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Found 6 results

  1. Truck in question: 2001 Silverado 1500 LT Z71 (w/ Stock Keyless Entry System) Okay, I really didn't want to make a forum post, but I've scoured the hivemind for answers and I have found none. Recently I ordered new batteries for my 15732803 key fob that was showing signs of a weak battery. i.e. Required holding button longer than before, and requiring me to stand closer. I removed the old battery about 12 hours before installing a new one. (idk why I did this, but I didn't think it would cause issues.) I tested the fob at Pep-Boys on one of those Energizer fob testers. Seems to work fine! After installing the battery, I followed the instructions on the inside of the fob case. "Press and hold LOCK & UNLOCK for 7 seconds". I did this, but I received no response from the truck. I tried this several times to no avail. At this point I assume that removing the battery for an extended period caused the rolling codes to become lost or out of sync... I begin attempting to enter programming mode as per my trucks service manual. This is where I am having problems. I followed the service manual and a multitude of other online resources that gave me the same, or slightly differing instructions. However, the locks NEVER cycle when I release the drivers-side UNLOCK button. I tried different combinations of this, with different speeds; removing the key, opening and closing the door every time. No luck... The systems worked well for years until I removed and replaced the battery. I respectfully ask that you don't respond with programming instruction from the service manual. I've read it so many times I could recite it by memory. I am certain that it's either a hardware/software issue, or it's a process issue. Maybe I'm performing the procedure too fast? Too slow? Are there known quirks that are undocumented in the service manual? Did I somehow mess something up by leaving the fob battery out for so long? (This seems unlikely since the fob isn't the issue in question) Thank you in advance for anyone who responds.
  2. I have a 2012 Suburban, owned since new. Yesterday the key fob / remote / keyless transmitter stopped working. It stopped, then worked a couple times to unlock, then quit completely. I assumed it was a bad battery (10+ years old), so I replaced it with a new battery, still didn't work. I have the second remote that's only been used a couple times when the keys were "lost", and it doesn't work either. No response from any buttons. I checked the batteries in both, and both batteries are at 3.3 volts. I pulled the DSM fuse for 5 minutes and then disconnected the vehicle battery for 5 minutes, no change. I have tried holding the remote right next to where (I think) the RCDLR is in the left-rear pillar, still no response. The TPMS system works fine, reading all 4 tires correctly with no errors. I hooked up my ODB2 scanner, and it doesn't show any codes. Do I have two dead remotes? Or has the RCDLR partially stopped working? I called the dealer, all they said was "buy a new remote, your two remotes have died". I asked, why would an unused 10 year old remote die? No answer, just come in and buy one. I have no faith in my dealership's service department based on previous repairs unfortunately, so I thought I'd ask here. My local locksmith will attempt a re-sync for $50, but they said if they're both not working it's not that. Unfortunately this year model won't allow the user to add or reprogram a remote. Thanks in advance for any ideas of what to try, or what might be the issue.
  3. I am looking for info on how to program the remote memory recall settings for my 2012 Silverado. I had to replace my main number 1 key fob due to it failing and now noticed that the memory seat position is not working when I press the unlock button on the remote key fob. I tried resetting my seat position with the number 1 button on the door but it makes no difference. The other orginal remote recalls memory seat number 2 but I can't get number 1 to work at all.
  4. My Ford F-150 didn't have keyless entry so I kept my keys in during one of my extended overseas trips, using the keypad to get in and my keys always safe. I could never stand the thought of losing my keys 6,000 miles away and having no way to get in my truck and I wouldn't be able to get in my house! I learned it the hard way a long time ago, never again. I didn't know my Chevrolet came with keyless but it was attached to a fantastic deal I couldn't refuse so I had a dilemma. I could use my phone to unlock my truck so I didn't really need the keypad my Ford had, but I just may install one for $250 at the dealership anyway. That's just in case I lose my phone whilst overseas. Unfortunately, keeping the keyless fob around the new Silverado will cause battery drainage as the module will be kept active when the keys are detectable. My truck didn't lock when I was at the back of my truck. As one member said, the Hitch Safe wouldn't be good enough and he's right so it was no longer an option. One here suggested wrapping it in aluminum foil and I tried that. It worked very well and realized my Progresso soup can had thicker aluminum so I tried it with the smooth-edge can opener and, voila! I am very pleased to report my truck did not unlock when I held it inches away from the door. To think I was going to spend $19.99 for a can of Coca-Cola with a secret compartment! Now, my question is: if I used my phone to unlock the truck from a distance... how long would the battery last before it dies? Can it do a month?
  5. Hi! I have a 2015 Silverado 1WT that does NOT have keyless entry. I'm a bit miffed because the salesman told me it could be added at a later date, but when I called the dealership they told me it couldn't be added. So I've come across a TON of different responses on this forum and others - all of which give conflicting advice. I'm left with my head spinning as to whether or not it can be done. Here's my info: 2015 Chevy Silverado Double Cab - 1WT Currently NO KEYLESS entry These are the RPO codes (note: no AQQ) I have power locks. I have TPM sensors. i03 radio. A chevy tech on another forum told me i needed the hood latch kit in order to add it. While yet another forum told me the ECM is software-locked and cannot have keyless codes entered, even from the factory. I type my VIN into the accessories.chevy.com and get the remote start kit (2 fobs, wiring harness, hood latch harness) as an option: VEHICLE 1: Vin: 1GCVKPEH0FZ187249 / 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4 - Door Extended Cab Pickup 143.5 WT 4WD Remote Start Kit Part No.: 22997089 So, I orderd the kit through my local dealership. They called me yesterday and told me their system wouldn't allow them to order the kit for my truck, and that I was out of luck with keyless entry - unless I wanted to go aftermarket. So here I am, confused as all heck. Has anyone figured out a solution to this keyless issue? Can it be done? Is there something else I need to do? I would prefer to not go aftermarket (and void warranty or anything). Can I just order the 2297089 and install it myself, then go to the dealer and have it programmed? or will the computer not accept it? There's so many different answers on different forums ranging over the past 4-5 years or so. I'm hoping that someone here has a bit clearer answer for me. Thanks in advance!
  6. So I am sure it’s on here somewhere I did try to Search with nothing to fine on it but I just want to know. I am use to the remote start for a Jeep and all you have to do do is just hit the start button and it auto locks the doors and starts but on my Chevy it seems like I have to hit the lock button twice then hit the start button for it to start with the fob remote. Is it just me doing something wrong or is that how the 18’s are
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