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Found 37 results

  1. Hey guys, I'm trying to determine if an l86 intake bolts up fine to the stock l83 heads? Reason i'm asking is I have a chance to get a blower kit at a crazy deal from local shop but its for a 6.2 truck. I'm not worried about tuning as it will be dyno tuned, just wondering if I'm going to run into issues with ports not lining up or if they'll even bolt together. Thanks in advance
  2. Has anyone installed a water/methanol inject kit on any of the small blocks (2014-2018)? I personally have the LV3 4.3L V6. Looking to eliminate the carbon build up, caused by direct injection, on the intake valves. Right now I'm trusting that Sea Foam is doing the job every 30k miles. EDIT* I'm also interested in the increased performance after tuning. I am aware that a catch can would eliminate the majority of carbon build up on the valves.
  3. Always Start with disconnecting Battery Terminal. REMOVE AIR BOX ASSEMBLY. Disconnect Vacuum push connections A's. Unscrew Air Box from Throttle body. Pull away from Manifold. 4. Unscrew MAF using Torques bit. 5. Pull up on red tab on MAF. Press and pull up to remove. 6. Unscrew C-clamp on filter box and remove assembly.
  4. I figured I would share some info about my install of the L86 intake and throttle body. I was trying to find some information, but it was hard to come by. Boredom got the best of me and I found out that the L86 was a direct swap for the 5.3L L83. What made it worse, was the fact that the mod was $250 (with factory, non-ported TB). I couldn't not do it The main reason I was sold on this was seeing some low end results, looked liked some good torque gains. I also saw my MAP drop to 94 kPa WOT, making it clear there was restriction. I have the Elite E2 catch can (see notes on it below) so I did not need to get the PCV tube (and you should not either IMO, put a catch can on it). Here is a list of what I ordered: L86 intake 12639087 $105 Throttle body gasket 12639086 $7 Intake port gaskets 12626357 $4 each (need 8) Tony Mamo ported LT1 throttle body 3 7/8 inch diameter and 3 inch long silicone coupler for Airaid tube I ordered it all on Amazon, except for the throttle body. I decided to go with a ported throttle body based on reviews I saw online and the fact that I wanted to do it all once and be done. Tony always does great work so I have confidence buying from him. The throttle body shipped super fast! I have a few pictures attached, but I was too anxious to install everything and didn't take as much as I was hoping. Now for the install. I will try to go off memory the best I can. There are 4 bolts holding the intake cover on and several pop-in wire ties. I have some plastic trim tools and popped them out pretty easily. There are 4 in the back of the manifold cover that aren't quite as easy. By this point, I already had the Airaid tube off. I disconnected the throttle body harness and removed it. I also removed the MAP sensor and one other part (evap purge maybe?) from the front of the manifold. I removed the Elite catch can line as well. I believe at this point everything was disconnected. I removed the 10 manifold bolts and removed the cover and manifold together. I took a few shots down the intake ports. I attached one. I had 7000 miles at the time of the swap. I did Seafoam right before this swap as well. I wish I had some before and after shots for Seafoam. I did a little work to clean up some edges on the intake ports of the new manifold. There were some good edges so I just worked them down. The PCV tube on the L86 manifold sticks down right behind the throttle body. I was tempted to cut and clean this up flush with the inner wall but I left it. You can kind of see it in some of the pictures. One note before putting the new manifold on, put the old intake cover on first. I was not paying attention and missed the back side that would prevent it from being installed with the manifold on the truck. FYI - the 5.3L cover does fit the 6.2L manifold. For the install, manifold bolt torque is 44 in-lbs on the first pass and 89 in-lbs on the second pass. If you number the bolts front to back, driver side 1-5 and passenger side 6-10, the torque sequence is 3-8-9-4-2-7-10-5-6-1 The throttle body bolt torque is 89 in-lbs. The bolts threaded into plastic I just snugged up. I think the MAP sensor bolt is going into a threaded insert so I set that torque to 89 in-lbs as well since the bolt size was the same. I also wanted to share some findings on the Elite E2 catch can. Several people ask about the effectiveness. After the first 100 miles or so I was putting the correct coupler on the throttle body and took a look inside. You can see the oil residue on the PCV tube inside the intake. The Elite E2 is catching about 15 mL/500 miles. Obviously it isn't catching everything, but I did not expect it to. I would be interested to run some tests on others, but I don't have money to blow on that I am happy with the mounting of the can and the performance so far, but I can smell some slight oil pull at idle. I just assume the vapors are just passing through and the catch can is pulling out most of the aerosols. It would be nice if they tested and published some efficiency numbers, if I had to put a number on it I would call it 95% for aerosols. At the same time I did some mods to the air