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Found 6 results

  1. Can anyone tell me where the vertical adjustment screws for the low beam projector on a 2016 suburban with stock halogens are? I recently retrofit the low beam bulbs (which are ridiculously dim) with Morimoto HIDs and need to lower the beams a bit. The Left/Right adjustment is on the back of the assembly, clearly marked and easy to find, but I have not been able to find any adjustment on the headlamp assembly for vertical adjustment, even after removing the plastic air dam that covers the top of the headlamp assemblies. Any suggestions/information much appreciated, Justin
  2. I recently purchased a new 2020 2500HD LT Z71 from the dealer with aftermarket 5” suspension lift and 37” tires. I decided to replace the halogen bulbs with aftermarket LED bulbs that work great, but I blind everyone I pass. I tried calling the dealer to inquire about headlamp adjustment, but they told me to contact the place who lifted the truck. That place said they had never received a call like that and headlight adjustment wasn’t a part of the lift kit. I was inclined to adjust on my own, but it seems the standard headlight adjustment screw doesn’t exist on the 2020 2500HD. Has anyone with left/level been successful at adjusting the headlamps? I got pulled over yesterday and the police officer said he would cite me if I didn’t get them adjusted...
  3. Good morning. I just installed a light bar yesterday; last night when I tested it, I found that it lights the trees up like daylight...unfortunately, it doesn't really do much for the road in front of me. I have the brackets adjusted as far as I can, so short of adjusting my bumper (this bumper is designed for a light bar) I am needing some advice...so I am looking for a shim or some sort of a bracket that I can use for a shim to prop the back up, to point the light down. Any suggestions? (btw, I will update the install pics once I get all this figured out...process was much more smooth than I anticipated, outside of the direction that the light points! HAHA!)
  4. 02/26/15 update: It appears I had a front latch assembly that was moving around because one of the two nuts was not tightening all the way, the bolt it is on just spins with the nut. I spoke to Fold A Cover and they are sending me a new latch assembly under warranty! So far, I have to say they have top notch customer service! As for the striker bolts, I replaced the stripped T-nuts with 5/16-18 square nuts and I was back in business. I did note that with two washers and the extra thickness of the personal caddy the striker bolt didn't thread into the T-nut as much and I think that's how I stripped it, so I only re-installed with one washer and it threads all the way. ------------------------------------------------------- So I just spent the last 3 hours installing my G4 Elite .... and I'm still not done! I installed it and had to adjust every single rotary latch as they were not lined up, and the timing was way off (one would open as soon as you start lifting the handle and other side would open when handle almost all the way pulled, same thing in the front and back) I adjusted the striker bolts, the rear ones were super easy and lock pretty easily, the front ones were a pain because where it didn't take all my force to close the panel, the panel would not be flush with the rails, and if I made it flush with the rails, not only did I have to put all my weight into closing them (while standing on the step) but only one side would latch at a time so I'd have to go to the driver's side, open the rear door, get on the step and slam the thing shut, make sure it was locked, then go to the other side, open the rear door, get on the step and put all my weight in above the latch to get it to lock. I finally found a "happy medium" and with the panel sticking up about the thickness of 2 pennies stacked together it would close both sides at once. Then I installed the personal caddy, first marked the T-nuts and removed both front striker bolts, put the caddy in, tucked the seals, re-installed the striker bolts and once I closed the panel it was a lot harder to close (back to one side at a time) but also the passenger side would not lock all the way (if I pulled on it, it would go up). I removed the driver side striker bolt and it pretty much pulled right out ..... T-nut was striped out ..... so much for buying that new torque wrench that can do in.lb .... I'm guessing the soft aluminum just wore out from tightening/loosening the striker bolt so many times (and it's not like you make that thing tight, it's only 70 in.lb which is less than 6 ft.lb!) so now with the passenger side striker bolt in only, before I loosened it, I decided to try and see if it would lock, tried to close it but it took a lot of force, and I could still pull it up some, it was locked but had about 1-1.25" of play that it would go up if I pulled on the panel. I figured maybe it only latched halfway, so I loosened the striker bolt, raised it a little, and tried again. Now it would lock with no movement, but the panel would stick up way too much from the rails, so I decided to put the striker between the two and test it, after I moved the striker, closed it and pulled on the panel to see if it was locked and the whole thing just slammed open .... second T-nut also stripped out and pulled out when I pulled on it. Now I'm left with no front strikers and I have to drive the truck to work so I'm guessing I have to pull the whole panel piece off. For those of you that have installed their G4 Elite themselves, did you have any problems getting the front latches to latch properly with the panel flush with the rails?
  5. Just wondering how many GMT900 people have a lumbar seat adjustment that doesn't work? My dads '10 escalade and my brother's '07 silverado both have passenger side in/out lumbar adjust that just makes a clicking noise when the button is pushed. Up/down works fine but not in/out. Seems like there must be a common issue there. How complicated is it to get to the problem part for a fix?
  6. Here's a link to a tidbit of basic tech for aiming aftermarket fog and/or driving lights. You can click on the image to see the drawing really well, too. As we all know, factory "fog" lights are more cosmetic than functional!: http://www.propickupmag.com/aiming-fogdriving-lights/
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