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Drives

  1. I've been watching the developments on superchargers and tuning since i have first driven my 2019 6.2. Not because it needs more, but because i want more. Either Whipple or ProCharger. I know there are pros and cons. What i havent decided is what other upgrades are needed. I like to make things as bulletproof as possible. What engine upgrades, driveline, etc are suggested? Please be as specific as possible. Id like to avoid pulling the motor, but everything else is fair game.
  2. Which engine is better? I assume the 6.2 has more power and the 5.3 has better mpg, but how much of a difference is it?
  3. I've had this issue for two months but it has been minimal until recently. While going anywhere above 30mph, at around 1200rpm if I give it about quarter throttle to half throttle i will hear a clanking/knocking noise. I have recorded it with my phone but you are unable to hear it at all. The other day while merging on the highway it made the noise much worse than it ever has. I am wondering if anyone has had this before, I know some of the 3.0 DuraMax guys have had it, but has anyone with the 6.2 had an issue similar to this. I will be taking it to the dealership tomorrow.
  4. Hey Guys, I have a 2010 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV with a 5.3L LMG and a 6L80 Trans (MYC) looking to drop in a 6.2L L9H. As far as I understand it is a direct swap. Would I run in to any issues or codes as far as the L9H not having AFM/DOD? I plan on using the 5.3L PCM and having it re flashed to work with the 6.2 Or do I look for a L94 that has FlexFuel, VVT, AFM like the LMG does?
  5. Hey everyone, I recently purchased a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500. It’s a 4x4 Denali with the 6.2L and ultimate package. Overall it’s everything I’ve ever wanted in a truck and more. I live and work in South Carolina, but I’m originally from Upper Michigan (Yooper, eh). Husband to an amazing wife and father to two busy boys. I joined the forum to get some insight into maintaining my truck as well as some tips for upgrading smaller items.
  6. So I've tuned my truck with and it has made a difference from what I can tell. A couple of questions, however. 1. Is there any way to truly fix the hard downshift from 3-2 and what I call lagging going from 2-3 under acceleration? I installed the 91 octane tune, disabled AFM, speed limiter and changed the shift points from 2-3. It seems like the shift point pressure is too much. The RPM's spike when i'm easy on the throttle after a stop. 2. There is an option to change the axle ratio via the tuner which I thought was impossible because the axle is ratio is mechanically fixed, yes? I think I have the 3.23 but I am not 100% sure 3. Side note, I have an Air Raid intake tube, k&n filter, installed a catch can and did a muffler delete. I took out the flapper valve out as well. Truck runs and performs better (sounds awesome too). When I go to pass cars on the highway, I can easily break 100 and you can tell the engine still has a lot left. I truly believe that this truck's engine life has been extended greatly after disabling AFM. Thanks guys.
  7. When I bought my truck in September, I couldn't believe how quiet the exhaust was on a 420hp motor. But I have to remind myself I'm not the target market because the majority of truck buyers these days want quiet and luxury. My first attempt was the muffler delete. I was looking for an affordable option since I was also looking at a potential real estate investment at the time. Honestly, it turned out really good. It was much louder on startup and in town but surprisingly quiet on the highway since I left both flappers in. The best part is it only cost $75. The downside was a slight drone on steady hills and a much louder DFM noise. I could have lived with that except I could tell the truck had a lot more in it. That brings me to my new Corsa exhaust. I've been hoarding these stimulus payments so I figured, why not. For anyone looking - CSP racing has the system around $200 less than anyone else and free shipping. Man... this exhaust really woke the truck up. I know people say this a lot but it really does feel like a different truck. The sound is excellent. My Corvette has the Corsa system as well and it sounds very similar to it on startup and high RPM. Throttle response is way better and it even climbs hills on my regular route a gear higher than it did before. You can just tell how much better the truck breathes with a catback system and those flappers gone. I didn't realize how restrictive they are. And in typical Corsa fashion, it's absolutely silent on the highway. The installation wasn't bad and only took a couple of hours with no lift. Getting the old system off was much harder than getting the new one on. I didn't want the cut the factory exhaust so I can go back to factory when I sell or trade the truck and even without my muffler in the way, it was a bear to get loose and drag out. The only downside is I wish it were louder at lower RPM but overall I'm really happy with it. Sorry, no sound clips yet. I'll work on that. Thanks @TNTSilverado for suggesting this system and giving good advice.
