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Showing results for tags 'key'.
Found 20 results
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I have a 2019 Chevy Silverado 1500 and my key fob only has the lock/unlock, and the panic button on it. I saw that the official Chevy accessories page has the key fobs with remote start, tail gate unlock on them as well. If I get one, will I be able to have the dealership program it on my current truck so I can have remote start or is this only for replacement for owners that already have the same key fob? 5 Button Keyless Entry Remote Key Fob Part No. 84312372 https://accessories.chevrolet.com/product/2019/Chevrolet/Silverado 1500/5-button-keyless-entry-remote-key-fob-84312372?categoryId=12001 Thanks much! -
I recently purchased a 2005 Silverado 1500 and it came with two keys (both well used) that appear to be perfectly identical. However, one of them always turns the ignition with no issues and one of them turns the ignition only after wiggling it for several seconds. There must be some imperceptible difference between the keys but I'm trying to decide if it's more likely a bad key or an ignition tumbler that's at the end of its life. I know they're both pretty cheap fixes but I was wondering if anyone has any insight
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Hey all, I have looked and looked for more clear instructions on how to program a second key fob for my 2020 Silverado (dealership lost 2nd set). I live 8 hours from where I bought the truck and the dealership I bought it from would need the truck to program it. I am trying to do it myself. I have followed this guide but still no luck. The youtube video that is out for it is if you are programming a key fob without already having one programmed. It wasn't much help for me. Any GM Mechanics have a quick write up they can copy and paste would be appreciated. These are the two things that haven't been enough help for me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=228&v=TUGuBOYIGr4&feature=emb_logo https://www.programyourremote.com/classified/2020-gmc-sierra-keyless-entry-remote-fob-smart-key-programming-instructions-listing-9870.aspx Thanks in advance -
New member. Please let me know there's an error with my post. I've found two security issues on my 2019 Silverado and wondering if I'm missing something before contacting Chevy. 1. I can start the truck as usual with keys in the vehicle, then place the keys outside the vehicle and drive away, miles away, turn off the engine and restart the truck, repeatedly. It only presents a problem when you turn the truck off AND open the door. Then, it will not restart. 2. If you find the truck unlocked and you do not have your key fob, there is no way to lock the truck. You can press the lock button but it immediately unlocks. Any help is appreciated. -
Has anyone order an additional key when you purchased a new truck? I know the truck will come with two keys included, but I would like to purchase a third key. My dealer quoted me a cost of $200 for one additional key. Does this sound reasonable? Any other sources to buy a key cheaper? Thanks!
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I am looking to see if anyone has been able to program their own key fobs with any cheaper machines. I have seen the Dorman programmers on eBay and Amazon which can program a 2016 Sierra Key fob. I would like to purchase a programmer or something similar like a diagnostic tool that could also program my wife’s 2012 Malibu or at least the newer GM trucks. Has anyone had luck or know of anyone able to program keys and key fobs with any cheaper tools? Any info is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Hi, new member here! I've read a lot of helpful posts on this site and decided to join. It appears that by means of motor vehicles, some force in the cosmos is hell-bent on driving me insane, as every ridiculously simple process must be infinitely difficult and dreadful. Today's ridiculousness involves programing a key fob in my 2006 Silverado Z71 4x4. I've had the truck a couple weeks and it came with no key fobs. I decided to buy 2 from Amazon after noticing the truck has the AU0 RPO code, as well as power unlocks/windows, and no key cylinder on the passenger door. I've read the process online, watched youtube videos, yet when I try I am unsuccessful, and can't find anything related to the issue I am having. So here's the process: -key out, door open, sitting in driver seat- -shut door, insert key. Push and hold unlock, turn on-off-on-off (I've also tried on-acc-on-acc per some advice from another post on this forum). The moment the key passes the "ACC" point on the ignition cylinder the 2nd time, the doors locks cycle, and I release my finger from the unlock (exactly the same as every video I've seen on YouTube". The issue is, about 2-3 seconds after the door locks cycle and I've released my finger from the unlock button, the door locks will automatically cycle a 2nd time, and the horn will beep once. No matter how long I hold the lock and unlock button on the remotes, there is no response from the truck and the fobs will not work. Interestingly enough, no matter how carefully I perform the sequence or even if I'm trying to botch it, I get the exact same results. The door locks will cycle normally, then 2-3 seconds later cycle again and beep. This happens whether the driver door is open, or shut, or even if I have the truck on before starting the process. If I press the unlock-lock in the truck a million times after I release my finger, or if I just keep holding, no matter how many times I've tried releasing the unlock at different times, if I pour gasoline all over the driver door and set it on fire, drive it into the lake and perform it underwater holding my breath, it doesn't matter and I get the same response from the truck. No check engine lights, no security light issues, no abs lights, nothing else at all that suggests there's any wiring issues with the truck, everything works as it should. I have found one other post on the entire interwebz with someone having the same issue of the door locks cycling a 2nd time and the beep, but no helpful responses or solutions. So, has anyone ran into this issue before or have any advice? I'll be posting a video on youtube and adding the link later. Picture of RPO sticker attached. Thanks!
