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Found 22 results

  1. If you’ve emailed us about custom BCM work in the past it was likely, that at the time we just simply couldn’t take it. These units take an immense amount of time to build just a single unit for one vehicle and in the case of the truck platforms there could literally be thousands of build combinations we would have to account AND the big one… TEST FOR. Even with our recent efficiency upgrades full custom units still require a ton of dedicated time and it was hard to price them at a rate that was appropriate but still palpable. A few years ago we started compiling a list of the most common modifications we were getting requests for and we noticed a pattern; a lot of people were asking for variations of the same things. On top of that most customers seemed to be OK when asked if other certain features were included as well for a lower price point would they mind? The resounding answer was no they wouldn’t mind and when can we order it? It’s taken a few years to get there; but we are finally here now. Announcing our new WAMS Spec BCM programming! WAMS Spec BCM’s include our most requested modifications in one convenient, easy to order package and at a significantly lower price point; all with our new proprietary plug and play method that ELIMINATES the required trip to a dealer (or a high end scan tool) for a brake pedal position relearn after reinstallation! We think every K2 owner will really enjoy this but those of you with lighter content trucks are really going to love it. So enough with the build up, here are the included features for this item: · Remote Start Enabled (Customer will still need a remote start key fob to utilize it) · Remote Start Cycle time extended to 20 minutes per cycle · Factory Alarm/Theft Deterrent Added to base model trucks · Factory Heated seat support added for trucks that don’t have it (wiring required obviously) · Turn signal “Hyper Flash” Deleted · Turn Signal Bulb Outage Detection Deleted · Fog lamps remain on with High Beam · Fog lamps no longer disable Intellibeam · Fog lamps remain on with Intellibeam/Auto High Beam enabled (if equipped) · Tap to pass (turn signal activation) bumped up from 3 to 4 flashes · Windows down from key fob added (For 2014-2015) · Windows down from key fob changed to Driver and Passenger front Windows only · Window down from key fob changed to allow “Vent” setting (release key fob to stop window motion prior to complete lowering) · Driver (and passenger on utilities) window UP from key fob (hold lock to raise). Express up windows are required to make this work and currently the K2 Pickups only have one on the driver’s side. · Trucks with a 98MPH speed limiter the limiter is raised slightly to allow a stock truck (a Denali for example) to run a full quarter mile without hitting the speed limiter before the end of the quarter. Here you can see our final beta test on a complete base 2016 LS I apologize for the vertical video was just really happy to finally get done with the last combination for testing! Please also check out Phil Gamboa’s (@pgamboa) phenomenally detailed review here: So in closing all of you who have been asking when it would be ready… It’s here LOL Also BIG Thank you to everyone who participated in early alpha and beta testing this with us. In addition to purchasing several vehicles for this (the latest our 2018 Denali) we tested this on over 20 trucks/SUV’s of different build combinations before we were comfortable enough to start offering this to the public.
  2. I’m new to this so be gentle. 2015 Silverado 2500 has the white LED mirror lights that turn on with the cargo switch. How do I get them to come on in reverse? Can the dealer update bcm module and problem solved or am I out of luck? Also wondering about the remote roll down and up of the windows by the key remote
  3. Hoping someone will have a new suggestion or idea for our problem. We have a 2005 Tahoe 4WD 5.3 that we've had since 2008. It's been a great vehicle and has only needed normal maintenance type repairs until now. About a month ago we noticed the coolant fan would either continue running or it would kick on by itself through the night and kill the battery. My husband changed all the fan relays and even the coolant temp sensor. The high speed fan started kicking on as well, at odd times when it was definitely not overheating or under stress. The battery is a year old and our battery jumper shows it's still good and the alternator holds a charge. Tahoe then started missing bad and generally running real crappy. We took it to a mechanic and he said the ECM was very corroded so he cleaned and sealed it with dielectric grease. It ran perfectly for a week and then the fan started killing the battery again. We ordered a new ECM programmed for our VIN. It's Fall here and cool weather so we just pulled the middle fan relay to keep the fan from running so we could continue to drive it. While we were waiting for the ECM, the dash cluster started acting up intermittently. All