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Drives

Found 6 results

  1. Hi All. I have got a real puzzle. The volt meter (analog) on my dash when cold reads just under the 14 volt mark. As it warms up it drops eventually to just above the red zone. I have changed out all my cables with heavy duty cables, cleaned all grounds I could find, being that both were old anyway, changed alternator and battery for top pole battery., swapped out Ecm (swapped back), and still the same. Here is the real puzzle for me. I have checked with my multimeter the continuity of the battery cables and when running, tested the volts. With multimeter everything is good to go and reads 14 volts. So guys, what do you think?
  2. My 2016 Sierra 2500HD has 176,000 miles on it already and recently started eating parts. The latest part to fail was the reductant tank heater (DEF Heater). Upon cold start the check engine light came on with code P21DD. After a little reading I learned that this can result in “Limp Mode”. I was in the middle of nowhere in Northern Wyoming. Not cool! I drove down to Denver and replaced it that week. I shot this video of the repair.....
  3. 2015 chevy 1500.. 3400 miles. A couple of times the heat didn't work. It always did "next time".. the other day I had to take a 3 hour drive.. it didn't work the whole way there...stopped for an hour..headed back still with no heat (it was 42* so it was not pleasant) Took to dealer - they said they cant find anything wrong, of course, and of course the he was working fine. Its only done this a couple of times in the past 2 months now. Anyone experienced anything similar? It blows out air, and it will adjust the fan speed properly (or what I'm guessing WOULD be properly if it was blowing out heat) based on the temp of the cab. Even when taken off of auto and just turned temp to hi and fan speed up, with AC button off, it was still blowing cold air. Any ideas? Could it somehow be user error? (doubtful) Also when the AC button is on, even when its on heat, is the AC really still running? seems dumb that lights always on even when you have the temp high and its blowing heat.
  4. Hi, I'm pretty new to this website. Came across it when I was looking for an answer to my problem . . . I don't know too much about trucks.. cars....4 wheel vehicles. I just bought this 06 crew cab 1500 silverado 4.3L had about 80k miles on it. I actually noticed the sound when I was test driving it from the dealer. Now it has about 101k miles and noise is still the same. it makes a rattling noise, almost like a metal noise at LOW rpms only. Doesn't matter if its 35 or 75mph. Have to be cruising like slight amount of acceleration. Sounds like its coming from the engine.. I checked a bunch of forums all saying different things. my truck is stock, as far as i know.. one of the forums mentioned it could bea bad alternator, but I have no clue. any help? Sorry I'm a complete noob. Ivy
  5. I have a low beam out on my 2013 1500. I'd like to replace them with leds but I'm not sure which ones play well with the auto lights and drl stuff. Anyone have suggestions or reviews on leds that are on the current market?
  6. I purchased a 2014 gmc 5.3 with 80k. the lifters were all replaced under warranty. soon after i noticed 10 psi oil pressure after driving 25 min on highway. dealer replaced oil pump still has 10 psi after 25 min of driving. when i first start up its at 40, oil pressure goes to 70 when rpm exceeds 3500 rpm. oil pressure starts to drop to 20 after 10 min and seems fine. after 25 min it drops to 10 on guage. i had oil pressure checked with mechanical guage and confermed guage is accurate. i asked dealer to che k the screen under oil pressure switch they said it was clean. at this time dealer says nothing is wrong due to specs at 1000,2000,3000 rpm. i called gm customer care and they said to get different dealer to look at. i did and they confermed rpm at different rpm and charged me 118.00 gm customer care did nothing to help me out. i have never seen any truck with 10 psi at idle. does anyone else seem to have this issue?
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