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Showing results for tags 'oil consumption'.
Found 8 results
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So fairly recently I noticed that my oil pressure is reading a bit low. I have topped off the oil, replaced the oil pressure switch and filter (located beneath the switch) to no success. It still reads around 20 psi idle (warm) and, after a bit of driving (ie. warmed up) it only reads about 25, maybe 30 psi tops, at around 1700-2000 RPM. Someone had mentioned it could be one of two things, since I dealt with the sensor already: oil relief valve could be stuck open, and/or the siphon tube on the intake side could have a broken/craked o-ring. Since I've done the sensor and the filter below it, are these the next recommended things to check? There are no physical leaks. It does not appear to be burning oil (although it might, but is quite slow as I don't see any evidence from the tailpipe, even of cold starts in cold weather--at least none of the exhaust fumes look to be like smoke from oil burning). Even so, when the oil is full, it still reads low pressure even with the new sensor installed (so the old sensor was actually fine. and yes it was tested with a mechanical gauge before the sensor was done ). The engine runs fine, no ticks or noises, just low pressure. Some people on other forums say that my oil pressures are normal, while I see the opposite, and some people are reporting 40 psi idle, and 50-60 psi while cruising, which is why I'm wondering about this. I have not gotten a warning light, and the gauge has never dropped to 0 or been pegged at 80 psi. When it starts cold, it is around 35-40 psi and then drops off as the truck warms up. I did take it to the dealer, they said it needs a new pump (now, it occured to me later that perhaps what they meant to tell me is that the relief valve might be stuck open but just replace the whole pump). All they said was "you need a new oil pump" which I'm sure that they are glad to say because it's an 8 hour job, and at dealer shop rates, that adds up quick (I got an estimate from them and the local independent shop which I've used before for stuff. Dealer said $1500 installed plus tax (so maybe $1700 in the end?) Independent shop said $1000 plus tax, so if it does need replacing, I'll probably just go to the local shop as I trust them (as they fixed trans problems on some of our other company vehicles to our satisfaction). Am i correct in looking at the o-ring and relief valve. I know that if the relief valve is bad, I need to just replace the pump, but I'm also tempted to say if they drop the pan and check the o-ring, they might as well just replace the pump, as the pump itself isn't expensive. Doing the labor is. Like I said, the truck runs fine, doesn't make any unusual noises (I do get piston slap in the morning which I mistakenly thought maybe was a stuck lifter, but that quickly goes away after it warms up, and is apparently a "problem" with these engines). I should also mention I checked the trans fluid and the coolant to see if possibly oil was getting mixed in, but it isn't. Those fluids are clean and look normal. No overheating either, or strange noises from the engine. Thoughts?
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Hi everyone- brand new to the forum. Thought I'd throw out a question about my 2008 Chevy Suburban LTZ sitting in the shop right now waiting on a replacement GM-cert refurb engine. Should be put in in the next several days. Truck has 165K miles. Started chewing oil back in 2012 at around 80K. Was in shop 3 times in 2013 with the usual AFM issues up until the 110K mile mark when the 3rd operation was done (I think it was replacement of all pistons). All-told, about $7250 of warranty work done to truck related to AFM. Soooooo, truck recently had misfiring on cylinder 5, low oil pressure warning, drop of pressure, left on side of road. Towed to dealership. Engine not holding pressure, needs new engine. I expect the engine to have 3 yrs/100K warranty. My question is this: Should I disable the AFM with the "Range AFM Disabler" (http://www.rangetechnology.com/products/range-v8) device on this 'new' engine to (likely) eliminate any potential issues, or should I trust the newer version of this engine that was ordered will behave and perform as desired. I am also a bit confused about posts discussing 'deleting' the AFM with "kits" or having to put different parts into the engine to turn AFM off, while getting normal, expected behavior from the engine. Thank you all for any feedback. Love this forum! John -
New here just made an account to ask a few questions but I'll stick around for a little while. I have a 12 Silverado 5.3 LC9 114xxx miles. I had cylinder 7 throw a misfire code pulled plug and it was oil fouled. I'm getting the notorious litter noise. I don't know exactly how much oil it is consuming but I would guess at least 2 qts every 2-2500 miles. I guess my question is should I even worry about the lifters going out with that much oil lost and the cyl 7 plug fouling out? Or should I just save my money and put toward a new engine? I don't mind pulling the heads and putting lifters in but if it needs pistons anyway I guess I'm thinking what's the point. -
Wondering if anyone has done a pcv delete and run a breather style setup on an l83/l86 engine? Seen it done on older ls stuff and guys talk about a much smoother idle. Recently had a cam swap done and looking to keep intake and valves clean lol.