gauges would stop working, power door locks stopped, windows locked and the DIC would start cycling through every error message. A day or 2 later it left me stranded at work when it wouldn't start, would turn over and run for a second and then immediately shut off. My husband installed the programmed ECM and we went through the relearn procedure. Tahoe started right up and ran great. Next morning the dash cluster lit nearly every error light and gauges stopped working again. I left the truck sitting for 3 days, not wanting to be left stranded somewhere again. During all this my husband has pulled and checked every fuse and relay and we don't have any blown. There are no obvious ground wire issues. Yesterday we decided to check for a Mega Fuse that I had read some GM trucks have. Couldn't find that fuse anywhere, I guess my 05 doesn't have one. But we realized that the fan had kicked on and killed the battery again. As soon as we attach the battery jumper the fan is running. So new ECM, new fan relays and temp sensor, no blown fuses and no obvious ground wire issues and we still can't get the fan to stop killing the battery and now the intermittent dash cluster issue. Yesterday we took it for a short drive and so far today no dash issues for the moment. We're thinking maybe it's the Body Control Module now. But it seems odd that the ECM and BCM would both go bad at the same time. And I don't think a new BCM is going to help the fan issue at all since it only controls the interior electronics. We plan to take it back to a mechanic or a dealer to see if they also suggest a BCM but not until the dash starts acting up again so they can actually see the issue. Sorry for the super long post but I didn't want to leave anything out. Any other suggestions or ideas at this point would be very welcome!
  4. What's the easiest way to tap into the turn signal(s)? I installed amber LEDs onto the side of my tool box/back rack with one functioning as a running light (tapped into 7 pin) and the others as turn signal(s) I had originally planned on splicing the turn signals at the harness but realized the green/yellow wires also send brake signal and therefore would light up the turn signal LED's anytime I hit the brakes. I referenced the BCM wiring diagram and tapped into the front turn signal wires. Turn Signal (Left) blue/white (F); yellow/blue ® + BCM under driver dash, brown 26 pin plug, pins 2, 1 Turn Signal (Right) green/purple (F); brown/green ® + BCM under driver dash, black 26 pin plug, pins 3, 4 All was fine for 2 weeks, running lights and turn signals worked perfectly. Today, when I turned the truck on and used a blinker, I got the dreaded "hyper flash" and DIC message indicating I had a front turn signal issue. I've pulled the wires from the BCM while I resolve the issue. My questions are as follows: 1) What/Where is the best place to tap into the turn signals. I'm only running 1 x 6" LED per side, I can't imagine the draw being that great, although from other threads, I know the BCM is a fickle beast. 2) Would installing a diode (Fogs/Highs - Reverse/Cargo) between BCM and the hot/"+" for the LED's help if the BCM is the best place? 3) OR: is the "hyper flash" issue something that could be resolved with load resistors which are the from all post issue research are design to eliminate this problem, traditionally in headlights where LED bulbs are swapped in. And of course, because every thread is worthless without pictures, here's the truck with the amber running lights on.
  5. Hi folks! Yesterday I was leaving home depot and my truck wouldn't start. I ended up jumping my truck and bought a new battery (3 years, 50k miles and the original battery seemed about right time to need replacement). I installed the new battery and noticed that my front passenger and rear passenger blinkers were not working. I ended up finding a blown right turn signal fuse and replaced it but am still having issues. Checked all other fuses in all 3 fuse panels and they are ok. When I started the truck I found out that my radio/ac/backup camera were not working as well and that the display constantly says service 4wd. Might also be other issues that I have not uncovered yet. When I connected the positive terminal I noticed a little spark but did not think anything of it. I've replaced batteries before and this seemed nothing out of the ordinary. After researching it seems like weird electrical issues all trace back to the BCM. I believe that the turn signals are controlled by the BCM as well, so this also points to it being the BCM. Does anyone know if a reset is possible for the BCM and if that might help my problem? Most of the BCM items I've found about resetting have to do with security system related issues. Can anyone confirm the correct way to perform a BCM reset? Kinda ticks me off that a simple battery replacement could cause other problems...very easy to engineer in circuit protection to sensitive electronics. Truck is 2014 Silverado crew cab, 4wd, 50k miles. All help is MUCH appreciated! Thanks!
