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Recently bought a leather steering wheel from a 2012 2500 sierra. I swapped it into my 2007nnbs silverado ls/base model. I've searched for hours trying to find the correct information on what I need to get the radio controls to work. The harness that came with the wheel had 1 more wire than the ls model did. Original harness had 6 wires. New wheel had 7 wires. Everything I looked up said the swap should be plug and play. But it is not. I need some help to know what I really need? New clockspring? Different harness? Harness behind clockspring? Or is it just not compatible at all? Picture is of new steering and harness that came with it Thanks everyone!

Hey guys so I asked on Facebook and I didn't really get very far so I figured I'd bring it up here. 120,000 mi completely stock. Here's what's going on. so with the converter locked and I believe in 5th gear around 1500 RPM I randomly get what feels like a misfire when applying light throttle until the turbo spools up. I bought this truck from an auction all the glow plugs were bad replaced all those. The truck had some dead battery issues right before it went to auction so I looked at the stored codes but ended up clearing them because a lot of them were communication codes which would be related to a dead battery. All filter replaced, all fluids (except trans and xfer) replaced. I meant to write down the actual codes but one of them was for EGR and the other ones was for glow plugs. I've replaced the glow plugs everything is completely fine as far as that goes. the filter head does like to lose a little bit of prime overnight so if I just fire it up first thing in the morning it'll run a bit rough if I put about two pumps onto the primer it runs completely smooth after start. I have conflicting data from different scan tools some of them are showing the EGR experiencing large error % as far as deviation. My all tell is showing small amount of error (2% at idle) but not enough to trigger a code. Doesn't feel like 605 torque if I'm honest. Pretty sure my 8.1 could out pull it at this point. Here are the fuel numbers Attached is some OBD live data First few are some screen shots. The one with the date is the most recent. Here is a link to the EGR doing it thing last week while I drove around town. Big drive south (AK to AZ) supposed to start tomorrow night. But I don't want it to brake down in the middle of nowhere.

So I was pretty stupid yesterday and I just got a this beautiful 2016 1500 30k miles in the crimson red and it came with theses butt ugly pinstripes so of course I did what any one would and went and got a 3M Pinstripe eraser wheel and took it to the pinstripes and my speculation is that I had the drill on too high of a setting possibly on the first section as you can see in the pictures it left like a yellowish streak mark in the paint. Then I turned the drill way done and suprize suprize the rest of the truck looks flawless. So what do you all recommend I do to correct that section? I’m really not even sure what to call the damage. Burnt? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the add. Greetings All!! Going to start my membership, by asking what I hope is an easy question. On an online site, they have a deal on a power retractable tonneau cover that I really like, (like same price as non-powered), but I also just installed a Weather Guard tool box. My hope/want is that I can put the retractable canister in back of the toolbox, (tailgate side) and then mount my onboard air tank under it, with the compressor in the toolbox. Finally my question is; will the electric cover stop at my tailgate automatically? I understand I have to cut the rails to accept the canister in the different location, but the cover stopping in the correct stop has me guessing what other mods I’ll have to do. please help ASAP, as I do not know how long this deals gonna last. Thank you! Collin 2018 GMC Sierra Denali 3500hd

The transmission went out last November in my 98 k1500. I started it up a few times afterwards ( over the coarse of a month or so ) with the transmission still out. I have let it sit since then . I am fixing to get the transmission rebuilt and get it back on the road , but for some reason the Anti theft or “passlock” system has activated . It won’t let me do the “relearn procedure” either . I have no idea why it has activated and don’t have the money to by a new bcm or ecm. Can someone explain why it activated ?

Hi... im in need of the spring arm assembly from a monroe hauler air suspension. Having some trouble locating one.. yes I've called monroe. Yes I've called some junk yards. YES I GOT RIPPED OFF FROM A GUY A DAY BEFORE X MAS SAYING HE HAD 2 OF THEM. YES IM AN IDIOT. I'm giving this one last try before I go ahead and make it 4 link.. she needs to get back on the road asap. Love Ed

