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Showing results for tags 'transmision'.
Found 20 results
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I'm going to need to have the torque converter on my 2013 Silverado 2500 6.0 replaced & would like to have a price range in mind of what it should cost all said & done when I go to the shop so I don't get ripped off. I know rates & such vary depending on location (I'm in NJ) but I'm just looking for a round about price for this specific truck, maybe from someone who's been there & done that.. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! -
Hello I have a 2018 Silverado (6l80) I’ve recently had my transmission rebuilt along with a billet converter installed about 6 months ago. Truck runs fine but I’ve noticed my temperature get up to 200-220 when at idle. Once I hit the road it drops down between 170-190, when running on the highway I’m at 150-170. I’m also running a sure cool for the thermostat. Any idea why it would get up to those temps during idle ?
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Hello, I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 4X4, 110,000 miles, was driving down the road and suddenly stopped moving, truck still on but won't move. Goes into drive and reverse but wont move. No check engine light, transmission fluid full, and clean, no crazy noises. Any clue what it could be? I have been told the linkage, or the transmission pump... Any advice is appreciated. -
Hello everyone. I've recently purchased a 2020 Silverado 1500 from a dealership. I found out late in the sale that the truck was used as the dealerships "loaner" which didn't really bother me even though I know people beat up those vehicles. Anyway, I'm pretty in-tune to vehicle sounds and I had a couple of questions regarding noises I'm hearing from my vehicle. The first is a clunking noise and a physical jolt when I shift from Drive to Reverse. I have my foot on the brake and am on a flat surface. I notice it a lot after I've been driving for a while and go to back into my garage. I took the truck back to the dealership and they chalked it up to bad U-joints. They slapped 2 fresh sets on, but I've still go the issue. Any ideas what it may be? I don't feel like anything is going to fail, but I also don't like the sound and don't think it should be that way. I have another service appointment next week and I'd like to help them out with ideas considering they don't really seem to care. The second is a ticking noise coming from the undercarriage. I' got under the truck today and believe it's coming from the rear portion of the engine, but I'm not for certain as I've never been beneath the truck while it's been on a rack. The noise cannot be heard when standing at the front with the hood up, but I can hear it very noticeably when standing at the driver's door. I do not hear it as the engine is heating up, but that could be because every other component under the hood is loud as h*ll while the truck is heating up. Once the engine is approaching operating temp, it's very noticeable. As you can hear from the short video, it's every .5 to 1 second or so and is always present during idling. Again, may not be a big issue, but I hate hearing things on my vehicles that I can't attribute to something else. Thanks for reading my ramblings. I can try to post longer videos if anyone needs. Thanks in advance! IMG_8898_Trim_Trim (2).mp4 IMG_8910_Trim (2).mp4 -
Hey guys, I have a 2017 Silverado 1500. A month or 2 ago I had to get the transmission replaced, it’s still shifting very odd and just feels off. Jerking when going into certain gears, doesn’t want to shift at times etc. Is there anything I should take care of myself before taking it to the dealership again… this new trans has a 3 year warranty. Sorry that I am not the best at explaining issues like this, so any help is much appreciated
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Hello im new to this forum. I have been searching for silimar sounds my truck is making on here but i can't seem to find one. So my truck is a 2020 silverado rst 5.3 8 speed crewcab 4x4 and has 1,600 miles. It makes this clicking sound similar to a clock. I went underneath the truck to listen for the sound and it appears to be coming from transmission area. Any thoughts of what the sound is? Ill attach a sound clip. Its a cold start but it also does it when its warmed up. 20201103_053649_2_1.mp4 -
My truck has been having shifting issues and so far I haven’t really found anything on the internet that exactly describes what is going on. In the best way I can think to word it, here is what happens… When cruising in the 50’s (mph) if I’m lightly on the throttle the truck will upshift but will have a delayed shift. The rpm’s will jump and then a clunk will follow once the gear engages. It happens every drive where I reach speeds of at least 45ish. When I count the gears out it seems like it’s between 5th and 6th which I recently learned that both are overdrive gears (at least that’s what I was told by a salesman who was selling in 2013). My truck has 109k and no mechanical issues on the car fax from the previous owner, I am the second. Any insight would be helpful, thanks! -
So I was driving then saw smoke pulled over then all the fluid was just poring out, it was on the left side of the transmission, don’t think it was the first time old owner had new field in the bottle, a funnel, and the fluid that came out looked new not even 1000miles. What could it be. Truck was 4.8l but switched to 5.3l. Truck is bagged but didn’t low to hit anything
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First post, been a lurker for 3 yrs...2017 High Country w/ 101K. Lost 6,7,8, gears and truck wont shift past 5th at all. Similar symptoms to others, hard hesitation then super high RPMs (low gear limp mode). Dealer inspects and says fluid is so gummed up the valve body, solenoids and some other sh*t is "stuck" and there is metal everywhere. Yep, had the torque converter issue at 30K, with dealer flush. $5K for a new trans with a better warranty than the stock, 3yr/100K...wtf. Apparently any "updates" GM has made will be in this shiny turd of a sh*t show. Anyway...after this disaster, I'm in prevention mode...new fluid after the first 10K, then every 20k (trans, diffs, transfer). Oil every 5k, this 8L90 sucks azz.