box. The first one I fully cut the insert. The intake noise was horrible and was vibrating stuff in the cab. I trimmed it back and only cut out the bottom opening. Quick calculations the throttle body area was around 5950 square mm. The factory air box has around 7000 square mm of open area. The lower cutout is around 1750 square mm. Looking percentage wise, the lower opening increased the opening more than proportional to the throttle body area change. There is still more intake noise like this, but it is mostly under high load and under 2000 RPM. Now the results of all this. The new intake was able to raise my manifold absolute pressure at WOT in the same gear near 5000 RPM from 94 kPa to around 97 kPa. My MAF frequency was consistently around 8700 Hz. With the new setup, I am around 9000 Hz. I have seen the mass airflow go from 32.0 lb/min to 34.2 lb/min. In the past with a calibrated MAF I (and others) have associated lb/min approximately HP/10. That being said, I don't expect this was a 22 HP gain at all. My point is, lacking any dyno numbers, this was a good move in a positive direction for the truck - less restriction and more air. As far as the throttle body, tip in throttle response is much smoother and accurate for my pedal input. I felt the truck was pretty responsive before with the tune, but there was always this weird spot at low throttle. It wasn't in the driver demand tables, I think it had to do with the odd lips in the throttle body. I don't have a before and after comparison of the same throttle body, but I am definitely glad I went ported after looking at crazy lips of the stock one. Rather than port it myself like I did for my LS1 (which didn't turn out too bad) I figured I would leave it to a pro this time With the electronic throttle control and torque based control of the ECM, it makes it hard to draw conclusions. On a cable driven throttle body, 10% before and after would make the truck feel faster after. That was simply because of the increase in throttle area and getting more airflow for a given input. Seeing these computers are looking for a torque to meet the driver demand, it isn't as noticeable, so I feel the low end gains are more real from a SOTP feel. WOT is hard to tell because the intake noise really threw me off. It sounded like a 100 HP gain after cutting the air box haha I am still running around to see if it did anything to fuel economy, but I keep getting messed up with weather or short drives to do a good comparison back and forth to work. I did average 19.8 MPG on back roads over 20 miles, that was also with the full air box cutout. The best I could do on drives to work had been 21.8 MPG for the last 25 miles and right at 19.0 MPG on a half tank. The 19 is pump verified, I think my calibration for the DIC is off on MPG for the 21.8 number. I suspect it will be closer to 21.5 actual. I have not confirmed the unit updates to that calibration at that high of a fuel economy. As for the tune, all this was post MAF and I had it calibrated already. I saw no change in the MAF, but I still need to go back with a WB for a final pass. I updated the throttle area to 4118 square mm (from a 6.2L tune) and intake manifold volume to 15,010 cubic centimeters (also from a 6.2L tune). I increased the airflow correlation for P0068 tests as well as lowered the power enrich TPS since a lower throttle position will result in a higher load with the increased area (less throttle input for same airflow).
  5. Good Afternoon fellow 6.2L enthusiasts. I apologize if this sounds like a commercial or a rant. I just like to share what I've experienced and discovered. So, I don't know about you, but I've been searching for a way to cram more air into my L86 that won't break the bank. I've done hours upon hours looking for the perfect bolt on's or practices that will help the block breath deeper. I've learned that swapping intake manifolds are not worth it however, porting makes it one bad ass manifold. (which i've done) I threw on an AFE CAI and that really helped get the air moving. (momentum GT pro 5R) Headers and a bigger full exhaust helps get the flow rolling. (I'm rocking TSP 1 7/8 Headers with a 3.5" full exhaust (catted with Cal Cats) and a Flowmaster Pro series Muffler) Cylinder Heads and a Cam shaft will transform your truck. (going with TSP Heads and a Trick Performance Cam package) And a basic tune wakes these bad boys up. (local dyno-tuner) That being said after the above you're looking anywhere between 430-530 HP N/A. Obviously the Cam specs are going to swing that number. Now, The one thing that I have NOT been able to find is a Larger Throttle body that will fit the L86 Stock Manifold. So I did what most have done and ported that sucker out. The only issue is it will never be larger than 87mm. Until this came along. https://www.bbkperformance.com/92mm-throttle-body-14-18-corvette-camaro-lt1.html FYI slight modification is required to the stock Manifold. You need to shave the base of the Vacuum port as well as the MAP sensor base for the frame to fit. Once that is done you're rocking. I was able to Port match the TB Bore to the manifold inlet and smooth out the transition. Honestly I can immediately feel the difference. When I get a little bandwidth I will throw on some videos of Cold/warm starts, take offs etc. If you have any questions feel free to reach out!
