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I have a 5.3 with the 6L80 in it and was hoping to swap over to a 6.2 but i can’t find much online about what i will need to replace, anything would help. I know i’ll need a new ECM and possibly a new flex plate but besides that i’m not sure. Thanks in advance!

My trucks going in for open heart surgery in a month. DOD delete, tsp stage 2 L83/5.3 cam in my L86/6.2. I eventually would love to put a blower on it. I drive the truck frequently and don’t want to do too big of a cam where I’ll have to change my torque converter. Will I get away with a L83 stage 3 cam with my stock converter or should I stick to the stage 2. Specs are 5.3L Stage 2 Camshaft w/ +32% Fuel Lobe: 218/226, 635", 113 LSA, 109 ICL All my mods will be intake, portable TB, (hopefully have my heads ported when it goes in for dod delete and cam) LT4 injectors, 1-7/8 long tube hears, off-road y-pipe. I’ll have a 3.5” electric cut out followed by stock exhaust for now. Trucks reverse level and blocks removed. 22x12 -51 285/35r22 no trimming or cutting

Just wanted to post on here, as I have seen no less than a thousand posts with questions about the 6L80E, specifically about the power threshold of a stock unit. I have a 2014 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab Standard Bed stock 3.42 gears stock drive shaft stock 20" rims/tires 6.2L fully forged top/bottom end "Armageddon Twin Nagasaki's" (GT3582R's) e-boost 2 gauge Z06/LT4 fuel system 365lph in-tank Armageddon fuel pump QTP exhaust cut-outs and laid down 965rwhp/850 rwtq on a mustang dyno with 18psi on 116 race fuel (cut-outs open). I say all of this because the stock transmission detonated the 4-5-6 shaft (intermediate hub) near the splines. I took it to a "race shop" that said they would upgrade as much as they could; and was told at the time, there were limited aftermarket parts available for the 6L80E. This was mid 2018 with less than 10K miles on the truck and about 500 miles on the engine/turbo build and I discovered that was not entirely true. I drove the truck after their work, with "spirited road driving" while the roads were wet no less. Long story short; they f'd me and I detonated the 4-5-6 stock intermediate shaft again within 100 miles and no traction at all. They apparently replaced all parts that were broken with stock parts! Moving on, I took my truck to a different shop and researched my a** off and found PATC Transmissions. I had a warm and fuzzy after speaking with them and ordered the Phoenix Level 4 Master Rebuild kit among a few other minor accoutrements and re-tuning of my TCM by Mike from Century Automotive. It is now APR 2019 and I am about 1 1/2 weeks away from having the my billet planetary gear mailed to me; for the new, more reputable shop in my area to install all of this PATC bada**ery. If anyone is truly interested, I will post new info once I put the new Phoenix Master Rebuild kit through the ringer with the full weight/horsepower/torque of my particular application...I hope this helps if there are some lost souls out there that may be headed down the same long. hard. road. of a "full send" like myself! Please post if you have questions/comments/concerns; as I have "been there done that and forgot the t-shirt" with the L86/6L80E so far.

Current truck, bought at 60k miles, currently have 95, whipple 2.9 installed at 76k , current issue p0324. No other codes, loss of power, garbage gas mileage, suspect either knock sensors or pcm as that's the only thing I can find on this topic. I have zero noise coming from the engine and still achieve 13 psi from the blower. Not losing coolant, or oil. Loss of power obviously coming from the car pulling timing as it's in a safe mode. Just need advice on whether or not it's going to be the pcm or the knock sensors themselves. Any advice would be appreciated. Btw the truck is strictly 93 octane.

Good Afternoon fellow 6.2L enthusiasts. I apologize if this sounds like a commercial or a rant. I just like to share what I've experienced and discovered. So, I don't know about you, but I've been searching for a way to cram more air into my L86 that won't break the bank. I've done hours upon hours looking for the perfect bolt on's or practices that will help the block breath deeper. I've learned that swapping intake manifolds are not worth it however, porting makes it one bad ass manifold. (which i've done) I threw on an AFE CAI and that really helped get the air moving. (momentum GT pro 5R) Headers and a bigger full exhaust helps get the flow rolling. (I'm rocking TSP 1 7/8 Headers with a 3.5" full exhaust (catted with Cal Cats) and a Flowmaster Pro series Muffler) Cylinder Heads and a Cam shaft will transform your truck. (going with TSP Heads and a Trick Performance Cam package) And a basic tune wakes these bad boys up. (local dyno-tuner) That being said after the above you're looking anywhere between 430-530 HP N/A. Obviously the Cam specs are going to swing that number. Now, The one thing that I have NOT been able to find is a Larger Throttle body that will fit the L86 Stock Manifold. So I did what most have done and ported that sucker out. The only issue is it will never be larger than 87mm. Until this came along. https://www.bbkperformance.com/92mm-throttle-body-14-18-corvette-camaro-lt1.html FYI slight modification is required to the stock Manifold. You need to shave the base of the Vacuum port as well as the MAP sensor base for the frame to fit. Once that is done you're rocking. I was able to Port match the TB Bore to the manifold inlet and smooth out the transition. Honestly I can immediately feel the difference. When I get a little bandwidth I will throw on some videos of Cold/warm starts, take offs etc. If you have any questions feel free to reach out!

