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Drives

Found 2 results

  1. Like many of you, I was affected by the faulty high pressure a/c hose design on my 2014 Silverado. Fortunately for me it was only February in Texas and I barely needed it. Even more fortunately though, I still had 80 miles left on my CPO warranty so I didn't have to haggle with the dealer about repair costs. We'll see how long my condenser cooperates as I figure it's next to go on the A/C system. While my truck was in the shop the dealer loaned me a fully-loaded (of course) 2018 Sierra with a 5.3 for a day. Once I got over the Sierra having just about every bell and whistle my rig didn't have, I noticed just how good the acceleration was compared to my truck. So much so that I was convinced that GM had bumped the horsepower/torque ratings between 2014 and 2018. Once I verified that they hadn't, I went on a fact finding mission to figure out why this truck drove like a beast on acceleration while mine felt like a 4 cylinder. I had researched buying a pedal controller to see if that would help my lousy tip-in on acceleration but simply could not justify the cost. I did know that I was tired of the lackluster get-up-and-go of the first 1/3 of the pedal travel of my truck--especially after my experience with this peppy loaner. The first modification I made to my truck after buying it was to shim under the lower portion of the metal assembly that the accelerator pedal attaches to as I had been following this forum and knew it had been identified as a problem. I opted for using half of a clothespin which took 99% of the flex out of the pedal assembly, so I knew that was not my problem. Instead, I crawled under my loaner 2018 Sierra's dash and took a picture of the part number on the gas pedal assembly--it was GM# 23362231. Once I got my truck back, I peeked at the number on its pedal assembly and it was GM# 20972082. After some research I could not determine when this older number got superseded, but I knew if the price was right I'd buy the new part number and see if it helped my truck. I picked one up off a well known auction site for about $54 and installed it the day I got it. I waited almost two months to share this because I wanted to verify that it improved my acceleration for real and not just in my imagination. I can definitively say, for my truck, that the initial acceleration has improved noticeably. I will even go so far as to say that the low-speed transmission shifts that seemed to startle the truck into what I would call "panicked shifting" garbage-truck-style have improved about 80%. Once I get a my valves cleaned by a shop that has the BG cleaner I think it will accelerate like the 2018 I was loaned. The swap of the pedals is pretty simple. Two 10mm bolts on the lower left and upper right as shown in the attached picture. A 1/4 inch deep well socket with a small extension did the trick. The upper right bolt is a bit of a stretch but not too bad.I unplugged the old one and plugged in the new one and put the bolts back in. I did not do a side-by-side multi-meter test of these pedals to verify the voltages with pedal travel because I did not have an electrical diagram of the several contacts in the wiring harness connector on the pedals. I started to try and it was simply futile. So I just installed the new part and took it for a test drive. To repeat, the new GM Part Number is 23362231 and it worked for my 2014 Silverado with the 5.3. I hope that these results can be duplicated (and enjoyed) by you folks in the forum. I like my truck a lot better now since this "upgrade." If anyone else tries this, please report your results!
  2. Hi all, my Sierra went into reduced power mode a few weeks ago and I replaced the accelerator pedal position sensor after reading P1125. The code went away immediately and all was well. Today, my car went back into limp mode. I took the tape off my APPS connector wires and they seem to be in fine condition, the guy must have just wanted to keep them bundled together. After unplugging my apps, I plugged it back in and it got out of limp mode and I was able to drive it for like 5 miles until it went back into REP. Same code, 1125. Again, I tried unplugging/plugging the connector back in and the code is gone. Any thoughts as to why it keeps going back to reduced power and goes away for a bit after unplugging and plugging the APPS back in?
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