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Drives

Found 8 results

  1. We have a 2016 Yukon 6.2L which developed a rattle at approximately 60k miles. Initially I believed the source of the rattle was a heat shield, but everything seems to be tight. It has been to the dealer twice and no progress has been made to resolve the issue. The first time they dismissed the problem and called it "normal" and the second time they believe it's a broken baffle weld in the muffler. What do you think? Thanks in advance Video with several angles from under the vehicle demonstrating the issue. The problem only surfaces when the vehicle inters v4 mode. Also, the rattle is so loud it is picked up by the Knock Sensors and it pulling timing. Scan performed with HP Tuners VCM Scanner.
  2. Hello, 2012 Silverado 4X4 Ext Cab LC9 with 101k miles. As the title states, I have a unique situation. The cab and bed are entirely off of my truck (T-bone damage), thus I thought this would be a good time to do a DOD delete as well as any other recommended upgrades or repairs WHILE THE CAB AND BED ARE OFF! I haven't looked at too many kits yet (Scoggin Dickeys, Texas Speed, WS6Store, etc) and still figuring what I need/don't need. Definitely would like to put in a mild performance cam if it isn't too much extra. I'm new to these trucks, so I don't know all the weak spots other than the DOD system. Basically, I'm interested in bulletproofing the system much like 6.0 powerstroke owners had to do. I just heard about the oil pickup o-ring. WTH! Wow GM.... Worth it to do this at the same time as the DOD probably. Something about a AFM plate in the oil pan? But I'm open to your input. What else? something about timing chain guides??? I vaguely remember something about a fuel system issue being pretty common as well? Sorry if I am all over the place. SO many questions right now. I just got the cab off yesterday and pretty much planning on ordering what I need by the end of this week Be doing all the work myself Thanks!
  3. Hey Guys, I have a 2010 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV with a 5.3L LMG and a 6L80 Trans (MYC) looking to drop in a 6.2L L9H. As far as I understand it is a direct swap. Would I run in to any issues or codes as far as the L9H not having AFM/DOD? I plan on using the 5.3L PCM and having it re flashed to work with the 6.2 Or do I look for a L94 that has FlexFuel, VVT, AFM like the LMG does?
  4. Hey all. So, my father's 2017 Silverado (base level cluster) shows if the truck is in 8 cyl or 4 cyl AFM mode in the DIC. However, I cannot seem to find any way to tell what AFM mode I am in on my 2020 Sierra 1500 with the base level cluster/DIC. Does anyone have any clue how you can tell what mode the truck is running in? The main reason I'm asking is because I want to get one of the Range AFM disablers, and I'd like to see, live, if it ever switches in to 4 cyl mode. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide
  5. New member here I have a 2006 GMC Envoy Denali 5.3L engine that has the displacement on demand system - switches off 4 cylinders under the right conditions to increase fuel economy. I bought it as a project vehicle, tuned it up, replaced the plugs and dumped the really nasty oil that was in it. The engine has 162,000 and clearly the previous owner didn't keep up on service but it is a very nice truck. Usually I do my own work but with too many projects and too little time I decided to take it to a reputable mechanic. End result, we've determined that my number 4 cylinder has inoperable valves. They've tested the selenoids for the DOD system and found them to be operable. Futhermore, I had them pull the push rod to see if it was bent or scored, it was neither. The DOD system is throwing confusion into the diagnosis for me. The mechanic is recommending we pull the head. Line of Questions #1 Is there something the mechanic may be missing with the DOD system that would get the valves working again. Can I go to non-DOD heads? Line of Questions #2 If I go with a new engine, can I get something with additional performance that doesn't have DOD? Will the computer only take a DOD engine? If so can the computer be switched so I can use any LSx engine? Retaining the 8% gain in fuel economy that Displacement on Demand gets me doesn't seem worth the limitation of choices in heads/engines. Please Help James Moore, Oklahoma
  6. New here just made an account to ask a few questions but I'll stick around for a little while. I have a 12 Silverado 5.3 LC9 114xxx miles. I had cylinder 7 throw a misfire code pulled plug and it was oil fouled. I'm getting the notorious litter noise. I don't know exactly how much oil it is consuming but I would guess at least 2 qts every 2-2500 miles. I guess my question is should I even worry about the lifters going out with that much oil lost and the cyl 7 plug fouling out? Or should I just save my money and put toward a new engine? I don't mind pulling the heads and putting lifters in but if it needs pistons anyway I guess I'm thinking what's the point.
  7. A few weeks ago my 2010 Silverado LC9 with 90,000 miles had a lifter collapse on number 6 and it destroyed the camshaft. I went with a Non-VVT delete kit with stage 2 cam from Texas-Speed. Everything is going well with install, but just a slight difference with the mounting bracket from the Camshaft sensor doesn't work anymore. For any whom have done this delete for 2010+ 5.3, do you just cut the wiring out and leave it hanging there? Or modify the bracket for the pigtail by grinding away parts of the bolt ear area, and cutting/bending other parts of it to make it fit? Or the last option is to buy GM P/N: 12627501 that appears to be the pre-2010 camshaft sensor mount. Just trying to see what most do, and proceed from there. Thanks for any input you provide.
  8. I recently did a dod delete on my 2007 suburban. 6.0 200,000 miles. I thought the problem was the afm lifters being that there was a tick at highway speeds. I only had a tick at highway speeds. If I drove on the street I would never get the noise. As soon as I held a steady speed on the highway I would get what sounds like a lifter tick. The dod delete work was done by a Preformance shop. I do not think that dod was the problem. If I hold the throttle steady at 2000rpm while in park I can get the tick to come on. After I let the engine idle about 2-3 minutes the tick goes away. As soon as I hold the rpms back up it will come back and repeat the process. No loss of power while this is happening and no other sounds. Oil pressure is about 10-15 at idle and close to 40 while on highway. I would greatly appreciate any help.
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