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Found 20 results

  1. Need Help Please!!!! I truly appreciate anyone that reads this long post. Hopefully someone can help me figure this out. Bought my 2017 Silverado CrewCab LT Z71 new. For 5 yr & 10 mo. the temp gauge sat at 210 with no issues and no variation. Then, in June 2023 the temp started rising about 10 degrees and would fluctuate from there back to normal. Thermostat was replaced, didn’t resolve the issue. Temp sensor was replaced, didn’t resolve the issue. Truck is well maintained, radiator/coolant flushes done a normal intervals with no issues found. Dealership has checked out this issue 3 times and says it’s operating as normal, temp fluctuation is normal. I have been calling BS on this since June, how is this normal? Almost 6 years with no variance but now it’s normal? So here I am in October, with continued temp issues that are anything but “normal” The temp gauge has progressively increased, the gauge goes up to 245-250 then will drop back down to 210 and fluctuates between 210 - 230/235 as the drive continues. Things to note: I have never had a Check Engine light, adding to the frustration. Coolant level doesn’t change, no leaks whatsoever. This temp issue does not happen when idling. I’ve idled for 20-30 min both from cold and after driving with the issue happening, no fluctuation. I have thought through some other possible issues but then wonder could it be “this” when the issue is not consistent or throwing codes. Are the active shutters not opening / operating correctly, that should throw the check engine light Belt is loose, again should be a more consistent issue with sounds and other functions having issues. Water pump going out, again I think that would cause more consistent issues and would overheat the engine. Fan(s) going out, wouldn’t that be more of an issue when idling vs driving and would be a more consistent issue. Could this be some other sensor, relay, electrical issue. Any help, experience, and/or suggestions you have on this issue are greatly appreciated.
  2. Recently bought a leather steering wheel from a 2012 2500 sierra. I swapped it into my 2007nnbs silverado ls/base model. I've searched for hours trying to find the correct information on what I need to get the radio controls to work. The harness that came with the wheel had 1 more wire than the ls model did. Original harness had 6 wires. New wheel had 7 wires. Everything I looked up said the swap should be plug and play. But it is not. I need some help to know what I really need? New clockspring? Different harness? Harness behind clockspring? Or is it just not compatible at all? Picture is of new steering and harness that came with it Thanks everyone!
  3. Hey guys so I asked on Facebook and I didn't really get very far so I figured I'd bring it up here. 120,000 mi completely stock. Here's what's going on. so with the converter locked and I believe in 5th gear around 1500 RPM I randomly get what feels like a misfire when applying light throttle until the turbo spools up. I bought this truck from an auction all the glow plugs were bad replaced all those. The truck had some dead battery issues right before it went to auction so I looked at the stored codes but ended up clearing them because a lot of them were communication codes which would be related to a dead battery. All filter replaced, all fluids (except trans and xfer) replaced. I meant to write down the actual codes but one of them was for EGR and the other ones was for glow plugs. I've replaced the glow plugs everything is completely fine as far as that goes. the filter head does like to lose a little bit of prime overnight so if I just fire it up first thing in the morning it'll run a bit rough if I put about two pumps onto the primer it runs completely smooth after start. I have conflicting data from different scan tools some of them are showing the EGR experiencing large error % as far as deviation. My all tell is showing small amount of error (2% at idle) but not enough to trigger a code. Doesn't feel like 605 torque if I'm honest. Pretty sure my 8.1 could out pull it at this point. Here are the fuel numbers Attached is some OBD live data First few are some screen shots. The one with the date is the most recent. Here is a link to the EGR doing it thing last week while I drove around town. Big drive south (AK to AZ) supposed to start tomorrow night. But I don't want it to brake down in the middle of nowhere.
  4. So I was pretty stupid yesterday and I just got a this beautiful 2016 1500 30k miles in the crimson red and it came with theses butt ugly pinstripes so of course I did what any one would and went and got a 3M Pinstripe eraser wheel and took it to the pinstripes and my speculation is that I had the drill on too high of a setting possibly on the first section as you can see in the pictures it left like a yellowish streak mark in the paint. Then I turned the drill way done and suprize suprize the rest of the truck looks flawless. So what do you all recommend I do to correct that section? I’m really not even sure what to call the damage. Burnt? Thanks in advance.
  5. Thanks for the add. Greetings All!! Going to start my membership, by asking what I hope is an easy question. On an online site, they have a deal on a power retractable tonneau cover that I really like, (like same price as non-powered), but I also just installed a Weather Guard tool box. My hope/want is that I can put the retractable canister in back of the toolbox, (tailgate side) and then mount my onboard air tank under it, with the compressor in the toolbox. Finally my question is; will the electric cover stop at my tailgate automatically? I understand I have to cut the rails to accept the canister in the different location, but the cover stopping in the correct stop has me guessing what other mods I’ll have to do. please help ASAP, as I do not know how long this deals gonna last. Thank you! Collin 2018 GMC Sierra Denali 3500hd
  6. The transmission went out last November in my 98 k1500. I started it up a few times afterwards ( over the coarse of a month or so ) with the transmission still out. I have let it sit since then . I am fixing to get the transmission rebuilt and get it back on the road , but for some reason the Anti theft or “passlock” system has activated . It won’t let me do the “relearn procedure” either . I have no idea why it has activated and don’t have the money to by a new bcm or ecm. Can someone explain why it activated ?
