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Showing results for tags 'fob'.
Found 16 results
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Hello, I just got my new 6.2L Tahoe and love it. However, having issues with the FOB/Remote. It has passive locks and I can be standing directly at the door and it won't unlock! It won't remote start from 40ft. looking right at it through a window in my house. Seems like VERY WEAK SIGNAL for some reason. My 2017 Duramax can remote start from inside my office and 50-75 ft away!! No problems at all. I went to my local Chevy store here in town and after asking and explaining, it seems there was a bulletin out that said "full strings of info aren't being transmitted", and they suggested re-programming BOTH remotes. They did it yesterday......today, same thing. I can't remote start from any distance at all, and again, standing at the door with FOB in my pocket, notta.......BUT, only occasionally! Some times it works like a champ, others, not so much. Anyone else having this issue? Thanks and hope to hear from others if this happens not to just be MY new Tahoe having issues! Thanks, Kevin -
I have a 2012 Suburban, owned since new. Yesterday the key fob / remote / keyless transmitter stopped working. It stopped, then worked a couple times to unlock, then quit completely. I assumed it was a bad battery (10+ years old), so I replaced it with a new battery, still didn't work. I have the second remote that's only been used a couple times when the keys were "lost", and it doesn't work either. No response from any buttons. I checked the batteries in both, and both batteries are at 3.3 volts. I pulled the DSM fuse for 5 minutes and then disconnected the vehicle battery for 5 minutes, no change. I have tried holding the remote right next to where (I think) the RCDLR is in the left-rear pillar, still no response. The TPMS system works fine, reading all 4 tires correctly with no errors. I hooked up my ODB2 scanner, and it doesn't show any codes. Do I have two dead remotes? Or has the RCDLR partially stopped working? I called the dealer, all they said was "buy a new remote, your two remotes have died". I asked, why would an unused 10 year old remote die? No answer, just come in and buy one. I have no faith in my dealership's service department based on previous repairs unfortunately, so I thought I'd ask here. My local locksmith will attempt a re-sync for $50, but they said if they're both not working it's not that. Unfortunately this year model won't allow the user to add or reprogram a remote. Thanks in advance for any ideas of what to try, or what might be the issue. -
I have a 2019 Chevy Silverado 1500 and my key fob only has the lock/unlock, and the panic button on it. I saw that the official Chevy accessories page has the key fobs with remote start, tail gate unlock on them as well. If I get one, will I be able to have the dealership program it on my current truck so I can have remote start or is this only for replacement for owners that already have the same key fob? 5 Button Keyless Entry Remote Key Fob Part No. 84312372 https://accessories.chevrolet.com/product/2019/Chevrolet/Silverado 1500/5-button-keyless-entry-remote-key-fob-84312372?categoryId=12001 Thanks much! -
Hey all, I have looked and looked for more clear instructions on how to program a second key fob for my 2020 Silverado (dealership lost 2nd set). I live 8 hours from where I bought the truck and the dealership I bought it from would need the truck to program it. I am trying to do it myself. I have followed this guide but still no luck. The youtube video that is out for it is if you are programming a key fob without already having one programmed. It wasn't much help for me. Any GM Mechanics have a quick write up they can copy and paste would be appreciated. These are the two things that haven't been enough help for me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=228&v=TUGuBOYIGr4&feature=emb_logo https://www.programyourremote.com/classified/2020-gmc-sierra-keyless-entry-remote-fob-smart-key-programming-instructions-listing-9870.aspx Thanks in advance -
New member. Please let me know there's an error with my post. I've found two security issues on my 2019 Silverado and wondering if I'm missing something before contacting Chevy. 1. I can start the truck as usual with keys in the vehicle, then place the keys outside the vehicle and drive away, miles away, turn off the engine and restart the truck, repeatedly. It only presents a problem when you turn the truck off AND open the door. Then, it will not restart. 2. If you find the truck unlocked and you do not have your key fob, there is no way to lock the truck. You can press the lock button but it immediately unlocks. Any help is appreciated. -
Yesterday on GM Authority (they had a story about vehicle-mounted keyless entry key pads (not fobs) http://gmauthority.com/blog/2019/10/keyless-entry-keypad-offered-as-gm-accessory-for-buick-chevy-and-gmc/. After a little more research and reading I have found that you can buy it as a kit and have the dealer or someone else install it. So I have a couple of questions. 1. Can I get it for my 2014 Silverado LT? 2. Does the installer need to be a dealership technician? 3. What is the general quality review of the new system? Thanks! Tim Kroeker Keyless Entry Keypad GM Accessory For Buick, Chevy, GMC _ GM Authority.html -