  6. Thinking about doing an intake, exhaust, and tune to my new-to-me 2017 Sierra 1500 5.3L 8 speed. I miss the throttle response my 2013 6.2L had, it would lurch forward at the slightest tap of the gas. I also want to hear the engine, its so quiet! Cold air intakes seem to be disputed for having any performance gains, so are they really worth the $$$ in terms of better air flow? healthier engine? sound? any words of wisdom? Your $0.02 is always appreciated! I'm looking at the Magnaflow 15267 catback as it seems to sound pretty good for what I'm going for. I've read that there is a flap in the factory exhaust system that creates back pressure for AFM shift into V4 mode. I do like V4 mode and would not want to go away with it. How can a catback system integrate this feature? Also, what would be the rough performance improvements if any from a catback exhaust? Any other options that would sound similar and perform better/keep V4 mode for around the same price as Mgnaflow (~$800)? As for the tune, I know ZERO about tuning but do want to get rid of the rev limiter, speed limiter, get some performance gains without having to put midgrade or premium fuel in. How does the tuning process work? about how much do they cost? how can it be adjusted in the future? I assume anything like this would void some sort of warranty? Anyone do something similar and can attest to their experience with an intake, tune, exhaust?
  7. ****PRICE DROP**** Just sold the Silverado and have a in great condition AFE Stage 2 intake and Range Technology unit for sale. Both items will be shipped in the original boxes and work great. Both items were from my 14' 5.3L Both items are located near Raleigh, NC. The intake was over $400.00 new. Asking for 310.00 Shipped. Only issue I had to slightly cut the end of the air hoses to make them fit. Absolutely sounds great under load. Asking 115.00 shipped for the range unit. Idea of what it does, I used it when towing to block out the cylinder deactivation. http://www.rangetechnology.com/pages/v8 If someone wants them both I'll ship them together for 340.00....which I think is a pretty solid deal. Payments are preferred and if sent through PayPal as a gift payment, I'll drop $10.00 from above prices.
  8. Alright, so I've literally spent probably 8 hours or so researching on this forum about exhaust and intake upgrades. (I have a '17 Sierra 5.3) Obviously the CAI horse has been beaten to death on pretty much every forum immaginable. I'm a Mechanical Engineer by trade so data goes a long way with me. From what I've seen, on this new Ecotec engine, you don't really gain a whole lot with a CIA, many have just resorted to the Airaid MIT, but even that only see's minimal improvements and only around 5,500 rpm. So I just opted to go with the AEM dry filter for a bit more flow, and call it a day. I've even thought about doing the airbox mod, but when I got everything apart, the cross sectional area of the square hole in the airbox looks to be about the same as the cross sectional area of the intake tube diameter...So whats the point? (unless I'm missing something). So I just left it at the new AEM filter and called it a day. I have the level and 33's on this truck, so I'm not looking to drag race it. Just get it to breath as well as possible. Any input or opinions on this setup would be appreciated. Now on to the exhaust. I plan to just do a muffler swap, so I bought a new Borla Pro XS. I've seen a TON of debate on "leave the resonator, remove the resonator, leave the flapper, remove the flapper". I dont want this thing to be loud. I just want it to sound good and "natural". So as I said, I just opted to leave everything stock and replace the muffler. HOWEVER, I scooted under the truck this morning just to take a look, and now I'm completely baffled (pun intended). It looks to me like the resonator on this truck is AFTER the muffler!?!? You have the giant oil barrel shaped muffler with the flapper just in front of it, then downstream you have a (roughly) 8" diameter round barrel which I can only assume is the resonator? So my question is, is that correct, or am I missing something? ...maybe I have it backwards? Also, is leaving the flapper and resonator the correct thing to do if I just want a slight sound upgrade? Thanks guys!