So this one is a little complicated I drive a 2011 GMC sierra denali, it has the 6.2L V8 with long tube headers and cold air intake. It has also been tuned trying to fix the issue with no luck. While driving about 30-40 mph it begins to buck or lag like the truck is misfiring but there are no codes and i dont believe it is actually misfiring. it seems to struggle unless i am on the gas constantly. It has a similar issue when in the 50-60 mph range as well. Any other time the truck seems to run fine. The best way to describe the anomaly is it seems to oscillate almost for the time it does this instead of smooth acceleration or smooth cruising. It isnt the tac either, it can be heard in the exhaust that it is not running smooth. The things i have done chasing the problem: New injectors, new spark plugs, oil catch can, new spark plug wires, tune, replaced transfer case, cleaned throttle body, new throttle position sensor, new crank shaft position sensor, cleaned all grounds, new MAF, new MAP, new o2 sensors, new air intake manifold. I am starting to think this truck will never be fixed. HELP WANTED lol Thank you for your time.

I have a 99 gmc sierra that I just bought. While im driving down the road I noticed a whine in the drivetrain, I noticed that the 4wd switch wasnt lighting up so I checked the fuses and the ATC fuse had been removed. I put in the correct fuse and the 4wd switch came on. Once it came on it said the truck was in 4hi. I tried to switch it into 2hi and theres a whining noise coming from the transfer case. It makes 2 long whining noises and the 2hi light flashes the it goes right back to 4hi. I cant get it to change into any other mode (4lo, auto4, 2hi). I bought the truck a week ago and im scared im going to grenade the transfer case by driving it like this. Can you please point me in the right direction.

So I have 1997 suburban 1500 2wd 5.7l went to install a train nor the other day didn't get around to it I might add. Had battery disconnected for a bit. Next day it started out driving fine. Felt a wierd flutter going down the highway. Stopped at the store and could barely reverse took basically sitting on the pedal keeping rpm a little over 1200. Went in to drive just fine. By the next stoplight take off felt sluggish. Now it will barely get to moving at all. Electrical issue or what???? RpMs solid at idle around 650, doesn't have the mysterious rough idle or anything like that chased that's thru a full engine rebuild just about with my last suburban. Haven't had this one too long but seemed well taken care of I'm the second owner a school had it before me. So I figure all the maintenance was kept up. Got about 145,000 miles on it trans fluids clean and around proper levels. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping its not a transmission failure don't see that just happening out of the blue without prior signs or behavior

Reaching out to see if anyone else has experienced this. I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 All Terrain with the 5.3. I’m having problems with starting this thing from time to time. It will run fine for a few days and fire right up every time I get in it. However some days on a cold start or after driving awhile and stopping, when I get in to start it up I got all dash lights are working, except I notice my MPG history is erased (which tells me we’re in trouble) then I get messages on the dash that reads, service trailer brake system, service stabilitrac, power steering reduced. Then the check engine light will appear. When I try to crank everything goes black and I’m not hearing clicks from the engine. After I let it set for about 5 minutes it will fire right up no hesitation. I run the codes on it and there’s is a laundry list of codes, which the GMC dealership is saying they’re all low voltage codes...so we swap the battery truck, it runs fine for about a week and a half and then starts doing the same thing. Alternator is ok because I can see it recharging the amps on the truck....any ideas as to why might cause all this? I’m desparate!!!

Unexpected opportunity to buy a 2012 Yukon XL Dinali, 140,000 miles. Worried that the mileage is high but the price seems decent at 12,500. Exterior is immaculate except for a little rust about the size of a nickel inside the door rocker panel. Has recently had new brakes and left suspension leaving sensor replace, front stabilizer link replaced, rear drive shaft assembly replaced. I am hoping to know if I am in for known issues that will pop up. I ADORE the truck but need reliable and my money pit is empty. ThNk you in advance for any help!

Hey! So, I'll give you the quick history... Over the last year we've replaced 3 coil packs. It started with a miss and the dealership recommended a top engine clean and repair of an engine mount. We did that and it didn’t fix it. So they changed one of the coil packs and that did fix it. Then a few months later the miss appeared again and a different dealership replaced another coil pack, at that time at the different dealer they also changed the spark plugs for the other cylinders on that bank (1,3,5 ), the coil pack they changed was #3. Then right before Christmas another coil pack. And now it started missing again and this time I took it to dealer and they said it was the #3 and #4 coil packs. Which the #3 was just changed in July. That one is covered under the GM 2 year parts and labor warranty and at the local dealer we go to they said they didn't record which coil packs they changed before ??. But I had record from the other dealership that it was #3 for the one in July. My question is, what is causing these failures? To have the dealer fix them is like 400 each time! I'm probably going to do the fixing myself from here on if this keeps happening. I just want to understand why it's failing? Are they not gapping the plugs right? I would imagine they are checking for leaks and moisture once they are in there? I’m starting to not have any faith in them and want to understand everything better so I can be more knowledgeable and prepared for our next conversation at least.

