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Showing results for tags 'transmission fluid'.
Found 4 results
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Has anyone else used the AMSOIL OE ATF over the Signature Series in their 8 Speed? Any issues? Looking to get a flush done soon and want to make sure the fluid is compatible. I'd rather not shell out $300 CAD for the signature series when the OE will do. Thanks. -
Hi all, I am new here, but I just got done doing a transmission filter replacement on my 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 (4 speed auto). I watched some DIYs on youtube and looked at some forums, but they all said to drop the exhaust down and that was an issue for me. I didn't have a socket that worked on there, one was too deep, the other was too shallow, and they were a PITA to break loose, so I went another route without dropping it and it worked fine! On a side note, while I was down there I did the front and rear differential and transfer case fluids, too. They are easy, just drain and fill until it flows out. I used a $6 hand pump off amazon that screws right into 1qt bottles of fluid. You can use the same kind of hand pump to drain the transmission pan fluid once it drops to reduce the mess, but I just embraced it and let it spill out all over. Anyway, here is what I did... Tools: 10mm socket 13mm socket T40 torx bit 1. Remove the heat shield from the side of the transmission pan, it's just in the way. 2. Remove one torx bolt and loosen the other above the shift cable bracket. This allows you to slide it out of the way for extra clearance to the pan bolts and gives the needed clearance to get the pan out. Note that there is very little clearance here and all I could do was get a torx socket on there and use a 1/4" wrench for leverage, but it worked! 3. Remove the pan bolts. It is helpful to leave a couple in so you can control where all the fluid drains out. Drop one corner and let it drain out in as controlled of a manner as you can. It's messy, especially if your truck doesn't fit in the garage and it's a windy day like I had! 4. Remove the pan with a little wiggling, it should slide right out. Pop the old filter out and the new one in. 5. Clean it thoroughly and get the sludge off the magnets. It might be my imagination, but I think one side of the magnet stuck better, so just test it out when you put them back. 6. Put the new gasket on and feed the bolts in. You will have to leave the back row of bolts out in order to clear the part above the exhaust crossover under the pan. 7. Bolt it in and re-install the heat shield and shift cable bracket. I didn't get any torque specs, but they were really easy to remove, so I just tightened them down mechanically tight. 8. Fill with fluid, it took about 6qt initially, but I have to go for a good long drive yet to warm it up and check it again. Hope this helps, it's way easier than trying to get the dang exhaust system to drop down! I mean really, look at how they located these bolts, I'd need 3 different sockets, a swivel, and a couple crows foot wrenches to break and remove all that crap including the sensor, no thanks! If you have any suggestions let me know, peace!- 1 reply
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Hey guys, just joined, looking for help! I just changed out my water pump (harmonic balancer bolt was a real joy) anyway, I got it all buttoned back up and the bypass pipe was leaking, no biggie, just an O-ring, except when i pulled it off transmission fluid poured out of the top of the water pump. So...now what?? Any advice is greatly appreciated
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Good Afternoon, I have an 86 K1500, with a manual transmission, and I want to replace the transmission fluid with synthetic. I purchased Royal Purple 75W90 based on the recommendation from the auto parts employee. He said 75W90 would be fine since I'm shifting to synthetic, even though the manual calls for 80W. The Royal Purple is listed for GL-5 applications. Are there any concerns, in anyone's opinion, with shifting to the 75W90 synthetic? Thanks in advance for your feedback.
