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Showing results for tags 'long travel'.
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2019 - 2021 Silverado Long Travel Gallery
Ronjon posted a topic in 2019-2023 Silverado & Sierra Mods
As the title says, post your long travel set up with the who and why! I'm tired of not being able to find long travel builds to copy off of. Custom or bolt on, doesn't matter. Post pictures of the before and after glass sides if you got them. If a thread like this already exists please share below or if you have a thread for your build. Hopefully this gets some serious attention for the full size community, the Toyotas get all the long travel attention.- 14 replies
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Hey All - I have a 2016 Silverado LTZ 4x4 5.3 w/ 8SPD that I just paid off and am looking to go full long travel. Here are the current truck specs: Front Shocks - King 2.5 Adjustable Reservoir Upper Control Arms - Camburg Tubular UCAs Rear Shocks - King 2.5 Adjustable Reservoir Tires: 35x12.5x17 BFG KO2s Wheels: 17in Method NVs Lighting: 2-Baja Designs XL80s (SDHQ A-Pillar Mounts) Other: Range AFM Delete The current set up is ok, I can keep up with stock Raptors on certain trail runs. Given that I want more out of this truck, I'm looking at the following long travel kits: Camburg LSK Suspension Dirt King I'm leaning towards the Camburg & DK kits as they're only +3.5 on each side vs. +4.5 for the LSK Kit. My garage isn't wide enough right now to accommodate +4.5 and will barely accommodate +3.5. Here are the other mods to follow in the next 2 months: Rear Bed Cage Whipple Supercharger +3 FiberWerx Fenders (All Corners) 37x12.5x17 BFG KM3s 4.10 Gears
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SHOOT US A MESSAGE FOR MEMBER DISCOUNTS! 07+ Silverado/Sierra 4WD Race Kit / LSK1104 Fits 2007+ Silverado/Sierra 4wd Vehicles Wheel Travel: 14.5" w/ LSK shock hoop, up to 17" with custom hoop/engine cage setup Wheel Base: Extended 1.25" forward Track Width: Extended 4.50" each side Lower Uniball pivot: 1.5" Upper Uniball pivot: 1.0" Includes Spindles Lower Arms Upper Arms Shock Tower Complete steering from rack out Grade 8 hardware throughout Requires Removal of factory shock mount Extended brake lines Spidertrax Unit Bearings (Require increased brake rotor bore to clear hub assembly - Machined rotors can be included for an additional $200) Coilovers (Not Included in kit) Bypasses (Not included in kit) RCV Race Series Extended Axle Assemblies Shock Hoops/ engine Cage Important Notes Welding is required - this is not a bolt on system and will require proficient knowledge in fabrication to perform the installation This particular kit uses a 10" 2.5" coilover and a 10" 3.0" or 2.5" 3-Tube bypass, a larger bypass can be run but would require a custom tube layout Coilovers require a specific fitting layout - if using your own coilovers please contact our sales team to make sure the configuration you have will work with this kit Shock hoop is listed as an option because most installers wish to add an engine cage but may want to run their own layout - choose this option if you would like to use our supplied shock hoop by itself or as a base for your installer to build an engine cage off of. Optional Shock Hoops are contructed out of 1 1/2" .120 wall DOM tubing Kits are normally in stock, however, a lead time of 3-4 weeks for a finished batch is typical on this kit when sold out. Please contact our sales team to verify if product is in stock (While it displays "In Stock" on the website, inventory levels are constantly changing and is not updated in real time) RCV Race Series extended axle shafts and HD inner/outer CV's are required - OEM CV joints WILL NOT work with this kit. Spidertrax Unit Bearings are required, OEM hub assemblies will not work with this kit. Running these hub assemblies ELIMINATES the ABS system. Coilover/Bypass lead time depends soley on King Shock Technologies. Typical lead time can be anywhere from 8-10 weeks on standard King blue finishes. Custom colors are available for your coilovers and bypasses, please contact our sales team to go over pricing for each additional option. 82d84c_f5e0a8faa1df4fbd9ca2e95af4d7f392_mv2_d_5184_3456_s_4_2 (4).webp 82d84c_f5e0a8faa1df4fbd9ca2e95af4d7f392_mv2_d_5184_3456_s_4_2 (3).webp 82d84c_f5e0a8faa1df4fbd9ca2e95af4d7f392_mv2_d_5184_3456_s_4_2 (2).webp 82d84c_f5e0a8faa1df4fbd9ca2e95af4d7f392_mv2_d_5184_3456_s_4_2 (1).webp 82d84c_f5e0a8faa1df4fbd9ca2e95af4d7f392_mv2_d_5184_3456_s_4_2.webp
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Anybody with long travel? or mid travel set up? if so, what set up are you running?
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Hey guys, I'm having a huge issue with my truck, for some reason I can not get the brake warning light on the dash to go away. It all started while I was driving at the desert (it's a long travel truck). I was taking it easy and I succumbed to my dads peer pressure to abuse it. Thats is when the dash light came on. A variety of other things came up, but ever other issue was fixed. I've exhausted every evil plan to murder this light but nothing does the trick. I changed out every light bulb, I replaced the rear tail lights, I replaced all the brake lines, bled the entire system, checked every fuse, replaced every brake and rotors as well, the parking brake is released, the parking brakes have been replaced, at this point I was thinking of ripping out the dash light but as a mechanic I just can't fail. Now yesterday on the freeway I realized my cruise control is not working either. Anybody have any idea how this could correlate to my brake light issue?
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So i just picked my self up a 2005 sierra 2500hd about a week ago and i want to build a 3/4 ton pre-runner. I want to go ahead and start with the engine work first then start on the suspension set up i want to end up having the truck supercharged but for know i want to run a programmer and some intake stuff can anybody give me some advice for companies to go with or to steer clear from?
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