  9. I have been trying to figure out what the knobby round thing is on the very top front of the engine in my '17 3500 HD 6.0. It seems attached to the air intake. My guess would be that it's a resonator or something. I know that I'm not using proper terms here. But I gotta know. My '16 Sequoia had some sort of resonator on the intake and when I upgraded the CAI on that with the TRD kit, it made it sound a little louder and a lot better IMO. Please help before I go bonkers.
  10. Hello all, newbie here. I just bought my first ever brand new vehicle. I always bought a year or 2 old vehicles but, with the rebates GM were handing out new was as cheap as used. Anyway I have a blue 2018 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT. I love it! Things I've done so far is...2.5" rough country leveling kit, moto metal 970 rims, nitto ridge grappler 275/60/20 tires, few other minor things. I wanted ya'lls thoughts on adding flowmaster exhaust, k&n intake, color matching front and rear bumper (I know paint wont hold well on chrome but will eventually get after market front and rear bumpers anyway) want to color match the mirror caps, door handles, front grill, and paint the chrome running boards black. I plan on removing all the badges and chrome door trim as well. Thoughts???
  11. For sale I have my OEM Intake Manifold and OEM Airbox (filter included). I am in Houston, TX and if you have any questions on pricing, just shoot me a PM or call/text @ 405.642.9097 Intake manifold w/ bolts insulation & cover, $75 + Shipping Stock Airbox & rubber intake duct tube, $50 + Shipping Items removed off the truck at 6,000mi so they are almost brand new!
  12. I finally decided to bite the bullet and buy myself an AIRAID Modular Intake Tube for my 2015 L83 Silverado I was hesitant because i really dont like the stock air tube/box after the filter, but also didnt want to put a full on Cold Air Intake kit, since i like to go off road to he desert in dusty conditions. I made a video about the product and my thoughts on it and its performance, hope you enjoy and someone finds it useful Its pretty much a cosmetic mod, because i couldnt feel it over the Custom DiabLew Tune and the LongTubes/Exhaust Thanks for watching, and if you like my channel please subscribe, it really helps me a lot
  13. Deciding to sell my Airaid MIT. Its about 1yr old. Perfect condition. Will include all the hardware and hoses you need to install it. I had no fitment issues with this product and I'm pretty darn picky. Gives a great sound, cleans up the engine bay. I have paypal and an Ebay account since 2002 should you need reference. $100 shipped to your door. Pics available/will update later today.
  14. 2014 GMC Sierra (5.3) is in for various upgrades, so the following items will be available in about a week. NO REASONABLE OFFER REFUSED! -stock exhaust headers -20" OEM chrome rims -stock step bars -stock calipers/rotors/brake lines (50k miles) -stock air intake -1 autocal with unused blackbear tune -1 diablo tuning device (I need to check if tune can be transferred} -Rancho adjustable lift shocks
  15. 325 PayPal, or 275 PayPal gift shipped 2 day priority. Mails immediately . Around 10k on it. Never cleaned the filter as it’s not even dirty. But I’ll clean it and oil it before shipping as well.
