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Showing results for tags 'overheating'.
Found 23 results
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Back in May my 2015 Silverado dropped a lifter. I sent it to a shop and had a BTR stage 2 cam installed and since I've gotten it back it has had overheating problems. It had slight overheating problems before but never over 215 F-220 F. Fans do come on with the AC in low and once it starts getting warm they kick on in high. My issue now is its had a new water pump, temp sensor and thermostat put in and it runs 220F to 230F regularly. planning on buying a radiator before long and giving that a shot. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. truck.heic -
06 Silverado 2500hd 6.0 My Silverado is getting really hot while towing up hill, to the point that the "Engine Coolant Hot" light is coming on. (Which I stop and let it cool down). This has gradually gotten worse. Truck does not get hot while towing on flat terrain. Any ideas?
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Have a 2014 4.3 Silverado with around 180k miles. About two weeks ago I noticed that whenever I’m driving (any speed) and press the gas pedal halfway or more for about 5 seconds I notice it starts to go from normal 210° to around 220° once I start to see it go up I let off and it goes back down. I could let it idle with the ac on and it’ll never go past 210 only when I step on it even with the ac off. The coolant is always at the top, the fans turn on when the ac is on , I haven’t seen any leaks, the radiator hose is hot after driving and radiator doesn’t have too much build up on it from the outside . I’ve replaced the thermostat twice in the past year and a half because both times they went out and marked 0° the whole time while driving causing my fans to always stay on (I just disconnected the battery for 10 min and after it would only mark around 100° but I only did it so the fans wouldn’t turn on, and It ended up being the housing) I also don’t think it’s the thermostat because otherwise it would go up and down like the other times And it only goes up when I know it will (when I floor it a little bit). Any idea what it could be? -
So just this past friday one of the heater hoses blew on the way to work. The next day the thermostat and the hose were replaced, with no leaks of any kind thereafter. Fast forward to Monday afternoon, after nearly 50 miles in over 100 degree weather the truck is fine, but on the way home I got off the highway and was at a red light. That's when the truck began to overheat again, going all the way past the 3/4 mark. I made it to a gas station and it cooled off slightly as I pumped gas, but was barely able to get home. So later that night the fan clutch was replaced because it seemed like it wasn't cooling at slow speeds or during idle. Another fast forward to today, Tuesday, when it ran another seemingly perfect day in highway, city streets, and some more highway, I was pretty upbeat! And then.... nearly the same thing happened! I was pretty close to home when the temperature needled starting rising little by little. I pulled of the highway and began to take the streets because I didn't want to be stuck in rush hour traffic with an overheating engine. So over roughly 7 miles the needle only crept to the 3/4 mark but stayed there consistently, so I thought that was a little odd. Having said all of that, what is your guy's opinion about this problem? I honestly don't know where to go from here. The water pump is about two years old, there aren't any leaks and the engine is completely fine as there aren't any signs of internal problems or water in the oil. When she's not hot she runs perfectly so I'm grateful for that. I hope you guys with more experience can help me out asap! I will really appreciate it. Javier
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Fellas and Gals! I am having a problem with my cooling fans not coming on my 2006 GMC Sierra, 5.3. I can force them on by running the A/C constantly. But if the A/C isn’t on, the fans won’t come on till the truck reaches almost 230 degrees F, which I’m on the road to cracking a head at the temp. I’ve already replaced the fans, thermostat, engine temp sensor, checked to make sure I’ve got good water flow through my radiator, I’ve replaced all three cooling fan relays and I’ve checked the wiring harness. The fans will come on when I reach in there and manually unplug the harness from the temp sensor while the truck is running and it sometimes will throw a code after that. The only thing I can imagine may be happening is the CPU is not sending the ground signal to command the fans to come on when the engine reaches the appropriate temp (≈ 202, without the A/C being on). Has anyone ever experienced the CPU messing up and not send a ground signal to the system, what am I missing? S.O.S. PLEASE SEND HELP!!