  8. Okay, after 11 months of agonizing mishaps, set backs and over all triumph, I figured it was time to immortalize my truck in a new post. Please welcome my 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 7.0 (427) Turbo Build! Block: Texas Speed and Performance Darton sleeved boost ready block; 7.0L (427). TSP Forged wet sump crankshaft 4.0" stroke 6.125 Boost specific billet I-Beam Rods CP 4.125 -12cc Dish Pistons w/upgraded wrist pins. Clevite main bearings Clevite rod bearings ARP Main stud kit Cylinder Heads/ Intake Precision Race Components ported Cylinder Heads w/ valve job PAC spring/ Valve Kit. Comp Cams rocker arms/trunion Texas Speed & Performance SV Camshaft +30% fuel lobe TSP AFM delete kit Lingenfelter ported 95mm throttle body Ported L86 intake manifold. All ARP bolts or studs. Fuel: GM ZR1 high volume fuel injectors GM ZR1 fuel pump (high side) Armageddon 465 LPH in tank fuel pump (low side) Snow Performance Stage 3 Meth Kit with controller and braided lines. Turbo: Borg Warner S480 T6 Turbo 1.32 AR billet 110/96mm. Turbo smart 50mm BOV Turbo Smart 60mm waste gate Pro Boost controller fully titanium wrapped exhaust Cooling/Oil separators Mishimoto fully aluminum Radiator Mishimoto R-Line Intercooler 31x 12x 4” Mishimoto HD Trans Cooler 2X Mishimoto Black Aluminum catch cans. Mishimoto 180 degree thermostat. Transmission/driveline: Circle D pro 3 torque converter 2700 stall. Custom 5" 6061 aluminum driveshaft rated for 1,200hp 7,300trq MORE to come. I need to get the final tune with the new block. Still runs very well on the old 6.2 tune however, going up to 7.0 adds a layer of goofy on vacuum or under boost.. Next steps Get the PATC Stage 4 transmission kit stuffed into my 6L80E and retune to 900+ whp! Hoping to have that underway around March! Let me know what you all think. Ask any question. I'm open to where I purchased parts, cost of build etc. especially my opinion getting into a build like this.
  9. Hello everyone! Finally installed my UPR can and Airaid intake last week and wanted to give some feedback to anyone interested in something similar. Back story is that we bought a 2018 Yukon XL Denali in Dec then had all lifters n cam replaced 2 weeks after due to dreaded tick on engine with 33k miles. As tech said internals are clean, I decided to go with a can to protect investment especially aftering asking tech and service manager about them and its impact on the warranty. They stated as long as warranty claim isn't affected by catch can, there wouldn't be any issue. Anyways here's some pics of the installation (plenty of videos are available to walk you through it) The UPR kit is well designed for a clean and OEM look.
  10. Thought I’d share what’s going on with my 2012 6.2L Yukon XL. Warning its long, but perhaps it will help someone with the same issues. The short & sweet: L94 6.2 AFM motor with cold start noise. Lifters were replaced prior to our purchase about 9 months ago, and this week my dealer replaced the camshaft & lifters noted camshaft damage. Videos of noise before and after below. There is still a noise after the repair, piston slap - and would you say normal? The detailed story. Purchased 9 months ago in North Alabama. 2012 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L (L94 with AFM) AWD. 1 Owner, 89,897 miles. Apparently at 89,741 (2 months prior to purchase) the lifters were replaced under powertrain warranty, no evidence the camshaft was replaced at that time. I purchased it without that information provided. But no problem, it was running smooth at the time, warm spring Alabama temps. My dad works in parts so had a friend pull the RPO codes & transaction history for the truck, thats how I found out about the lifter work. I did a clean up oil change right after purchase then swapped to my AMSOIL batch on hand. Fast forward to November 2015 timeframe. The nights are getting cooler, and I start to notice the noise at cold starts. The noise disappears once the motor warmed up, and I mean FULLY warmed up. It would clatter for 15 miles to town. I started researching and found TSB & lots of reports of lifter noise, piston slap common with these motors. I honestly wasn’t sure which it was so I laid out my plan to try and eliminate the lifter noise possibility since it was just repaired. From the start of November I completed 3 oil/filter changes. I downgraded from my AMSOIL filters and oil to ACDELCO filters and whatever Dexos oil I could get my hands on. I removed the intake manifold and did a good cleaning of the manifold and intake valves (added a nice catch can as well). I replaced the oil pressure sending unit and the little filter (it was clean but had to check). I removed the valve covers and removed each rocker, cleaned each pushrod with a pushrod brush & B12. I then sprayed a little B12 through each pushrod onto the lifters. Then poured fresh oil over the rockers to prevent dry start. All looked good internally from the get go. After