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Showing results for tags 'amplifier'.
Found 11 results
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I recently installed two audio control amplifiers (D.4-800 and LC-800) coupled with infinity kappa CSX 90 and CSX 60 component system for the highs and (2) P3 15” subs for the lows. I’m having trouble getting a frequency ranges from 15 kHz to 35 kHz from the factory radio to the amp. We double checked the wiring coming in from all the inputs from the Bose system and everything checks out. I am very disappointed with the way my new system sounds. Do any of you guys know what’s the fix on this? Long story short my tweeters sound like ******. -
I am installing a 10” subwoofer in my 17 Silverado custom double cab with 7” touchscreen non bose. I have everything ran and wired except for my loc. I’d like to install it behind the factory touch screen. I can not seem to find the colors for the speaker wires anywhere. Every one I’ve found has a green plug and mine has a grey and brown plug. Can anyone tell me which wires are for the rear speakers? Thank you in advance.
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I have a 2004 Silverado 4x4 with the Bose system. I just put a brand new aftermarket head unit in it and still no sound so I bought a used amp off eBay, installed it and still nothing. Fuses are all good and all connections are as they should be I’ve read a lot saying it could be the speakers. If one speaker blows could it shut down the whole system? I’m at a lose and nothing I have read has been specific enough to my problem nor has anything given me a confirmed fix Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you
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Hey guys, first and foremost Merry Christmas and I hope everyone is having a great holiday, I however am in a bit of a bind. I wasn't happy with the bose sound system in my new Trail Boss so I went with JL 3.5” in the dash, and a 6x9 3 way coaxial and a 6.5 2 way coax in the rear. I originally bought the factory kicker sub upgrade for the bose to see if it would help and it did but it wasnt enough so I went with JL. Only problem is I ****ed up and my wife had a tech support package through Best Buy so my install was free and it certainly showed. Ive already undid what they did and it seems they tapped into the speaker wire cluster in the passenger door panel and tried to wire from the bose amp to the new JL 5 Channel amp and then tried to run my 6 channel LC7i output converter to the factory head unit from the same rear passenger door cluster. Sounded like shit, I had no control over my fades, my highs were ear shrieking, no sound when making phone calls and they attached the wrong wires etc. Long story short I memorized all the speaker wire colors in the truck both positive and negative fixed the cluster they ****ed up and have everything other than the speakers that are currently disconnected; connected. Ive also got the kicker sub upgrade to work with the 6” bose sub without the special harness after some splicing and tapping into the mono sub input coming from the bose amp (Blue/Grey and Green/Black thicker gauge wire). My problem Im running into is where I tap into the signal coming from my head unit in order to plug into my LOC. From there I can hook my amp up to my speakers and call it a ****ing day. Ive pulled my rear seats to have full access to the bose amp and Ive also pulled the door sills and some of the dash to be able to get to the dash speakers. Which brings me to my other problem. I don't want my 3.5” JL speakers to be wired to the bose sub for obvious reasons, so is it possible to wire them directly to the head unit since they're a lower RMS and, if so, then how? Basically where do I tap into the truck to install my six channel LOC and wire my dash speakers to my head unit. Currently I have the speaker wires in the rear passenger sill cluster snipped since thats where best buy had them snipped in order to bypass the amp. Additionally is bypassing the amp as simple as snipping the wires belonging to the speakers which the bose amp is supplying power to? I know there are harnesses but Ive already got the truck apart and I have my solder and weather tubes to properly splice my connections so I don't mind the work as long as Im able to get it done, Ive been without proper sound for 3 months Im not waiting on a harness since the holidays is the only time I have off. Il post pictures of the cluster **** shortly. Merry Christmas and happy holidays guys !
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Hey all, we're a local Chevy dealer with a strong ecommerce presence. We have the lowest prices on the Kicker subwoofer package for the 2014+ Silverado & Sierra Crew & Double/Extended Cab sizes. Installation does not require dealer install. it is a plug and play package. We have guaranteed low prices that shouldn't be beat! GM offers a few versions of these units: -Double Cab and Crew Cab models have different parts numbers -GM offers just a sub upgrade, or the sub upgrade plus amplifier on the door speakers. *The standard Sub upgrade works with the Bose system. *The kit including Sub plus Amp on the door speakers will NOT work with Bose systems. For a price, please send us a message with your body style truck, and which kit you would be interested in plus your Zip Code for shipping. Everything is in stock ready to ship. Forum members will find that our prices on all GM accessories will be hard to beat. Please message me with any questions on this or any other accessory you may need for your truck. *** Currently running a little bit of a deeper discount on the crew cab models, with just the sub upgrade. Buy cheap, sell cheap is the name of the game ***
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Hey, I'm getting an aftermarket subwoofer setup. I would Like to get a button to turn the amp on and off. Either for the seat warmer position or the bank of buttons below. Does anyone have a site where I could buy one?