  7. Hi... im in need of the spring arm assembly from a monroe hauler air suspension. Having some trouble locating one.. yes I've called monroe. Yes I've called some junk yards. YES I GOT RIPPED OFF FROM A GUY A DAY BEFORE X MAS SAYING HE HAD 2 OF THEM. YES IM AN IDIOT. I'm giving this one last try before I go ahead and make it 4 link.. she needs to get back on the road asap. Love Ed
  8. So this one is a little complicated I drive a 2011 GMC sierra denali, it has the 6.2L V8 with long tube headers and cold air intake. It has also been tuned trying to fix the issue with no luck. While driving about 30-40 mph it begins to buck or lag like the truck is misfiring but there are no codes and i dont believe it is actually misfiring. it seems to struggle unless i am on the gas constantly. It has a similar issue when in the 50-60 mph range as well. Any other time the truck seems to run fine. The best way to describe the anomaly is it seems to oscillate almost for the time it does this instead of smooth acceleration or smooth cruising. It isnt the tac either, it can be heard in the exhaust that it is not running smooth. The things i have done chasing the problem: New injectors, new spark plugs, oil catch can, new spark plug wires, tune, replaced transfer case, cleaned throttle body, new throttle position sensor, new crank shaft position sensor, cleaned all grounds, new MAF, new MAP, new o2 sensors, new air intake manifold. I am starting to think this truck will never be fixed. HELP WANTED lol Thank you for your time.
  9. I have a 99 gmc sierra that I just bought. While im driving down the road I noticed a whine in the drivetrain, I noticed that the 4wd switch wasnt lighting up so I checked the fuses and the ATC fuse had been removed. I put in the correct fuse and the 4wd switch came on. Once it came on it said the truck was in 4hi. I tried to switch it into 2hi and theres a whining noise coming from the transfer case. It makes 2 long whining noises and the 2hi light flashes the it goes right back to 4hi. I cant get it to change into any other mode (4lo, auto4, 2hi). I bought the truck a week ago and im scared im going to grenade the transfer case by driving it like this. Can you please point me in the right direction.
  10. So I have 1997 suburban 1500 2wd 5.7l went to install a train nor the other day didn't get around to it I might add. Had battery disconnected for a bit. Next day it started out driving fine. Felt a wierd flutter going down the highway. Stopped at the store and could barely reverse took basically sitting on the pedal keeping rpm a little over 1200. Went in to drive just fine. By the next stoplight take off felt sluggish. Now it will barely get to moving at all. Electrical issue or what???? RpMs solid at idle around 650, doesn't have the mysterious rough idle or anything like that chased that's thru a full engine rebuild just about with my last suburban. Haven't had this one too long but seemed well taken care of I'm the second owner a school had it before me. So I figure all the maintenance was kept up. Got about 145,000 miles on it trans fluids clean and around proper levels. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping its not a transmission failure don't see that just happening out of the blue without prior signs or behavior
  11. Reaching out to see if anyone else has experienced this. I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 All Terrain with the 5.3. I’m having problems with starting this thing from time to time. It will run fine for a few days and fire right up every time I get in it. However some days on a cold start or after driving awhile and stopping, when I get in to start it up I got all dash lights are working, except I notice my MPG history is erased (which tells me we’re in trouble) then I get messages on the dash that reads, service trailer brake system, service stabilitrac, power steering reduced. Then the check engine light will appear. When I try to crank everything goes black and I’m not hearing clicks from the engine. After I let it set for about 5 minutes it will fire right up no hesitation. I run the codes on it and there’s is a laundry list of codes, which the GMC dealership is saying they’re all low voltage codes...so we swap the battery truck, it runs fine for about a week and a half and then starts doing the same thing. Alternator is ok because I can see it recharging the amps on the truck....any ideas as to why might cause all this? I’m desparate!!!
  12. Unexpected opportunity to buy a 2012 Yukon XL Dinali, 140,000 miles. Worried that the mileage is high but the price seems decent at 12,500. Exterior is immaculate except for a little rust about the size of a nickel inside the door rocker panel. Has recently had new brakes and left suspension leaving sensor replace, front stabilizer link replaced, rear drive shaft assembly replaced. I am hoping to know if I am in for known issues that will pop up. I ADORE the truck but need reliable and my money pit is empty. ThNk you in advance for any help!
