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U0100 Lost communication with ECM U0073 CAN Bus Communication P2544 Transmission Torque Request Signal Message Counter Incorrect P0700 Transmission Control Module Requested MIL Illumination P1682 Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2 Good Morning Yall, Long time lurker, first time poster as a member, and really appreciate this forum. Recently the past year I have had some symptoms that didn’t affect the drivability of my 2014 Silverado z71 4x4 5.3, but were very present on a random basis, especially during rain. Service Stabilitrak, Service Trailer Brake(nothing being towed) popping up the screen, sometimes binging back to back for extended amounts of time near to 30 minutes frequently. Today the truck would not start, and presented these codes above under a check engine light. The truck started after having the battery disconnected for 15 minutes and has started since so far the previous 12 hours. Also while driving and the typical service notifications, one headlight being out, the truck engages the transmission at a slow roll/acceleration and a very very rough/lurching, almost feels like being rear-ended engagement, it would not engage power steering, and also presented a warning of reduced engine power. Some of these symptoms of course seem to be directly related to the codes, but seem to have progressed as time has gone on. One issue noticed was a tail light having a small crack, and a sliver of water pooled inside of it. I am unsure if that may be related to the issues present, but I have ordered new lamps. I have also previously installed a new ground cable from the battery to the block, and also verified the ground on the driver-side front beneath the dash/tweeter. The battery also tested good, so did all of the fuses on the battery side and the box side with the voltmeter. I have not checked the starter or alternator, but they are less than a year old. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Ben
09 Silverado Hard Shift
Russell Brandon posted a topic in Gen III and IV Small Block & DrivetrainMy 09 silverado 5.3 4x4 has shifted hard into 2nd and some into 3rd for several years now. A few months ago I decided to fix it. Codes were for transmission control solenoids, module, oil pressure sensor, misfires...etc. codes like P0700 P0717 P0521 P0523. I replaced all 3 shift solenoids, oil pressure sensor, and immediately the truck shifted like new again and it lasted for a few days or a week. And it started shifting hard again. Really hard. It's so frustrating. And it's throwing all the same codes again. Recently, my truck started misfiring so badly the entire truck was shaking. It was running on two cylinders. All of the ignition colis were failing all at once and the truck was not drivable. Btw, I just changed out those ignition coils, plugs and wires just two years ago, all Ac Delco plugs/wires and duralast ignition coils. So anyways, I replaced all of the coils plugs and wires again this week and the engine no longer misfires, running on all cylinders again. And for a few hours after, there was zero hard shifting now. It was running great, like new again. Shifting smooth as could be. But after making it into the city and hitting traffic lights and stop signs, it didn't take long for the very hard shifts to come back. I've read on this and have been dealing with this in time and parts for so long now. I've read about ground wires could be the cause of all of this. I have replaced everything the computer has suggested, and for a short time after the repairs, the truck would run like new. But the hard shift always comes back. I know there's people out there that have had this same problem. I've read a lot about it but without actually finding the grounds for these specific sensors, I've hit a dead end. The issue just keeps coming back as it's obvious there is a root cause I am not getting to. Please share any knowledge or experiences on this topic. And any knowledge of the location of these grounds may be at. Thank you!
I bought a Certified Pre-Owned 2010 Sierra SLE 5.3L (LC9) Vin code "3" about 3 years ago. It's stock besides a front leveling spacer on the strut, no aftermarket electrical. The truck will intermittently go into limp mode with "Service Stabilitrak & Service Traction Control" displayed on the DIC (No SES Light). Eventually when the CAN bus reboots the SES light illuminates. After clearing the codes it drives normal until it happens again. I've had it happen on the freeway, in park, on normal surface roads, over bumps, doesn't seem to be a reason why or when it occurs other than outside temps. The odd thing is it only acts up when its warmer than 60 Degrees outside, this winter she drove fine without a single hiccup. Which tells me it might be an internal module failure... However, I've had it happen in the same spot on the way to work several times. When I pull the DTC's it's from modules that lost communication on the high speed CAN/LAN buss or modules requesting MIL because of no ability to communicate. DTC's: U0073 - Communication Bus A OFF U0100 - Lost Comm with ECM U0101 - Lost Comm with TCM P0700 - TCM Request MIL P069E - Fuel Pump Control Module Request MIL U0140 - Lost Comm with BCM U0121 - Lost Comm with EBCM U0102 - Lost Comm with Transfer Case Cntrl Module - I've replaced the battery (Optima Red Top), cleaned the terminals and cleaned Mega Fuse. Tested Alternator with a Midtronics GR8 - Cleaned the Grounds on the Front Engine Block, Fire Wall, Chassis under drivers door, front frame by radiator. (Hood to Firewall ground strap missing) - Removed the UBEC fuse block and swapped relays, no corrosion, applied dielectric grease. - Removed the TPA lock on the TCM/ Trans connector, checked for backed out terminals or ATF leaking. Found nothing abnormal. - Checked the Harness from the TCM going up to the Engine Block, nothing abnormal. - Checked EBCM connectors & harness, nothing abnormal - Checked FPCM connectors & harness, nothing abnormal - Replaced 120 Ohm Terminating Resistor (Twice) - Checked ECM connectors & harness, nothing abnormal - Checked BCM Connectors, nothing abnormal - Checked harness on top of engine, nothing - Using a DLC Break-out box, I have 60 ohms on PIN 14 (CAN High), but haven't been able to test when it acts up. - I can talk to most modules with my scan tool when the CAN bus is online, if I plug it in just after the bus went down, I cant communicate and have to wait until the bus reboots to clear the codes and get back on the road. I used to be able to clear the codes "on the fly" while driving but it seems like its taking the bus longer to reboot as time goes on. Just ordered new Positive and Negative battery cables, and the Hood ground (not sure why the hood needs a ground) Could the VCIM module be bad? The truck is pretty much babied since I've had it, I change the oil myself every 2-3k (fear of AFM issues). Any help is much appreciated. I'm running out of ideas.