the cleaning & immediate oil change the first start up sounded good! I honestly thought some contaminates just got in the lifters and the cleaning helped. In hindsight the temp was around 60 so the sound was probably just muted. The next day a cold morning, the noise was back. Now even more of a shrill at times with any acceleration. The holidays hit and delayed my trip to the dealer. So last Tuesday I dropped it off at the dealer with 97100 miles. I simply told the service lady it had a bad cold start noise with a prior history of motor work before our purchase & to please have it left outside overnight for a cold am start. The next day she called to say the mechanic has ordered a camshaft & is trying to find out from the previous dealer if the camshaft was ever replaced. Would take a week to repair under powertrain. I had him replace the oil pump & water pump while he was doing the surgery at no extra labor cost. Picked the truck up last night. The mechanic stated he could not find any evidence that the prior dealer replaced the camshaft only the lifters at 89,741. So he replaced both the camshaft & all lifters again. Stated he did find camshaft damage & not sure if it occurred before my purchase or not since it wasn't replaced. He said the motor internally looked real good for one of this millage & the pistons were rather clean (he speculated they had carbon knocked off during its last tear down). So now, the next morning, the temp is 30 outside. I start it up and it has a similar noise to what I brought it in for. It still continues to tap for a good 15 min of driving. Piston slap? I'm hoping this is just the normal noise & we can go on for another 10 years with no major tear downs. Please set my mind at ease. Thanks!
  11. I sold my 2017 GMC Sierra 6.2L. I pulled my UPR Catch Can setup off before trading it in. 2014-2018 Chevy Silverado GMC Sierra 6.2L UPR Dual valve oil catch can system with Clean side separator, plug in play with billet valves. Can also work with 5.3L with a different throttle body hose. I used this setup with an aftermarket cold air intake system installed. I no no longer need this, sold my truck. Paid about $600 new from UPR. Has drain valve installed onto catch can. Can meet in Hesperia or San Bernardino, CA area or I can ship within the states. I have more photos upon request. I couldn’t include them on this post because of upload size. Asking $425
  12. (2015 Silverado LTZ 6.2) So over the last few days I've been recognizing the Battery saver active notification on my truck. I recently installed a Mechman 250 alternator and a new battery, got a stereo system put in and it didn't have enough power for it so I did the big three Upgrade. I'm getting great voltage but after a while of driving I get the (battery saver active) warning does anyone know what that could be I'm kinda lost.
  13. I have a 5.3 with the 6L80 in it and was hoping to swap over to a 6.2 but i can’t find much online about what i will need to replace, anything would help. I know i’ll need a new ECM and possibly a new flex plate but besides that i’m not sure. Thanks in advance!
  14. So this one is a little complicated I drive a 2011 GMC sierra denali, it has the 6.2L V8 with long tube headers and cold air intake. It has also been tuned trying to fix the issue with no luck. While driving about 30-40 mph it begins to buck or lag like the truck is misfiring but there are no codes and i dont believe it is actually misfiring. it seems to struggle unless i am on the gas constantly. It has a similar issue when in the 50-60 mph range as well. Any other time the truck seems to run fine. The best way to describe the anomaly is it seems to oscillate almost for the time it does this instead of smooth acceleration or smooth cruising. It isnt the tac either, it can be heard in the exhaust that it is not running smooth. The things i have done chasing the problem: New injectors, new spark plugs, oil catch can, new spark plug wires, tune, replaced transfer case, cleaned throttle body, new throttle position sensor, new crank shaft position sensor, cleaned all grounds, new MAF, new MAP, new o2 sensors, new air intake manifold. I am starting to think this truck will never be fixed. HELP WANTED lol Thank you for your time.
  15. Hello everyone, I currently have the GM Borla Performance Exhaust on my 2018 6.2L and I want more sound. The guys at muffler shops recommended I replace the muffler with this one: https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/mufflers/street_chambered_mufflers/40_series_original/parts/430402 Part number:430402. I am aware that my current system has a flapper which eliminates drone but would that carry over to this louder muffler?
  16. https://www.procharger.com/truck-superchargers/general-motors/gm-trucksuv/2020-2019-53-62 Anyone see this? I emailed their sales and was told 6-8 weeks for release. Very interested in seeing what's included and what they're doing for ECU tuning.