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I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 LT2, I bought it a week ago (got a steal, $15,000 and it's a crew cab!) but one of the reasons I was able to negotiate such a good price was because the windshield wipers didn't work and it wasn't just the fuse so the dealer didn't want to try to figure out the issue. After little research I discovered that occasionally on some trucks the engine fuse box has a wiring problem so it needs to be replaced. Easy fix, right? I buy one on eBay for $50 and replace it last night, takes 3 minutes. Turn the key to ON and the wipers work. Great, all is well I thought... ...then half an hour later I go to my truck to drive to a friend's house and when I turn the key to START the truck doesn't respond at all. I'm assuming my transponder key was tied to the fuse box somehow. I swap the fuse boxes and it starts right up but again, I have no windshield wipers. One option I have is to tear into the fuse box and repair the broken wire for my wipers but I would literally have to drill it out of its casing so I'm not trying to get in that deep. I would rather program the key to the new fuse box. But here's the catch 22, you need one programmed key to work before you can program another spare key. If I swap the fuse box and my wipers work, my key won't work and I can't program it or another spare. Is there another way to program a key? -
Hi guys, So, I recently had to replace the heater's blower motor in my 99 GMC Jimmy. In order to remove the blower motor, I had to take out the Battery, ECM, and Coolant Reservoir. After finishing up and reconnecting everything, I tried to start the truck to check if the blower motor worked (it does, but only has one speed now). When I tried to start the truck, I got one tick (as if the battery wasn't connected well), but then all the lights turned off and I couldn't turn the key back or remove it. I'm unsure of how to proceed here.
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John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 4-24-2018 General Motors and Amazon have finalized the rollout of a new delivery service that will allow GM owners with OnStar to have their Amazon deliveries placed directly into the trunk or cargo area of their 2015 or newer GM vehicle. Called Amazon Key In-Car, the service is now available in 37 cities and will rapidly expand. “Partnering with Amazon to leverage our embedded in-vehicle connectivity gives Chevrolet, Buick, GMC and Cadillac owners the option to conveniently receive deliveries inside their vehicle parked at home, work or near other locations in their Amazon address book,” said Alan Batey, President, General Motors North America. “This is another example of how we provide customers with technologies that add value and enhance the ownership experience.” Users can track the progress of the package and are notified when it is delivered and locked inside the vehicle. “The in-car delivery option is another way Amazon helps ensure that my order is delivered safely and conveniently. Setup was super easy for my OnStar-equipped car—I granted Amazon Key permission to open my car’s trunk and the ability to relock my car when done, and that was it,” said Scott L. from Miami, one of the Amazon Prime members who received early access to the service. “I can’t wait to check my car’s trunk to see what’s delivered next!” To get started users need only go to Amazon and download the app. If you own a Volvo, you are also eligible for the service. Thus far, only the GM brands and Volvo can take advantage of the service.
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I have a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado with the RPO code ZX3. The code is for the suspension package which is ride-control/ride control manual selectable. I am on the verge of replacing the shocks, ball joints, steering linkage/tie rods/bushings. I am trying to find out what replacement parts would be correct to keep the electronic controlled shocks. I don't need to keep that option but if I am going to eliminate that then I would like to know what issues that creates. I would also like to know how to fix any codes that would come up by deleting that system. My ultimate goal is a level kit, 2 to 2.5 inch front lift with all necessary parts replaced in the front end and shocks all around. If you know what suspension package I have on the VMAX then you know each shock runs around $250 which means I would already be at $1,000 just to replace all four. They need to go and I am looking for best viable option that makes mechanical and ride sense. Thanks all for the help.