  6. 2004 SUBURBAN Z71 I need some help. My suburban sometimes goes dead. It will go dead every day for a week, and then not again for a month. Right now, its doing it again. I have: Replaced the battery (twice) on a new battery < 1 week old. Had the alternator tested 3 times. Replaced a questionable looking harness connection on the alternator with a soldered in connector properly heat shrunk. Replaced the Instrument cluster about 6 months ago with a rebuild due to bad steppers. (not because of battery drain) but I mention it because its popped up before. Performed numerous parasitic draw tests and found a possible issue: Here's what I have found so far. My natural battery off state is 0.03A or 30mA. I have confirmed this with a matching truck I have where it has an off state draw of 22mA. They're within reason to each other so I consider that the normal state for my vehicle. I have caught what I feel to be the issue twice, where I have a draw of 0.22A or 220mA almost a 1/4 amp and solid. It doesn't happen every time though. I only luckily found this twice while testing. The only way I can get the draw to disappear when it comes up by itself is to pull TBC BATT. And I only know its happening because I have a meter in line with the battery while testing. I can simulate this same draw by doing the following: 1: Wait for the natural off state to settle in around 0.03A. This takes about a minute, first it starts off at 2.8A, then drops to 1.8, and so on as features are put to sleep after connecting the battery. 2: Pull the LBEC 1 Fuse. This makes the battery draw jump from the settled state of 30mA up to 190mA. 3: Reinsert LBEC 1 Fuse. This then jumps the battery draw all the way up to 220mA, which I consider to be the actual problem. The thing is it never drops back down. It just sits there indefinitely. 4: (to solve the issue) If I pull TBC BATT that instantly drops the draw back to the normal off state current, and when I reinsert TBC BATT the draw doesn't come back until I repeat the process above. Notes: A: when this happens, pulling any fuses in the cabin fuse panel does not drop the current. B: There is an audible click from a relay or something INSIDE the BCM under the dash. My other truck does this too, but I'm not sure what's on the aft side of that connection. I checked out some of the free wiring diagrams at autozone. Unfortunately they're not organized too well and I'm getting lost with them, that and once the diagram enters the BCM I'm not sure whats going on with the circuits after that. Anyone here have some insight to what to do? Like I said before, I have another identical truck (just not Z71) I can swap parts and pieces with to narrow it down. I will mention that on the other truck, if I do the steps above I get the same result BUT it eventually does settle down to 0.02A by itself where the Z71 does not. It just draws that 1/4 amp all day long (usually all night long). Here's a video of my test: https://photos.app.goo.gl/SBdFzXxGzgdzuzAR8 Here are the two offending circuits in the underhood fuse panel:
  7. I am currently sitting in front of boost autos High beam to spot mirror mod for the 2019+ HD trucks. This kit taps into the BCM using a relay and a diode to achieve the spot lights on while in drive. I'll attach a install link that shows the wire taps in the BCM. Although this kit sounds nice, I don't want my Task lights (spot lights) on whenever my high beams are on, but rather have the option to use the stock dash button to achieve my desired lighting while in drive. From what I've broke down I believe this to be a ground activated relay and could be done differently then tapping into the high beams. The kits relay is wired as follows: 30- red to fuse with a jumper to 30, 86-black, 85- red jumper from 30, 87- dual outputs with diode. Could anyone simplify this for me to where I can either just always have use of my mirror lights in drive or park, or what I need to wire/jump etc to achieve this? I feel like I'm over thinking this and there should be a simple answer that tricks the truck's mirror lights to believe they are still in park. Maybe a ground wire just tapped in or something???