Possible cause of DTC P0777 for a 6L80 transmission - especially after a re-build, upgrade, or maintenance of the valve body (a chapter from my upcoming book, "Learn from my mistakes!") Here's the context: 2007 GMC Yukon Denali 6L80 Transmission (Early, 1st Design, original equipment, no prior work or refurbishment actions taken on this transmission/valve body/TEHCM (TCM) - just trans fluid change and filter change) 195,000 miles (not bad, eh?) 6.2 Liter L92 engine (Original Equipment, no serious work has ever been needed, never rebuilt - just well maintained) Vehicle is - from an interior perspective - 95% 'new'. I've spent the last couple of years restoring it. I've spent time and money on everything from new carpets to a new dashboard, HVAC assembly (in-dash), new seats, new seat motors, new windshield, new everything, for the most part I've done all this work myself. I've built up quite a tool collection and quite a bit of knowledge I work in the world of IT (Digital Experience Strategy for large and medium-sized companies) Being in this field of IT means I work all day in a world of total ambiguity and chaos where nothing is ever cut and dry and the options, ideas, and risks are endless...as are the personalities I deal with. Working on my vehicle - along with vehicle's owned by friends and family aware of my growing skill-set - provides me a level of calm and relaxation I can't find elsewhere How This Story Originates: In the last 4 to 6 months, I've noticed the transmission exhibiting a moderate 'clunk' when - IMO - it is shifting down from 3rd gear to 2nd gear, or during any low-load, low-RPM upshift from 2nd to 3rd gear. This happens only when there is low RPM / low 'Load' on the engine...followed by a quick increase in requested 'load'. For context, a situation wherein it commonly happens is during a slow-down at a stop light and my intentions are to turn right. I.e., 'right on red' with a slow, cautious crawl for safety. Assume no cars / traffic to negotiate (for simplicity). I'd say I'd be going at about 10 to 15 miles per hour...perhaps as much as 20 to 25 miles per hour...from a pre-braking speed of ~30 to 40 mph. I would take my foot off the accelerator about 100 to 150 feet before the red light and apply light braking. Once I'm in a position to begin my right turn safely, I would take my foot from the brake and apply ~30% to 50% throttle on the accelerator. At this point wherein I engage the throttle, it seems as if the transmission doesn't know which gear to be in. While it only takes about a second, it eventually chooses 2nd gear but in the process it makes a noticeable 'clunk'. To mitigate this 'clunk' I usually try to feather the throttle up a little bit before I'm about to release the brake (i.e., 2 - footed driving). Slowly getting the RPM's up above 1,000 before starting my right turn and releasing the brake seems to negate the clunk. I've also noticed this clunk never really occurs until the transmission fluid temperature reaches about 110 (or above) Fahrenheit ( + /- 10 degrees). All other gear shifts in all other situations are rather comfortable and exhibit no observable issues. The transmission (nor the engine) never produces any DTC codes. Using a capable scan tool to reset the Trans Adapts and manually doing the Garage Shift procedure doesn't result in a 'fix'. Neither has anything else I've tried. I have not - to this day - ever tried doing a "Service Fast Learn". This is a procedure only incorporated into a few of the highly expensive scan tools such as the OE Tech2 and the Snap-On. My Autel Maxisys Elite definitely doesn't have this special function. One of these day's I'll have this procedure done by the Dealer or someone with a capable tool. Last weekend, I decided to install a Sonnax Zip Kit for the 6L80. My thought process was that the temperature increase of the trans fluid was a key indicator and gave me good direction. I was thinking pressure was being lost when the internal components of the valve body heated up to a certain point and expanded ever-so-slightly...we're talking a thousandth or so of a millimeter in various places throughout the valve body veins / assembly...but enough where some trans fluid pressure was being lost in key areas and causing the resulting clunk. Because the valves themselves were a different metal (and some of them a type of polymer / plastic) and probably not expanding like the valve body casing, I figured this was a good enough hypothesis to start working against. The Troubles Begin.... To make a long story shorter for you TLDR-er's, the Zip Kit is now installed and the shifting concerns seem alleviated. I'll give it another couple weeks to make a full conclusion, however. But the big story I wanted to share was about a mistake I made during the installation of the Zip Kit...but I imagine it could happen during any valve body refurbishment, upgrade, or maintenance. It has nothing to do with the Zip Kit itself. The Zip Kit was well manufactured and has fantastic instructions...with pictures too! The Zip Kit installation - plus a desire to inspect and clean all valves - simply gave me the opportunity to make the massive screw-up which occurred. So to help