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I bought this back in... 2013, from a dealer in McKinney, TX (Dallas) for my 2011 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab Z-82 Texas Edition. While I was finishing my 3" rear seat lift, Forward Firing Quad 8" 4.5cu ft NET dual ported box @ 31Hz, mounting my 5 Amps, sealing off every small hole in all 4 doors with 1/8" wood and Dynamat Extreme, my Focal Utopia 6W2 Components, Focal K2p PolyKevlar Comps, etc..... I ended up totalling my 2008 Sierra 5.3l the day before I received the Mechman Alternator. A lady pulled out on the 4 lane highway (speed limit 65mph) + middle turn lane, thinking the stoplight (in the middle of nowhere) was red, but it was green, so I never let off my cruise control, whixh was set to 69mph, 4mph over the speed limit. It was cliche. Everything happened in slow motion. I was just going to slam on my brakes and rear end her, probably giving her a 50/50 chance at surviving or swerve. But I saw a young, 4-8 year old girl in the passenger seat, so I swerved. Unfortunately, I hadn't cleaned off one of my wheel speed sensors, so my VDC wasn't working, so Iserved, thinking my VDC would save me from my sudden jerk of the wheel, but itdidn't, lost the rear end, swerved left initially, then right as my rear end got light, went across I front of her, swerved left and went straight across into a tree and rolled it 4 times. She stopped for a second, never got out and drove off. I had numerous people stop and help me. Most. who saw it, was angry at the car who clearly saw it, a few guys said I should have just ran her over. So anyway... my Mechman G-Series 270a Alternator with the optional $65.00 Billet Aluminum OverDrive Pulley came in the day after I totaled it. The OverDrive Pulley does two things. First, it lightens the unsprung rotational mass, therefore making it much easier to spin which equals more horsepower. 2nd and most important is that it allows much higher output and lower RPM's. I no longer need it as I never purchased another GM vehicle. It just happened that way. I ended up getting a Nissan Armada and now I'm in a 2011 Nissan Titan Pro-4X Crew Cab that I'm lifting 8" in the front & 9" in the rear. I believe I paid $600 total for it as I have the receipt. This fits all GM vehicles from 2004-2014 4.3l, 5.3l, 6.0l, 6.2l and many others such as 3.4l, 3.6l etc.. It fits vehicles with the 2-Pin Alternator Wiring Harness Plug. The alternator I was upgrading was the Optional AC Delco DR44 145a alternator, which is for sale also. Never installed, never mounted, never been inside an engine bay. I do know that the smaller pulley does not require a new belt. I paid $499 + $65 for the Billet Aluminum Overdrive Pulley + $20'ish for Shipping For Sale Price: $400 + Actual UPS Fully Insured ($500) Shipping
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I have a BNIB Mechman G Series 270a Alternator for the NNBS trucks. This will fit numerous other vehicles with the 2 pin plug which includes 4.3l, 5.3l, 6.0l and many others. I am just now getting around to posting everything up for sale which I am posting for sale on other GM Truck message boards. Holidays have been hell I am selling it in Brand New Condition with 10% off of the cost straight from Mechman + Free Shipping to the 48 states. So $479 – 10% = $431.10. I will make it an even $430 with Free Shipping. It has its factory warranty as I purchased it from an authorized dealer straight through Mechman. It's been a rough past several months... I was buying everything collectively over the past several months and would have had everything purchased and installed by now except earlier this year, I was rushed to the hospital where I was hospitalized for 3 weeks and had to have major abdominal surgery which took me a couple of months to recover from. I then resumed purchasing everything, but never got a chance to install. I totaled the truck in a rollover accident in late August where I had just begun my installation process which included removal of my rear seats, installing the 3" rear lift I assembled together, installed my 40 section of my 40/60 rear seats, installed my Dynamat, painted and mounted my amp rack backplate, ran one of my 1/0awg OFC power wire and was in the process of running my second run of 1/0awg power wire and had just built my fiberglass QUAD 8” 3.0 cuft net forward facing ported box tuned to 31Hz for my brand new 4 Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 Stock SPL subs. This is how I had my new install planned out, which many of this is for sale. I had everything ready to install my new stereo which includes my 4 Brand New Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 Stock SPL Model 8” Subwoofers, BNIB Audiopipe AP30001D 3000wrms amplifier, XS D3400 Battery, New Kinetic HC16V 