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I have a 2012 Silverado LT Z71 with 5.3 that I bought used. When I bought the truck it did not have key fobs so I bought two factory style knock-offs from eBay. I took them to a locksmith and he programmed them and they worked great for almost a year. Last week I went to leave home and my truck battery was dead and would not crank. So, I charged up the battery and everything was fine except now neither key fob will work. The only response I get from the key fobs is if I hold both lock and unlock buttons at the same time the truck will go into tire pressure sensor relearn mode. So, then I took the truck back to the locksmith and told him what had happened. He said sometimes when the battery dies the truck will lose memory of the keys fobs. He then hooked up a zed-full computer and attempted to reprogram the key fobs. He tried multiple times several different ways and even used another type of computer but was unable to program them. The truck would go into keyfob learn mode but would never chime when he would hold the lock and unlock buttons down. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas?
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Smart Key Entry on 2015 Sierra Denali 1500
jasbains posted a topic in 2014 - 2019 Silverado & Sierra
Hi, I have a 2015 GMC Sierra Denali 1500 and I wanted to know if anyone has figured out a way to add smart key functionalities to this model. I still don't understand how GM made such a high-priced truck in 2015 without having smart key unlocking functions. I basically want the truck to unlock when you get close to it which is standard on most cars since 2010 in other makes and models. Please let me know if anyone has tried to do this or if it can be done. Thanks in advance. -
I am working on a 2002 Chevy 2500 HD. The ignition key is sticking when you turn it, and will remain in the cranking position sometimes. I swapped out the ignition cylinder and key, everything is all good there. I also know that the cylinder and key is not the issue, because when the cylinder is removed, if you take a large flat head screwdriver and turn the "recepticle" (female end) of the ignition cylinder, it still sticks. I tried lowering the igntion switch and even without the switch in place, it still sticks. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
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I am well aware that we can avoid paying the dealerships fee and get a replacement key from ebay, pay someone with a fancy laser machine to cut it and then program it ourselves. Even with all that effort we can save about half the price that GM would charge. I'm wondering about the style of keys, for our trucks we have the traditional style key with a separate fob. Some other GM models (GMC Terrain/ Chevy Equinox in particular) have the flip/ switchblade style. I believe the working end of the key is identical and they both have the "chip" for programming. (correct me if I'm wrong) So the question is, can we use either style for a replacement? I really want to get a spare for both my truck and my wife's car. But obviously a replacement/ valet key does not need a fob, so if possible I would just get the "truck" style key for both if that works. I believe others might be interested in making a switchblade that works with their trucks if that is possible. So if anyone has tried this, I'd love to hear about your findings. Thanks in advance.
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My Denali has been at shop on and off for 3 months. Intermittent problem where vehicle is shut off and key is removed but still runs. Local Firestone dealer replace ignition control module, ignition switch, key, cylinder but still does it. It was happening when damp outside but does it randomly now. Going to take to dealer this week. The Firestone dealer, local dealership that was consulted is stumped, and many professional groups say it's impossible based on the diagnostic steps that the vehicle should be still running. Only 100k miles on this truck. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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From the album: Sierra 15
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Truck has less than 250 miles on it and now the key won't go all the way into the ignition to allow the truck to start. I noticed this two days ago but I could shake/wiggle/jiggle the key and it would go all the way in and start the truck. Today, I drove the truck...parked it in the garage...now neither set of keys will go all the way into the ignition. I tried the shake/wiggle/jiggle...doesn't work. Anyone else have these issues or have suggestions? Thanks, Mike -
I have a 2014 sierra double cab sle with the z71 package. This is my first vehicle with power locks, and I am use to just unlocking the door with the key instead of using the key fob. When I unlock the door with the key manually the alarm goes off until I crank the truck. Does anyone know how to prevent this? I had to convince a security guard leaving church the other day that I was not stealing my truck! I was in a coat and tie with my Bible in hand and Barney Fife thought I was stealing my own truck! I guess that's a good cover though... ha. I guess I need to add my alarm is the factory alarm.
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Truck has less than 250 miles on it and now the key won't go all the way into the ignition to allow the truck to start. I noticed this two days ago but I could shake/wiggle/jiggle the key and it would go all the way in and start the truck. Today, I drove the truck...parked it in the garage...now neither set of keys will go all the way into the ignition. I tried the shake/wiggle/jiggle...doesn't work...tried moving the steering wheel...didn't work. Anyone else have these issues or have suggestions? Thanks, Mike
