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Showing results for tags 'heater core'.
Found 4 results
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hi everyone, ive looked high and low with no luck, so apologies of this is directly cited somewhere. The plastic grooves/housing where the blower motor twists into place under the glove box, are brittle and broken. Therefore, my blower fan will not stay in place. Is that plastic housing or assembly core sold as a stand alone part? Trying to figure out a way to get the blower motor secured without duct tape or something else. thanks!
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So it is one thing after the next with my truck and I thought there was no better place to come for advice. The last few years I have noticed problems with getting heat from the heater core. It is usually fixed as soon as the truck starts moving or I give it a little time so never investigated until now. I checked my coolant reservoir tank and it appears to be empty and I am not sure where to go from here. I know that the water pumps are notorious for going bad on these trucks so I am figuring that is probably it. Also I have been feeling the lines and one is usually not as hot or even cold compared to the other one where it runs into the heater core. 1.) Should I go ahead and put some new fluid and water in, then pressurize the system to check for leaks? 2.) Should I go ahead and just replace the water pump and thermostat? It looks like most guys are replacing the ACDelco version with another brand like Car Quest or DuraLast because of how bad the factory ones are known to be? What do you guys think? I have been told to go ahead and replace the rubber hoses and inlet lines as well. Have any of you guys replaced it and not replaced the hoses? People usually say the hoses are not far behind the water pump if that is the problem. I would hate to replace everything and have one of the hoses begin to leak in a year from now or something. As always any advice is greatly appreciated gentlemen!
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Hey guys, Encountered a coolant leak at the heater hose quick connect fitting on a 2005 Tahoe. I had one of these snap last year on my ‘05 Sierra so it’s a pretty common occurrence on NBS models that are still on the road. I made a video of what I ran into while replacing the fittings that I think will be helpful to someone that needs to tackle the same thing. Let me know now what you guys think: Video / Replacing GM Heater Hose Quick connectors -
Gents, I've got a head scratcher. My 2000 Suburban 2500 is displaying some strange heater/cooling system issues. Last week my heater started going cold while at idle or lower rpm. As i get past 40, the heat instantly gets hotter and then back to lukewarm at stoplights and such. I haven't seen any of the typical water pump indicators. There's no antifreeze smell or puddle on the floor and the truck still maintains perfect temp while driving. I threw in a new thermostat and topped off the dexcool. The radiator and coolant are only about 6 months old. Aside from the loss of coolant from swapping the t-stat, the system was full. To add to the head scratching, while I was at a stoplight this morning and my front heat started to go cold, I felt the rear vents and they were as hot as could be. So, all signs are pointing to good flow from the water pump. Since the condition appears to be rpm dependent, I'm thinking water pump. But without any of the typical indicators, it doesn't seem to be the culprit. And since I do get hot air on occasion, the air blender door doesn't make sense, as I've got good modulation from hot to cold. A broken heater core doesn't fit either, as that would have been an easy one to diagnose. I'm thinking maybe a partially blocked heater core. To me it makes the most sense, as I would assume the faster the water pump spins, the more it's able to overcome whatever blockage is present. Or am I just thinking about it too much and I should just throw on another water pump and see what happens?