16Volt battery with dual 12v and 16v battery post, my current Focal Utopia 6.5” Components installed in the front doors, my current Focal K2P 6.5” Components with Digital Design T1 silk dome tweeters for a more laid back sound installed in the rear, my current Focal PS 165 Performance 6.5” Components installed in my Q-Logic Kick Panels, New, but not installed yet Audiopipe AQX-360.4 4 channel amp, my currently installed Phoenix Gold Tantrum 500.2, 2 runs of 1/0awg OFC Cadence Cool Wire that I only had 1 run installed, several various distribution power fused and ground blocks and my currently installed JVC KW-NT800HDT 7” TouchScreen Navigation/DVD Unit. I was able to take the stock alternator, various interior plastics, Gorilla Locking Lugnuts, and some other items. I have the factory radio also. All of this is available for sale except the Gorilla Locking Lugnuts if anyone needs it for their NNBS truck. I will eventually begin posting the items, mentioned above, I have for sale soon. I know have a Nissan Armada SE 4x4 so I won’t need any of the factory items and many of the other BNIB Car Audio equipment. I am selling it in Brand New Condition with 10% off of the cost straight from Mechman + Free Shipping to the 48 states. So $479 – 10% = $431.10. I will make it an even $430 with Free Shipping.
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Last fall I upgraded my door speakers in my CC with the 8" non-Bose stereo. The new Kicker DS Coax speakers were a nice improvement without adding an Amp. The only drawback is the stock dash tweeters are a bit too pronounced compared to the door speakers... Now I'd like to have a bit of a stronger, cleaner sound and am considering a line-level 4 channel amplifier without a sub. Desired changes: - Add a line-level amp so no need to step down the audio outs - Connect the amp to the 4 door speakers - Better balance the volume of the tweeters with the rest of the system - Avoid need for a sub.. I want a clean sound, but don't care for thumping - Keep cost in moderation - These amps are pretty small, so I'd mount it up front under the dash or similar Note: I have Alldata subscription, so any links to the proper Alldata pages would be helpful I need help understanding the following: - As the truck has 6 speakers (4 doors and 2 tweeters), are there 6 channels coming out of the head-unit? or is it 4 channel with some sort of bypass for the tweeters? HOW MANY SPEAKER WIRES AR COMING OUT OF THE HEAD-UNIT? Will the tweeters be problematic? - Amplifiers to consider... seems like the Alpine and Clarion are both pretty popular on Crutchfield. Any comments on these? http://www.crutchfield.com/g_347050/4-channel-Amplifiers.html?tp=35782##&nvpair=AG_General_Features%7CYCSpeaker_Level_Inputs - Would love to find some male and female wiring harnesses to work with the stock connections. An anyone suggest part # and where to get? - Given I'm not looking for a huge amp, power draw shouldn't be huge.. Any recommendations on where to tap into a power source? - Any tips on getting at the speaker outs on the factory head unit?
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I'm planning on adding component speakers and aftermarket amplification to my 2015 Bose System with Subwoofer. I've seen several posts stating that the chimes were extremely loud after amplification. I know that the head unit controls don't adequately lower the volume. Has anyone successfully bypassed or attenuated the chimes yet? I read that theoretically you could tap into the post-Bose amp rear speaker signal and then split you your components and sub signals from this. The chimes apparently go through the front left speaker. Would this allow you to still use bluetooth for phone, etc, and is this the best option? Any ideas?
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Hello everyone, Very excited about my new 2015 Silverado already lifted 6" with 35's, a push bar, and running boards. I'm looking for a decent exhaust that will sound mean! Will it void my warranty? Any recommendations? is there any that work better then others I've read about v-4 mode sounding bad. Have any exhaust makers overcome it? I'm also interested in adding a Sub enclosure, and amp to my my link 8" factory stereo with bose speakers in the doors. Has anyone had any experience upgrading this factory stereo yet? I see a enclosure with 2 10" subs on Crutchfeild for like $1199 ugh, then the amp they recommend is a kicker 1600 like $800 more. I'm almost willing to bite the bullet and do it, but if i'm going to spend that much it better be very impressive! THoughts with upgrading the factory my link system? currently it just seems like not enough sound comes from the back and the speakers in the front doors get very over worked trying to carry all the bass. Look forward to chatting Bill