out fellow techs or DIY'ers who may experience this in the future, I have attached a summary pictorial explaining what I did and what it caused...along with the now-obvious solution. Initial Start-up and Test Post-Cleaning, Assembly, Refurbishment - aka, "The Crucible": What should have taken just about 3 hours to complete ended up taking 4 days. After putting everything back together the first time, I started the vehicle. I left it in Park for about five minutes. No unusual noises, no "Check Engine" lights. Normal oil pressure, normal slow rise in trans fluid temperature. Normal idle RPM's. I shifted from Park to Reverse and back to Park - allowing about 3 seconds between each move. This was an effort to flush air out of the veins/pump which may have accumulated during the overnight hours (I started this job in the evening but didn't re-install the valve body and other components until the next morning.) I then shifted from Park to Drive. I expected - as one usually does - to feel the torque and the car's desire to move forward. But no, there was no forward engagement whatsoever. I then shifted back to Park and let it sit for a minute. I shifted to Reverse - no reverse engagement. I left it in Reverse for 5 to 10 seconds thinking it will engage once the 'air is pushed out from the pump and valve body veins'...and that's when the Check Engine light came on. Silly me. I put it back in Park. I figured, let's try this again...maybe it was a solar flare or perhaps CNN is talking about Mueller again... Nope - same bad result - no forward, no reverse, not even the sound of it trying to engage. From Drive I was moving the shift lever back towards Park...and during that time I stopped briefly at Neutral. A faint squeal noise was observed from the transmission. Knowing that a squeal noise coming from a transmission is not SKOOKUM (h/t Ave on YouTube - one of my all-time favorites), I left it in Park and shut the engine off. Exhausted, bewildered, and full of self-doubt, I removed the valve body and TEHCM two more times. For anyone familiar with accessing the transmission valve body on a 2007 - 2013 Yukon (and perhaps 2014 and beyond), you know it's not easy. Each time, the catalytic converters need to be moved / dropped. This means the O2 sensors need to be removed, the front drive shaft needs to be undone and moved off to the side a bit, the front right wheel and wheel well cover need to be removed, etc. etc. ....in addition to draining the trans fluid oil and making a mess of your garage floor and yourself. I did this without a lift...only a jack and jack stands...making me ache and strain in ways I haven't felt in years. Note to DIY's...it takes the catalytic converters a bit more time than you think in order to cool down to a manageable level...ask me how I know. Each time I went over the instructions for the Zip Kit step-by-step to make sure I put the pieces where they were supposed to go. Each time I questioned most everything about how I put things back together - were the seals matching up correctly? Were the electronics / wires completely connected? Were there any green fuzzies on the main connector going from the outside of the trans and into the transmission case? Were there any cut or broken wires I didn't notice or failed to inspect? Each time I examined every piece that I had touched and questioned everything!...or so I thought. The struggle was REAL! Approximately 8 liters of new Dexron VI ATF - along with both hands, the right side of my jaw, and my lower back - were abused in the process of this event. The Cause: In short, during the re-assembly of valves which I had removed for cleaning, I put two of them in backwards. When they were first re-installed, they seemed to fit and it appeared how I re-installed them was exactly how I took them out. But I was incredibly wrong on both points. It wasn't until I noticed the ATSG manual's depiction of the valve body assembly diagrams - and comparing them to how I had re-installed my valves - that I finally realized the reasons for DTC's p0777 and p0700 suddenly appearing. For SEO, (but explained in the pictorial), I'll simply say that DTC p0777 is "Clutch Pressure Control (CPC) Solenoid 2, Stuck ON" and was the only result post-assembly and start-up. However in the end there was nothing wrong with solenoid 2 whatsoever. The TCM/ECU only threw that code because the situation matched the DTC p0777 trigger conditions. At that point I was really close to spending ~ $600 bucks on a new TEHCM...and that's when I noticed I had installed Clutch Select Valve 2 and Clutch Select Valve 3 backwards. THANK THE GOOD PEOPLE AT ATSG WHO MAKE GOOD TRANSMISSION MANUALS..SPECIFICALLY THE DIAGRAMS (if only they were in color, btw.) Now getting people to read carefully...a different story , of course. I couldn't find too much on DTC P0777, so I suppose it's rare. But if you ever come across this DTC or other "solenoid stuck", "solenoid failed" types of codes - and especially if you've just completed a refurbishing / cleaning / Zip-Kit installation on your valve body - take triple notice of how you reassembled and re-installed those valves....ALL OF THEM! Thanks for your time, Jeff Alpharetta, GA