  8. My 2015 Silverado 1500 4x4 crew cab has about 110000 miles on it. It just started having an issue that I cannot seem to fix. The engine stays running when I turn the key to the off position and remove it. The accessories turn off normally and the RAP seems to be working. Meaning the radio and things turn off when I open the door....this truck is all stuck with the exception of a light bar. I’ve already pulled the light bar fuse at the battery hookup to see if that had anything to do with it and it made no change. Any ideas? Thanks 64187634141__38D880EE-87ED-4441-B214-B90E348CB1F8.MOV
  9. This project took me about 2 hours total. Please see the attached PDF for more photos and project details. I also included links to where I purchased my supplies. I can't say thanks enough to Smoothbassman, his input gave me the confidence to tackle this project. I am really pleased with how it turned out. FOOTWELL LEDS.pdf
  10. How's it going folks! I have an 06 Sierra in which it seems I have a bad Body Control Module. I started it up this morning and was surprised to see my ABS, Airbag, Charging system light on. Also no power locks, windows radio etc. I initially thought it may be the ignition switch as I had similar issues in my 04 Duramax and that was the fix, but nope. But to get to the point, I plan on obtaining my BCM through a junkyard and to install and relearn myself. I am wondering if my odometer reading will change when I put in the new BCM. I have heard conflicting statements that the mileage is stored in the BCM or the Instrument Panel Cluster. I'm not really concerned with the mileage being higher on the new BCM as I plan on driving this truck to the ground, but I don't really care for committing a felony if its lower.
  11. Hello everyone. I purchased a complete set of LED bulbs to replace all the stock bulbs for my 2012 GMC Sierra 2500 HD. In addition, I upgraded the tail lights and the head light assemblies as well to house these new bulbs. I'm very happy with the complete change-over except for the hyper flash issue I'm having with the new LED turn signals. Originally, I thought I could just replace the original flasher for an LED flasher that doesn't monitor the load on the circuit and therefore operates normally with the light-loaded LED upgrade. Turns out that the 2012 doesn't have a flasher and it's the BCM that controls the turn signal lights. From what I've researched, it appears that the BCM can be programmed to allow the use of LED's by changing the configuration of the BCM to a "cab/chassis" setup where the vehicle would accept the LED tail lights. I'm guessing that with changing everything including front turn signal bulbs to LED, the BCM reprogram to "cab/chassis" will not fix my issue because I've changed the front turn signals to LED as well. The other option I've researched is installing load resistors for every LED bulb. That seems a bit outrageous and hacking into the original wiring harness is not what I'd prefer as it makes it more susceptible to malfunction, corrosion, etc. not to mention the heat these resistors tend to give off, if installed improperly, can begin causing a whole other bundle of issues. So my question is, will the BCM reprogram resolve the hyper flash issue? Depending where you are but most dealers will charge $120 - $200 for the 3 minutes it takes to plug in but if it fixes the issue, I'd rather go that route instead of hacking my wiring harness. Thanks in advance for any help!
  12. Took my 2017 silverado 2500HD to chevy to have them reprogram my BCM. (truck came from canada and you cant turn off the light unless your in park! Safety thing canada does) But, the service tech said he cant SWITCH OUT my BCM because it's Vin'ed to the vehicle which I understand, but I wanted him to reprogram it which he said he can't do!? Does anyone know if this is true or how I can get this done?
  13. Is there anyone out there who knows how to reflash the BCM to use LEDS in a 2015 Silverado? I hate the resistors!!! thanks
  14. So.....Im looking to buy a new optic for some double duty action. I need an scope that can function on both my BCM ar15 AND my Remington 700 chambered in 7mm rem mag for some distance shooting out to 500 yards or so. I'm interested in either the Vortex Viper or the Vortex Diamondback (killer warranty). I realize there may be a need for 2 sets of scope mounts in order to fit the two rifles but that's not an issue for me. Which model and configuration do you think is best for my application? Thanks!
  15. I have a 2003 Chevrolet Silverado which runs great but the power windows, locks,keyless entry, heater motor and a lot of the guages don't work. It is also saying "service airbags, service 4 wheel drive ". I am thinking this is the BCM or mostly the BCM but I would like some advice from those more experienced. I have checked all the fuses and relays which all seem fine. Thanks
  16. So, I already asked a somewhat similar question involving the same install but this is focused on another subject. Is it possible to use OEM switches of this gen truck but wired as if they were universal mainly referring to bypassing/not wiring it to the BCM? I was thinking of using the OEM switch for the mirror control of an LT/LTZ trim for an '08 Silverado WT, is this possible?, With all the deal about everything needing to go to the BCM, can the switch function properly without that?, let's say just hook up 12v+, ground, the mirror glass' wires and will it work? Would this be possible with the 2014+ switch, putting aside the whole wiring harness, running it to the BCM deal, just using the switches as if they were universal (12v+,gnd,load)? Thanks.
