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Found 18 results

  1. At night every once in a while my passenger side LED DRL and DRL tail light wont come on. Does anyone know the issue of this and what needs to be fixed? I've searched all of the place and haven't found any good answers.
  2. I have a low beam out on my 2013 1500. I'd like to replace them with leds but I'm not sure which ones play well with the auto lights and drl stuff. Anyone have suggestions or reviews on leds that are on the current market?
  3. Both of the park lights/DRLs on my 2015 Suburban (138k miles) are only half light. As shown in the picture, specifically the outer 4 LEDs on each side. I grabbed this screenshot from a video posted on Youtube with minimal comments as to a fix other then replace by dealer and adding a ground... does anyone else have this problem or found a fix? I have checked the Fuses and relay and all seem to be okay. I also think it is a little bit strange that both sides are out at the same time... YouTube Video (not mine): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDAHWteRDeE
  4. I just saw a Tahoe LT on my way home from work using the LEDs as DRLs at full 100% brightness just like the LTZ models. Yes, I am sure it was a LT model and it looked totally stock even with the entry level honeycomb pattern grille. He was going the opposite way so I couldn't stop him to ask. Someone out there has figured it out! Does anyone have an update for this mod?
  5. 99 Silverado, right side DRL is not working. I replaced both bulbs with new LED ones, and STILL the right side doesn't work. Is this a relay or some sort of DRL module issue then?
  6. Zane Merva Executive Editor, GM-Trucks.com 9/18/18 As the few remaining snow piles melted away last spring, we wrote about our impressions installing the latest LED lights from Sylvania. The Cube-X and the company's new parabolic LED spot light bars. A few weeks later, we gave away a set of Cube X's to one lucky forum member, @Veee24 This summer RJ ( @Veee24) installed his new Cube-X lights and sent us an update. We asked him how he liked the lights and how the install went. He told us: We think the end result is pretty amazing. RJ's sick 1997 Chevy Silverado. Check out the photos above and below and let us know what you think about RJs ride and his Sylvania Cube-X LED lights.
  7. Drl disable 2015 silverado

    I have a 2015 silverado from Canada I bought headlight covers and tail light covers for the truck not realizing that the lights stay on all the time while in drive is there a way to disable the drls while in gear.. doesn't look very good with lights on under the covers.. no drl relay that I could find
  8. To all the GMC guys...I've got the fix! Firstly, just want to thank @spurshot for inspiring me to put this into motion. Ever since I saw the 14+ GMC's, I thought to myself hmm...I wonder if it's possible to make those bright DRL LED's run the same at night. I probably wouldn't have dived into this if it wasn't for Spurshot's How-To on the Fogs w/Highs as I used the same idea with this. So here it is, using the same 1N4004 diodes: BCM X4 (Black Connector) Pin 1 to Pin 7 Pin 2 goes to Pin 7 on BCM X5 (Brown Connector) See pictures below for the schematics. BEFORE & AFTER And yes...I'm putting in HID's this weekend. Just picked up a 2015 Denali CC 6.2L/8spd in exchange for my 2014 High Country and the mods are still in progress! Enjoy
  9. Last week I noticed when driving into the garage, that one of my DRL/low beam lights was out. I have a 2015 with the halogen lights, separate high beams. I first read some old posts on here about how to get at them. No problem, I bought a new set of H11 bulbs and went to replace them. I put the new bulb in the driver's side first since it is easier, the new bulb worked. (that old bulb still worked as well). Then I go yank the air box out to get at the passenger side. put new bulb in. After reassembling everything I tested it out by turning on my headlights, and lo and behold, this brand new bulb does not light up. After inspecting the old bulb, I cannot see any sign of it burning out either, no black, nothing broken inside the glass. So my question is, would there be anything I can easily check that would cause this if it is a wiring issue? I'm not terribly worried about it now since I do very little driving after dark and I will be taking my truck in for an inspection right before my 36 month warranty runs out in June. Just wondering if this has been encountered before. I don't want to make a habit of replacing bulbs only to find out they are not the problem. Replacing the passenger side bulb is not fun.
  10. This requires the use of a relay harness (which I recommend anyway) and a 4700uF capacitor Ok, When DRL's are active, you car is supplying the following signal to your driving lights: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ +12v _________________ Ground That's Correct, it 'Pulses' the current to lower the intensity of the light. This works perfectly for Filament bulbs, as you are simply heating a filament which produces the light. But when sent to the relay, it will cause the relay to latch and unlatch repeatedly which will cause flicker. HID's however, need a constant current flow to them, such as the following: _________________ +12v _________________ Ground Now, most people are over complicating things, by making the Fog's DRLs and such, but I don't want to fiddle around with the lights everytime I get in the car, so this is what needs to be done to be able to keep the Auto function of the headlights. We will, by the use of capacitors, turn the DRL's Pulsing current -_-_-_ into a smooth, constant flow -------- So, we aren't relocating the DRL's, we are simply going to use HID's as DRL's AND Driving lights. Perfect! This is exactly how most Audi's and BMW's function anyways. So, here is the miracle solution: Using a 4700uF (That's microfarad) capacitor (A pair should run you 4-5 bucks at most) we are smoothing out the Pulses and sending a constant supply to the Relay. This is called a smoothing or reservoir capacitor. What it does, is on a Positive pulse, it charges, and in between pulses it slowly discharges. The bigger the capacitor, the slower the discharge: Without Capacitor: With Capacitor: We can see after the capacitor, we have an almost linear voltage. How do we make this as linear as possible? By using a capacitor as big as the 4700uF. This keeps the relay latched so that it doesn't interrupt the current flow to the ballast.I do NOT recommended using this without a relay, you shouldn't put this in parallel with the ballast itself. And for when the driving lights go on, the constant +12v will simply keep the capacitor charged and this won't affect system performance as it basically will stay there fully charged until it can discharge. And when you cut power to the light, the capacitor will discharge quickly enough as to not allow the relay to flicker. The ballast see's it as the current beeing shutoff and not a pulsing current. So, all you need to do, it simply splice a capacitor between the +12V and GROUND wire leading to the Latching relay, such as my diagram below shows: Enjoy! Credit to mtlsportgt on mazda3forums.com
  11. DRL light in dash

