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Found 16 results

  1. SOLD The kit includes our billet aluminum check valves. If you are generating more then 12# of boost, you should opt for our high performance check valve. You will only need one to go on the intake manifold side of the system. The other side will still utilize the standard check valve. The Standard hose is Gates Push-Lok. This is a high quality hoses cut to fit Tahoes, Yukons, etc. You can replace hoses for $10 to get different lengths. https://rxcatchcans.com/ols/products/tracy-lewis-signature-series/v/TLP202
  2. I installed a Cold Air Inductions intake system on my truck and took it to a dyno to see if it made power... surprisingly it did lol...
  3. Hello everyone! Finally installed my UPR can and Airaid intake last week and wanted to give some feedback to anyone interested in something similar. Back story is that we bought a 2018 Yukon XL Denali in Dec then had all lifters n cam replaced 2 weeks after due to dreaded tick on engine with 33k miles. As tech said internals are clean, I decided to go with a can to protect investment especially aftering asking tech and service manager about them and its impact on the warranty. They stated as long as warranty claim isn't affected by catch can, there wouldn't be any issue. Anyways here's some pics of the installation (plenty of videos are available to walk you through it) The UPR kit is well designed for a clean and OEM look.
  4. I have the GM intake kit for my ‘17 Silverado part number 84016022 and I don’t recall instructions for the filter. The dry cone filter is part number 23231630 can it be cleaned or does it need to be replaced every so often? If cleaned, what is best way to do it? thank you much.
  5. Good Afternoon fellow 6.2L enthusiasts. I apologize if this sounds like a commercial or a rant. I just like to share what I've experienced and discovered. So, I don't know about you, but I've been searching for a way to cram more air into my L86 that won't break the bank. I've done hours upon hours looking for the perfect bolt on's or practices that will help the block breath deeper. I've learned that swapping intake manifolds are not worth it however, porting makes it one bad ass manifold. (which i've done) I threw on an AFE CAI and that really helped get the air moving. (momentum GT pro 5R) Headers and a bigger full exhaust helps get the flow rolling. (I'm rocking TSP 1 7/8 Headers with a 3.5" full exhaust (catted with Cal Cats) and a Flowmaster Pro series Muffler) Cylinder Heads and a Cam shaft will transform your truck. (going with TSP Heads and a Trick Performance Cam package) And a basic tune wakes these bad boys up. (local dyno-tuner) That being said after the above you're looking anywhere between 430-530 HP N/A. Obviously the Cam specs are going to swing that number. Now, The one thing that I have NOT been able to find is a Larger Throttle body that will fit the L86 Stock Manifold. So I did what most have done and ported that sucker out. The only issue is it will never be larger than 87mm. Until this came along. https://www.bbkperformance.com/92mm-throttle-body-14-18-corvette-camaro-lt1.html FYI slight modification is required to the stock Manifold. You need to shave the base of the Vacuum port as well as the MAP sensor base for the frame to fit. Once that is done you're rocking. I was able to Port match the TB Bore to the manifold inlet and smooth out the transition. Honestly I can immediately feel the difference. When I get a little bandwidth I will throw on some videos of Cold/warm starts, take offs etc. If you have any questions feel free to reach out!
