Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'control arms'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • GM-Trucks.com Original News & Product Reviews
    • General Motors Product and Industry News
    • The GM-Trucks.com Garage - Vehicle Testing & Product Reviews
    • The Newsroom Archive
    • The Garage Archive
  • Future Vehicle Discussion
    • Silverado / Sierra & Future Vehicle Speculation & Spy Shots
    • 2022 GMC HUMMER EV Electric Pickup
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 2019+ T1XX Platform
    • 2019 / 2020 Silverado & Sierra
    • 2020 Silverado HD & Sierra HD (2500/3500)
    • 2021 Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL & Escalade
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 2014-2019 K2XX Platform
    • 2014 - 2018 Silverado & Sierra
    • 2015-2020 Suburban/Tahoe & Yukon/Yukon Denali
    • 2015-2019 Silverado HD & Sierra HD (2500/3500)
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 1999-2006 GMT800 & 2007-2013 GMT900 Platforms
    • 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500
    • 2000-2014 Silverado & Sierra HD
  • Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
    • 2015-2020 Colorado & Canyon
    • 2005-2012 Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
  • Midsize Crossover - 2017-2020 C1XX Platform
    • 2017-2020 Traverse, Acadia, Enclave & XT5
    • 2019 - 2020 Blazer
  • Classic Chevrolet / GMC Pickup Trucks
    • 1988-1999 Chevrolet & GMC C/K GMT400 Platform
    • 1973-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Square Body / Rounded Line Pickups
    • 1967-1972 Chevrolet & GMC Glamour / Action Line Pickups
    • 1960-1966 Chevrolet C/K/Apache & GMC 1000-3000 Pickups
    • 1982-2005 Chevrolet S-10/Blazer & GMC S15/Sonoma/Jimmy
    • 1969-1994 Chevrolet K5 Blazer & GMC Fullsize Jimmy
  • Marketplace
    • For Sale/Wanted
    • Member & Vendor Rating Forum
    • Member Product Reviews
  • GM-Trucks.com is supported by
    • Adam's Premium Car Care
    • Agri-Cover
    • Arnott Air Suspension
    • Black Bear Performance
    • GMPartsDirect.com
    • UPR Products
    • Synthetic Advantage
  • The Lounge
    • Off-Topic
    • Automotive Industry & Market Discussion
    • New Member Introductions
    • Meetups, Events, & Gatherings
    • GM-Trucks.com Comment Box
  • Hobbies & Lifestyle
  • Technical & Advanced
  • Chevrolet, GMC, Buick & Cadillac Crossovers
  • Commercial Vehicles
  • Black Truck Club's Topics
  • Texas Owner's Group's Topics
  • California Owner's Group's Topics
  • New England Owner's Group's Topics
  • Midwest Owner's Group's Topics
  • South Carolina Silverado Owners's Topics
  • Canadian Owners Club's Topics
  • SCUBA divers of GM-Trucks's Scuba Talk
  • Red Truck Club's Topics
  • Idaho Sierra & Silverado Owners Club's Idaho
  • Colorado Trucks's Exhaust Setups
  • Colorado Trucks's Pics of trucks
  • SEO Paint's seo color ordered
  • NorthSky Blue Club's NorthSky Blue Metallic
  • NorthSky Blue Club's Pics
  • diesel 3.0's Topics

Calendars

  • Events
  • Birthdays
  • Texas Owner's Group's Events
  • California Owner's Group's Events
  • Midwest Owner's Group's Events
  • Red Truck Club's Events