Hey guys, I got a 2015 Silverado 5.3l. 138,250km. started ticking sometime last winter. Would happen instantly at start up and last about 5 minutes then would fade away. Sounded like a lifter. Took it to the dealer they said they couldn't hear it. Sound went away so left it. Fast forward to this winter and as Soon as the weather started to cool down I noticed the ticking again. Took it back to the dealer said they couldn't hear it again. I went and picked up my truck right at closing, soon as I fired her up the sound was there but everyone was gone so no one to hear it. I took a video. Next day I called the dealer, sent the video. Took like a week to get back to me. In the meantime I had taken videos pretty much every time I started it. Long story short after a brief fight with them about them trying to say it's normal etc they agreed that it sounded like a noise coming from the valve train. Left my truck with them, they called me said they had to change all lifters. Went to pick up my truck and on start up the sound is still there. This was a month ago. Sent more videos and a previous video from before they did the work and they are saying they can't hear it again. Took it in in person they agreed that there's an issue again and they will look at it. Now they are saying it's possible bad injector noise but they can't figure out which one ?. In the meantime I took it to another dealership they changed the vacuum pump. After that the sound changed. Now it's no longer at start up but once the truck has reached operating temperature and is more of a dull sound. Took it back to that same dealer who did the vacuum pump and they said valve train noise and deffo not injectors. But they won't work on it because the other dealer already did. They didn't change the VLOM or the cam. I had/have no check engine lights. Truck runs awesome. Sometimes rough idle. Any ideas what it could be?

What is the average repair cost for a fuel pump sending unit and float. On a 1998 Suburban 2500. Parts and labor included??

I know the 6112s are semi-new to the community. My question is what would be the lowest possible notch I can install these and still have enough clearance to fit 275X 65R 20 KO2s. I’d imagine the notch settings are similar to the 5100s accept there is 1 extra notch I believe. I have been searching online for the past week and cannot find anyone that confirms the lowest possible setting to fit these tires. I know I can install them at the highest setting and fit just fine, But I am trying to keep rake in the rear due to occasional towing and i do not want to add a leveling block to the rears. I was thinking the third notch (1.25” of lift) would work but I’m not sure if It will get rubbing. Does anyone have any idea on this? I currently have a 2.5 inch leveling spacer but do not want to install it when I switch to the Bilstein 6112s. Thanks!

So I’ve got a 95 Chevrolet c1500 pickup. I just put a new engine in it like two months ago. I have been trying to get the ac working since it’s over 100 degrees where I live. I bypassed the pressure clutch switch with paper clip and the clutch kicked on. So I got get a new switch thinking that will fix it with a can of Freon. Only used one can. While I was putting the Freon in the clutch started turning but it didn’t stay turning. It would cut on and off repeatedly. So I go pull the ac relay fuse out from under the hood and thinking I might have a bad relay. I did the paper clip thing again but I didn’t turn off the truck so it made a small spark and the clutch stopped turning all together. So I went in the truck and turned the fan and ac off. I found out that since the spark when I turn the fan on it automatically turns the ac off. And the there isn’t hardly any air flow coming out of vents but you can hear the fan cut on. If the fan is off the ac is on and the clutch is short cycling but will not stay on when I turn the fan on. I need helppppp. Did I short out the blower motor relay or what?

It’s winter here so I went out yesterday to start my truck and the battery was dead. I put it on a trickle charger for about 7 hours, boosted it up “charger said 90%” when I took it off. I went to start my truck and it fired up immediately, my wipers turned on (to brush some snow off) and radio was playing. I turned it off then went to turn it back on it again fired right up easily then within seconds it slowly shut off. It sounded like something (a pump maybe) was still running while I had my key in (not sure exactly what it was). Read some things about changing a spark plug ? I will try this any other ideas of how to fix this ? Please help