  6. I figured I would share some info about my install of the L86 intake and throttle body. I was trying to find some information, but it was hard to come by. Boredom got the best of me and I found out that the L86 was a direct swap for the 5.3L L83. What made it worse, was the fact that the mod was $250 (with factory, non-ported TB). I couldn't not do it The main reason I was sold on this was seeing some low end results, looked liked some good torque gains. I also saw my MAP drop to 94 kPa WOT, making it clear there was restriction. I have the Elite E2 catch can (see notes on it below) so I did not need to get the PCV tube (and you should not either IMO, put a catch can on it). Here is a list of what I ordered: L86 intake 12639087 $105 Throttle body gasket 12639086 $7 Intake port gaskets 12626357 $4 each (need 8) Tony Mamo ported LT1 throttle body 3 7/8 inch diameter and 3 inch long silicone coupler for Airaid tube I ordered it all on Amazon, except for the throttle body. I decided to go with a ported throttle body based on reviews I saw online and the fact that I wanted to do it all once and be done. Tony always does great work so I have confidence buying from him. The throttle body shipped super fast! I have a few pictures attached, but I was too anxious to install everything and didn't take as much as I was hoping. Now for the install. I will try to go off memory the best I can. There are 4 bolts holding the intake cover on and several pop-in wire ties. I have some plastic trim tools and popped them out pretty easily. There are 4 in the back of the manifold cover that aren't quite as easy. By this point, I already had the Airaid tube off. I disconnected the throttle body harness and removed it. I also removed the MAP sensor and one other part (evap purge maybe?) from the front of the manifold. I removed the Elite catch can line as well. I believe at this point everything was disconnected. I removed the 10 manifold bolts and removed the cover and manifold together. I took a few shots down the intake ports. I attached one. I had 7000 miles at the time of the swap. I did Seafoam right before this swap as well. I wish I had some before and after shots for Seafoam. I did a little work to clean up some edges on the intake ports of the new manifold. There were some good edges so I just worked them down. The PCV tube on the L86 manifold sticks down right behind the throttle body. I was tempted to cut and clean this up flush with the inner wall but I left it. You can kind of see it in some of the pictures. One note before putting the new manifold on, put the old intake cover on first. I was not paying attention and missed the back side that would prevent it from being installed with the manifold on the truck. FYI - the 5.3L cover does fit the 6.2L manifold. For the install, manifold bolt torque is 44 in-lbs on the first pass and 89 in-lbs on the second pass. If you number the bolts front to back, driver side 1-5 and passenger side 6-10, the torque sequence is 3-8-9-4-2-7-10-5-6-1 The throttle body bolt torque is 89 in-lbs. The bolts threaded into plastic I just snugged up. I think the MAP sensor bolt is going into a threaded insert so I set that torque to 89 in-lbs as well since the bolt size was the same. I also wanted to share some findings on the Elite E2 catch can. Several people ask about the effectiveness. After the first 100 miles or so I was putting the correct coupler on the throttle body and took a look inside. You can see the oil residue on the PCV tube inside the intake. The Elite E2 is catching about 15 mL/500 miles. Obviously it isn't catching everything, but I did not expect it to. I would be interested to run some tests on others, but I don't have money to blow on that I am happy with the mounting of the can and the performance so far, but I can smell some slight oil pull at idle. I just assume the vapors are just passing through and the catch can is pulling out most of the aerosols. It would be nice if they tested and published some efficiency numbers, if I had to put a number on it I would call it 95% for aerosols. At the same time I did some mods to the air box. The first one I fully cut the insert. The intake noise was horrible and was vibrating stuff in the cab. I trimmed it back and only cut out the bottom opening. Quick calculations the throttle body area was around 5950 square mm. The factory air box has around 7000 square mm of open area. The lower cutout is around 1750 square mm. Looking percentage wise, the lower opening increased the opening more than proportional to the throttle body area change. There is still more intake noise like this, but it is mostly under high load and under 2000 RPM. Now the results of all this. The new intake was able to raise my manifold absolute pressure at WOT in the same gear near 5000 RPM from 94 kPa to around 97 kPa. My MAF frequency was consistently around 8700 Hz. With the new setup, I am around 9000 Hz. I have seen the mass airflow go from 32.0 lb/min to 34.2 lb/min. In the past with a calibrated MAF I (and others) have associated lb/min approximately HP/10. That