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Drives

Found 2 results

  1. I experienced problems with the Shift Buttons for the Manual mode on my Silverado: It behaved like there was a false contact or even an electrical short on the inside of the shift lever The transmission worked fine in Drive, and even in Manual Mode, but the truck would shift down when i pushed the button to shift up and viceversa or not register the shift at all. This was specially problematic when trying to engine brake while towing loaded on a hill or so, you get the idea. After disassembling the Column covers and shifter boot i discovered orange rust coming out of the lever where the cable for the buttons exits, so i concluded it was most likely a false contact or short on the internal electrical parts of the shifter itself, caused by rust and corrosion inside of the shifter. Since i caught the problem relatively quickly i managed to fix it by pouring a lot of AutoZone Rust Eater penetrating oil a few times in a couple of days It worked! now the shifter buttons work like new. Im pretty sure that if the rust had corroded the electronics too much, I may have needed to replace the shift lever entirely, since there is no practical way of disassembling it. WD40 could have worked too, but AutoZone´s "Rust Eater" sounded better and is just what i had in hand and worked. There are many brands of Rust Removing Penetrating Oils, most of them should do the same, but i dont know of all of them are Dielectric and safe to use on electronics. MAF sensor cleaner or Electronic parts cleaner could also work as well. TL;DR i made a video about it, hopefully this will help someone not spend money on a new shift lever:
  2. Hi everyone, I just purchased a 2016 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab All Terrain X a few weekends ago. The AFM (Active Fuel Management) is such a pain when switching from V4 to V8 mode at low speeds (non-highway driving) because I hate the "bogging" or "hesitating" feeling the truck gives off and the exhaust tone is UGH... I had a 2007 Avalanche and used a Range Technology device to disable it. But overtime I would have to pull the device out and plug it back in because it wouldn't activate sometimes. Been reading on this forum about the Range device for the newer Sierra's and people have been having issues with them and could mess with the computer overtime. So I won't be going that route. Another option is to get a tune like BlackBear and get it disabled or set a minimum speed of when the AFM activates. But a tune isn't an option for me right now because I want to keep my warranty as long as I can. Someday BlackBear tune will in my future! So I decided to try something. For the last couple days I have been driving in Manual mode "M" and setting it to M7 (7th gear) and driving like normal (non-highway driving). I was shifting gears up ( + ) and down ( - ) because I thought that was what you were suppose to do but I found out I can just set it to M7 and not worry about shifting, it does it for me, it just doesn't go into M8 (8th gear), which I don't need when I am going less then 50mph most days. I watched it stay in V8 mode stay the WHOLE TIME! The only time it went into V4 mode was when I shifted into M8 and then I switched back to M7 and it went back into V8 mode. So I think I found a workaround without having to void my warranty with a tune or messing up my computer with a AFM disabler device. I want to get your thoughts guys, will running in Manual "M" mode ruin the transmission in anyway? Not using M8 (8th gear) for slow speeds have long term affects with that gear? I am going to do this for another week or two and report my findings. This guy is happy when my truck isn't "bogging" or "hesitating" and have full power!!!
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