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Showing results for tags 'chevy 1500'.
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07/12/2020 Hey everyone, I'm new to the game. I understand tire sizing but not fitment regarding clearances with aftermarket wheels. Looking for some advice. I know that I would like an aggressive MT in 33's. I'd like to get new wheels because I absolutely hate the stock polished aluminum 18's I have right now. I'd like to get 289-295/70/18's but I'm not sure if that would fit with wheels with a -24mm offset and still have enough clearance in the wheel wells to turn completely without rubbing. My plan is to get the MotoFab 3 inch front leveling kit (strut spacer) before I go and by wheels and tires. If you've done something similar, I'd love to hear form you. If you know of a good way that I could figure this out without buying everything first to test it, that would be great too. Thanks in advance! 07/13/2020 Quick update: I've spoken with a friend of a friend who knows WAY more than myself about lifting trucks and the fitment of aftermarket wheels and tires. First off, he suggested that I don't put in a 3 inch strut spacer kit. His reasoning was that I'd be replacing ball joints, CV shafts, wheel bearings, ect. His rational was that the spacer would through the angles off too much and put excessive wear on many parts. He also said I could go through and change out the upper control arms to attempt to correct the angles a bit (at that point, I'm thinking, well if I'm going to go that far I might as well just wait and buy the real lift kit that I want). Another point he brought up is that if I were to put the 3 inch spacers in, it may through the alignment off so much that there wouldn't be enough adjustment in the stock tie rods to make the proper adjustments needed to complete the alignment. So now I'm just in the process of re-evaluating what I want to do. Stand by for another update soon to come.
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- what will fit?
- 2017 silverado ltz z71
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Hello, This is a 1999 Chevy Silverado 5.3l, 4wd push button style, 4L60E transmission, 153k. I have a green fluid leak (T-case fluid) coming from the front axel input shaft seal, drivers side. It obviously gets thrown around all over surrounding components when driven in current condition. The leak will accumulate about 2 or 3 drips on the ground overnight. It's been going on for a good while judging by the amount of fluid caked on everything. I've only driven approximately 50 miles since i noticed issue, all in 2wd. My questions are whether or not i risk significant damage to the case if ONLY driven in 2wd while also adding fluid as needed? Also, is there an "inner" seal in the transfer case that will be exposed when drive shaft is removed from t-case? If so, what is the responsibility of "inner" seal and is there a reason it should also be replaced simultaneously? When i'm in that deep i'd rather do whatever is necessary and logical. Thanks for any help with stated questions and I also love to hear any related advice or experience! Taking it to a shop is not an option as I have little money and major trust issues. Trust issues stemming from several bad experiences in the past and most recently, pertaining to this vehicle. I bought this truck for $6,500, everything is in VERY good shape, recently had a 90k motor installed @ 150k (i purchased it at 152.5k) as a private party transaction from the auto shop owner who installed the second motor. Turns out recently installed engine either has a cracked head or head gasket as the black light test reveals coolant coming from exhaust among other confirmations... AAAGGGHH. That's a completely different story that's being dealt with but figured i'd share my reasons for NOT TAKING IT TO ANYONE mentality. Auto salesmen/mechanics can be total sleezeballs. From now on it's my way or the highway, to my own dismay haha.
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