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Showing results for tags 'injector'.
Found 7 results
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I have a question for the tech guys in the group. Have a 2017 suburban, with the big 5.3, 66,*** miles. I am experiencing some runablity issues that I am trying to diagnose. Symptoms include: -A rough idle when warm and in gear. It always starts good, and is smooth when warming up. -A hesitation when pulling away from a stop. The truck responds well initally, but then sort of falls off a bit. This is also noticeable when at speed on the freeway, if you give it just a touch of pedal, it feels like it loses a bit of power, but then comes back when lifting off the gas a bit. -When approaching a hill while cruising, if one gives a bit of throttle to compensate, it will begin to dog out a bit and can regularly feel like it is misfiring. I have had 1 instance of a flashing check engine light when giving a bit of throttle to compensate for a hill when it was not completely warmed up. The plugs were replaced as a health and inspection check, but they all like normal. I have not noted anything unusual with scan data that I can discern. Fuel trims are correct and no check engine light. I ran an injection balance test, and found some interesting information. All of bank 1 pressure drops were significantly different from bank 2. I did this yest at warm idle, then did another test at around 850 rpm, which yielded similar results. A little research led me to tsb notice N182198000, could this be 4 failing injectors, all on the same bank? I am not a parts cannon guy, and I'm not sure if this is covered under my used car warranty. I worry about dealer services, because I'm not sure they always take the time to accurately diagnose before throwing parts around. Thanks for any help, and sorry for the long post. Trying to be as accurate and descriptive as can. I will try to attach the results of the injector balance test as well.
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First post, So for the last 6 months or so my truck has been throwing P050D cold start rough idle. I'm at 36k on the truck and it's a 2015. I brought the truck into the shop for diagnostics. They confirmed that for 1-2 minutes on a cold start condition, cylinder 4 misfires for about a minute or two then stops. They confirmed this multiple times. They verified no vacuum leaks, spark plugs and ignition coils checked out fine, bore scoped the cylinders and found no issues and no coolant leaks, they did a bunch of rebalancing and program checks, verified the related sensors, essentially everything with the exception of checking the injector itself because of the process and time it takes to do so. I know that these newer trucks send double pulses to the injectors during cold start until the truck warms up then it goes back to normal pulse frequency. I guess my question would be what is more likely? The fact that the injector is bad or that during the cold start the injector isn't receiving the pulses? I imagine that all the injectors would be wired in parallel to an extend and that all injectors would essential receive the same signal so I feel that the later is less likely and more than likely the injector itself. But the auto shop won't confirm that the injector is the actual source of the issue because they couldn't test it.
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Looking for help/instructions on replacing fuel injector/s for a 2017 5.3L Silverado. Truck has 80K miles on it and a #5 misfire. Dealer ran a diagnostics and said the injector needs to be replaced. I found a couple pictures on the forum of the fuel injectors but very little information on steps to replace them. The only videos I could find online were for older models with a different injector diagram. Talking to the dealer they quoted me $770 to replace a single injector, gaskets and piping associated with the job. 4 hours or labor and $240 in parts. Are there any good instructions or videos out there on replacing fuel injectors on a 2017 Silverado? I've never done a job like this but consider myself mechanically include, is this an easy enough job or should I leave this to the dealer to do? I know they say if your replacing a single injector you might as well replace all 4 on one bank but is that really necessary, $110 a piece and if the other 3 are fine why replace them? The dealer said the piping and gaskets must be replaced even for a single injector replacement job. Is this all necessary? I've never had another vehicle with injector problems so this will be a first. Parts quoted- 12687650 (1) injector 12626354 (8) gaskets 12677002 (1) pipe 12677004 (1) pipe Any help, links to instruction/diagrams or videos would be awesome! I enjoy working on these projects rather than paying someone else to do the work since you learn something every time. I also want it done right. Thanks all in advance!
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2000 Suburban 5.3L. I'm having problems with the injector circuit for cylinder 3 in my car. I removed the connector on the injector and verified that it's getting power (constant 12V when key in ON position and 14V when engine is running). When a test light was put on the ground terminal it illuminated but didn't pulse. When I looked at the voltage though, it was bouncing all over between 0 and 14V. I turned the car off and noticed the ground terminal had 1.7 kOhms resistance to ground when the engine is off. Thought that was funny as it shouldn't be connected to ground when the car is off and if there was a short, the resistance should be 0. I traced the wiring and didn't see anything wrong. I then found a diagram for the ECM connectors, located the terminal for the cylinder 3 injector (ironically terminal #3) and found the same 1.7 kOhm resistance to ground at this terminal. This was the terminal on the actual ECM not the wiring harness. 1. Is this sufficient evidence that the ECM is bad? 2. Can I just go to a junkyard and pull an ECM out of another 2000 Suburban with the 5.3L and put it into my car with no problems? 3. If not, does anybody have experience with flashmastersecm.com? Judging from ebay, they look reputable.
