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Showing results for tags 'blower motor'.
Found 9 results
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Has anyone heard of a electrical fire in the dash of their 2019 Chevrolet Silverado. Had my High Country one month with 1012 miles on it when the fire happened. The ac blower motor melted and burned all the wires in the dash. Nothing like leaving a restaurant and seeing your new truck full of smoke and flames on the windshield.
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Please help!, my blower motor turns on for 2 seconds and shuts off, tried new blower motor, climate control panel unhooked battery etc and still nothing. Called to get a resistor but they said it is non serviceable. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! -
hi everyone, ive looked high and low with no luck, so apologies of this is directly cited somewhere. The plastic grooves/housing where the blower motor twists into place under the glove box, are brittle and broken. Therefore, my blower fan will not stay in place. Is that plastic housing or assembly core sold as a stand alone part? Trying to figure out a way to get the blower motor secured without duct tape or something else. thanks!
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Hello GM lovers, I’m back again, with hat in hand, asking for help. Recently, I charged my a/c system back into the proper amount of coolant. Now living in the Desert, “cool” air is considered about 80 degrees on a 110 degree day. So all was fine while running the air. One day the blower motor decided it was done working. After schematic searching, I thought I would try the climate control module. That was not the issue. Then I optested the blower motor itself, and voila, it worked, so that lead me to belive it was the resistor. I changed the resistor, and had to rewire the harness, and blew the fuse. Changed the fuse, blower works. Air compressor kicks on, and I have cold freon going into the condensor. However, I am getting 100 degree air out of the vents. Can anyone help? If I have forgotten something that I may not know of (because I may not know of it) please educate me
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Hello GM lovers, I’m back again, with hat in hand, asking for help. Recently, I charged my a/c system back into the proper amount of coolant. Now living in the Desert, “cool” air is considered about 80 degrees on a 110 degree day. So all was fine while running the air. One day the blower motor decided it was done working. After schematic searching, I thought I would try the climate control module. That was not the issue. Then I optested the blower motor itself, and voila, it worked, so that lead me to belive it was the resistor. I changed the resistor, and had to rewire the harness, and blew the fuse. Changed the fuse, blower works. Air compressor kicks on, and I have cold freon going into the condensor. However, I am getting 100 degree air out of the vents. Can anyone help? If I have forgotten something that I may not know of (because I may not know of it) please educate me.
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So I’ve got a 95 Chevrolet c1500 pickup. I just put a new engine in it like two months ago. I have been trying to get the ac working since it’s over 100 degrees where I live. I bypassed the pressure clutch switch with paper clip and the clutch kicked on. So I got get a new switch thinking that will fix it with a can of Freon. Only used one can. While I was putting the Freon in the clutch started turning but it didn’t stay turning. It would cut on and off repeatedly. So I go pull the ac relay fuse out from under the hood and thinking I might have a bad relay. I did the paper clip thing again but I didn’t turn off the truck so it made a small spark and the clutch stopped turning all together. So I went in the truck and turned the fan and ac off. I found out that since the spark when I turn the fan on it automatically turns the ac off. And the there isn’t hardly any air flow coming out of vents but you can hear the fan cut on. If the fan is off the ac is on and the clutch is short cycling but will not stay on when I turn the fan on. I need helppppp. Did I short out the blower motor relay or what?
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Hello! I have a 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 and recently took it into the shop as I was having windshield wiper issues and air vent issues for heat and A/C. Both of which are kind of a big deal especially being December and never knowing what the weather will be.The windshield wipers currently only work on the highest speed, sometimes they will stutter very slow on other speeds, but usually won't work at all on anything other than the highest speed. The shop I went to told me it was the wiper motor and it was weak. Then, I have also been having issues with the air vents not always working. I never know what I am going to get with this when I start the truck up. Sometimes I will start it and get absolutely nothing out of the vents on any speed I put the heat or A/C at. Sometimes they work as they should on any of the speeds I set it at. I've been on trips where I start the truck up and don't get anything.. then hours/miles later air starts blowing out of them on the speed setting they're on. Or trips where I don't get any air to blow out of them at all. I have tried reading as much as I can on this and have been told it could be the vents sticking and not opening up as they should. I was told by the shop that the blower motor is not working and there's bearing tension inside the motor that seizes up in colder temperatures. Well, this vent issue has happened to me in both the dead of summer and the coldest part of winter where it won't blow the heat or the A/C. So I am not completely convinced that it's the bearings getting cold and seizing up. Either way, I am stuck on both of these issues and have a hard time wrapping my head around it being both motors (wiper and blower vent) going out at similar times when the truck is only 5 years old. Just wanted to get some input on what others have experienced on either or both issues. Thanks! -
Hi guys, So, I recently had to replace the heater's blower motor in my 99 GMC Jimmy. In order to remove the blower motor, I had to take out the Battery, ECM, and Coolant Reservoir. After finishing up and reconnecting everything, I tried to start the truck to check if the blower motor worked (it does, but only has one speed now). When I tried to start the truck, I got one tick (as if the battery wasn't connected well), but then all the lights turned off and I couldn't turn the key back or remove it. I'm unsure of how to proceed here.
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I had a strange problem with my '03 GMC Sierra but was able to figure it out and thought I'd post a summary in case someone else can benefit from it. The symptoms were random and odd. The ABS/Brake dash lights would come on every couple weeks and the chime would go off a million times, then started happening more often and finally started happening when I'd turn the key to the "on" position before starting the engine. I figured it had something to do with the ABS module maybe and would look into it, except that when it got really bad it was at the same time my A/C blower and electric windows wouldn't work. AND, the transmission would go into "limp mode" and stay in third gear. I figured it had to be related since it all started going bad within one day, then the truck wouldn't start at all, luckily in front of my house. I suspected the ignition switch since that's a place where multiple components are powered. I grabbed a good used switch (I work at a wrecking yard) and swapped it out and that didn't help so I checked power to the switch. One wire was hot going to the switch but when I rotated the wheel to acc and on positions only a ocuple wires lit up out of eight! Good switch but power not being distributed. Turns out that there's two power wires that go to the switch, in my case both red wires (some schematics show red and red/wht) and the other red wire was dead. I checked it at the fuse box and it had power, probed the wire from the fuse box to as far as I could toward the fire wall and had power, then started at the switch and probed the wire past the big connector under the dash as far back to the firewall as I could and it was good (continuity test). So I decided I had a bad power wire at the firewall somewhere. In my book this is weird, I've never had something like that happen before, but the bad wire was buried in the wire loom so much that I decided to cut the wire at both ends and solder a new "patch" in. Everything worked! The A/C and windows have worked perfectly for three weeks and the transmission never showed a problem again. The only disappointment has been the ABS/Brake lights lighting up once in the past three weeks. Not sure what to think about that yet. Sorry for the long explanation but I think it's all important. Hopefully no one else ever has this problem... Dan