Hi, first time posting on here, I hope I am not bringing up an issue that has been solved or brought up elsewhere. Here we go, I have a 2015 single cab swb 4x4 that came with a 4.3/6l80e, i have swapped this to a 2017 l86/ 8l90e. Truck was fully operational prior to swap no issues, upon completing the mechanical portion of the swap and starting the electrical checkout I have run into some issues. Truck will power up bcm/ gauge cluster with no issue/ lights but I have no ecm activation as fars fuel system coming on or engine rolling over. I am getting the following DTCs: 2535, U0100, 1029( low voltage from fuel system). I have reached out to 8+ different shops for assitance and offered to pay for their time but have not recieved a solution or either not enough experience with newer truck/ motor systems, if there is anyone that has any thoughts/ recommendations/ experience/ solutions on this would be great or a capable shop around north Texas, I am all ears, really excited to figure out what is going and get this on the road. Also everything is 100% factory parts other than texas speed cam and delete kit.

I figured I would share some info about my install of the L86 intake and throttle body. I was trying to find some information, but it was hard to come by. Boredom got the best of me and I found out that the L86 was a direct swap for the 5.3L L83. What made it worse, was the fact that the mod was $250 (with factory, non-ported TB). I couldn't not do it The main reason I was sold on this was seeing some low end results, looked liked some good torque gains. I also saw my MAP drop to 94 kPa WOT, making it clear there was restriction. I have the Elite E2 catch can (see notes on it below) so I did not need to get the PCV tube (and you should not either IMO, put a catch can on it). Here is a list of what I ordered: L86 intake 12639087 $105 Throttle body gasket 12639086 $7 Intake port gaskets 12626357 $4 each (need 8) Tony Mamo ported LT1 throttle body 3 7/8 inch diameter and 3 inch long silicone coupler for Airaid tube I ordered it all on Amazon, except for the throttle body. I decided to go with a ported throttle body based on reviews I saw online and the fact that I wanted to do it all once and be done. Tony always does great work so I have confidence buying from him. The throttle body shipped super fast! I have a few pictures attached, but I was too anxious to install everything and didn't take as much as I was hoping. Now for the install. I will try to go off memory the best I can. There are 4 bolts holding the intake cover on and several pop-in wire ties. I have some plastic trim tools and popped them out pretty easily. There are 4 in the back of the manifold cover that aren't quite as easy. By this point, I already had the Airaid tube off. I disconnected the throttle body harness and removed it. I also removed the MAP sensor and one other part (evap purge maybe?) from the front of the manifold. I removed the Elite catch can line as well. I believe at this point everything was disconnected. I removed the 10 manifold bolts and removed the cover and manifold together. I took a few shots down the intake ports. I attached one. I had 7000 miles at the time of the swap. I did Seafoam right before this swap as well. I wish I had some before and after shots for Seafoam. I did a little work to clean up some edges on the intake ports of the new manifold. There were some good edges so I just worked them down. The PCV tube on the L86 manifold sticks down right behind the throttle body. I was tempted to cut and clean this up flush with the inner wall but I left it. You can kind of see it in some of the pictures. One note before putting the new manifold on, put the old intake cover on first. I was not paying attention and missed the back side that would prevent it from being installed with the manifold on the truck. FYI - the 5.3L cover does fit the 6.2L manifold. For the install, manifold bolt torque is 44 in-lbs on the first pass and 89 in-lbs on the second pass. If you number the bolts front to back, driver side 1-5 and passenger side 6-10, the torque sequence is 3-8-9-4-2-7-10-5-6-1 The throttle body bolt torque is 89 in-lbs. The bolts threaded into plastic I just snugged up. I think the MAP sensor bolt is going into a threaded insert so I set that torque to 89 in-lbs as well since the bolt size was the same. I also wanted to share some findings on the Elite E2 catch can. Several people ask about the effectiveness. After the first 100 miles or so I was putting the correct coupler on the throttle body and took a look inside. You can see the oil residue on the PCV tube inside the intake. The Elite E2 is catching about 15 mL/500 miles. Obviously it isn't catching everything, but I did not expect it to. I would be interested to run some tests on others, but I don't have money to blow on that I am happy with the mounting of the can and the performance so far, but I can smell some slight oil pull at idle. I just assume the vapors are just passing through and the catch can is pulling out most of the aerosols. It would be nice if they tested and published some efficiency numbers, if I had to put a number on it I would call it 95% for aerosols. At