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Guys Ive seen some videos and articles and debates on switching to 5-30 motor oil and people had better experience with it and I got an 05 gmc sierra with the NP246 TC and I live in a extremely hot climate, any ideas if it worked with you guys ? because I feel it would be better since the motor oil has more viscosity then auto track II and less viscosity of diff oil and of course it’ll get thinner with hot climates but still lubricate better than the recommended manufacture TC fluid, any other ideas before I take the chance?

Testing Critical Properties of Brake Fluids Brake fluids are unique among hydraulic fluids because they are considered safety-critical vehicle equipment by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). Their primary function is to transfer braking force from the pedal to the wheels while protecting brake system components. Savant Labs conducts comprehensive tests on brake fluids to ensure they maintain appropriate viscosity across various temperatures, remain compatible with different rubber materials used in brake systems, and do not damage metal components. Key tests include kinematic viscosity measurement, compatibility checks, and assessments of fluid stability under chemical and temperature stressors. Incompressibility is another crucial property of brake fluids, as it ensures the effective transfer of force within the braking system. To prevent the formation of compressible gas pockets, brake fluids must have high boiling points and avoid air absorption. The Equilibrium Reflux Boiling Point (ERBP) tests measure the fluid's boiling point under both dry and wet conditions. Given these rigorous testing protocols, Savant Labs can build a testing package to meet your needs for a variety of applications. Brake Fluid Classification Brake fluids fit into classifications depending on their chemical composition, viscosity, and boiling point. The Department of Transportation specifies DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5, and DOT 5.1 in FMVSS 116. SAE specifications J1703, J1704, J1705, and ISO Class 3, 4, 5.1, and 6 mostly align with the DOT classifications with a few minor differences. Even though the Department of Transportation does not designate classes DOT 4+ or SUPER DOT 4, manufacturers often apply these designations to fluids meeting the additional requirements of ISO Class 6. Table 1 shows the relationship between these classifications. Table 1. Comparison of classification specifications [1, 2, 3, 4]. The compatibility tests are almost identical across all DOT classes. Of course, because silicone fluid does not mix with water, tests for DOT 5 SBBF sometimes have different requirements. When testing to DOT 3, 4, or 5.1 specifications, the technician must mix water into the fluid. For DOT 5 SBBF, the technician must instead humidify the fluid. In some cases, such as for chemical stability and pH, there is no requirement for silicon-based fluids. Table 2 shows the tests and requirements for component compatibility in FMVSS 116. Table 2. Component compatibility test requirements [1]. There are a few subtle differences between DOT and SAE limits for the stability and compatibility tests, so a fluid meeting the specifications for one classification may not necessarily meet the specifications for the comparable classification. Therefore, the actual test result is critical for understanding if a fluid meets both specifications. While the tests are nearly identical, SAE specifications call out test methods according to ASTM or DIN designations, and the FMVSS describes the test procedures and refers to SAE or ASTM standards only for materials, equipment, or calibration procedures. The most significant difference between the SAE and FMVSS specifications is in testing for damage to mechanical equipment from repeated motion. The FMVSS uses a simulated brake system with referee standard braking cylinders. In contrast, the SAE specifications use an SRV tribometer, which measures friction and wear under oscillating motion. Brake Fluid Specification Compliance In the US, manufacturers and packagers must self-certify that their brake fluids meet FMVSS-116 specifications. Manufacturers must conduct adequate testing to ensure compliance with DOT classification and provide certification to packagers, who must, in turn, ensure the fluid remains uncontaminated and complies with labeling requirements [5]. Both ISO and SAE classifications follow a similar self-certification process [6]. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) enforces these standards by randomly testing products. If a sample fails the FMVSS-116 test procedure, manufacturers may be requested to recall the product, and legal action can ensue if they do not comply. Consumers can also report non-compliant products to the NHTSA for investigation [5]. Savant Labs offers brake fluid testing to the specifications of SAE J1703, SAE J1704, and FMVSS-116, providing manufacturers with confidence in their product certifications and offering spot checks for packagers. Testing is crucial as some fluids may fail to meet the required standards due to manufacturing variability or contamination. Savant Labs ensures all processes are correctly followed, and equipment is functioning properly during testing. Companies must closely monitor their brake fluids to maintain compliance and avoid costly recalls. A complete list of brake fluid testing provided by Savant Labs is available. Contact Savant Labs to request a quote. [1] FMVSS 49 CFR 571.116 (10/1/2023) https://www.govinfo.gov/app/details/CFR-2023-title49-vol6/CFR-2023-title49-vol6-sec5 71-16. Accessed, May 5, 2024. [2] SAE J1703TM MAR2024 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid. [3] SAE J1704 TM MAR2024 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid Based Upon Glycols, Glycol Ethers, and the Corresponding Borates. [4] Remmen Brakes. (2019, January 22). Brake Fluid: What you Need to Know [Part 2] – Standards. Accessed May 5, 2024. https://www.remmenbrakes.com/brake-fluid-standards/ [5] Office of Vehicle Safety Compliance, NHTSA, OVSC Mission, March 18, 2013. https://www.nhtsa.gov/sites/nhtsa.gov/files/ovsc_mission.pdf. Accessed May 5, 2024. [6] J. Light, SAE International, personal communication December 18, 2023

