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Found 13 results

  1. I bought a 2017 Tahoe Z71 and found that my iPhone 7 couldn't use the wireless charging station in the center console. When it was time for a new cellphone I decided to get the new iPhone Xs so, among other things, I could use the wireless charger. Imagine my annoyance when I realized that the 2017 GM products wireless charging followed a different standard than the iPhone X QI standard for wireless and charging and I was still SOL. SO...being in Costco one day I found a wireless charging pad (2 pack). For a while I put the wireless pad on the center console and plugged it in to the inverter. This was annoying as it constantly slid off or the kids kicked the plug in the back seat. SO...I resolved to fix it; to replace the wireless charging guts of my GM product with the wireless charging guts of the working charger. This is the story of that replacement. 1) Figure out how to take apart the working wireless charging pad. Not too bad, remove the bottom rubber pad and remove screws and pry it apart. 2) Figure out how to get the bottom of the center console cover off. Much harder. Got special interior tools and pried again. It feels like you're going to break it. But if you start at the bottom; near the hinge, it goes easier and feels less like you'll break something 3) Remove wireless charging box from under console lid. Open the box and remove the guts. They're glued in. You won't be able to use the metal heat sink part, but will need the plastic box. It is wired in with a plug..so just remove the plug. 4) Remove the guts of the working wireless charging pad. 5) The next problem is that the wireless charging pad runs on 9 volts, while the car charging pad runs on, you guessed it, 12 volts. You need a little buck converter or power regulator to get the voltage where it belongs. If the electronics part is beyond you, contact me, I have a few extra I could part with. 6) Wire this all together, fit the parts into the box from the Tahoe, hot glue them into position, connect the power coming into the lid of the console and the concept if complete. But not the build. 7) There are some issues: 1) The new coil must fit VERY closely to the edge of the box. In fact it seems like it has to be pressed into the box. To accomplish this I cut a new top for the box and padded the coil so it was under pressure to contact the top of the box. 2) The rubber pad in the top of the console lid does not position the phone exactly right to get the most reliable charging. I recommend removing the rubber pad and reversing it (so the little reminder not to put metal on the charger is near the back of the console). 3) The coil has an orientation. I had it working flawlessly on the bench but when I installed it realized that I had the coil cross wise to the needed orientation; had to take it all apart and start again.
  2. Hello, I have been helped by various posts on this forum for a long time but now joined mainly to ask some questions about upgrading my van. Here is the scenario; my dad purchased the 2000 Chevy Express Conversion Van new from a dealership back in 2001. We used it as a family vehicle for many years but as us 'kids' grew up and married off, the van was left unused. So I purchased it from my dad and have been fixing it up. Whoever did the conversion was an idiot. They took an Express 1500 and made it into a conversion van that weighs 6,800# empty. *The front doors are so heavy we had to reweld the hinges because the factory spot welds were peeling off. *The van had front DRUM brakes which we changed out for a set of Brembo slotted disk brakes. *Changed rear axle ratio from whatever stock was down to 3:73 *I upgraded the wheels from 15" to 17" and the tire size from 26" to 30.5" (yes the front tires rub sometimes, but it is 10X better in snow and rides better.). *I replaced the rear leaf springs with 3/4 ton leaf springs and coil-over heavy duty shocks. *Upgraded the full exhaust system from the manifolds back with 3" pipe and a high flow cat and Thrush muffler. *Replaced the engine after I was a dumbA$$ and never refilled the coolant with coolant after having to add water due to a leak and the block froze and cracked. The replacement engine was taken from a 1999 Chevy Suburban. *The transmission was replaced with a Monster Transmission brand 4L60-E rated up to 600hp and tuned for towing (quick firm shifts) and a heavy duty torque converter. *Replaced all ball-joints and steering bushings. *New "heavy duty" shocks for front suspension - which didn't change anything like I was hoping. Anyway, now I want to upgrade the front suspension because it is SO SOFT that the van struggles to ride flat if the road has any bumps in it. It is 2WD, so no front axle. 1: I want to upgrade the front and rear sway bars, can I just put 3/4-ton or 1-ton sway bars on it? Will they fit? 2: I want to upgrade the front springs and shocks with 3/4 ton springs and shocks. Is this possible? 2b: I would also be happy if anyone new of an air suspension or air-adjustable shocks that might work as well. I can't seem to find anything for front suspension for 2wd Chevy vans or trucks. Thanks for any help.