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Hey y’all, this is my second post on this forum. I just picked up a 2000 Chevy. 5.3 4l60e (I know shocking) and the guy claimed to have put a rebuilt trans in the truck, well then he claimed it was the second one he put in, in just a couple months. My guess is bad mechanic. Anyways. The trans shifts fine when it’s cold. All gears work perfect (which is when I test drove it) well when the truck warms up (roughly 150-190 when it starts) the trans slips in all gears, UNLESS it’s between 2500-3700 rpm. It grabs good then. I noticed it because I’ll start going from a red light, it’ll slip a bit and I’ll have to put more gas into it, and then it hits about 2500 rpm and it’ll grab and take off then when it hits about 3700 rpm it’ll start slipping again. It does this in every gear. At first I was thinking the trans pump thinking it wasn’t getting enough lubrication to all the parts. But then I thought it was low on fluid, well it’s fine on fluid. Then I thought maybe it was the converter because it’s the same one from the first rebuilt trans (supposedly). I’ll drop it off at a shop in a few days. But I’m sure I’m looking at a rebuild? I’m wanting to swap in a 6.0 over the summer, so I’m guessing I should go ahead and have a built one dropped in? Shift kit with vette servos? That’s what I keep hearing to do. Or should I just deal with it for now and wait for it to blow completely and do the whole engine and trans swap at the same time? Sadly I’ll have to pay someone to do it all for me cause I don’t have the tools or space to do it. But this 5.3 is also having “worn out” issues with oil pressure, as it’s the original with 262k on it (with a gasket rebuild on it supposedly). Thanks for the input in advance!!
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I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 4x4 5.3l V8 with the 8 speed transmission. I already flushed out my transmission and filled it back up with the Mobil 1™ Synthetic LV ATF HP blue label. The question is, do i also use the HP fluid for my transfer case? Or do i need to use just a standard ATF fluid instead. I cant seem to find a straight answer on this. The owners manual states to use DEXRON®-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid. Would using regular ATF in the transfer case and HP ATF in the transmission cause any issues? Thanks in advance! -
2016 Silverado 1500 5.3L 6-speed RWD. 106K miles. Note: this is a possible root cause based on my towing 300+ every couple of weeks, in addition to heavy cargo. Also, my driving habits may have been on the lugging side. Bought used at 33k, first 30k modest work driving (tolerable cargo, 70-30 highway-city). Symptoms: (After trouble-shooting a poorly mounted injector pump-another post on that) if rpms were below 2500 and I was giving slight more throttle, tach would bounce 100-200 and I could feel a shudder (couple of times heard a grinding/clicking). Never got a code-took to dealership but they wouldn't diagnose it. Was using valvoline atf, did an exchange 20k early, no change. Drove it 6k until i could get to a trans shop (in manual and tow). Diagnosis: Trans pump was failing, possibly because Valvoline never replaced the filter, or just age (and driving). They had to also replace TCC, so final $ was around 5000. Stick with a Tranny shop, have the filter replaced everytime, and stick with the Dextron 6. Also be aware of other codes that may put more strain on the pump. -
I have a 2003 Chevy 2500hd 6.6l diesel. All gears and shifting were working fine. Pulled out on highway today and had to get on it. When going through gears I heard it slip up and rev as if it slipped out of gear. I slowed down and got off road. It seemed to be stuck in 3rd gear. I tried putting it into reverse and it would not work. The shifter doesn’t even feel like it’s moving into gear when I move into reverse. When I move shifter to Drive, it sounds very rough and it starts off in 3rd gear. The truck will not shift out of this stuck gear, not even go into reverse. Had to put home slowly in that gear range. Need some help, What’s going on?
