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Found 10 results

  1. I apologize for the novel, but here we go! Alright, so 2011 Tahoe 5.3 LMG Flex vin 0, 158k miles, never given me any issues ever before. Drove it up on ramps last night to get under it to just check everything before I tow a trailer over the weekend. All fine and dandy. Go to start it to back off of the ramps-dash and running lighter all turn on. Turn the key to ignition and....nothing. If I try to remote start it, I just get an electronic noise. Took the starter off last night and tested it multiple times at my work (advance auto) and my starter was super dead. Sweet, found my issue, right? Got a new starter. Put it on. Still no crank. No click. No nothing except everything else on the truck acts like it normally would when you turn the key. I checked connection between the positive terminal on battery and the starter with a multimeter -just fine. My battery is perfectly fine. Tested it multiple times now. Have a charger. Made sure it's fully charged. Double and triple checked. Looked at all the applicable fuses I can think ofand swapped the starter relay with the ac relay (they are identical) and it changed nothing. This then led me to believe maybe the ignition switch in the steering column was bad. Put a new one in today. Same exact issue. It changed absolutely nothing. Everything turns on but no crank and no relay sounds or anything. Almost thinking that something isn't sending the signal to the little wire connector that is on the starter selenoid (attached to the starter). But I feel like I've checked everything that could block that. I'm running out of ideas and I NEED (super awesome timing!) this truck to move from Lincoln to Omaha starting tomorrow ugh Was wondering if putting 12v constant to that little plug wire on the starter solenoid may skip whatever is not sending the signal, which I guess would just confirm that there's no signal. I dunno. 8+hours into this so far. First time this truck has ever given me issues in 158k miles. Also, no, it will not start in neutral. Any tips would be awesome!
  2. Hey fellas, I have a 2014 with the 5.3 engine with around 80k miles and every time i start the engine it makes a squeaking noise either Hot or Cold. Sounds like belts but changed them all, lube them and still there? Anyone with this issue? Thanks.
  3. I just bought a 1991 Chevy C70 Kodiak C7H042 6.6L 403 CUI Diesel in amazingly great condition. I am now the 3rd owner of this dump truck. The first owner took great care of the vehicle, everything thing appears to be well maintained and no shade tree work. All the parts, wiring and accessories appear to be original and well maintained. However, the second owner bought this truck and never used it. It has sat in a field for about four years. To get to the point, I completely serviced the truck and replaced the batteries, checked the fuses, grounds, relays and I have absolutely no power to the truck. No interior or exterior lights and no lights on the instrument panel. What could be the issue?
  4. Hello - would anyone know or have experience with cranking activation causing DIC to go blank. Recently when trying to start the 5.3L I get a click, sometimes 2 then the DIC blanks out and I have to jump start to get engine to fire. Even after a battery replacement this intermittent issue leaves me stranded - yesterdays attempt to jump lead to truck dying once putting in gear (2 times) - Hoping someone has experienced this very problematic issue, ill build the story below. No issues to date with starting, Ive had the vehicle for 14 months now. A few days back headed to store and everything is dead - no chimes, no lights, nothing. Jump box in place, fire up truck drive to complete errand - volt meter at dash right on 14 volts. Trying to head back home, first try to crank, one click and everything goes dead again. Jump start, normal readings on return trip home - put trickle charger on all night (not much current draw). Fires right up next day off to work. Let sit 10 hours - use DMM and read 12.6V at battery before cranking, starts right up and DMM shows 14.6V with engine running. Let sit some hours and DMM at 12.4V, let charge overnight, fires right up. Let sit at work lot for 9 hours, DMM reading at 12.6V before cranking, try to ignite engine, clicks once but fires up - stop on way home for new battery. All fixed right - NOPE After new battery installed all readings look good. 9 days later first thing in the morning, one click like dead but fires. Set at work lot all day, DMM reading before cranking at 12.5V - try to start nothing - jump start to get to appointment. After 30 minute appointment, no fire DIC dead again at key on - jump start put in reverse engine dies - jump start #2 put in gear engine dies - jump start #3 drive home with jump box attached to battery. Each time engine started I got a DIC message to put drivers window down and back up before I put it in gear - window was down, activating it up makes message go away. No other faults at DIC - no indication of weak battery and all normal until 10 days ago?????? My typical start sequence is: turn key to on position, wait for 5 charms then start engine - zero problems in 14 months until last 2 weeks - dash volt meter has always been hovering around 14volts, so charging system not in question. Seems every time I connect a jump box, charger or remove and re-install cables I can get vehicle running normal - until next start up. I read about bad ground cables - tough to find out there right now Looking for help - ideas - experiences with similar issues - next steps
  5. I have had the 2015 truck in a storage facility for the past 4 months due to lack of parking space at my house. Today the Mrs told me she wanted to go get the truck and use it for a Christmas trip. My first thought was I will have to jump the thing off after sitting that long. After some nagging from her, sorry, I meant to say after she ask me a couple of times to bring the truck home, we loaded up and went to get it. I have read other post here about battery life not being very long when leaving the truck parked. We drove up, she went to hit the remote start, but hit the panic alarm on the key fob. Lights blinking, horn blaring...a good sign. She handed me the fob and I killed the alarm, hit the lock and start and it fired right up. I can report that the battery should last several months as long as nothing is left on, at least in the warm south. As soon as we started driving on the road, the truck started the infamous vibration. This thing will shake the fizz out of a canned Coke in 5 miles. There is not a doubt in my mind that the tires are causing this. She drove smooth as silk until parked. The truck is a 2wd with the 20 inch rims, sport suspension, and Goodyear tires. I will crawl under it in the morning and see if maybe a weight fell off, or maybe something built a nest on the inside of the rim. My guess is the tires are just flat spotted from sitting. I have had tires flat spot before and they seem to "round back out" after about 50 miles or so. I noticed the air pressure fell from 34 psi in the summer when it was 95 degrees outside to 28 psi today. BTW, it was 86 degrees here today when I picked it up. Finally, for some reason the time on the clock was WAY off. It was about 5:45PM and the clock was showing 3:15.