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Hey guys, i have a 2005 gmc yukon with electric fans. It is the 5.3 and the electric fans will not turn on. I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and the relays and it is still inop. If i send 12v to the fans they will turn on and constant power is getting too the two 4 prong relays my tools will not fit to test the 5 prong. None of the fueses are blown either and relays have resistance to them. It has a slight hickup on startup but not much of one and sadly no they do not work with the ac on the temp will go straight past 210 when parked
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While pulling our 2013 drv mobile suites 36tksb3 5th wheel up interstate 70 headed into Denver we overheated about 1/4 mile from the summit. We pulled over and let the truck cooldown and then proceeded to finish the climb into the tunnel. Once in the tunnel we allowed the truck to coast down hill, but the truck engine temperature continued to increase until we receive the warning "Losing Power Shutoff Engine". The ambient temperature was 55 F., windows down, air off, and coasting downhill in a tunnel, and the engine shut off. With no power steering or brakes I coasted thru the tunnel and took the first exit which luckily was not a sharp turn, and there was a nice large spot to stop at the bottom. The truck operated fine on the rest of the drive to Davenport, Iowa, but since it needed a fuel filter change I took it to the local Chevy dealership. That was a week ago and they can still not tell us why it overheated, or if there is a problem we need to have fixed. They appear to be lost and trying to solve the check engine codes they found which do not appear to have anything to do with the engine overheating and shutting off. I understand we are pulling a heavy load, but I did not expect the truck to overheat with a 55 F ambient temperature. I was traveling in the slow lane, about 40 mph, and in the tow/haul mode. Does anyone have any suggestion? I am thinking about picking up my truck as it appears this dealer does not have any idea how to fix my problem.
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I have a 2007 Tahoe 2wd, 5.3L. The transmission gets hot, 190-200 degrees F, only when in overdrive. If I shift down to 3rd, the temp will start to decrease. Has anybody had this problem before or know of any solutions? Thanks. -
My Suburban was suddenly overheating whilst driving it. Does anybody know if the '07 Chevy Suburban LT have an electric fan? However, I do know that my '07 Silverado (VortecMax edition) has an electric fan. -
Hello All, Im new to the site and was wondering if i can get some info on my problem. I recently had the heater hose leak and I replace it never did my temperature ever go over 210 but now it does just past the zero on the 210 but then the fans come on and goes back to normal, i bled the system over and over then flushed the radiotor replaced the thermostat twice and the coolant sensor once and still the same problem, but what I notice if I keep the AC on my truck never over heats stay right at 210. Now Im going to replace the both serpetine belt and tensioner see if that will fix the issue but does anyone know what it may be causing it???? -
I have a 2009 trailblazer 2wd, the check engine light came on recently and I took it to the parts store to have the codes read. The code was for overheating but the temperature gauge reads normal. The light went off but came on again a few days later and now stays on. Antifreeze level is normal temp gauge is normal runs normal
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I recently purchased a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3l 4x4 from my brother in law. When delivered to my house, it had several issues, and since the cooling fans are run through the pcm I'll tell you all the little things in case it is connected somehow. 1) intermittent radical speedometer (all other guages work fine) will read 10-70 mph faster than you are actually going 2) "Y" fitting coming off of water pump going to coolant res and to firewall was leaking 3) P0480 CEL "cooling fan relay" and niether cooling fan engaging. What I've done: 1) replaced leaking fitting 2) Tested 3 relays for fan (2 of them were 4 prong and i energized 2 terminals, heard a click and tested for 0 resistance between other two terminals and these checked out fine by those standards) 1 fan relay is a 5 prong and I don't know how to test it but when circuit was energized the middle terminal still had resistance (70a i think) 3) found and replaced 2 40 amp fuses that had blown. RESULTS: Ran truck with A/C at full blast. Truck reached 210 and passenger side fan engaged to full speed and ran for about 10 minutes so I turned of a/c and the fan continued to run a few minutes then blew a fuse. Around this time, I noticed a burning smell and it seemed as if the driver side fan was smoking so I turned off truck. Turned on truck and driver side fan kicked on and ran about 60 seconds before blowing second fuse. Touched the metal part of fan and it scorched the tip of my finger. Question: I am new to GMC trucks and electric fans. I understand that the PCM sends signals to the fans because of information received from a coolant temp sensor and apparently something to do with the a/c. I do not know if the fans run simultaneously or if one is different from the other. I was also under the impression they run at low speed before high speed. Can I rule out a major issue such as PCM? can I rule out temp sensor? did I not properly test relays and it could be a relay? Could the fans be turning on but still be the culprit? Any help at all is much appreciated. -
Ok 2000 2500 with5.7 gas water pump busted and leaking , replaced pump, thermostat , belt, top hose, after truck sits about 5 min gauge starts rising in about 10 min gauge pegs and truck overheats water boils back into reservoir, top hose is soft to touch , I cycled truck on and off several time and top tank off I feel no air is in system , this is pressure system with no radiator cap , I'm stump!!!!!!!