  17. After being down nearly 6 months the Denali is almost finished. The shop based out of Hudson, NH “Granite State Dyno and Tune” has been incredible. Super professional with absolutely top notch craftsmanship. Here is the build. 2014 Sierra Denali 6.2L Block: GM 6.2L. Forged crankshaft Forged rods Diamond 10:7:1 Pistons. Precision Race Components ported Cylinder Heads w/ valve job PAC spring/ Valve Kit. Comp Cams rocker arms/trunion Texas Speed & Performance Stage 1 Camshaft +30% fuel lobe TSP AFM delete kit Lingenfelter ported 95mm throttle body Ported L86 intake manifold. All ARP bolts or studs. Fuel: GM ZR1 high volume fuel injectors GM ZR1 fuel pump Armageddon 465 LPH in tank fuel pump Snow Performance Stage 3 Meth Kit with controller and braided lines. Turbo: Borg Warner S480 T6 Turbo 1.32 AR billet 110/96mm. Turbo smart 50mm BOV Turbo Smart 60mm waste gate Pro Boost controller fully wrapped exhaust Cooling/Oil separators Mishimoto fully aluminum Radiator Mishimoto R-Line Intercooler 31x 12x 4” Mishimoto HD Trans Cooler 2X Mishimoto Black Aluminum catch cans. Mishimoto 180 degree thermostat. Transmission: Circle D pro 3 torque converter 2700 stall. I think that sums it up... I will post tuning videos and some driving as they come around.
  18. Hi, first time posting on here, I hope I am not bringing up an issue that has been solved or brought up elsewhere. Here we go, I have a 2015 single cab swb 4x4 that came with a 4.3/6l80e, i have swapped this to a 2017 l86/ 8l90e. Truck was fully operational prior to swap no issues, upon completing the mechanical portion of the swap and starting the electrical checkout I have run into some issues. Truck will power up bcm/ gauge cluster with no issue/ lights but I have no ecm activation as fars fuel system coming on or engine rolling over. I am getting the following DTCs: 2535, U0100, 1029( low voltage from fuel system). I have reached out to 8+ different shops for assitance and offered to pay for their time but have not recieved a solution or either not enough experience with newer truck/ motor systems, if there is anyone that has any thoughts/ recommendations/ experience/ solutions on this would be great or a capable shop around north Texas, I am all ears, really excited to figure out what is going and get this on the road. Also everything is 100% factory parts other than texas speed cam and delete kit.
  19. I have a 2018 Sierra 6.2 with Kooks headers, Kooks cats and K&N CAI. I've been thinking about installing a Whipple or a Procharger but I'm considering nitrous too. I'm looking at a Nitrous Express 20936 kit. I just want the extra occasionally and I'm concerned that the supercharger noise will be annoying. Anyone using nitrous on their similar truck?
  20. Installed the borla type-s exhaust couple days ago. build quality is excellent, fitment was absolutely spot on. took me 5 beers and about 2 hours... my thoughts.. on the system... also have a type S on my SRT... 1. Cold start is aggressive! It literally barks.... I was very surprised by this, much louder than my SRT system... 2. After engine warms up and rpms settle down it has the very standard s-type deep burble at idle. If the truck is parked and just running, walking behind it is just music to my ears. Very deep little burble that just sounds great. 3. As you ramp up the rpms and roll through the gears, the sound is deep and pronounced, this is the loudest type-s exhaust I’ve heard. Not in a bad way, just know that you will hear this exhaust unless you absolutely butter the throttle and accelerate like an old woman. 4. No drone in 9th or 10th gear.. no goofy noises or vibrations with cylinder deactivation stuff so that’s a major plus. conclusion happy with the purchase, louder than expected but still nothing too crazy. Getting the ATAK version would be overboard for a pickup in my opinion... engineers at borla said their touring style is identical to the gmc branded perf exhaust in regards to sound output. so their 3 levels are touring- tame type-s - pretty big jump, aggressive! Crazy cold start that barks atak- crazy man over the top sound, I don’t think many guys would go this extreme will get better videos soon
  21. Hey Everyone! I just got a 2017 Sierra SLT over the weekend with a 6.2l engine and 8-Speed Tranny. 85,000 Miles The previous owner had done the following that I can tell from Carfax and looking around: -Aftermarket Headers -MBRP Full Exhaust system -Catch can setup -Heads taken off and gaskets replaced (Per carfax) -Differential Fluid changed -Differential Cover changed I am trying to read up on everything about it and I had some questions that may be obvious or simple but I am having a hard time finding the answers to. 1.Im not entirely sure if the truck has a tune or not.Is there a good way to tell? 2.Would a custom tune disable AFM? 3.Do I empty the Catch can often? 4.Should I do the TSB 8 Speed fluid change at its current miles? Or is it too late? 5.Any advice/ info to a new 6.2l anyone has? Im wanting to know as much as I can. I am looking for this truck to be a 15 year truck. So maintenance and must do's are very important to me. Thanks for any help!
