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Found 14 results

  1. So I'm trying to do the heated/cooled seat retrofit in my 2017 silverado 1500 and I've found a lot of stuff online about how it would be a whole lot of work because of all the extra wiring that the system has, & that it would be almost impossible if you didn't have heated seats to begin with, but I don't accept that & I am determined to make it happen. I've already bought every bit of interior out of this high country which came with the heated/cooled seats, but now that it comes time to actually do the swap I realize that I probably should have done a little more research before spending this much money on this stuff because If pgamboa is correct that means I just wasted $1500, but I'm determined to prove him wrong(no offense if you happen to see this lol). So I guess My main question is, has anyone been able to do this retrofit successfully, to where the heating, cooling, and power all work as designed & so there aren't any airbag lights or other warning lights/messages on the dash? I'm a technician at a gm dealership so I have access to all the wiring diagrams and oem information that I could possibly need, but I'm a little confused as to the hard parts that I will 100% actually need,& I haven't heard of anybody actually doing this successfully with everything working as it should, so I want to make sure it's possible without wasting a whole bunch of time on it to figure it out. The other main concern that I know will need to be done for it to function properly, and the thing I'm most concerned about figuring out, is the programming aspect of it. Obviously the truck will need to be programmed in order for the system to function, but im not quite sure on how to go about doing that, especially since I'm going to be adding new modules entirely since my truck didn't have heated seats to begin with, but would there not be a way to avoid having to do that & just running power and ground to the heated/cooled seats, but still using thd factory buttons to retain the oem look? I mean their pretty much just toggle switches, so really in theory, for for the low setting heat I would think I could just install a resistor between the switch & seats, and could do away with the need for all the modules , I just wouldn't have the memory features or comfort/convince settings that I would if it were programmed correct? That is obvi a worse case scenario type situation if there's just no way to make it work with an aftermarket programmer or something. Which everyone always says something about how if you go that route & end up taking it to a dealership or something & they reprogram the bcm then it would take away all the other features, but since I work at a dealership I can make sure it never has an mdi hooked up to it. It'd be nice if gm would let you program any module to your vehicle if all the appropriate hardware was there & whatnot I really don't understand why they don't allow that, but apparently it's above my pay grade lol. But if anyone has any info om this, or better yet if angone has actually SUCCESSFULLY done this, please help ya boy out with some info! Please & thanks In advance!
  2. My l84 5.3 cracked some pistons now thinking of doing a light hone but wanted to know if it would even save the engine ? The scratches are pretty light my nail doesn’t get stuck but I do feel em. The pours on the other hand I’m not sure what could have caused those little things ?
  3. I have a 5.3 with the 6L80 in it and was hoping to swap over to a 6.2 but i can’t find much online about what i will need to replace, anything would help. I know i’ll need a new ECM and possibly a new flex plate but besides that i’m not sure. Thanks in advance!
  4. New Member hoping to shake some fruit from the tree of knowledge: I have 2015 Silverado Z71 with the 5.3L L83 engine. I installed a remote oil filter relocation kit from Hamburger Performance to relocate the oil filter from the awful factory location to the nice empty space in the engine bay, right behind the driver's side headlights. I already have an external transmission filter kit in this same spot. (3rd pic is of new oil filter on the left with blue tape on inlet line, transmission filer kit is just to the right of oil filter kit) . I got tired of oil puking on me when changing the filter and wanted to run a larger oil filter than stock. My question is: has anyone else done this Mod. and if so how did they route their oil lines from the old filter location up into the engine bay compartment? From the stock filter location (2nd pic) , there is a tiny space inside the front left frame rail and I've got my oil lines snaking between the front drive shaft and the driver's side exhaust manifold (Pic # 4 & 5 oil line is black braided nylon hose). I'm getting a loud whining noise which I'm pretty sure is the oil lines pulsating against the frame or exhaust heat shield. I'm considering re-routing the lines to the outside of the left frame rail and bringing them up inside the drivers side wheel well (1st pic) but this seems less than ideal as the lines would be somewhat exposed to road elements or suspension movement. The good news is I've got good oil pressure (40 lbs at idle, 60-80 lbs @ 3750 RPM once the second stage oil pump kicks in) so I know I hooked them up correctly and oil is flowing. I've changed oil filters thinking that might quiet the noise but no luck. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  5. My trucks going in for open heart surgery in a month. DOD delete, tsp stage 2 L83/5.3 cam in my L86/6.2. I eventually would love to put a blower on it. I drive the truck frequently and don’t want to do too big of a cam where I’ll have to change my torque converter. Will I get away with a L83 stage 3 cam with my stock converter or should I stick to the stage 2. Specs are 5.3L Stage 2 Camshaft w/ +32% Fuel Lobe: 218/226, 635", 113 LSA, 109 ICL All my mods will be intake, portable TB, (hopefully have my heads ported when it goes in for dod delete and cam) LT4 injectors, 1-7/8 long tube hears, off-road y-pipe. I’ll have a 3.5” electric cut out followed by stock exhaust for now. Trucks reverse level and blocks removed. 22x12 -51 285/35r22 no trimming or cutting
  6. Okay folks... what is the consensus numbers on what a good set of 1 3/4” primary long tubes (Kooks, ARH, etc) will get you on an basically (maybe a CAI and a cat back) stock L83? Info/numbers on catted vs non-catted would be cool too. So would before and after tuning... even though it’s pretty much a given that you need a tune if you do long tubes. Thanks y’all!