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I currently have a 2017 Silverado LTZ with 8 speed transmission thats lifted 4" with 35" tires. The truck is currently at 39K mileage and I was looking into upgrading my transmission cooling to take the wear off my transmission by allowing it to run cooler. My thought was to run a mishimoto transmission cooler, B&M transmission pan along with running the Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP to avoid the possible shudder everyone is having with there transmission. Couple of concerns that I have is doing that will increase my fluid capacity which I have no way of checking the correct level since these transmissions have no dipstick. Any aftermarket dipstick like the one from B&M doesn't have an indicator mark, you have to mark it once you first install it. Any ideas around this to ensure I am getting the correct levels? Don't want to overfill or under fill my transmission. Or is this whole idea just a bad one all together? -
Hello all, I am having a bit of trouble with my truck when under light throttle. Between 1000-1700rpm when driving with no load my 5.3L starts to surge about 50rpm with a increase in felt power when it happens. I am also hearing a vibration or light grinding sound. From my reading I’m thinking this could be a torque converter issue maybe the shift solenoid. When the truck is in tow mode I don’t notice the issue but if I leave grade braking on when the truck downshifts it does not feel normal or what I’m used to when I tow. It’s somewhat harsher. Thank you all for your time I sure appreciate everyone. Update: I just noticed when I go between Drive and Reverse it’s takes it a second to move then it jumps a little. Checked trans fluid looks good. -
So I have 1997 suburban 1500 2wd 5.7l went to install a train nor the other day didn't get around to it I might add. Had battery disconnected for a bit. Next day it started out driving fine. Felt a wierd flutter going down the highway. Stopped at the store and could barely reverse took basically sitting on the pedal keeping rpm a little over 1200. Went in to drive just fine. By the next stoplight take off felt sluggish. Now it will barely get to moving at all. Electrical issue or what???? RpMs solid at idle around 650, doesn't have the mysterious rough idle or anything like that chased that's thru a full engine rebuild just about with my last suburban. Haven't had this one too long but seemed well taken care of I'm the second owner a school had it before me. So I figure all the maintenance was kept up. Got about 145,000 miles on it trans fluids clean and around proper levels. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping its not a transmission failure don't see that just happening out of the blue without prior signs or behavior -
I have not seen a whole lot posted on this and tried to search first. Recently I started noticing a rough shift pattern. I can't tell if its 2-3, 3-4 or 3-4,4-5. It is under light acceleration and been a bit colder. It seems to lurch when making those two shifts. I need to do some driving to test further to see if it progresses through the rest of the shifts or clears up after warmed up. Curious if anyone else has run into this and if there are any troubleshooting steps I can do without any special tools/scanners. I am due for a scheduled visit to the dealer and will have them look into it but found the more information I can provide them the better. Still under powertrain warranty (5 year/100k) I don't have the TCC shudder anymore after the latest fluid change about a year ago but I have gone through a few fluid changes and a TCC replacement. I have read where if this clears up when its not cold that may be expected. I'm wondering if I have a solenoid starting to freeze. Probably not a lot I can do without a scan tool that can read from TCM but thought I'd ask. -
Hey guys and gals I was hoping y’all could answer a question of mine. I currently own a 2019 Silverado trail boss with the 5.3 and 6 speed transmission. A mechanic told me the transmission is a ticking time bomb if I do any performance mods. Such as a cam swap and tune. So I explained my plan for the future. Cold air intake, flow master exhaust, headers, tune and cam swap. He said if I do any of the big changes to the engine the tranny may go out. The reason why is because the stock transmission was only made to handle the stock HP and TQ. Have any of y’all had an issue like this after some big performance mods? -
I have a 92 chevy 1500 recently my t case went out so I took it out and it turns out that the back of the tailshaft housing is broke, I was wondering if that is a removable tailhousing or if I need to get a whole tranny
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Okay, I believe I am starting to get the dreaded shudder. Long story short, I am getting a shudder from 68mph-90mph ONLY under throttle, smooth as silk when letting off the throttle. Truck is a 2018 Sierra SLT CCSB 6.2 8 speed with 4,058 miles. Only Mods (that might have a remote chance of changing the stock characteristics) done are 2.25 level, 275/60R20 BFG K02 tires, Borla ATAK Cat-back, Denali cluster (don't see how but figured I'd list it), RXP dual catch can, Range AFM disable and Pedal Commander (set at Sport+1). I want to get OPINIONS on a course of action. I am considering foregoing the warranty by having the complete fluid flush, buying an unlocked TCM, having it tuned and pressing on. Is this going to cure the shudder or am I just grasping at straws? I do not know how to tune in today's world of tunes, I just want the darn thing to last and function as it should. I remember @1SLOW1500 mentioning the transmission is "stuck in the middle of a fight with the engine management and ever changing trans software" and that makes sense to me. So will a properly tuned (and yes I will have to pay someone to do it right) TCM along with the flush help/cure the shudder problems or is it just somehow masking it? Please don't start a pissing contest, I am seeking opinions. I was always one to believe that this would not happen to me and this is a rare occurrence only being highlighted in the forums...it still may be a rare occurrence but I am now part of that minority.