I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight???

Hi everyone, I’m new to this forum and I just want to get a good idea of how many miles everyone’s getting out of there 14-18 5.3’s / 6L80 combos and what type of maintenance y’all are doing to get there. I have 90,****** now on my 2016. I follow my service schedule to a T. Trans fluid and filter every 22,500 and engine oil every 4000. What’s everyone else do to get there trucks up to high mileage

I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 4x4 5.3l V8 with the 8 speed transmission. I already flushed out my transmission and filled it back up with the Mobil 1™ Synthetic LV ATF HP blue label. The question is, do i also use the HP fluid for my transfer case? Or do i need to use just a standard ATF fluid instead. I cant seem to find a straight answer on this. The owners manual states to use DEXRON®-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid. Would using regular ATF in the transfer case and HP ATF in the transmission cause any issues? Thanks in advance!

My 2016 Sierra 2500HD has 176,000 miles on it already and recently started eating parts. The latest part to fail was the reductant tank heater (DEF Heater). Upon cold start the check engine light came on with code P21DD. After a little reading I learned that this can result in “Limp Mode”. I was in the middle of nowhere in Northern Wyoming. Not cool! I drove down to Denver and replaced it that week. I shot this video of the repair.....

Since I started working with the company I'm currently associated since last April I've had a 2016 Silverado. Every now and then the fluid comes out but 98-99% of the time it doesn't. When I took it into the dealership to get some basic work done on it I had them check it and of course it worked. They said it was probably frozen, which makes sense, but it also happened a lot during the summer. The washer fluid has been topped off and it still isn't working. Any ideas? Thank you!

Hey guys looking for all the advice I can get. I have done a fair bit of research already. However, I am going to change the transmission fluid in my 2007 (New Body) Silverado. If it matters it is a 4.8 V8, 4x4, regular cab and long bed. 1.) I do not know exactly what filter kit I need. I went by Advanced Auto Parts and the guy told me you usually count the bolts on the pan but he said for this specific model there are two different ones. I called General Motors and talked to what I am guessing is a foreigner that lives in another country. I gave him my VIN and he could not tell me what I needed to know. Does anyone happen to know which one I need? 2.) My truck has 95,000 on it and to be honest he oil does not look good. When I pull the dipstick out and wipe it off it is pretty black/burnt but there is definitely still a little red to it. I was told that if it was in really bad shape not to change it because I know I can risk damage. I know this is true but not sure if it has been neglected to that point. It is sort of weird that I can still see red meaning someone might have dropped the pan at one point and added oil in. I bought the truck used. To try and keep this short I will say I am pretty well researched from YouTube and other forums. However, any advice from people that have a similar truck to mine would be greatly appreciated. For instance, I know that I am going to have to drop the exhaust to remove the pan. Just so you guys know I plan to remove the transmission in line to the radiator and let it pump out as much as it wants. After it stops I am going to put it back together, drop the exhaust, drop the pan, replace the filter and gasket, then put it back together. Also when I go to get a plastic hose to guide the old oil out does anyone know what size hose is a good fit for my truck? Also where can I buy it, my local auto parts store? I appreciate any help in advance.