  3. Well, seeing as how I can't find much on this subject no matter what forum I go to, why not try to start the discussion here and see what kind of following I can get and see where we end up. If you're reading this thread, chances are you have thought about modifying or swapping out your current transmission in your 2014+ GM truck. In my case, I don't mind my 6L80 in my truck. It does fine for what I do right now and it's holding up just fine, but I think the big issue is when you start to search for big power (like I'm starting to do), that 6L80 is not going to hold very much (or so we think). Now, let's all face it. We've seen posts after posts, comments after comments, photos, videos, etc. of guys with built motors with turbos or prochargers shooting down the quarter mile in search for the best time on these 6L80s. Some say they're completely stock, others have them built, and we all ask ourselves the same question: Reliability. How well are these transmissions going to hold up to the abuse on the track? Especially if you want to make it a fast street/strip truck and drive it back home to the garage afterwords. We know for a fact that 6L90s can hold quite a bit of power. Even though I've mostly seen it in Camaro ZL1 applications, there is a guy on YouTube (GuitarmaggedonZL1) who is running a stock 6L90 on stock converter making 1000HP (give or take on an unloaded dyno) and the transmission hasn't puked all over the ground just yet. (Exaggeration, I know.) So, needless to say, a 6L90 swap sounds nice, at first... After you figure the extra length and weight (and in my case, relocation of the transfer case and getting custom driveshafts made), it starts to look a bit unpromising, but still not out of the ball park yet since it will be able to handle the power some are seeking, but where these newer transmissions lack significantly if you want to do boosted applications at the track (or even just launch control on N/A), no one has developed a transbrake. Very, very few forums are talking about this, and only one video exists of a guy in his BMW testing out a transbrake on a 6L80/6L90, and who knows how reliable it is. So, now, you start to think: Well, gee. What can I do now? How about a TH400 or 4L80e swap? So far, I've seen few posts on that as well. No one is talking about it, and I think the biggest problem people seem to be facing is the new PCM: E92. Also possibly the fact that the TCM on the newer transmissions is inside the transmission and whatnot, but whether that plays a part in this, I don't know yet. Now, adapting a TH400 or 4L80e can be done (most likely with a different bellhousing since the bolt holes are in a slightly different spot), but you run into the issue of getting it to speak/cooperate/communicate with the new E92, which I don't think anyone has tried. The only video I've seen of anything working in this application was on a 1320Videos video with a Nova where they were using an LT4 long block (built motor to 388 C.I.) and twin turbos, and it had a powerglide in it. Don't know if it was a manual valve body or computer-controlled, but what I do know is that they used the factory computer to run the DI injection system and piggybacked the rest to an MS3 Pro. After dealing with some issues, they were able to make that thing boogy to a 9 second pass at 148mph. So, these engines have potential to haul ass, but we just haven't figured out how to crack the system. So, at this point, I'll just leave what I've discussed here and see where the thread goes from here, and I'm hoping people chime in and vendors are watching/listening. Even though the demand isn't hot for it right now, there's going to be a surge for good transmissions when people can buy these trucks/cars/motors/transmissions for pennies on the dollar. Unfortunately, I feel like we'll have to wait that long in order to see results, but oh well. Just to give you guys an example: In the next year or two (2019 or 2020), I'd like to go turbo with my truck. (Doing all the supporting mods before going there minus built bottom end until I see where I can get with stock bottom end before sending a rod through the block or oil pan) Ideally, it'd be best to have a transbrake in that application with 2-step, but can't do it on the new transmissions. So, 4L80 seems to be the option, but I can't do that either because no one supports adapters or harnesses to make them work with the new motors/ECUs. That's the boat I'm in. I like to research everything before I go whole hog into something. Risk assessment, I guess.