I bought a very clean and sharp looking truck about 6 weeks ago, a private sale. About 2 weeks after I bought it I had unintentionally left the stereo playing while out in the yard to the point it drained the battery. Put a battery charger on it over night and good to go... or so I thought. First I noticed the remote start would no longer work, and would not start with the key, instrument panel said something about security. I popped off the negative cable for a few minutes and put it back on. Started the truck with the key and traction control and stabilitrack is disabled and constantly flashing and dinging on the dash. Check engine light is on. Park assist off flashing too. Now the truck shifts really hard out of park, shift really hard 1-2, 2-3, and into reverse. Transmission now shifts into over drive really prematurely, I almost need to floor it to reach the speed limit or it shifts to OD and becomes a sluggish dog. Occasionally the speedometer will randomly dip or drop for a brief second and I can hear a clicking sound(s) from under the dash. I tried leaving the battery off overnight, tried touching the positive and negative terminals together (and left them touching for hours). I had the truck scanned by several scanners which show 11 different "U" codes (loss of communication) along with a few others. All codes can be cleared but come right back moments later. I was told by several mechanic friends who were helping me out that I need to take it to the dealership. Fast forward to the dealership, they take it into the shop and run their scanner on it and clear the codes, say all is fine and it just needed to be reset. Before leaving the parking lot the check engine light, park assist, traction control and stabilitrack lights come back on, now added is service 4wd. A mile down the road ALL my gauges drop to zero and back repeatedly, the indicator under the "D" is flashing randomly, the door locks are cycling up and down, shifting issues resume.. Everything it was doing before, and more, it became worse! I take it back and they do more checks, and tell me they're not sure what the issue is but it's the end of the day, bring it back next week. They also tell me my battery is low and may need replacing. I leave the dealership and go to the grocery store, truck is dead in the parking lot and jumping it doesn't help, on to the tow truck hook and into the air... went to put the transfer case into 4wd so the guy could drop my front driveshaft and the truck starts?! I drove myself home. Now driving my truck with all dash lights blinking, warnings chiming, under dash clicking, and door locks cycling, and who knows what else, it seems possessed. Once every 5 starts or so the battery voltage drops to about 11 and if left like that, it will not start. Simply pulling over and shutting off the truck for 5 seconds and restarting, the voltage goes back to 14 or better. I spent $20k on a truck I drove problem free for 2 weeks and now it's better suited as a lawn ornament. What have I done? At the beginning when the battery went dead I did no modifications or tinkered with anything.. it seems the battery going dead triggered these issues, but i can't believe that caused all this! Since these issues I have replaced the battery (old one tested fine, but I put in a optima battery that I know is good). Alternator tests well too, cleaned all connections and checked belt and tensioner. I checked all positive connections from battery, alternator, fuse box, mega fuse, and starter. All connections appeared good but I cleaned them up with emery cloth and dielectric grease. I checked the negative cable from battery, block, under rad support, firewall, even the one on the back of the block by the transmission and gave the same treatment. I also added a 4awg ground from battery to firewall, firewall to engine block, block to frame, frame to firewall. I could be totally wrong but I believe there is a short or intermittent contact somewhere in the information bus running throughout my vehicle and it is causing chaos.. I'm just at a loss of where or how to go about tracking it down. I have done a lot of reading online, lots of videos, and this seems to be a common issue that is ongoing with many of these trucks. Some are repaired by replacing battery cables or mega fuse but they appear to be a short term fix and the problems eventually return. Some have spent thousands replacing modules, fuse boxes, switches, contacts with no resolve or none that I can find... or they are repaired and their thread/forum is not responded to. So here is another thread and I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction... and I WILL post a resolve, if I get one. Thanks in advance for your time reading and responding to the novel I typed above, lol.

I just bought a salvage title 2008 Crew Cab pickup. It wont start in the morning. At first the starter wouldnt engage, so I had a new starter put in. It ran fine all day yesterday and now this morning it just turns over and over. It is -10 degrees out. When it was at the mechanic it started everytime for them. There are no error codes either.

I have 97 sierra with the 4l60e transmission. It runs great but for some reason it won't move far. As soon as I start it up I can put it in any gear and it will go like its supposed to. But about 10-15 seconds later it will slip out and not move at all in any gear warm or cold. I can then shut it off and start it back up and repeat this. It will spin the tires but only for 10 seconds. The fluid is at the correct level and I checked the pump by checking the fluid while off then starting and checking the fluid while its running and the level goes down like it should. Please someone help me!