  22. Hey All, I've had a lot of folks ask me about installing my new driveshaft. I will link the thread for the high HP driveshaft. Here is how to remove and install a driveshaft for GM 1500 Trucks. Hope this helps. 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands and block the front wheels. Or use a lift. 2. Place the transmission in Neutral with the parking break OFF. 3. Important** Make a reference mark on the driveshaft and the Pinion flange (if keeping original driveshaft) in line with each other. 4. Remove the rear universal joint bolts and retainers. Rotate the shaft in the most convenient way as to not allow the shaft to spin. Try inserting a screwdriver in the shaft yoke to keep the shaft steady. 5.For Two piece shafts remove the fasteners from the center support bearing. 6. On ALL models, tape the bearing caps to the universal join to prevent the caps from coming off during removal 7. Lower the rear of the shaft and slide the front of the shaft out of the transmission or transfer case. 8. cover the transfer case or transmission with plastic wrap or plastic bag to decrease fluid loss or contamination. DONE!! Installation 1. Assuming the oil seal is in good shape slide the front of the driveshaft into the transmission or transfer case. 1.2. On models with two piece shafts raise the center support bearing into position, install the fasteners and torque to 30 FT-Lbs 2. Raise the rear of the drive shaft into position (make sure to align your marks if reusing your current shaft), install the fasteners and tighten to 18 ft-lbs 3. Install the clamps and bolts. Tighten all bolts to 18 ft-lbs. **FYI The yoke bolts are 118 ft-lbs. Here is a video from youtube that may help too. Here is my post about an upgraded driveshaft, 1,200 Hp and 8,300 torque.
  23. Hey guys just wanted to share tis bit of info that I was able to find. It was difficult locating a driveshaft for a 14+ GM 1500 so I hope this helps. After spending tons of time trying to find a less complicated way to upgrade my DS I visited alldrivelines.com (referral from a member) and saw the 800hp rated 2 piece shaft. I called to verify compatibility and was let down by the rep. It is not user friendly for the 4x4's. However, after asking me some great questions Shelby @ Alldrivelines (661) 633-2303 simply said why don't you get our 1,200hp rated driveshaft for the 14+ GM 1500.. I said ..."wait huh". Tell me more. This is currently not listed on the website. It is a 5" 6061 Aluminum shaft with a .125 wall thickness. It is rated for over 1,200 HP and 7,300 ft tq. She can get the correct size for other models too (bespoke). I'm running the following with a Stock Trans/Transfer Case and ride hight. Make: GMC Model: Sierra 1500 Denali Drive: AWD/4WD Loc: Rear Bed: 5'9" Chassis: 143.5"WB Doors: 4 Door After some negotiating it ended up being $580 SHIPPED from CA to MA!!!. (She also suggested the upgraded billet slip yoke rated 1200hp it was an extra $100 so I'm actually $680.00 shipped)** Just a heads up folks. If you want a Driveshaft that can handle high speeds, high HP and TQ this is the place to go. Call Alldriveline (661) 633-2303 and ask for Shelby. Mention my last name Melaas and they'll cut you the same deal. A 1,200 hp rated shaft with the billet yolk for $680 shipped. I don't get anything for it I just asked if I could refer my friends here for the same deal and she said sure. Very nice Lady. Lastly it is a 2-3 day processing and shipping for me (ca - ma) is about 3-4 days. I should have it next Thursday! I will send pics. PM if you have any questions.
  24. Anyone know what this noise is? It's very intermittent. Seems to do it most often between 40 and 50 MPH cruising with maybe a slight up hill. Never does it on coast or heavy acceleration. Very hard to tell where it's coming from. 20190521_191545_001.mp4 2014 Sierra Denali 1500 Crewcab, 5'8" bed 6.2 Litter 3.42 axle ratio about 118,000 miles
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