  4. Hey everyone, Thought I’d start a build thread for my 2015 Silverado 1500 LT Crew Cab Standard Box (5.3 L) 4x4. Been my dream vehicle since I was a kid and finally owning one is a great feeling! I've quickly learned that these mods can get out of control though, but I’m sure you all know that! Here are the following modifications I have done on my truck so far: · 2" Zone leveling kit · Upgraded from 18" to 20" wheels (Matte black Rockstar 2 XD 811) · Goodyear Duratrac 275/60R20 tires · BakFlip G2 tonneau cover · Smittybilt Receiver Hitch D-Ring · Rigid Industries SR-M2 fog lights (x 4) · Rigid Industries D-Series lights behind the grill (x 4) · Enthuze LED headlights (high and low beams) · Swapped out license plate lights, cargo lights, and third-brake lights with Philips LED bulbs · AFE Magnum Force Stage-2 Pro 5R cold air intake system · Borla S-type cat-back exhaust (side exit) · Added GM 3" black powder coated nerf bars (GM part #23194635) · Gatorback oversized custom fit mud flaps · De-badged all wording from doors and tailgate, including “4x4” decals · Plastidipped front and rear bowties matte black · Hood and tail gate vinyl wrapped with matte black rally stripes with pin-stripe outline · Installed driver side assist handle · Weathertech precise fit floor mats (front and back) · Blackvue 1080P DR650GW-1CH dash camera Here is my truck on day 1 when I picked it up; fully stock: And let the modifications begin…
  5. Has anyone taking the inner plates out of their sport bars? The part that says sierra/silverado in red and the remaining black steel around it. Im wondering how it will look as just the hollowed out bars. I also realize this is fairly simple to do and see (7 bolts) but I'm at work right now and curious if anyone has already done it and took pictures. Thanks
  6. (Pictures are not uploading properly, I will fix it when I can and put them in the appropriate places in the post) I want to start off by saying, pictures are limited, as the only bolts you need to remove (10 total) are fairly obvious and in your face, the only two that are 'difficult' to find I will explain where they are. I special ordered my truck how I wanted it with every option I needed, but I left off the chrome package because I don't like chrome. But then my dad bought a black LT RCSB and I loved the chrome bumper so I decided I had to have one while I look for all blue color matched (Z71) front end parts. The first part that needs to come off is the plastic trim under the hood, that is on top of the radiator/grille. There are 10 push-pins that hold it on. I used the second tool in the picture, lift the first stage of the clip, once its up about 3/4 inch, get under the base and pull it completely out. Next, the grille is held on with 4 10mm bolts, these bolts don't do much honestly. Pulling the grille itself out was the most challenging part of the whole job. There are clips in front of each bolt that will slide back in their slots if you breath too hard. On the middle/driver's side clip, there is a plastic locator pin that appears to be nearly impossible to leave intact and remove the grille, so I cut it off flush - there are enough pressure clips to keep everything aligned. I started at the passenger side and removed the top clip, then pulled the grille out at the middle cross piece. Don't be afraid of pulling too hard, the pressure clips release with some force. Once the grille pull out approximately 1", you can lift the grille up and out. This leaves the bumper. There are a total of 6 bolts that attach the bumper to the truck, 4 accessible now that the grille is removed, the other 2 are harder to get too, one on each side. If you lay down in front of each tire and look up, you will see the brace that secure the bumper. Remove the one 15mm bolt that on each side (leave side with 2 bolts on the frame). Now you can remove the four 18 mm bolts that are in front of the radiator. The bumper should rest on its mounts once all bolts are removed without a risk of falling, but be careful regardless. That will leave you with something that looks like this, kind of intimidating at first. I had to transfer all the appropriate brackets from my back bumper to my chrome one, a little bit of effort but if you have gotten this far you won't have an issue. Then everything goes back together exactly the opposite as it came apart. ​
  7. Hi all, Still relatively new to the site, so please excuse me if this is a duplicate post of sorts. I am looking to eventually do a lift/level on my 2017 ATX. I would love to keep it as stock as possible... So.. my question is, can I swap stock suspension for stock suspension... I have a 1500, can I take 2500 or 3500 suspension to bump it up noticeably with out modifying severely? Open to all and any comments! Thanks!
