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Showing results for tags 'filter'.
Found 8 results
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Thought that this might be a thread of interest and maybe a way for some to keep track of their oil changes. Basically post the vehicle you changed the oil on, at what mileage and how long you go on the oil change. If you follow the oil life monitor (OLM) then post at what percent it was reading at the time of the change. Also what brand oil/weight and oil filter you use. Here is an example; 7/21/18 2002 Silverado 182,157 total miles on truck 5,147 miles on oil OLM at 0% Oil AMSOIL Signature Series 10w-30 out SS 0w-20 in Ea064 filter out and Ea030 filter on Sent sample off to Dysonanalysis to see how this sample did. Reason for so short is I changed out the oil pan, intake gaskets and rear main seal so there will be some sealant in there somewhere. My oil consumption went to 0 after the intake gasket change. So it must have had a small leak. I use to go through a qt in 5k miles. No more smoke on start up after pulling the trailer either so I'm happy. Also I have been running E85 for most of this oil change and I want to see what effect it has had on the oil. -
I am not sure how many use Mobil 1 in their truck, but you can get a filter and 5 qt of oil for $29.99 plus tax at Auto Zone. It's a decent deal with the filter included. Once 5 quarts and a filter are in your cart, the coupon automatically applies. You can pick up at the store or, if you have Shoprunner, you get free shipping. And it comes in 5 individual quarts, so you can use them as top-off or combined with a jug for 8 quarts like my 5.3 takes. Makes for ~$50 oil change, which isn't bad for everything. And I'm not affiliated with Auto Zone or anything, just want to let you know, not sure how long it lasts. Here is what I used: Mobil1 Oil Filter Part Number: M1-212 Alternate Part Number: M1-212A Location / Category: Oil Filter Mobil Engine Oil Part Number: 124184 Alternate Part Number: 105891 Location / Category: Engine Oil -
I have a gently used K&N air intake with the stainless tube for sale in the Cleveland, OH area. It fits the 3.6l Canyon's and Colorados. I only put 6000 miles on the filter before I sold my truck. Definitely improved throttle response and made my Colorado sound mean. Asking $100 and local pickup only.
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So after the free oil changes I realized it would take at least an hour or a little more to get oil changed for 80$ Even with appointment. And each oil change the dip stick would say its 1qt overfilled. so I decided to start changing the oil myself. And In doing this I learned a big lesson late in life. make sure the damn o-ring is still in the old filter! This has never happend to me ever! Embarrassing as heck! Oil everywhere, luckily I was out by the old shed and not on my concrete. Had to clean up my toxic waste and now somehow clean the bottom of my truck. So even after all that I'm still changing my own oil from here on out. another thing I learned is that after 5k the oil filter gets really hard to get off. The old filter Deforms from trying to break it free it get so tight. i use dexos o- 20w.
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Hi all, I am new here, but I just got done doing a transmission filter replacement on my 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 (4 speed auto). I watched some DIYs on youtube and looked at some forums, but they all said to drop the exhaust down and that was an issue for me. I didn't have a socket that worked on there, one was too deep, the other was too shallow, and they were a PITA to break loose, so I went another route without dropping it and it worked fine! On a side note, while I was down there I did the front and rear differential and transfer case fluids, too. They are easy, just drain and fill until it flows out. I used a $6 hand pump off amazon that screws right into 1qt bottles of fluid. You can use the same kind of hand pump to drain the transmission pan fluid once it drops to reduce the mess, but I just embraced it and let it spill out all over. Anyway, here is what I did... Tools: 10mm socket 13mm socket T40 torx bit 1. Remove the heat shield from the side of the transmission pan, it's just in the way. 2. Remove one torx bolt and loosen the other above the shift cable bracket. This allows you to slide it out of the way for extra clearance to the pan bolts and gives the needed clearance to get the pan out. Note that there is very little clearance here and all I could do was get a torx socket on there and use a 1/4" wrench for leverage, but it worked! 3. Remove the pan bolts. It is helpful to leave a couple in so you can control where all the fluid drains out. Drop one corner and let it drain out in as controlled of a manner as you can. It's messy, especially if your truck doesn't fit in the garage and it's a windy day like I had! 4. Remove the pan with a little wiggling, it should slide right out. Pop the old filter out and the new one in. 5. Clean it thoroughly and get the sludge off the magnets. It might be my imagination, but I think one side of the magnet stuck better, so just test it out when you put them back. 6. Put the new gasket on and feed the bolts in. You will have to leave the back row of bolts out in order to clear the part above the exhaust crossover under the pan. 7. Bolt it in and re-install the heat shield and shift cable bracket. I didn't get any torque specs, but they were really easy to remove, so I just tightened them down mechanically tight. 8. Fill with fluid, it took about 6qt initially, but I have to go for a good long drive yet to warm it up and check it again. Hope this helps, it's way easier than trying to get the dang exhaust system to drop down! I mean really, look at how they located these bolts, I'd need 3 different sockets, a swivel, and a couple crows foot wrenches to break and remove all that crap including the sensor, no thanks! If you have any suggestions let me know, peace!
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SOLD. Moderators can lock this thread. KN 6.2/5.3L Intake Kit 63-3082 $180.00 includes overnight shipping Offers will be considered. Applications list: http://www.knfilters.com/search/applications.aspx?prod=63-3082 This is off my 2014 and I just switched to a 2016 Silverado and am going a different direction with the setup. Filter is cleaned and I will re-oil it before shipping it out so it will be ready to install when you received it. All hardware included. I also upgraded the hose fitting couplers to the intake tube to metal fittings. I will include the vac tubes for the valve cover as well. SOLD. Moderators can lock this thread.
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I have a 2001 4 door long bed duramax 100% stock. I purchased it about 2 months ago for a little over $6k with a blown tcase. Drove it a fairly far distance home with no issue what so ever. Sat in drive way moved it around a couple of times and parked it in the garage to do tcase. Almost two months later I finally finished it and now it won't start. Acts like it will, fires up then dies right aways like the fuel shut off. New batteries Replaced fuel filter Rebuilt filter cap. New fuel lines on filter cap Tried running fuel line from injection pump to tank of diesel.. No go Pressurized the fuel tank primed it and tried starting.. Nothing Pressurized fuel tank sprayed soap water on lines.. No leaks found Tried having someone prime while I cranked. Truck will run off starting fluid through airbox but dies when you stop spraying. Could the injectors go bad just from sitting for a little? What are my options..? -
All the DIY on utube on this topic is for the 99-06 models. GM has changed some of the plumbing down there. Some say that you have to unbolt the Y pipe from the exhaust manifold. They also say that you have to remove the two torx bolts to remove the transmission cable shift bracket to get enough clearance to drop the pan. Can you skip all this and just unbolt the pan like the the old days? Has anyone done this on a 2nd gen? What size are the torx bolts? Thanks!
