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Found 8 results

  1. If i buy a moto fab 2 inch leveling disk, would i have to replace my upper control arms with aftermarket ones? Ive seen two different answers from american trucks.com and now im confused...ive never put a leveling kit on any of my trucks so im not sure exactly what im getting into and all what it entails (2017 Silverado 1500) are they recommended but not required? Id rather not snap a ball joint and screw my truck up....TIA
  2. Hello everyone, new to the forum, been lurking for a while finally decided to make an account. I have a 2017 Silverado LT Z71 with the stamped steel UCA's. I ordered the ReadyLift UCA/ 2.25" level kit because I've read so much on the issues with the factory control arms that I wanted to level my truck the right way (although it meant costing me an arm and a leg). Today I took the truck to my buddy shop, put the truck on the lift, swapped out the driver side control arm and well to us it looks like the shaft of the ball joint doesn't go in far enough into the knuckle. Another guy that works at the shop came by and thought the same thing. As if the shaft is thicker than the factory one and doent go in far enough. Not sure if thats how it is supposed to be or what but we decided to take it off and just see what ready lift says. Here are a few pictures, any info is appreciated especially if there is anyone out there running the control arms. Thanks in advance.
  3. I have heard that a lot of guys have had issues with the ball joints with the Rough country 2" leveling blocks. I have a 2018 silverado 1500 with stamped control arms. I just put on the 2" Rough country leveling blocks. Has anyone replaced the stock stamped control arms? It would be nice to service them if needed I was looking at the rough country but they say its not for the stamped control arms. Someone mentioned moog control arms. I also saw readylift has control arms for the stamped control arms. Any suggestions would be great
  4. Stock aluminum upper control arms and rancho coil over shocks off of my 2015 z71 sierra. Make me an offer. Would like to sell together but will sell shocks and arms separately. They have 25,000 miles on them.
  5. Hello all, Long time reader, but just registered as I can't seem to find the answer to this questions. I have a 2014 Silverado Crew Cab (short box) 4x4. The truck has aluminum upper and lower control arms. I need to put new new ball joints on the truck, and I am having trouble determining which parts are going to fit / work best for this repair. I know that the upper control arms come as a complete unit with the new ball joint. However, I am starting to think that the aluminum lower control arms are going to require a complete replacement as well (as opposed to just pressing out the ball joint and pressing in the new one). Can someone confirm that this is the case? No one has the Aluminum upper control arms in stock, and I am wondering if I will run into problems simply replacing the aluminum control arms (upper and lower) with steel control arms? The truck has a 3" front leveling kit that was on the truck when I purchased it. I suspect that ball joints will likely need to be replaced every few years, and I don't really want to have to replace an entire lower control arm every time this happens. However, I don't know if there is a benefit to keeping the aluminum control arms? Will this cause any other issues with the truck's suspension, etc.???
  6. Hello GMers! These weekend I had to replace the 4 MOOG control arms that I had installed last June as the rubber bushings were really cracked and fraying after only 9 months. I had purchased them thru Summit Racing and they warrantied all four and sent out new ones. However when I inspected them, all of the ball joints boots had holes/slits. Luckily I live 15 minutes away from Summit warehouse and they swapped them out yet we went through 8 boxes to get good ones as many of BJ boots were torn straight out of the new unopened MOOG boxes. The service reps and I were really surprised as they are usually always top notch. The lower arms had the new intregal boots which seem to be a thinner rubber compared to old style and upper arms had the double bump beehive boots. With that, always double/triple check your BJ boots regards of brand! Since I was already working on the front end, I replaced both axles seals as they leaked, replaced CV axles as one had a torn boot and grease was getting flung everywhere and also the hubs even though they seemed to be good. The seals were ACDelco 22761722 and they came out easliy using a slide hammer (rented from AutoZone). I purchased two brands of CV axles (NAPA MaxDrive and A1Cardone) both were new and the heavy duty version and were borh the exact same meaning NAPA is rebranded A1Cardone. I called Cardone to inquire difference between regular & HD versions a the only difference is the HD a thermoplastic outer boots and thicker bands; thats it but worth it due to a small cost difference Top shaft is out of NAPA box and Cardone the bottom. As for the bearing hubs assemblies, I ended up going with Timken as they are Made in USA and are known for highly dependable and quality bearings. To my surprise as I remove the stock hubs, the OEM were Timken brand as seen on the wheel sensor and look identical to the new ones. Question: are your hub assemblies Timken as well? My '07 GMC 1500 Classic was made in Canada and I'm wondering if that matter compared to GM made in US ir Mexico. Does anyone know if we need to preload the control arms prior to torquing them to spec? None of the instructions in the boxes or online mentioned preloading which is getfing the arms bolts snug then jacking them up to the level/angle where they normal are at. I found that type if info on car sites and did the assembly that way as thay could have been why my arm bushing were torn up in less than 9 months. Sidenote, I fillled up my front diff with Royal Purple 75w90 gear oil and slightly over-filled as front was jacked up and in driveway. This caused me to freak out as the new seals were seeping out a bit but have now stopped. Also, I was able to rent all the unique tools I didnt have from AutoZone like the 200ft lb torque wrench (high for axle nuts), slide hammer (for seals n didnt damage axle housings at all), torsion bar unloader and front end axles sockets kit for the 36mm axle nut. Now this rig is ready for another 150k+ miles....
  7. Interested in any prerunner-like suspension upgrades. Let me know what you have. Thanks!
  8. I’m New to the forum, and I have been looking for a day or two but can’t find anything on the topic of if control arms from a 2001-2007 2500 will fit on a 2000, and if not what the best recommendation would be?
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