Hello, I just got my new 6.2L Tahoe and love it. However, having issues with the FOB/Remote. It has passive locks and I can be standing directly at the door and it won't unlock! It won't remote start from 40ft. looking right at it through a window in my house. Seems like VERY WEAK SIGNAL for some reason. My 2017 Duramax can remote start from inside my office and 50-75 ft away!! No problems at all. I went to my local Chevy store here in town and after asking and explaining, it seems there was a bulletin out that said "full strings of info aren't being transmitted", and they suggested re-programming BOTH remotes. They did it yesterday......today, same thing. I can't remote start from any distance at all, and again, standing at the door with FOB in my pocket, notta.......BUT, only occasionally! Some times it works like a champ, others, not so much. Anyone else having this issue? Thanks and hope to hear from others if this happens not to just be MY new Tahoe having issues! Thanks, Kevin
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My Ford F-150 didn't have keyless entry so I kept my keys in during one of my extended overseas trips, using the keypad to get in and my keys always safe. I could never stand the thought of losing my keys 6,000 miles away and having no way to get in my truck and I wouldn't be able to get in my house! I learned it the hard way a long time ago, never again. I didn't know my Chevrolet came with keyless but it was attached to a fantastic deal I couldn't refuse so I had a dilemma. I could use my phone to unlock my truck so I didn't really need the keypad my Ford had, but I just may install one for $250 at the dealership anyway. That's just in case I lose my phone whilst overseas. Unfortunately, keeping the keyless fob around the new Silverado will cause battery drainage as the module will be kept active when the keys are detectable. My truck didn't lock when I was at the back of my truck. As one member said, the Hitch Safe wouldn't be good enough and he's right so it was no longer an option. One here suggested wrapping it in aluminum foil and I tried that. It worked very well and realized my Progresso soup can had thicker aluminum so I tried it with the smooth-edge can opener and, voila! I am very pleased to report my truck did not unlock when I held it inches away from the door. To think I was going to spend $19.99 for a can of Coca-Cola with a secret compartment! Now, my question is: if I used my phone to unlock the truck from a distance... how long would the battery last before it dies? Can it do a month?
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I am looking to see if anyone has been able to program their own key fobs with any cheaper machines. I have seen the Dorman programmers on eBay and Amazon which can program a 2016 Sierra Key fob. I would like to purchase a programmer or something similar like a diagnostic tool that could also program my wife’s 2012 Malibu or at least the newer GM trucks. Has anyone had luck or know of anyone able to program keys and key fobs with any cheaper tools? Any info is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Hi, new member here! I've read a lot of helpful posts on this site and decided to join. It appears that by means of motor vehicles, some force in the cosmos is hell-bent on driving me insane, as every ridiculously simple process must be infinitely difficult and dreadful. Today's ridiculousness involves programing a key fob in my 2006 Silverado Z71 4x4. I've had the truck a couple weeks and it came with no key fobs. I decided to buy 2 from Amazon after noticing the truck has the AU0 RPO code, as well as power unlocks/windows, and no key cylinder on the passenger door. I've read the process online, watched youtube videos, yet when I try I am unsuccessful, and can't find anything related to the issue I am having. So here's the process: -key out, door open, sitting in driver seat- -shut door, insert key. Push and hold unlock, turn on-off-on-off (I've also tried on-acc-on-acc per some advice from another post on this forum). The moment the key passes the "ACC" point on the ignition cylinder the 2nd time, the doors locks cycle, and I release my finger from the unlock (exactly the same as every video I've seen on YouTube". The issue is, about 2-3 seconds after the door locks cycle and I've released my finger from the unlock button, the door locks will automatically cycle a 2nd time, and the horn will beep once. No matter how long I hold the lock and unlock button on the remotes, there is no response from the truck and the fobs will not work. Interestingly enough, no matter how carefully I perform the sequence or even if I'm trying to botch it, I get the exact same results. The door locks will cycle normally, then 2-3 seconds later cycle again and beep. This happens whether the driver door is open, or shut, or even if I have the truck on before starting the process. If I press the unlock-lock in the truck a million times after I release my finger, or if I just keep holding, no matter how many times I've tried releasing the unlock at different times, if I pour gasoline all over the driver door and set it on fire, drive it into the lake and perform it underwater holding my breath, it doesn't matter and I get the same response from the truck. No check engine lights, no security light issues, no abs lights, nothing else at all that suggests there's any wiring issues with the truck, everything works as it should. I have found one other post on the entire interwebz with someone having the same issue of the door locks cycling a 2nd time and the beep, but no helpful responses or solutions. So, has anyone ran into this issue before or have any advice? I'll be posting a video on youtube and adding the link later. Picture of RPO sticker attached. Thanks!