  16. Hello, I had a couple of questions. First When i go to autozone.com and enter my vehicle there is two options for the 5.3 (7) or (0) What are the differences between the two? I have the (7) in my vin but I'm still not really sure what the differences are between the two engine codes. If there actually is a difference in performance or internal parts? Next, What are everyone's thoughts on disabling AFM my thought is its robbing me of some horse power and throttle response. I know i can get a tune to disable it but i wasn't sure about the pros and cons of that. I have heard after a while the engine will start eating oil because of AFM. I only have 84000 but still. I was also looking at getting a CAI between K&N and Volant I was leaning more towards Volant because of the closed intake box not sure if it has that much of difference but, i live in az and its dusty and when it gets muddy i don't want engine to be sucking up that water with the intake. I know the intake is not going to give me substantial amount of Hp or torque. The engine seems to breath better i have a friend with same truck and has K&N and it sounds really healthy and throaty. Pros cons on each? I have flowmaster super44 and love it I think that if i had an intake it would just sound even better. With that i was wondering for as cheap as it is with throttle body spacer if any one has really noticed a difference. Lastly seems like Diablotune is the way to go any other tuners that maybe a little cheaper that does all the same stuff? Thank you in advance Jordan
  17. Hello everyone! Here is one of our performance parts that are on sale through the end of the month. Combine with an AutoCal or other parts to get over $500 and save even more this weekend, Jan 20th - 22nd. Head on over to our store for more details and take advantage of our sale! http://store.blackbearperformance.com/ AFE 2014-2016 GM 5.3L/6.2L Momentum GT Pro 5R Intake System Part Number AFE54-74104 Click here to purchase http://store.blackbearperformance.com/AFE-2014-2016-GM-53L62L-Momentum-GT-Pro-5R-Intake-System_p_1373.html The Momentum GT sealed air intake system is designed using the most up to date engineering tools and techniques to provide you with the perfect blend of power and protection. This system is superior in every way. From the one-piece sealed housing, to the massive air filter, rotomolded tube and premium hardware. This intake is 50-state legal (CARB E.O Number D-550-13).
  18. I Just recently purchased a 14 Silverado with the 5.3. There are so many things i want to do includes -programmer -intake -exhaust "??? I would like to start with the intake but i cant make up my mind. Either Air Raid or KN. There is about a 150.00 price difference so i would like to go with the Least expensive witch is the KN but i would rather get the best the first time... Please give me opinions,
  19. Selling my Airaid MXP intake off my 2014 Silverado 5.3. Only has about 13K worth of drive time on the intake. Will include all hardware that it came with from Airaid. I will not be removing it til Thursday when my new intake comes in. Asking $250 shipped (firm) to the lower 48 states and will ship in original box it came in. Retails for damn near 400 dollars so low ballers don't contact me. PM me for fastest response. I will clean it up and re-oil the filter before I ship. Will fit 2014+ models with 5.3. Not sure about larger motors. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Performance-Parts/MXP-Series-Synthaflow-Cold-Air-Dam-Intake-System.aspx?t_c=74&t_s=6&t_pt=4555&t_pn=EVE200-285
  20. I have recently installed a K&N 71 series blackhawk intake with an airaid throttle body spacer on my 08 silverado 1500, there are no vacuum leaks and my check engine is on. Could this be from my 02 senor not used to the high flow and not reading right? I also have a magnaflow catback system and was wondering what i should do to fix this problem, ive been told a bung spacer could take the CEL away but wont run optimal and a tune would be the best for my truck so my ecu would recognize all of the new flow going on.
  21. I picked up a Volant 15260 for my '08 2500HD, 6.0L with mechanical fan. Volant also sells a 152606 for the truck with the only difference being the filter element. Volant offers a "PowerCore" filter that does not get oiled (Pro 5 filter) and is advertised a lasting longer and performing better. Between the price difference and many an extreme dusty drive, I opted for the Pro 5 filter. The main thing that attracted me to Volant was the box has a cover instead of full open. Like the stock box, the Volant draws air from the inner fender only the hole is larger, AND it also pulls from the front of the box plus another opening in the bottom. Volant sells a down tube that attaches to the bottom of the box and pulls air from behind the bumper as well - I did not opt for this. The install is seemingly pretty straight forward. Taking out the factory unit: Remove the engine cover to access the factory intake tube clamp, remove the MAF housing and set it aside, remove the intake tube, remove the box, and remove the base plate that the box sits on. Installation of the Volant: Bolt in the box (uses holes from OEM base plate), install the filter, install the MAF using the OEM coupler and clamp, install the Volant hump hose coupler (silicone) to the MAF housing and clamp, install the special Volant coupler to the engine side of the intake tube, connect the tube to the hump coupler and secure, connect the tube to the engine intake and secure. *** I did have to trim the fan shroud where the intake tube