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After I parked the truck last week the fan stayed on quite a bit longer than normal after the truck was off, I didn't think a whole lot of it at the time, but a couple days ago I got a "over temperature idle engine" warning on the DIC and watched the temperature go back and forth from dead center to max a couple times. Looked at the reservoir and there was no coolant visible at all. Ran to the store in our other vehicle and bought 2 gallons of coolant. It took the full first jug and a bit from the second to bring it up to the full cold mark. I couldn't see anywhere it would be leaking from - and I've had no pool on the driveway - but there was a definite coolant smell in the engine bay. The only thing I noticed was the visible corner of the rad that you can see (driver side) there was white residue along the top edge, not 100% sure if this is coolant or not but I suspect it may be. Have an appointment for the Onstar module replacement (2G to 4G) next week so will ask them to look into it then, until then I'll keep checking and topping it off.
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Hi, I have a 2000 GMC Sierra with a 5.3L. Last year the temperature gauge on the truck started to read a high temperature, I changed the thermostat and topped up coolant and never had the problem again. Until recently, the gauge started to read high again (not overheating though). I'm finding that at low speeds (40km/h and below) the temperature reads normal. As I got higher (up to 90km/h) the temperature starts to raise from 95-115. then cools right down when I come to a complete stop. Now the weird part of it is that whn I go on the highway the temperature will rise as i accelerate onto the highway, then after a couple minutes over 100km/h, the temperature falls right back down to normal. Then when I come off the highway, slowing down to anything under 80km/h the temperature rises again. Why could this be? Thermostat? Waterpump? Coolant? Cursed? I'm lost..
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Ok so I am stumped on this and spent to much money and my own time I am at my whits end. I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 5.3l v8 Single cab Short Wide It is over heating I have no clue why. This all started with a plastic nippe broke off my heater core since then it hasn't ran at normal temp. We first by passed it and just spliced the hoses together that didn't work then we got a new thermostat that didn't work next came the new water pump then all new hoses and a new plastic nipple for the heater core. I have flushed the block, radiator and the heater core everything was fine the water that came out was clean as could be ( Other than what LITTLE antifreeze was in the heater core) I have replaced the following Upper radiator hose Lower radiator hose The Y hose that come from the holding tank to the heater core and the water pump The one hose that connects directly from water pump to heater core. Went through 2 Thermostats both brand new one a cheap one and one a more expensive one different brand as well. New water pump and water pump gaskets I belive that is everything radiator is less than a year old had to replace that awhile back as the old one cracked So to recap i have replaced all this and it still over heats I've tried filling up everything first and running it the holding tank just fills and doesn't seem to want to let anything pass the thermo stat all the hoses get hot the lower one is bairly warm and the hoses to the heater core don't get very hot either. As a side not i did notice when i turn my defroster on or my heater or even the ac *My ac has no belt so it just blows air* But my truck ( I assume the blower fan ) makes an insane rattling and vibrating noise coming from the dash and i can't get hot hair to blow out of my truck either. Also truck has 270k miles on it if you need more info ask If anyone knows how to fix this i am in dire need please and thank you. -
1990 silverado 2500 6.0l overheating problem help!