the same time I did some mods to the air box. The first one I fully cut the insert. The intake noise was horrible and was vibrating stuff in the cab. I trimmed it back and only cut out the bottom opening. Quick calculations the throttle body area was around 5950 square mm. The factory air box has around 7000 square mm of open area. The lower cutout is around 1750 square mm. Looking percentage wise, the lower opening increased the opening more than proportional to the throttle body area change. There is still more intake noise like this, but it is mostly under high load and under 2000 RPM. Now the results of all this. The new intake was able to raise my manifold absolute pressure at WOT in the same gear near 5000 RPM from 94 kPa to around 97 kPa. My MAF frequency was consistently around 8700 Hz. With the new setup, I am around 9000 Hz. I have seen the mass airflow go from 32.0 lb/min to 34.2 lb/min. In the past with a calibrated MAF I (and others) have associated lb/min approximately HP/10. That being said, I don't expect this was a 22 HP gain at all. My point is, lacking any dyno numbers, this was a good move in a positive direction for the truck - less restriction and more air. As far as the throttle body, tip in throttle response is much smoother and accurate for my pedal input. I felt the truck was pretty responsive before with the tune, but there was always this weird spot at low throttle. It wasn't in the driver demand tables, I think it had to do with the odd lips in the throttle body. I don't have a before and after comparison of the same throttle body, but I am definitely glad I went ported after looking at crazy lips of the stock one. Rather than port it myself like I did for my LS1 (which didn't turn out too bad) I figured I would leave it to a pro this time With the electronic throttle control and torque based control of the ECM, it makes it hard to draw conclusions. On a cable driven throttle body, 10% before and after would make the truck feel faster after. That was simply because of the increase in throttle area and getting more airflow for a given input. Seeing these computers are looking for a torque to meet the driver demand, it isn't as noticeable, so I feel the low end gains are more real from a SOTP feel. WOT is hard to tell because the intake noise really threw me off. It sounded like a 100 HP gain after cutting the air box haha I am still running around to see if it did anything to fuel economy, but I keep getting messed up with weather or short drives to do a good comparison back and forth to work. I did average 19.8 MPG on back roads over 20 miles, that was also with the full air box cutout. The best I could do on drives to work had been 21.8 MPG for the last 25 miles and right at 19.0 MPG on a half tank. The 19 is pump verified, I think my calibration for the DIC is off on MPG for the 21.8 number. I suspect it will be closer to 21.5 actual. I have not confirmed the unit updates to that calibration at that high of a fuel economy. As for the tune, all this was post MAF and I had it calibrated already. I saw no change in the MAF, but I still need to go back with a WB for a final pass. I updated the throttle area to 4118 square mm (from a 6.2L tune) and intake manifold volume to 15,010 cubic centimeters (also from a 6.2L tune). I increased the airflow correlation for P0068 tests as well as lowered the power enrich TPS since a lower throttle position will result in a higher load with the increased area (less throttle input for same airflow).

Hey guys, I'm trying to determine if an l86 intake bolts up fine to the stock l83 heads? Reason i'm asking is I have a chance to get a blower kit at a crazy deal from local shop but its for a 6.2 truck. I'm not worried about tuning as it will be dyno tuned, just wondering if I'm going to run into issues with ports not lining up or if they'll even bolt together. Thanks in advance

Just broke a #7 intake valve spring in a 2016 6.2L at 30k miles- valve dropped into piston and cylinder wall. New engine is going in next week. In a quick search, I see broken valve springs aren't that uncommon on the 2014-2018 6.2L. A few questions, though: 1) Why is it so common on the #7? Valve springs and valves broken. Somehow AFM related? 2) Have there been updates since 2016 to the valve springs, or to anything that might be contrubuting to this? I'm wondering if I should expect any different results from the replacement engine. 3) What should I look for in the way of additional warranty or anything else for having to deal with being out a truck for a couple weeks, towing fees, and now having an engine replacement black mark on Carfax, etc., potentially impacting resale? Or maybe the majority see a newer engine as a positive thing??

Hey folks, This is my video of MODEST upgrades for the L86. I'm new to posting as well as video blogging so I apologize for the quality and such. I'd like to start making some videos on HOW TO's for this particular engine. I've done almost everything to this thing in my driveway. so to the weekend/garage warriors who want more let me know what you want to see and I will build a video and post it. Bolt on's or porting, oil changes w/e let me know.