my 2011 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab Z-82 Texas Edition. While I was finishing my 3" rear seat lift, Forward Firing Quad 8" 4.5cu ft NET dual ported box @ 31Hz, mounting my 5 Amps, sealing off every small hole in all 4 doors with 1/8" wood and Dynamat Extreme, my Focal Utopia 6W2 Components, Focal K2p PolyKevlar Comps, etc..... I ended up totalling my 2008 Sierra 5.3l the day before I received the Mechman Alternator. A lady pulled out on the 4 lane highway (speed limit 65mph) + middle turn lane, thinking the stoplight (in the middle of nowhere) was red, but it was green, so I never let off my cruise control, whixh was set to 69mph, 4mph over the speed limit. It was cliche. Everything happened in slow motion. I was just going to slam on my brakes and rear end her, probably giving her a 50/50 chance at surviving or swerve. But I saw a young, 4-8 year old girl in the passenger seat, so I swerved. Unfortunately, I hadn't cleaned off one of my wheel speed sensors, so my VDC wasn't working, so Iserved, thinking my VDC would save me from my sudden jerk of the wheel, but itdidn't, lost the rear end, swerved left initially, then right as my rear end got light, went across I front of her, swerved left and went straight across into a tree and rolled it 4 times. She stopped for a second, never got out and drove off. I had numerous people stop and help me. Most. who saw it, was angry at the car who clearly saw it, a few guys said I should have just ran her over. So anyway... my Mechman G-Series 270a Alternator with the optional $65.00 Billet Aluminum OverDrive Pulley came in the day after I totaled it. The OverDrive Pulley does two things. First, it lightens the unsprung rotational mass, therefore making it much easier to spin which equals more horsepower. 2nd and most important is that it allows much higher output and lower RPM's. I no longer need it as I never purchased another GM vehicle. It just happened that way. I ended up getting a Nissan Armada and now I'm in a 2011 Nissan Titan Pro-4X Crew Cab that I'm lifting 8" in the front & 9" in the rear. I believe I paid $600 total for it as I have the receipt. This fits all GM vehicles from 2004-2014 4.3l, 5.3l, 6.0l, 6.2l and many others such as 3.4l, 3.6l etc.. It fits vehicles with the 2-Pin Alternator Wiring Harness Plug. The alternator I was upgrading was the Optional AC Delco DR44 145a alternator, which is for sale also. Never installed, never mounted, never been inside an engine bay. I do know that the smaller pulley does not require a new belt. I paid $499 + $65 for the Billet Aluminum Overdrive Pulley + $20'ish for Shipping For Sale Price: $400 + Actual UPS Fully Insured ($500) Shipping
  10. Some of you might have seen my post asking for input before I bought my truck... Well, I bought it and I just made a short video to show you... Check it out and let me know what all info I fumbled, haha! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gY-cL1HkTtc
  11. Hey what's up everyone. Not sure if this is where to ask this or not. I'm looking to upgrade from a chevy 2002 1500 z71 to a 2500 chevy or gmc I've been looking from about 2004 and up. The biggest issue I'm trying to decide right now is gas or diesel. I am a mechanic but never worked or messed with diesels.So I tow a open car trailer and racecar in the summer during race season right now about 6,000-7,000lbs depending on which car is on it. I do tow some other stuff here and there too. But I would like the ability to tow more and to have something better for long distance trips and driving/ towing in the mountains. Now mountain trips would probably be less then a handful of times a year. Unless we really decided we liked racing at the track out there then might go a few more times. I don't plan for the truck to be a daily driver. I've put about 20,000 on my 1500 I have now in the 8 years I've had it. About 2-3 years of that was daily driving. Now whatever I do get I plan on having for a good while probably at least 10+ years I would say. And also want to be prepared if I ever upgrade to an enclosed trailer or ever got a camper etc.. What I do know right now is 6.0 is a gas hog, Duramax will give you better fuel economy and obviously better when it comes to towing. I know Lbz trucks seem to be the ones everyone says are the best to go for. But I don't know if I do enough hauling to justify the added expenses and maintenance for a Duramax. Also just trying to figure out what the best years, engine, and trans combos are to look for and any other issues either of these trucks have to be aware of. Sorry if this was too big of a post or not the right place to put this but Any advice help or opinions are greatly appreciated.
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