being said, I don't expect this was a 22 HP gain at all. My point is, lacking any dyno numbers, this was a good move in a positive direction for the truck - less restriction and more air. As far as the throttle body, tip in throttle response is much smoother and accurate for my pedal input. I felt the truck was pretty responsive before with the tune, but there was always this weird spot at low throttle. It wasn't in the driver demand tables, I think it had to do with the odd lips in the throttle body. I don't have a before and after comparison of the same throttle body, but I am definitely glad I went ported after looking at crazy lips of the stock one. Rather than port it myself like I did for my LS1 (which didn't turn out too bad) I figured I would leave it to a pro this time With the electronic throttle control and torque based control of the ECM, it makes it hard to draw conclusions. On a cable driven throttle body, 10% before and after would make the truck feel faster after. That was simply because of the increase in throttle area and getting more airflow for a given input. Seeing these computers are looking for a torque to meet the driver demand, it isn't as noticeable, so I feel the low end gains are more real from a SOTP feel. WOT is hard to tell because the intake noise really threw me off. It sounded like a 100 HP gain after cutting the air box haha I am still running around to see if it did anything to fuel economy, but I keep getting messed up with weather or short drives to do a good comparison back and forth to work. I did average 19.8 MPG on back roads over 20 miles, that was also with the full air box cutout. The best I could do on drives to work had been 21.8 MPG for the last 25 miles and right at 19.0 MPG on a half tank. The 19 is pump verified, I think my calibration for the DIC is off on MPG for the 21.8 number. I suspect it will be closer to 21.5 actual. I have not confirmed the unit updates to that calibration at that high of a fuel economy. As for the tune, all this was post MAF and I had it calibrated already. I saw no change in the MAF, but I still need to go back with a WB for a final pass. I updated the throttle area to 4118 square mm (from a 6.2L tune) and intake manifold volume to 15,010 cubic centimeters (also from a 6.2L tune). I increased the airflow correlation for P0068 tests as well as lowered the power enrich TPS since a lower throttle position will result in a higher load with the increased area (less throttle input for same airflow).
  7. Hey guys, I'm trying to determine if an l86 intake bolts up fine to the stock l83 heads? Reason i'm asking is I have a chance to get a blower kit at a crazy deal from local shop but its for a 6.2 truck. I'm not worried about tuning as it will be dyno tuned, just wondering if I'm going to run into issues with ports not lining up or if they'll even bolt together. Thanks in advance
  8. Has anyone installed a water/methanol inject kit on any of the small blocks (2014-2018)? I personally have the LV3 4.3L V6. Looking to eliminate the carbon build up, caused by direct injection, on the intake valves. Right now I'm trusting that Sea Foam is doing the job every 30k miles. EDIT* I'm also interested in the increased performance after tuning. I am aware that a catch can would eliminate the majority of carbon build up on the valves.
  9. Always Start with disconnecting Battery Terminal. REMOVE AIR BOX ASSEMBLY. Disconnect Vacuum push connections A's. Unscrew Air Box from Throttle body. Pull away from Manifold. 4. Unscrew MAF using Torques bit. 5. Pull up on red tab on MAF. Press and pull up to remove. 6. Unscrew C-clamp on filter box and remove assembly.
  10. Thinking about doing an intake, exhaust, and tune to my new-to-me 2017 Sierra 1500 5.3L 8 speed. I miss the throttle response my 2013 6.2L had, it would lurch forward at the slightest tap of the gas. I also want to hear the engine, its so quiet! Cold air intakes seem to be disputed for having any performance gains, so are they really worth the $$$ in terms of better air flow? healthier engine? sound? any words of wisdom? Your $0.02 is always appreciated! I'm looking at the Magnaflow 15267 catback as it seems to sound pretty good for what I'm going for. I've read that there is a flap in the factory exhaust system that creates back pressure for AFM shift into V4 mode. I do like V4 mode and would not want to go away with it. How can a catback system integrate this feature? Also, what would be the rough performance improvements if any from a catback exhaust? Any other options that would sound similar and perform better/keep V4 mode for around the same price as Mgnaflow (~$800)? As for the tune, I know ZERO about tuning but do want to get rid of the rev limiter, speed limiter, get some performance gains without having to put midgrade or premium fuel in. How does the tuning process work? about how much do they cost? how can it be adjusted in the future? I assume anything like this would void some sort of warranty? Anyone do something similar and can attest to their experience with an intake, tune, exhaust?