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I have a 2011 Silverado with 125k miles, bought the truck with 90k and found out the problems with the active fuel management on these model trucks so I put a programmer in the truck to delete those hoping it would help make the engine last longer. It’s is now burning oil, has a puff of white smoke when it starts after sitting for more than 3-4 hours, and the fuel alcohol sensor acts up when it’s cold outside making the truck start rough and idle rough for about 30 seconds. Is anyone else having all these problems? -
I have read other people’s issues with their truck using excessive oil. However, mine is the 4.3 V6, everybody else’s seemed to be the 5.3 V8. To bring everyone up to speed; as stated its the 4.3 V6 2wd, I had the oil changes included up to 24,000 miles. I was taking it in every 5,000 miles so the last change the dealership did was at 20k so as I was approaching the 25,000 mile mark my oil light came on. I went ahead and did my oil change a little early, it was somewhere between 24k and 25k and measured it was 2 quarts low! I thought those idiots didn’t top me off correctly at 20k! However, after the 20k oil change I had it in my head I was done taking it to the dealer and I could go ahead and do a couple things. I installed a cold air induction air box, which I love the growl I get, and I did a cat back exhaust from MRBP, which sucks, it’s horrendous, I replaced the MRBP flow through “muffler” with a Dynamax Turbo muffler and it helped considerably. So I am wondering if one of these items is the culprit? I kinda doubt it. As I approach the next 5k miles which would be 30k miles on the truck the oil light comes on again!! I know I had put the proper amount of oil in at my last oil change so I’m becoming more concerned. I change my oil measure and 2 qts low again. I research and find out others are having issues but with their 5.3’s. Friday, February 2nd, I’m heading to work, I’m at 33k miles and the oil light comes on!!!! So 3,000 miles in and I’v lost 2 qts???? Sure enough. I call the dealer to see what they would have to say and I’m told losing a quart every 1,200-1,500 miles is acceptable per policy!! I read on here somebody else was told 1 quart per 2,000 miles was ok. Are they lowering their standards even more??? Good grief. My truck has the 36,000 mile bumper to bumper and 100,000 mile power train warranties. So I’m putting my stock air box back on and my stock exhaust and taking it to the dealer so they can start doing their oil consumption testing I guess. What I’m looking for on here is a little advice. Do I also call Cheverolet customer service and cover my bases with them? Google gave me the number 800-222-1020, also 866-694-6546 for technical support anybody have a different number? A direct line to somebody maybe? Should I send some oil off to Blackstone and have it tested as well? To clarify; I don’t have any visible leaks. I use Valvoline SYNpower full synthetic 5W-30 Mobil 1 extended performance oil filters and replace them at 5k. Thanks for your time and advice. -
I have had the Elite Engineering E2 Catch Can on my 2014 Silverado for about 8100 miles and just performed my first oil change since it was installed. (Don't worry, I use Mobil 1 Annual Protection). Shocked is an understatement of my reaction when I discovered how much oil my truck is burning. After seeing how much was captured by the Catch Can, I am very glad I decided to install one. I have run a catch can in my Camaro for several years and it captured far less oil between changes so I was very surprised with how much was captured this time. After doing this first check - up on the catch can, I now plan to check the can much more frequently (every 2,000 miles or so) to see how much is being captured. I will be uploading some additional follow up reviews on the catch can and how it is performing. Overall, I am completely satisfied with my purchase and will be purchasing from Elite Engineering again. Note that this engine is shared among many GM platforms such as the Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Tahoe, Express, etc.- 6 replies
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I have been brooding for the last couple of months since my 2014 Silverado (51k miles) has been increasingly using oil. Since purchase date October 2013 I've been to the service bay more times than I can remember with about 2 weeks of vehicle down time (I did get to use a nice impala to haul equipment and tow my boat with though). It all started with a "loose" feeling driver's seat accompanied by a clicking sound and progressed into six or seven repair iterations from two different dealers followed up with a seat heater failure. After finally getting a seat that I felt safe in, the truck developed a vibration that causes the empty passenger seat to shake from side to side at highway speeds (and yes I regularly rotate my tires). I guess I was feeling worn down by the divers seat fiasco that I decided to just accept the vibration and try to enjoy an otherwise very nice truck. Several months passed along with my bumper to bumper warranty and recently my drivers seat cushion heater and cooler stopped functioning. I'm now using about 1-1/2 quarts of oil every 2-3k miles and have had two not so good feeling occasions when on long trips in the middle of nowhere having the low oil light come on and having to pour 2 or more quarts of "expensive" quicky mart oil into the filler. It's a terrible feeling when you can't feel good about going on a long trip in your $50,000 truck. So today we are having some nice weather and I hopped in the truck to go get lunch and the ac is blowing warm air. I've had other new trucks, mostly Fords and none of them even my 99 Silverado with 245K miles gave me a fraction of the problems I've have with this truck. I don't have time to "swing by" the dealer every week or so to have my oil level monitored or to argue about whether or not its fair to expect that my seat heater or ac should last more than two calendar years. I'm thinking its time to punt. P.s. my headlights fog up too Buyer beware.....