  8. Has anyone taken apart a 14-15 Chevy headlight before? Im curious about the black plastic piece that divides the chrome from the high beam housing and low beam housing. Has anyone attempted to remove this piece? And successfully reapplied it with breaking anything? My goal is to fabricate a piece integrated with a LED light strip similar to the 16 headlight look. Thanks in advance
  9. Hey y'all , like the topic said I'm looking for a terminal eyelet used on the battery fuse box on a 2015 Silverado 1500 (see attached). I have found the harness number ( Part Number: 23479826) and have been to every battery place around here including 2 dealerships parts department trying to find them. So my question is does anyone know of a part number of these terminals and where i could find them. I'm trying to keep every factory looking and i don't want to have to hack the fuse box just to get 12v off the battery. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.
  10. Hey so I have around 2000$ to play around with and I have a 2014 GMC sierra 4 wheel drive with the only thing put on it is a Rough Country 2 inch level and nitto trail grapplers. I have some idea's in what I want to do but I was wondering if any of you guys have any ideas for me. I'm looking for accessories outside of the truck not necessarily performance mods. I have a toolbox, 5% tint, and rhino lining in the bed. I'm looking for a more showy or buffer look on the truck. My idea is to get everything from Rough Country, but I'm open to other companies. What I have in mind is a 50 inch light bar w/ bracket, a chrome bull bar w/ 20 inch light bar, and some nfab running boards with the 3rd step for toolbox access (I have the 6'6 bed and I've seen them and they look great). If y'all have any ideas for me that'd be great! or if you think any of these clash. Thanks
  11. So far I have read lots of great advice in the forums about upgrading the 2014 SLE. I really want to add fog lights to mine. I understand that this could be done, and shouldn't be too much trouble. I know that I will need to get a new dash switch, the bezel, lights and a wiring harness. I am having trouble finding out if that is all that I will need. Additionally, I was wondering if anyone has done this upgrade, I know people have tried installing the LED SLT headlights with little or no success. If you can provide any advice, technical information and part numbers, it would be greatly appreciated! Ive been having trouble finding all the info I need. Thanks in advance! -Bryan
  12. i have a 99 sierra 2500 and want to drop a 2013 sierra 2500 engine into it. my question is, how hard will it be to do this. i am mechanically inclined and know i can mechanically fit this engine in my 99 by modifying a few things, but i am concerned on the electrical. i know i will have to use the ecu and wiring harness off the 2013 but i definitely need advise before i get into this massive project. i have the complete totaled doner car so i can use whatever i need of that. i am really concerned with the electrical and how to connect it to my 99. will this be possible? easy as plug and play? thanks so much in advance.
  13. Hey Y'all! I've got an '89 K2500 scottsdale (bright red with a new paint job) that has been in my family since it rolled off the lot in '89, and its totally stock. and now that it's been handed down to me and I've got a steady job, I wanna make her more respectable as a bigass truck. I'm pretty much leaving everything open and up to discussion, but some must-haves are: -OR capability. My friends have a little OR club and there's some great trails not too far from here. -Loud. More or less, lets all talk about what might make this truck really great. I can upload pics later, but my phone is acting up and won't send me the pics to my computer.
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