huntyr posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
So I am dumb and I mixed regular green coolant with my dexcool and didn't know gm did Dex cool, so there was a little muk from it and I did a flush and it cleaned and everything was good, few days after my truck started to over heat, I didn't let it get too hot and got a tow home, I did a new thermostate and that didn't do it my coolant is going up and down bad and then going over the reservoir cap while burbing it, and then overheats,told it was reservoir cap, so replaced that. then found water pump wasn't pumping water so replaced that, and coolant still doing the up and down and over heating, my one friend said air pocket mayeb but I keep getting cracked heads or gasket but no oil in coolant and takes a good while for it to get hot. I am very stumped and also go told maybe my radiator but not going to replace that till I know for sure. =/ -
I have an 82 chev 3/4 ton pickup and the heater core started leaking. redirected hoses until I could fix it. I have just replaced the heater core and put on new heater hoses and now the truck is overheating. Please help!
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Bought a 2006 Sierra crew cab w/5.3 a few weeks ago. One day it got up to around 230 degrees, I turned A/C off and it cooled back down. it was only 85 degrees outside. I also noticed it took a longer than normal time to get up to temp, so I bought a thermostat for it. Before I tried to replace thermostat, I added Peak Radiator Flush to the radiator and drove it a couple of days with no problems. When I removed the breather, to replace thermostat, I noticed it had a new water pump. It also did not have a thermostat when I opened her up. It did not have antifreeze, only water. I installed thermostat and filled with water - drove it a couple of days to work (approx. 5 miles round trip), and the gauge read exactly as my 2004 Suburban always has, just under 210. When I saw there were no leaks, and it was performing correctly, I drained water and added Dexcool and distilled water 50/50. It did fine for several trips to work until yesterday when i drove it to lunch, it did it again. I tuned heater on high and it started cooling back down. Drove home that evening with no other problems. Any ideas? Thanks -
I have electric fans on a 06’ Sierra 6.0. Twice in the last 2 months (or so) I’ve had them not turn-on when they should have been on. I happened to notice because I could smell it running a little hot and my temp gauge was all the way to 210-ish. I switched on the heat to help dissipate the extra heat. When I started the truck up a few minutes later the fans turned on and all was well. (not that it should matter but I was at 8-9K ft. both times. I know this impacts the coolants’ properties but I wouldn’t think it would have any impact on the fans themselves) The only work that’s been done on the truck lately was some fluid flushes including the coolant. Seems unlikely that this would be related but thought I would mention it. Prior to me realizing it was the fans, I tested the coolant to ensure that the dealer put the right mixture in and it tested fine. The first time this happened I thought maybe they disconnected the fans during the flush process but verified that the connectors looked fine and since the fans have been running since, I ruled that out. What do I need to check next? Seems odd to me that its intermittent. Seems like it’s a sensor type issue of some sort but that doesn’t quite click for me since the gauge is reading fine. Could the thermostat be acting up? I couldn’t quite wrap my head around how that would influence the fans…. Let me know what y’all think I need to check next. Much appreciated! Sam
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I have an 08 Silverado 5.3 While towing the temp will rise to 230 or so when outside temp is above 75. When this happens I can turn the heat wide open and temp lowers to 210. I have replaced water pump, radiator, thermostat, and temp sending unit. I still see temp rising while towing, Does anybody have an suggestions?
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We have a 2001 Silverado 1500 2wd that had squealing brakes. We ended up replacing the pads and rotors on both front wheels. It worked great the day we did them, no more chirping, but now, one day later, they seem to be squealing again and they seem to be getting very hot. Did we do something wrong? How do we know if we tightened the calipers too much or if they are sliding correctly? Should we just take the tires off and grease up the slider brackets and pins in the calipers? Any suggestions would be helpful! I'm just a girl trying to save alittle money and now I think I might have screwed them up HELP
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My neighbor's '98 Silverado 6.5L had been running in the 215-225 range ever since he rebuilt it and put on the full Banks turbo kit. He changed to an aluminum radiator and bigger fan. Still ran hot. Just put in Flex-A-Lite's dual fan/radiator kit to see if that cured the heat issue. Dropped operating temps to 195-200 even sitting idling on a hot summer day here in Mississippi. Has anyone else tried one of these radiator/fdual-fan kits?