meets - photos have one shot with the tube pressing against the shroud, and one after it was trimmed *** The issue I ran into is the hump hose is too short. I ended up having to undo all the clamps and run everything "long" by only keeping enough mating surface to cover the clamps on both ends of the MAF housing, and on the hump couple to the intake tube. I took the issue to Volant and they responded by saying the hump hose only comes in one size and the I needed to attach everything in the order in which I already did. My guess is if I stretch the hump -- essentially flattening it to extend the coupler --it may hold, but that is more pressure than I want to put on the clamps plus it does not account for engine torque (would be maxed out on length). For now I am just going to monitor the connections. If they move I will pick up a length of turbo coupler and make my own. Using a DiableSport T1000 to monitor the intake and ambient air temp, over some mixed stop-and-go, with state roads and temps in the upper 90's, the intake temp averaged 6 degrees above the ambient air temp. Driving on the Interstate in low 70 degree temp, the intake was 3 degrees above ambient air. I think both of those numbers are very respectable. I put the stock tune back on the truck to test performance. Engine load barely touches 69% just as it shifts at 6k RPM with WOT. This is pretty normal for my truck with the stock tune. I do not have logging data from the stock tune to compare it to, and I am moving from a stock tire to 35's along with a new custom tune, so the engine load is really all I can point to for hard data. It does feel like the truck revs out a bit quicker, and you can hear a bit more noise from the engine compartment. Other observations: The filter did not come pre-oiled. Volant says the replacement filters are pre-oiled, so I expected the kit filter to be as well. The special coupler for the engine intake looks pretty decent, but you really need to crank on the clamp to get the slotted tube to bite on the engine intake, which deforms the coupler - a lot! Backing the clamp off just slightly makes the coupler look better but also allows the intake tube to slip. The airbox lid uses a Phillips screw driver instead of a torx head. No biggie either way, just a "huh" thing. The window on the airebox lid is nice. The OEM airbox tray says "DIESEL" so I guess someone did an engine swap (yes, before someone comments, it is sarcasm) $25 rebate does not suck. Photos attached...
  22. SOLD. Moderators can lock this thread. KN 6.2/5.3L Intake Kit 63-3082 $180.00 includes overnight shipping Offers will be considered. Applications list: http://www.knfilters.com/search/applications.aspx?prod=63-3082 This is off my 2014 and I just switched to a 2016 Silverado and am going a different direction with the setup. Filter is cleaned and I will re-oil it before shipping it out so it will be ready to install when you received it. All hardware included. I also upgraded the hose fitting couplers to the intake tube to metal fittings. I will include the vac tubes for the valve cover as well. SOLD. Moderators can lock this thread.
  23. Hey I have a 2013 GMC Sierra 5.3 that I love. It has a K&N Blackhawk CAI with a diablosport tuner on it. Exhaust wise, I started out with single in dual out flow master 40 series that I had fun with. The time came where I wanted louder so I welded in a Electric Cutout with a turndown. This mod has been a blast as it is really loud. The time as come to go louder The sad thing is that I live in an emissions county so I cannot just go straight up catless. Does anyone have any super loud, obnoxious, and crazy setups they can share with me?? Anything helps guys, thanks!
  24. Good afternoon, We are excited to announce that our 2014-2015 GM truck and SUV intake system is officially scheduled to be release/ for sale in early November! The new intake will have all the great benefits and features/construction as our previous GM truck and SUV intake system and will fit the following vehicles: 2014-2015 * Chevy Silverado 1500 * GMC Sierra 1500 * GMC Yukon/Yukon XL 2015 * Chevy Tahoe/Suburban 1500 You can also see our facebook post!
  25. Hello. I have had trouble starting this suburban in cold weather (15 degrees F and below) since I have owned it (8 years). Here are the symptoms: When it is that cold, the engine will misfire, and want to quit on startup. I need to rev the engine for the first minute or two to keep it running. Once it warms up, the misfire will be gone. When it is below zero, it won't start at all, unless the block heater is plugged in. When I try to start (without block heater) , it will crank and crank with no start. With block heater, once it starts, it will misfire for 5-10 mins, probably, until the idle is smooth. I have not seen misfiring under any other conditions with this engine. I pulled the codes, and found two evap codes (I think P0442 and P0453) which I suspect don't contribute to this problem. I have historically had P0446 codes (live on gravel, constantly plugged EVAP system, but that is another story....) To cope with the EVAP system plugging, I have kept the gas cap cracked open, otherwise the fuel tank will develop a bad vacuum. I suspect the gas cap causes the P0442, for sure. I also found a P0300, random misfire code stored. I assume this is during the aforementioned cold startup stumbling. I cleared the codes tonight, and will check them again in a day or so. Any thoughts?? I suspect bad intake gasket (never replaced it), but don't know for sure.
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