Categories

  • Articles
  • News
  • Reviews
    • Project Sierra
  • Resources

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


MSN


Website URL


Yahoo


Skype


Facebook


Twitter


Name


Location


Interests


Drives

Found 7 results

  1. Hello everyone, new to the forum, been lurking for a while finally decided to make an account. I have a 2017 Silverado LT Z71 with the stamped steel UCA's. I ordered the ReadyLift UCA/ 2.25" level kit because I've read so much on the issues with the factory control arms that I wanted to level my truck the right way (although it meant costing me an arm and a leg). Today I took the truck to my buddy shop, put the truck on the lift, swapped out the driver side control arm and well to us it looks like the shaft of the ball joint doesn't go in far enough into the knuckle. Another guy that works at the shop came by and thought the same thing. As if the shaft is thicker than the factory one and doent go in far enough. Not sure if thats how it is supposed to be or what but we decided to take it off and just see what ready lift says. Here are a few pictures, any info is appreciated especially if there is anyone out there running the control arms. Thanks in advance.
  2. I have heard that a lot of guys have had issues with the ball joints with the Rough country 2" leveling blocks. I have a 2018 silverado 1500 with stamped control arms. I just put on the 2" Rough country leveling blocks. Has anyone replaced the stock stamped control arms? It would be nice to service them if needed I was looking at the rough country but they say its not for the stamped control arms. Someone mentioned moog control arms. I also saw readylift has control arms for the stamped control arms. Any suggestions would be great
  3. Stock aluminum upper control arms and rancho coil over shocks off of my 2015 z71 sierra. Make me an offer. Would like to sell together but will sell shocks and arms separately. They have 25,000 miles on them.
  4. Hello all, Long time reader, but just registered as I can't seem to find the answer to this questions. I have a 2014 Silverado Crew Cab (short box) 4x4. The truck has aluminum upper and lower control arms. I need to put new new ball joints on the truck, and I am having trouble determining which parts are going to fit / work best for this repair. I know that the upper control arms come as a complete unit with the new ball joint. However, I am starting to think that the aluminum lower control arms are going to require a complete replacement as well (as opposed to just pressing out the ball joint and pressing in the new one). Can someone confirm that this is the case? No one has the Aluminum upper control arms in stock, and I am wondering if I will run into problems simply replacing the aluminum control arms (upper and lower) with steel control arms? The truck has a 3" front leveling kit that was on the truck when I purchased it. I suspect that ball joints will likely need to be replaced every few years, and I don't really want to have to replace an entire lower control arm every time this happens. However, I don't know if there is a benefit to keeping the aluminum control arms? Will this cause any other issues with the truck's suspension, etc.???
  5. Hello GMers! These weekend I had to replace the 4 MOOG control arms that I had installed last June as the rubber bushings were really cracked and fraying after only 9 months. I had purchased them thru Summit Racing and they warrantied all four and sent out new ones. However when I inspected them, all of the ball joints boots had holes/slits. Luckily I live 15 minutes away from Summit warehouse and they swapped them out yet we went through 8 boxes to get good ones as many of BJ boots were torn straight out of the new unopened MOOG boxes. The service reps and I were really surprised as they are usually always top notch. The lower arms had the new intregal boots which seem to be a thinner rubber compared to old style and upper arms had the double bump beehive boots. With that, always double/triple check your BJ boots regards of brand! Since I was already working on the front end, I replaced both axles seals as they leaked, replaced CV axles as one had a torn boot and grease was getting flung everywhere and also the hubs even though they seemed to be good. The seals were ACDelco 22761722 and they came out easliy using a slide hammer (rented from AutoZone). I purchased two brands of CV axles (NAPA MaxDrive and A1Cardone) both were new and the heavy duty version and were borh the exact same meaning NAPA is rebranded A1Cardone. I called Cardone to inquire difference between regular & HD versions a the only difference is the HD a thermoplastic outer boots and thicker bands; thats it but worth it due to a small cost difference Top shaft is out of NAPA box and Cardone the bottom. As for the bearing hubs assemblies, I ended up going with Timken as they are Made in USA and are known for highly dependable and quality bearings. To my surprise as I remove the stock hubs, the OEM were Timken brand as seen on the wheel sensor and look identical to the new ones. Question: are your hub assemblies Timken as well? My '07 GMC 1500 Classic was made in Canada and I'm wondering if that matter compared to GM made in US ir Mexico. Does anyone know if we need to preload the control arms prior to torquing them to spec? None of the instructions in the boxes or online mentioned preloading which is getfing the arms bolts snug then jacking them up to the level/angle where they normal are at. I found that type if info on car sites and did the assembly that way as thay could have been why my arm bushing were torn up in less than 9 months. Sidenote, I fillled up my front diff with Royal Purple 75w90 gear oil and slightly over-filled as front was jacked up and in driveway. This caused me to freak out as the new seals were seeping out a bit but have now stopped. Also, I was able to rent all the unique tools I didnt have from AutoZone like the 200ft lb torque wrench (high for axle nuts), slide hammer (for seals n didnt damage axle housings at all), torsion bar unloader and front end axles sockets kit for the 36mm axle nut. Now this rig is ready for another 150k+ miles....
  6. Interested in any prerunner-like suspension upgrades. Let me know what you have. Thanks!
  7. I’m New to the forum, and I have been looking for a day or two but can’t find anything on the topic of if control arms from a 2001-2007 2500 will fit on a 2000, and if not what the best recommendation would be?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.