  17. Hey guys, First time poster hopefully not breaking any rules. I have a few questions relating to vats and the bcm. Im swapping a lq9 from a 2002 escalade into a 2001 silverado that has a l31 in it My questions are: 1)Can i just swap the pcm from escalade into the silverado without activating the vats?(both has the 0411 pcm) 2)Or do i have to swap both the pcm and bcm so that the vin matches on both modules? is this even an option? 3)what are the things that the pcm checks for when deciding if it is going to pass vats or not. Im asking all of this because hptuners is out of the question rightnow, nobody has it where i live. Thanks in advance
  18. I just had the CCM and BCM replaced on my 2018 Sierra, 1500. 10,000 easy miles. Freak thing, traveling on the interstate, gauges started flipping back and forth, forward drive went out, all alarm messages on the dash: trailer brake, emergency brake, etc. Turned truck off, waited 10 minutes, restarted and could limp off the interstate, with very limited drive train, to a truck stop. Engine would start and run and this went on for a couple hours. Finally the truck would not start, battery was fine. Needed a tow to get it back to the dealership. BCM was very difficult to get, took about 2 weeks. Truck was out of service for 18 days. Cautiously optimistic it's okay now. Anyone have a similar experience?
  19. Hey All, Hoping you guys can point me in the right direction. I have a 2014 Silverado that has recently lost the passenger side low beam. The headlights will turn on when starting the truck and then flicker and the passenger side goes out within about 10 seconds. The driver's side continues to operate as normal and the high beams also operate as normal. If I turn on the headlight switch with the truck not running the headlights will both stay on. Once the truck starts the passenger bulb shuts off. I had this in to the dealer since it was looking like a BCM issue and I have no way of testing or programming a new BCM. They diagnosed and said the BCM was bad. Essentially they replaced the BCM with no results and they replaced the underhood fuse panel with no results. They said when the light quits they are not getting power out of the BCM for that headlight. So it is either a BCM input or something in the BCM. They did find a code (after performing the "repairs") and that code was a "short to ground" code. They did not give me the code number. Has anyone had this? Right now this is the only issue. I've read about ground issues and will check those on Saturday but I am not experiencing any other electrical issues so I am doubting I have a dash ground issue. I appreciate any help you all can give. Thanks, Derek
  20. Long time listener first time caller.. hoping to get some input on here possibly. 2008 Tahoe 4.8 with factory remote start. Remote start will not start the vehicle after it has been sitting any period of time. It will set off the CEL light but inserting the key and turning the truck on immediately clears it. It will only work immediately after shutting the vehicle down. Took it to an independent shop this week and they are saying it’s likely a BCM issue. In reading several forums I’ve seen the RCDLR cited as the culprit on these issues. I remember seeing something about possibly pulling a fuse to reset the RCDLR,is that possible to aid in diagnosing the issue? Thanks in advance!
  21. I have a 2007 GMC Sierra with a Duramax LBZ. My fog lights will not come on with the push button. I have checked all the relevant fuses. I removed the under hood relay and jumped from 30 to 87 and both fog lights come on but the indicator on the button does not. One of the other terminals (85 or 86) has full voltage on it. The other has around 10 volts. I read that the BCM (body control module) supplies a ground to this relay. Aside from replacing the BCM, does anyone have helpful advice? Thanks in advance
  22. Has anyone had any issues with their 08 silverado 1500 shorting out? I don't know if its a short, ground issue or a bad body control module. My issue only happens when I am driving over 60mph. Intermittently when hitting the blinkers or the brakes the electrical system freaks out. Gauges start going crazy, radio goes out, door locks lock and unlock over and over, airbag light comes on, abs light. Seems to be happening more and more frequently. The other day it through it into 4 low and totally died on me. Took positive lead off battery put back on fired up with no problems. I just don't want to spend money on one thing and it not being that then another and another. Wondering if anyone knows what this could be. I have no aftermarket electronics. I recorded it happening and put it on YouTube. Here is the video link
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