  13. Hey! So, I'll give you the quick history... Over the last year we've replaced 3 coil packs. It started with a miss and the dealership recommended a top engine clean and repair of an engine mount. We did that and it didn’t fix it. So they changed one of the coil packs and that did fix it. Then a few months later the miss appeared again and a different dealership replaced another coil pack, at that time at the different dealer they also changed the spark plugs for the other cylinders on that bank (1,3,5 ), the coil pack they changed was #3. Then right before Christmas another coil pack. And now it started missing again and this time I took it to dealer and they said it was the #3 and #4 coil packs. Which the #3 was just changed in July. That one is covered under the GM 2 year parts and labor warranty and at the local dealer we go to they said they didn't record which coil packs they changed before ??. But I had record from the other dealership that it was #3 for the one in July. My question is, what is causing these failures? To have the dealer fix them is like 400 each time! I'm probably going to do the fixing myself from here on if this keeps happening. I just want to understand why it's failing? Are they not gapping the plugs right? I would imagine they are checking for leaks and moisture once they are in there? I’m starting to not have any faith in them and want to understand everything better so I can be more knowledgeable and prepared for our next conversation at least.
  14. Hey guys, I got a 2015 Silverado 5.3l. 138,250km. started ticking sometime last winter. Would happen instantly at start up and last about 5 minutes then would fade away. Sounded like a lifter. Took it to the dealer they said they couldn't hear it. Sound went away so left it. Fast forward to this winter and as Soon as the weather started to cool down I noticed the ticking again. Took it back to the dealer said they couldn't hear it again. I went and picked up my truck right at closing, soon as I fired her up the sound was there but everyone was gone so no one to hear it. I took a video. Next day I called the dealer, sent the video. Took like a week to get back to me. In the meantime I had taken videos pretty much every time I started it. Long story short after a brief fight with them about them trying to say it's normal etc they agreed that it sounded like a noise coming from the valve train. Left my truck with them, they called me said they had to change all lifters. Went to pick up my truck and on start up the sound is still there. This was a month ago. Sent more videos and a previous video from before they did the work and they are saying they can't hear it again. Took it in in person they agreed that there's an issue again and they will look at it. Now they are saying it's possible bad injector noise but they can't figure out which one ?. In the meantime I took it to another dealership they changed the vacuum pump. After that the sound changed. Now it's no longer at start up but once the truck has reached operating temperature and is more of a dull sound. Took it back to that same dealer who did the vacuum pump and they said valve train noise and deffo not injectors. But they won't work on it because the other dealer already did. They didn't change the VLOM or the cam. I had/have no check engine lights. Truck runs awesome. Sometimes rough idle. Any ideas what it could be?
  15. What is the average repair cost for a fuel pump sending unit and float. On a 1998 Suburban 2500. Parts and labor included??
  16. I know the 6112s are semi-new to the community. My question is what would be the lowest possible notch I can install these and still have enough clearance to fit 275X 65R 20 KO2s. I’d imagine the notch settings are similar to the 5100s accept there is 1 extra notch I believe. I have been searching online for the past week and cannot find anyone that confirms the lowest possible setting to fit these tires. I know I can install them at the highest setting and fit just fine, But I am trying to keep rake in the rear due to occasional towing and i do not want to add a leveling block to the rears. I was thinking the third notch (1.25” of lift) would work but I’m not sure if It will get rubbing. Does anyone have any idea on this? I currently have a 2.5 inch leveling spacer but do not want to install it when I switch to the Bilstein 6112s. Thanks!
  17. So I’ve got a 95 Chevrolet c1500 pickup. I just put a new engine in it like two months ago. I have been trying to get the ac working since it’s over 100 degrees where I live. I bypassed the pressure clutch switch with paper clip and the clutch kicked on. So I got get a new switch thinking that will fix it with a can of Freon. Only used one can. While I was putting the Freon in the clutch started turning but it didn’t stay turning. It would cut on and off repeatedly. So I go pull the ac relay fuse out from under the hood and thinking I might have a bad relay. I did the paper clip thing again but I didn’t turn off the truck so it made a small spark and the clutch stopped turning all together. So I went in the truck and turned the fan and ac off. I found out that since the spark when I turn the fan on it automatically turns the ac off. And the there isn’t hardly any air flow coming out of vents but you can hear the fan cut on. If the fan is off the ac is on and the clutch is short cycling but will not stay on when I turn the fan on. I need helppppp. Did I short out the blower motor relay or what?
  18. It’s winter here so I went out yesterday to start my truck and the battery was dead. I put it on a trickle charger for about 7 hours, boosted it up “charger said 90%” when I took it off. I went to start my truck and it fired up immediately, my wipers turned on (to brush some snow off) and radio was playing. I turned it off then went to turn it back on it again fired right up easily then within seconds it slowly shut off. It sounded like something (a pump maybe) was still running while I had my key in (not sure exactly what it was). Read some things about changing a spark plug ? I will try this any other ideas of how to fix this ? Please help
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