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Hi there, So I ride a 18 Sierra 1500 with the 5.3L and keep getting gas in my oil, my high pressure fuel pump let go in March of 2019 (40000kms ish) and was the first time I got gas in the oil, they replaced it and it was good until late December of 2019, I drove 800 kms to home, parked at the restaurant and went to go home and got a bunch of codes, saying that bank was to lean, bank 1 to rich, bank 2 to lean, bank 2 to rich and a open circuit fault code. The truck was in limp mode but got it to the dealership, they found a short to a relay for the hp fuel pump and my crank case filled with gas (same as the last time but now the truck at 69000kms) they tested the O2’s, fuel injectors, injector cycles and such, they all passed the test so they figured the hp fuel pump went, so they replaced it. I then drove not even 3000kms and my truck was doing 33L/100kms downhill at 104km/h, no codes or engine lights. Checked the oil and it was over filled and smelled of gas, brought into the dealership and they said the Intake tube after the MAF was loose causing the engine to over fuel, now not even 2000kms (3 weeks) into the dealership “fixing” the issue, my oil is over filled and smells strong like gasoline. Any ideas on what the issue could be? I don’t want to keep paying for an oil change every 2-3000kms and 100$ deductible for my extended warranty. I know it’s not healthy for the engine and GM Canada won’t do anything about it.. Any ideas as to what the issue might be would be awesome, thanks
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I wanted to get some opinions...I was one of the lucky ones that my truck gave me a p050D code...ended up being a new injector...while they were working on it, i asked them to pull the spark plug and see if it was ok...here are some pics...they arent great, but see if you have seen anything like this...there is almost blistering going on...and also some odd wear on the back of the electrode...thoughts? anyway...as much as it sucks paying for the repair, the dealership wanted a grand and i got it done for 1/2 that...runs much better now... anyone else get this sort of wear on their spark plugs? should i go ahead and replace all of them? (i only replaced the one that was associated with the bad injector, #8)
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I think I might have an injector issue. I'll first give the symptoms and what I've done to diagnose it, but the one thing I cannot find on here or the interwebs is how to replace the fuel injectors on my L86 engine. I understand it's a GDI engine and not as simple as a port fuel injection engine, but I figured there'd be something out there...no go. I'm pretty sure I've read every thread on here about cold start/injector issues, but pardon me if I state something that's already been said. Not looking to rehash any other threads, just get thoughts on my situation and others experience with replacing these GDI injectors. My truck is a 2016 GMC Sierra Denali, 6.2L, 8 speed, 75k miles. Only run 93 octane fuel and all routine maintenance is completed on-time or early by me. Only use top end recommended products in all maintenance. Symptoms/Diagnosis My issue is only a cold start issue and it's intermittent, but now happening more frequently. It drives fine with full-power and has no other issues. The cold start issue first came up around 70k miles when I did an auto-start in my driveway. I could hear the truck struggling to keep rpm's, it sounded like it was barely chugging along. I opened the door and looked at the rpm's and they were bouncing like crazy. Truck stalled out and threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire (P0303). I cleared it and it started up perfectly. I chalked it up to it needing spark plugs/wires replaced (had original OEM still in). I did so the next weekend with the OEM ACDELCO iridium plugs and Taylor 10MM racing wires (much better than stock). She cold started flawlessly for the next 5k miles and the issue was long gone in my mind. Fast forward about 3 weeks ago when it did it again after sitting in my work parking lot all day. The code this time was P0106 (MAP Pressure Sensor reading issue). I installed a CAI system (aFe Power Momentum GT) around 72k miles, so I figured maybe I accidentally messed up the MAF sensor in the install (even though it was fine for 3k miles). So I replaced the MAF sensor. Was fine until a week ago, when it had another rough cold start but didn't throw a code. I assumed it was the P0106 code again so I replaced the MAP sensor this time. Good for another week and now it's had 2 rough starts this week and stalled once right after starting, so getting progressively worse. This time it threw the P0303 code again. I happen to be borrowing a tech tool and did a diagnostics check on the cylinders and it showed cylinder 3 has had 699 misfires, the next highest was 19 (both cylinders 6 and 8). I also checked the code history on the ECM and it showed P0106 (map sensor pressure fault), P0300 (multiple misfires), and P050D (cold start rough idle). I read the cold start rough idle can also mean coolant is leaking into the oil and/or through the head. I have not noticed my coolant running low, regardless I change my oil and just did it as recently as last weekend, but it's never looked milky or smelled like coolant. I also checked all the head bolts and around the head gaskets - didn't see any coolant. Ruling everything out to this point, all I'm left with is bad seals on injector 3 that's allowing leak back during initial engine start - causing the misfires on cylinder 3. What's strange is that about 20 seconds after start-up the idle evens out and drives smoothly the entire time. It's only a rough cold start intermittently (getting more frequent), but no other issues. Am I missing anything? How-to on replacing GDI fuel injectors? I've read how costly it is for a shop to change out these GDI fuel injectors so I was hoping to do this on my own. I do 90% of my repairs/maintenance - with exceptions to major work. This is the first GDI engine I've owned so I don't want to jump into something and cause more damage - but I feel confident I can learn and do it right. Are there any instructions/how-to's on doing this job? From what I understand, with a GDI engine the pressure is much greater in the fuel lines so it's important to properly relieve the pressure. Also, I've read that I may need to replace the fuel injector rails/lines when I replace any injectors due to the stainless steel being so soft that it will leak in no time after replacing only the injectors. I don't mind spending money on the right tools if it'll save me money in the long run. Thoughts on doing the job myself? PS - I've searched YouTube and Google for ANY instructions (even for other GDI engines) and have found nothing on how to bleed the fuel pressure, just videos about putting on new injector gaskets.