  7. Just wanted to post on here, as I have seen no less than a thousand posts with questions about the 6L80E, specifically about the power threshold of a stock unit. I have a 2014 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab Standard Bed stock 3.42 gears stock drive shaft stock 20" rims/tires 6.2L fully forged top/bottom end "Armageddon Twin Nagasaki's" (GT3582R's) e-boost 2 gauge Z06/LT4 fuel system 365lph in-tank Armageddon fuel pump QTP exhaust cut-outs and laid down 965rwhp/850 rwtq on a mustang dyno with 18psi on 116 race fuel (cut-outs open). I say all of this because the stock transmission detonated the 4-5-6 shaft (intermediate hub) near the splines. I took it to a "race shop" that said they would upgrade as much as they could; and was told at the time, there were limited aftermarket parts available for the 6L80E. This was mid 2018 with less than 10K miles on the truck and about 500 miles on the engine/turbo build and I discovered that was not entirely true. I drove the truck after their work, with "spirited road driving" while the roads were wet no less. Long story short; they f'd me and I detonated the 4-5-6 stock intermediate shaft again within 100 miles and no traction at all. They apparently replaced all parts that were broken with stock parts! Moving on, I took my truck to a different shop and researched my a** off and found PATC Transmissions. I had a warm and fuzzy after speaking with them and ordered the Phoenix Level 4 Master Rebuild kit among a few other minor accoutrements and re-tuning of my TCM by Mike from Century Automotive. It is now APR 2019 and I am about 1 1/2 weeks away from having the my billet planetary gear mailed to me; for the new, more reputable shop in my area to install all of this PATC bada**ery. If anyone is truly interested, I will post new info once I put the new Phoenix Master Rebuild kit through the ringer with the full weight/horsepower/torque of my particular application...I hope this helps if there are some lost souls out there that may be headed down the same long. hard. road. of a "full send" like myself! Please post if you have questions/comments/concerns; as I have "been there done that and forgot the t-shirt" with the L86/6L80E so far.
  8. Hey guys, I'm trying to determine if an l86 intake bolts up fine to the stock l83 heads? Reason i'm asking is I have a chance to get a blower kit at a crazy deal from local shop but its for a 6.2 truck. I'm not worried about tuning as it will be dyno tuned, just wondering if I'm going to run into issues with ports not lining up or if they'll even bolt together. Thanks in advance
  9. Wondering if anyone as put a 4.00" stroke crank in a stock l83 block?
  10. Surely someone must make some nicer looking/dressed up coil cover/valve covers for the new style engine by now? Can't find a thing online. Would be nice to spruce things up under the hood a bit with some chrome or carbon fiber or just something different. Anyone spot anything anyplace???
  11. Hey there. Getting ready to do a TSP cam swap on my 2017 5.3 Sierra and I’m wondering if the Msd intake is worth putting on at the same time? I’m looking for a list of parts needed and if anyone is seeing worth while gains from it? Currently have a K&N intake, pacesetter longtubes, true dual exhaust with an H pipe, and 4.88 gears. Thanks in advance
  12. Hey Forum - Do any of yall have results from running your L83 on a dyno? I plan on doing a Black Bear tune soon and was going to do before/after dyno results. Curious if anyone has results to post here that I can compare to. My truck is a 2014 LTZ Z71 with the 5.3L and 3.73 gears (9.5in rear end) from the Max Trailer Tow package. I have a K&N CAI and a custom dual exhaust where the muffler and resonator were deleted. FYI: I was reading this thread earlier. My truck is currently governed at the stock limit of 100mph. So, I assume it would still be safe to take on the dyno. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/198544-dyno-tune-driveshaft-cannot-handle-115/?page=1
  13. If this is posted in the wrong spot, please let me know as I am new. I am looking for some advice from some other guys who have gone down the same path I am about to go down. I have a 2015 Silverado 5.3 and next week I am ordering an on3 76mm ball-bearing turbo kit for it, Snow Performance Stage 2 water meth kit, 4'' exhaust and a converter (not sure the stall, HELP!) My goal is 620-650 rwhp. I have a friend who put down 614 on meth with a 70mm kit and a 3200 stall precision converter. My questions are this because I am not as familiar with this L83. What will factory fuel support? will I need a pump/injectors to get in the low-mid 600s? What would be a good converter to use on the street but also still be able to pull an open trailer with my sidexside (RZR XP Turbo) on it? Who has experience with On3 turbo kits? Vengeance Racing, a very reputable and trustworthy shop here in Georgia will be dyno tuning the truck for me once I am done. Thanks guys!
  14. Hey all! Hope everyone is having a wonderful Monday morning. I’m reaching out to y’all because i purchased my 2014 Silverado 5.3 used, with 76k highway miles. From purchase, it had a decently loud engine, which after reading some posts about direct injection and the oil delivery of these engines, thought it was normal. But after comparing engine sounds to other 2014-2016 5.3 engines, I’ve come to the realization that my engine is obviously not operating the way it should be. My transmission acts up a bit, but that’s GM transmissions... I’ll have it checked out when I take it for a warranty service. Anyways, I wanted to hear what you guys think on this topic. I can’t seem to figure out what the whining is from, and why it’s incredibly quieter on other trucks. Maybe my (part that produced the whine) needs to be replaced? I don’t know what it is. My starter grinds sometimes and it’s a nasty sound, but I heard starters aren’t covered under warranty. Then, I noticed, if I get on the pedal and let off, there’s a chirp...I have no freakin clue what that is, so any insight on that helps. Next up is my lifters. I have to definitely get new lifters, and I heard that the lifters go bad after many miles thanks to the B.S. AFM. Once I get the full service I’ll be tuning out the AFM. Then, finally, is my driveline. I get almost like a “clunk” somewhere along the driveline towards the end when I’m coming to a stop, and going... I think it might be my UJoint. Thank you guys for any input you leave, it’s greatly appreciated.
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