  11. ****PRICE DROP**** Just sold the Silverado and have a in great condition AFE Stage 2 intake and Range Technology unit for sale. Both items will be shipped in the original boxes and work great. Both items were from my 14' 5.3L ? Both items are located near Raleigh, NC. The intake was over $400.00 new. Asking for 310.00 Shipped. Only issue I had to slightly cut the end of the air hoses to make them fit. Absolutely sounds great under load. Asking 115.00 shipped for the range unit. Idea of what it does, I used it when towing to block out the cylinder deactivation. http://www.rangetechnology.com/pages/v8 If someone wants them both I'll ship them together for 340.00....which I think is a pretty solid deal. Payments are preferred and if sent through PayPal as a gift payment, I'll drop $10.00 from above prices.
  12. Alright, so I've literally spent probably 8 hours or so researching on this forum about exhaust and intake upgrades. (I have a '17 Sierra 5.3) Obviously the CAI horse has been beaten to death on pretty much every forum immaginable. I'm a Mechanical Engineer by trade so data goes a long way with me. From what I've seen, on this new Ecotec engine, you don't really gain a whole lot with a CIA, many have just resorted to the Airaid MIT, but even that only see's minimal improvements and only around 5,500 rpm. So I just opted to go with the AEM dry filter for a bit more flow, and call it a day. I've even thought about doing the airbox mod, but when I got everything apart, the cross sectional area of the square hole in the airbox looks to be about the same as the cross sectional area of the intake tube diameter...So whats the point? (unless I'm missing something). So I just left it at the new AEM filter and called it a day. I have the level and 33's on this truck, so I'm not looking to drag race it. Just get it to breath as well as possible. Any input or opinions on this setup would be appreciated. Now on to the exhaust. I plan to just do a muffler swap, so I bought a new Borla Pro XS. I've seen a TON of debate on "leave the resonator, remove the resonator, leave the flapper, remove the flapper". I dont want this thing to be loud. I just want it to sound good and "natural". So as I said, I just opted to leave everything stock and replace the muffler. HOWEVER, I scooted under the truck this morning just to take a look, and now I'm completely baffled (pun intended). It looks to me like the resonator on this truck is AFTER the muffler!?!? You have the giant oil barrel shaped muffler with the flapper just in front of it, then downstream you have a (roughly) 8" diameter round barrel which I can only assume is the resonator? So my question is, is that correct, or am I missing something? ...maybe I have it backwards? Also, is leaving the flapper and resonator the correct thing to do if I just want a slight sound upgrade? Thanks guys!
  13. I have been trying to figure out what the knobby round thing is on the very top front of the engine in my '17 3500 HD 6.0. It seems attached to the air intake. My guess would be that it's a resonator or something. I know that I'm not using proper terms here. But I gotta know. My '16 Sequoia had some sort of resonator on the intake and when I upgraded the CAI on that with the TRD kit, it made it sound a little louder and a lot better IMO. Please help before I go bonkers.
  14. Hello all, newbie here. I just bought my first ever brand new vehicle. I always bought a year or 2 old vehicles but, with the rebates GM were handing out new was as cheap as used. Anyway I have a blue 2018 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT. I love it! Things I've done so far is...2.5" rough country leveling kit, moto metal 970 rims, nitto ridge grappler 275/60/20 tires, few other minor things. I wanted ya'lls thoughts on adding flowmaster exhaust, k&n intake, color matching front and rear bumper (I know paint wont hold well on chrome but will eventually get after market front and rear bumpers anyway) want to color match the mirror caps, door handles, front grill, and paint the chrome running boards black. I plan on removing all the badges and chrome door trim as well. Thoughts???
  15. From the album: mods

    K&N intake
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