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I made an account just to post the fix for this, couldn't find it anywhere.... Your mileage may vary but this is what worked for me. After having my alarm go off continuously with the hood ajar message I unplugged the hood latch sensor to fix the issue but in doing so I lost my factory remote start, not an big deal during the summer but now that its 20 degrees out its an issue. I dislike spending $100-$200 to replace a part that works fine because the $1 electrical switch integrated into it broke. The BCM seems to use logic on that pin other than high/low so the fix isn't as simple as twist the wires together. I ended up cutting the sensor/switch pigtail and wiring in a 10k ohm potentiometer and turning it till it worked. For my truck that was ~2100 ohms. The truck harness only utilizes two wires of the three pin connector and one of them is a ground. Solder in the 2100 ohm resistor in between the red and black wires as shown attached (don't forget to put the shrink tube on before) plug it in and the hood switch will be bypassed in the "hood closed" position. keep in mind that you can now remote start with the hood open and peoples hands in there. Use at your own risk. 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 4x4 5.3L
I have a 2010 Silverado 1500 and i am not able to start it up. I just replaced the fuel pump, but it still wont start up. There is an icon with a car and a lock so i assume its the passlock system. How do I reset it or bypass it(preferably resetting it).
Hey guys, I'm new to this forum and new to owning my first chevy truck (with a small problem - hopefully!) and I wanted to post this here for some help/advice/guidance. I have done some research on this problem and only found one other post on the internet with this problem so it seems like a rare one! Unfortunately, the post I found died once the OP stopped responding. So here is the story and the problem:. As of yesterday, I am the new owner of my first Chevy truck! It's a: 1989 GMC Sierra 2500 with a TBI 350 It's completely stock and runs great! (while the EST Bypass wire is connected) No check engine light Got it for $500 There is a problem... The truck does not pass CA smog testing Smog Visual: Passed Smog Emissions/sniffer: Passed Smog Functional test: Failed The reason it failed (as printed on the smog failure report) is: Ignition timing is not readable. Also vehicle will not run when single wire tan/black connector is disconnected which is procedure for checking timing. This was my first attempt at resolving the problem: Started the engine and warmed it up Disconnected the tan/black EST bypass connector WHILE the engine was running and the engine went from idling smoothly to a idling rough. Using a timing light: I set the timing to 0 degrees. The engine then began to run smoothly! I reconnected the EST bypass connector. (This was done while the engine was still running - The engine continued to run smoothly.) I shut the engine off I started the engine and it ran perfectly fine. (I thought I had resolved the issue!) Just to double check: I shut the engine off then I disconnected the EST bypass connector again. I tried to start the engine Results: Engine cranks over but does not start After realizing the engine was not going to start: I reconnected the EST bypass connector. The engine took quite a bit of cranking before it started. Once started, it ran fine. Basically I am able to replicate the exact same same problem that the smog shop came across. Based on my research, the correct procedure to check the timing is: Warm up engine Shut off engine Disconnect EST bypass wire Start engine (Cannot get past this step...) Set timing to 0 Shut off engine Reconnect EST bypass wire I'm guessing this is the procedure the smog shop is trying to follow so seems I need to get this to work for them so the smog test passes. I hope this is enough details for everyone. Please let me know if you have any ideas guys. Thanks for the help in advance!