  6. Greetings and happy holidays! Thanks in advance for reading and sharing your experience. SITUATION MAKE: CHEVROLET MODEL: SILVERADO 2500HD REGULAR CAB YEAR: 2001 TYPE: PICKUP ENGINE: GM VORTEC 8100 V8 8.1L (496 CID) ACCESSORY PACKAGE: LS ISSUE: The truck is in good shape for the age and has about 74,000 miles on it. Drove it all day yesterday making a thousand stops for last-minute Christmas stuff (good job there) and everything was fine - no weird sounds, trouble starting or other issues. Jumped in it this morning to go after some eggnog (disappeared last night somehow) and it would not start. I had bright lights, loud horn, and the door-open dinger was blaring as usual, but I got no crank at all. Instead all I could hear was this weird electrical buzzing sound. Listen here: https://www.youtube.com/embed/eHYbQmNW7fg?rel=0&controls=0&showinfo=0 Tested the battery and it was at a full charge, so not that. But what? Has anyone ever had, seen, or heard of this before?
  7. I have a 2007 V8 4.8 L Chevy Silverado 1500 LT and I turn the key to start it and sometimes nothing happens at all like the battery is dead (no dash lights, no anything). I try a few more times and nothing. Then I get back in it an hour later and it starts right up. Replaced Starter, battery is not an issue and problem still remains. Can anyone help?
  8. 97 Sierra fails to start most of the time. What I do to see if it's going to start or not cost me a starter.. Turn the key over, not enough to kick off the starter, but just to see the dash lights, 90% of the time, I can do this and no dash lights kick in. after a few tries they sometimes come on, and i know i can turn over the engine and it will start. So I get in my truck, turn the key over and over and over ( without engaging starter ) and the lights will eventually show and it always starts, but it's taken 20minutes before. What I've replaced Frayed Battery Cable from Battery to Fuse Box. I didn't get the perfect cable, and my shop tech said it should be okay, but they put little washers in there because it wasn't lining up perfectly with the other positive battery cable ( there's 2 + the little one to the alternator ). - Fuel Pump - Starter - Spark Plugs about 2 years ago, less than 6km driven since. - Battery I've also got an external battery charger that tells me the battery is fully charged, so I don't think the alternator is failing. I'm thinking it could be the hacky new battery cable. What do you guys think?
  9. Well, I got one for all you guys, this is really has me stumped. My truck: 08 Avalanche 4x4, 5.3, 82K miles I have a situation where the engine will not start sometimes. I turn the key, power comes on to the accessories, but the starter won't engage. I have a new good battery, so that's not it. The funny thing is, it won't start when you try to jump start it either. I put the jumper cable on the battery positive and the ground clamp on to a stud on the engine block. There is no battery draw-down from the doner battery vehicle, and no 12v snap when you hook up the cables that you typically see when you jump start someone.Turn the key - nothing, just accessories (radio, guages, fan etc) come on. No click from the starter solenoid. I took the battery out, had it tested (was good) put it back in and it started right up. This past Tuesday, when I tried to start to go home, wouldn't crank. We tried to jump start it without success, so had it transported to my dealer. As soon as they off loaded it, it started right up, just like normal. It has been at my dealer for 2 days and they cannot reproduce the problem. They have driven it around, tested cables for shorts, but have found nothing. The regional tech has been contacted, but still no solution. I have noticed one thing that may be related - If the truck gets wet from rain, then the door chime sounds tinny and the radio speakers have a distortion until things dry out, so there has to be some corrosion on some circuit somewhere. Thanks for any help you can give!
  10. I own a 2007 Chevy Classic Silverado V6 2WD. 128,000 miles. Never had any starting issues. I went to start it this morning and it cranked but would not start. Sounded like it would catch a couple of times.Battery went dead after several tries. Charged the battery. It has a full tank of gas. Checked a plug wire and got spark. Got spark at the coil but it looked like thespark was at the base so I replaced the coil. No change. Poured alittle gas in the throttle body. Nothing. Let things dry out for awhile then tried starting by spraying some starter fluid. Nothing. Turned the key and listened for the fuel pump several times. It goes on each time. Gas came out of the line when I pushed the inline valve in but I did not check the pressure. A fuel delivery problem doesn't make sense to me because nothing happens when I spray starter fluid in the throttle body with the air filter intake removed. I checked various fuses and all were fine. I plan to put a new cap, rotor, wires, and plugs in tomorrow. I did have a P0036 error code which I think is a sensor. I don't think that would prevent the truck from starting but I'm not sure. Any suggestions?
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