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Showing results for tags 'valve'.
Found 5 results
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SOLD The kit includes our billet aluminum check valves. If you are generating more then 12# of boost, you should opt for our high performance check valve. You will only need one to go on the intake manifold side of the system. The other side will still utilize the standard check valve. The Standard hose is Gates Push-Lok. This is a high quality hoses cut to fit Tahoes, Yukons, etc. You can replace hoses for $10 to get different lengths. https://rxcatchcans.com/ols/products/tracy-lewis-signature-series/v/TLP202
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Got an interesting one for the forum. After the truck (2016 GMC Sierra) has been sitting a while (usually over night or for a few hours) the pedal let's out a nice squeak. On rare occasions I can get it to do it twice in a row, but most of the time the squeak is only for the first press then is gone for all the other presses. Normal daily driving I don't hear it, it's only the first press or when I have to hit my brakes hard (ex, cut off by someone). My local dealer service department (who's treated me well and has good mechanics) looked at it and said they can't repeat it enough to truly diagnose it. Some squeaks are real quick and others last about 2 seconds. The only way I can describe it is like a relief valve letting some air out, but with a squeak. Sometimes I can hold the pedal in place after depressing and the squeak continues to let out. It's not like a metal plunger rubbing on a rubber boot as I depress the pedal, plus I would be able to make the sound every time if that were the case. Below is a video I took on two different occasions, they are looped a couple times. You'll hear what I'm talking about and see that it's gone on the second press. I did have the vacuum pump replaced due to the recall about a year ago, I noticed it after that but the dealership said the pump and vacuum is holding well the entire time, even when it squeaks. They only guess they had was to replace the brake pedal assembly or the brake booster, but admittedly said that would just be throwing parts at it. Just got the truck back today, didn't get charged for the diagnosis since they couldn't figure it out. Now I'm turning to the forum. Any idea what's going on?!? -
Hi I have a 2007 Yukon that only starts ticking when I am parked at idle for 5 to 10 min,,,starts then gets loud. Once I rev the engine or start driving it disappears....Had the whole top of motor redone 3 yrs ago by a dealer.....Broke now and wondering if maybe have someone shut off the afm could possibly stop it being it only happens when I am idling
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Hi I have a 2007 Yukon that only starts ticking when I am parked at idle for 5 to 10 min,,,starts then gets loud. Once I rev the engine or start driving it disappears....Had the whole top of motor redone 3 yrs ago by a dealer.....Broke now and wondering if maybe have someone shut off the afm could possibly stop it being it only happens when I am idling
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Good morning All, I have an 05 Sierra 2500HD, 6.0, 4x4, Automatic, with 170k miles. Back in march I had to replace the engine with an ATK reman. The bottom end was going out. I also replaced a great many peripheral parts at the same time. *Intake Manifold, Evap purge valve solenoid, Purge valve hose. vent valve and solenoid, evap tank, gas cap (all genuine gm parts) I cannot rid myself of code p0443, I feel like I have read 1000 posts on the subject, and nearly all, have not reached any resolution. I need to sell my truck, but with this code ever present, it makes it difficult. the truck starts fine, idles at 600 rpms, but has a decided shudder from 1500 to 2500 rpms. Seems to have lots of power, no extraneous gas smells. no hesitation. Just that stupid code. I just ordered and installed another purge valve solenoid, cleared the code, started it up again, and without hesitation, the cel came on again. My frustration lies in the fact that most all the system is brand new (gm Parts) can anyone help.....Pleeeeaaase...... I personally don't believe the evap systems are a conspiracy to destroy the free world. (sorry)