    From the album random

    added this LED dash light to the DRL repair.
  12. Diode DRL 1996

    From the album random

    led headlamps allowed a much less robust diode. This one is 10A, no heatsink.
  13. Hey everyone! I'm new to this site and just got my 2017 Silverado LT 1500 last week. I did a search on this topic but came up empty. I love the headlights with the LED switchback strip on the LTZ, Z71, and High Country. I was wondering if anyone has tried or considered putting those on an LT package. Are the harnesses the same so it would be a simple plug-and-play or am I just having wishful thinking to think its that simple. If not plug-and-play, what kind of modifications would have to be done (or potential harness replaced) to make these lights work? Let me know your thought, concerns, or problems this upgrade may have. And if anyone has a picture of the wiring harness of the switchback LED strip headlight and could post it so we can compare the 2 to see if they are the same or even similar and what differences there are between the two headlights. Thanks in advance!
  14. 2015 GMC SERRIA 1500 i do not have the LED vesion of the headlights but if i can swap them out and the wiring i would be open too that too Im getting HID soon and i want to switch the low beam DLR to my parking lights or disabing it completly. So I wont have to hit a switch every time i get in and i wont be burning hid all day. I work for gm so I have all the scamatices . Im sure its eiter moving the wire from the lows to parking from the control module. or opening up the body control module and moving a circit. i know pc techology but have limited wiring knowlage i have a grasp of it.
  15. I recently had to get rid of my 2015 Sierra SLE. I had purchased a LED Headlight conversion kit from GEN V diy. I am looking to sell it now since I have no use for it. They are OE lights from a SLT, Denali, or All Terrain pack truck with an adapter harness to make it all work right with no lights. Thanks for looking. I am looking to get 1000 + Shipping OBO The pictures show my 2015 SLE with the headlights installed. There are no warning messages and the functions all work seamlessly. (props to GenVdiy!)
  16. was looking to upgrade my headlights on my rig. my truck didn't come with the LED DRLs. Was looking to buy a set but can't find much online for part numbers or anything like that with the HDs. Only can find stuff on the half tons. Maybe the headlights for the half tons are the exact same as the heavy dutys.. Anybody?
  17. Hi, I have a 2007 Tahoe that consistently blows front bulbs. The most recent issue is the passenger side blinker bulb will not turn off. Any ideas would be appreciated. TIA.
  18. Hey everyone, My DRL's haven't been turning on for a while now and so my lowbeams are on day and night! As you can imagine, the lifespan of the low beams have been cut drastically and before I get new and better bulbs, I want to fix this issue. So far I've done the basics of replacing the DRL bulbs themselves along with the fuse(s) and nothing has worked, what else should I do? Hopefully the light sensor on the dash isn't the problem as it would be a pita to fix.
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