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Showing results for tags 'fuse box'.
Found 8 results
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Hi all. Long story short, I wired up my CB and dashcam to an open fuse in the drivers-side fuse block, and fried the whole thing. (Really!) Cost me a good bit to get it replaced. The dealer said I was drawing too much to tap in to there, and I should go to the engine fuse block instead. I've tested all the open ones on my truck (an LT) and didn't find anything with power with the key on. Does anyone know if any of the full ones are safe to pull? Or how are other doing it? Thanks in advance!
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Okay so does anyone have an idea how to fix my fuse box? The problem is I'm missing the internal connectors to plug the fuses into. Its my two power fuses, someone must've ripped them out to hard.
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So, get up one day after a snow storm to move my truck, battery dead on my 2015 Sierra Base. Original battery, didn't think much of it, boosted it, went and bought a new battery. Next day, new battery is dead again. Brought it to my local mechanic to troubleshoot the draw. He was noticing a 0.5V drop in 9 hours one day, then dead the following day. Charged again, looked at it at night, the heater controls were lit up, another time the instrument cluster warning lights all lit up. He also saw the dome light turn on by themselves. Prior to that, I had other intermittent issues: - unlock the door with the key, pushed the unlock button on the door, it would not unlock the others, start the engine, then I can unlock with the door button - parking brake light on the dash doesn't come on parking brake applied - would crank for 10 to 15 seconds on cold mornings before starting Spoke to another mechanic I know, he said the fuse box was the issue, he replaced 4 in the last couple of years. I got it replaced by my mechanic and brought the truck home. I opened up the old box to see what was going on inside, it was a real mess, all corroded to ******, so pretty confident that was the issue. It's so prevalent that the local dealer keeps them in stock.
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I have a 2007 GMC Sierra 2500HD. I bought this truck at auction so there is no information from a prior owner. (This is my retirement hobby. I retired from a desk job. Now I want to get my hands dirty.) I found a jumper wire from IGN E 10A fuse to the SEO IGN 10A fuse. I haven't tried removing it as I first would like to know if anyone has run into this. Thanks in advance.
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HELP I have been work hard on this stubborn thing for months and i found what i this is the problem. I don't have power to everything in red. ( horn/DM T/L CTSY ECMB CRNK INSTR LPS ) i have taken apart the fuse box and cleaned and inspected.. i replaced every inline fuse the goes to the junction box by the master cylinder or so i think i have. Is there anything in the fuse block that could make this happen? I'm on the edge on buying and installing a new fuse box. But that is a lot of wires to re install
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No Power At Fuse Box for Trailer Lights
jkrosky posted a topic in 2015-2019 Silverado HD & Sierra HD
I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD High Country with 6.6 diesel equipped with tow package. It has dedicated trailer brake and trailer fuses within the primary fuse box under the hood. My passenger side trailer blinkers and brake lights are not working. I've traced the lack of 12v power all the way up to the 10a fuse dedicated to the right side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #17). I have replaced the fuse, re-tested, and still no power. The left side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #14) has 12v power going to it, tested on the top of the fuse when the flashers are on, but the right side has nothing. I've also swapped and then replaced the trailer parking lights relay switch (relay #63) and still nothing. Is this most likely an issue with fuse box or something else supplying power or ground to the fuse box? Thanks for the help... this is the craziest thing. -
Hi, I have a question regarding my new to me 2012 2500 as I'm chasing down a potential bad starter. HOW do you tell the orientation of the various relays if you, say, forgot to note which way it was plugged in beforehand? Some have the "8385" (number on top) on the left, and on others it's on the right. Thanks, First ever Chevy 2500 pickup
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I had a strange problem with my '03 GMC Sierra but was able to figure it out and thought I'd post a summary in case someone else can benefit from it. The symptoms were random and odd. The ABS/Brake dash lights would come on every couple weeks and the chime would go off a million times, then started happening more often and finally started happening when I'd turn the key to the "on" position before starting the engine. I figured it had something to do with the ABS module maybe and would look into it, except that when it got really bad it was at the same time my A/C blower and electric windows wouldn't work. AND, the transmission would go into "limp mode" and stay in third gear. I figured it had to be related since it all started going bad within one day, then the truck wouldn't start at all, luckily in front of my house. I suspected the ignition switch since that's a place where multiple components are powered. I grabbed a good used switch (I work at a wrecking yard) and swapped it out and that didn't help so I checked power to the switch. One wire was hot going to the switch but when I rotated the wheel to acc and on positions only a ocuple wires lit up out of eight! Good switch but power not being distributed. Turns out that there's two power wires that go to the switch, in my case both red wires (some schematics show red and red/wht) and the other red wire was dead. I checked it at the fuse box and it had power, probed the wire from the fuse box to as far as I could toward the fire wall and had power, then started at the switch and probed the wire past the big connector under the dash as far back to the firewall as I could and it was good (continuity test). So I decided I had a bad power wire at the firewall somewhere. In my book this is weird, I've never had something like that happen before, but the bad wire was buried in the wire loom so much that I decided to cut the wire at both ends and solder a new "patch" in. Everything worked! The A/C and windows have worked perfectly for three weeks and the transmission never showed a problem again. The only disappointment has been the ABS/Brake lights lighting up once in the past three weeks. Not sure what to think about that yet. Sorry for the long explanation but I think it's all important. Hopefully no one else ever has this problem... Dan