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Hey guys, Hoping to get some input on this as its a little frustrating. My key fob and lock and unlock button on the drivers door do not work at all. I have an 09 Sierra, and have already replaced the lock button as that was the easiest piece to eliminate. There is power to the button, and when i push both the lock and unlock buttons i can hear clicking from the secondary fuse panel. Someone has suggested that i check out the relay, but i am unable to locate and find said relay. All the fuses have been checked and rechecked, and are all in good shape. Dont really want to take it to a shop for this as i can likely do it myself. Thanks in advance Elyse -
I have a 2012 Silverado LT Z71 with 5.3 that I bought used. When I bought the truck it did not have key fobs so I bought two factory style knock-offs from eBay. I took them to a locksmith and he programmed them and they worked great for almost a year. Last week I went to leave home and my truck battery was dead and would not crank. So, I charged up the battery and everything was fine except now neither key fob will work. The only response I get from the key fobs is if I hold both lock and unlock buttons at the same time the truck will go into tire pressure sensor relearn mode. So, then I took the truck back to the locksmith and told him what had happened. He said sometimes when the battery dies the truck will lose memory of the keys fobs. He then hooked up a zed-full computer and attempted to reprogram the key fobs. He tried multiple times several different ways and even used another type of computer but was unable to program them. The truck would go into keyfob learn mode but would never chime when he would hold the lock and unlock buttons down. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas?
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Members just wanted to pass along another Hot Sale item. Keyless Entry Keypad Here is the information from GM: "This Keyless Entry System features a keypad that allows you to lock/unlock your vehicle using a five-digit PIN rather than a key or a key fob. Must be equipped with factory Remote Keyless Entry." Personal note, after coming from my F150 a few years ago, this is one of the items I personally never realized how much I used until I did not have it. Nice to be able to lock/unlock the truck at times when you don't have your keys handy. Only bad news, this only fits the 2017's and up..... From my understanding, they are trying to see what needs to be done to make them work with the 15 and 16's as well..... Limited time price $92.00 shipped to most places in the US Let me know if anyone is interested. Bobby
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I am well aware that we can avoid paying the dealerships fee and get a replacement key from ebay, pay someone with a fancy laser machine to cut it and then program it ourselves. Even with all that effort we can save about half the price that GM would charge. I'm wondering about the style of keys, for our trucks we have the traditional style key with a separate fob. Some other GM models (GMC Terrain/ Chevy Equinox in particular) have the flip/ switchblade style. I believe the working end of the key is identical and they both have the "chip" for programming. (correct me if I'm wrong) So the question is, can we use either style for a replacement? I really want to get a spare for both my truck and my wife's car. But obviously a replacement/ valet key does not need a fob, so if possible I would just get the "truck" style key for both if that works. I believe others might be interested in making a switchblade that works with their trucks if that is possible. So if anyone has tried this, I'd love to hear about your findings. Thanks in advance.
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Hello all name is Mark and I am new to the group, but don’t that that fool ya ;) live in NV USA and been driving accross the states in my little Blazer 2 door since 2003, Grate little SUV... bought it new. and just traded it in for a used GMC 2003 GMC Dainuli Sierra 2500 Extended Cab 4x4 with R/r steer. this is Our Very first NEW to Us Truck ;) and love the move ;) anyhow ;) Just finished installing the ///Alpine 9886 deck and new door speakers to boot, installed the Icom 2100H VHF ham radio and its 5/8th wave antenna did the coax and power runs, looks neat and tidy and no wire showing all went well... So, sitting in the driver’s seat in the truck, looking around and noticed that "everything" has power something, locks, windows, steering, seat, morrors, etc., and one thing led to another, and wonder if the truck was fitted with Key-less entry. So I called the local GMC dealership and enquired, gave them the Vin number of the truck and he was able to look up that info up, and sure enough, it was fitted with one.. ((keep this in mind)) the dealership wanted $50 for each key fob and $50 for programming each one... ? really... . After long research, I found a place that had the key fobs for my year and model of truck, so I bought 2 Fob's from them. They arrived over the weekend, both me and my wife went to the truck with the programming sheet, to program them to the truck, Followed the instructions to the letter, Click Click, ok in programming mode, hold down remote buttons... 30 sec... 1 min, 2... Nothing... hmm? as I do a lot of electronics and involved in Ham radio, I pulled the remote apart to Checked batt. in remote to make sure there was no paper/plastic around the battery that may be preventing operation, as you do when you get new battery electronics, but nothing was in there... just the battery and Circuit board... all looked good... so I did the same to the 2nd remote, and still had the same end result, nothing happened... . so I email the key fob store, and now they are asking me, if I have the Org. key Fob and to email them the I.D on the back of the Org. key fob (that I don’t have)........ I guess to confirm the correct remote? But, I do not have the Org. remote as I bought the truck used. . so my next question is "How" do I find out this info that I am missing, so I can get the correct key fob for the truck? . How does the dealer ship look up this info to find the correct fob for make morel/year What info am I missing if any? . Any help would be most appreciative. just trying to make this as easy as possible. Thanks all. 73. .M.
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okay so I have a 2001 silverado which had keyless entry when i got it. long story short it got left in a barn for about a month and my keyless module wires were destroyed by mice/rats and are long gone. I bought a new keyless module that you wire in yourself. it has diagrams and im sorta familiar with the gm wiring. so blue is lock, and white is unlock. if you apply a positive to the blue wire will it unlock? or do you apply a negative? im trying to wire it in and currently ran into some problems maybe someone could lead me the right direction. thanks in advance
