How-To: Heated Steering Wheel Install GMT900 Sierra.

[musselman]

Thanks for the response. I wasn't sure if trucks with heated steering wheels from the factory turned on with the remote start. Gm Parts Direct got back to me already and here's what they wrote:

 

"Here is the information requested:

22947767 Steering wheel; ebony (black) in color with heater control module. 2014 Silverado/Sierra. CRUISE CONTROL, LEATHER WRAPPED STEERING WHEEL, STEERING WHEEL ACCESSORY CONTROLS, HEATED STEERING WHEEL SWITCH, CHEVROLET, G M C,

To insure that we supply the correct part number requested, I would like to request the VIN from a vehicle manufactured with the part requested. Once I enter the VIN into the license GM parts catalog, the VIN will be decoded and will display only the parts that are correct for the VIN supplied."

 

I find it strange how they say its for a 2014? The 2014 wheel is completely different.... Should be 07-13. So are they wrong or is the part number wrong? I never thought it would be so hard to get a part number lol. I will order the wheel new from the dealer since i know a few techs but i hate going in and having the parts guy give me the deer in the headlights look when i don't have the part number. Through more research i found out that the 2014 tahoe has the same interior as the upgraded on 07-13 nnbs trucks. The '14 tahoe has a heated steering wheel as standard on all ltz models and most lt models have it as well. Also confirmed this by going through kijiji classifieds.

http://www.chevrolet.com/2014-tahoe-full-size-suv/specs/trims.html

 

Musselman nice truck you got! Buddy of mine has one just like that.

Thanks man, I am really liking this truck.

 

From my research the 22947767 part number is used on the 2013 Chevy Avalanche black diamond edition. It's the one I ordered so I will let you guys know when it arrives.

[Zebrafive]

NO Idea why post #134 is a triple post all in one post. If a moderator can fix it Thank You! and if you fix it, delete this post too.

Edited December 12, 2014 by Zebrafive

[musselman]

Delete

Edited December 12, 2014 by musselman

[09SierraZ71]

Found a dark cashmere on ebay heated without woodgrain #22947769. Its only 169! Brand new. Wish I could find the ebony w/o wood for that price!

Edited December 12, 2014 by 09SierraZ71

[09SierraZ71]

Does the harness negate the need for a ground and power source? Any bcm flash required?

[Zebrafive]

Does the harness negate the need for a ground and power source? Any bcm flash required?

By harness do you mean this pigtail? If so, NO, you still need to hookup the two wires to power and ground. I am trying to source the connector for the junction block to make the harness "plug & play"

 

No reflash required. Steering wheel, correct clock spring, hook up power and ground = ready to enjoy!

[09SierraZ71]

I meant the actual harness of the sir coil (clockspring). Is worth changing or should i just run my own wire. Reason i'm skeptical is because i don't want really cut any wiring and also not wanting to change the resistance by cutting the wires.

thanks

[woody7978]

I have not figured out how to have the heated wheel come on with remote start.

If you leave the heated wheel switch ON when shutting OFF the truck, it's OFF when the truck is restarted.

Constant voltage to the buttons (not sure which wire) MIGHT work IF the 12 volt "heat" wire becomes "hot" upon remote start, AND the wheel heat button was left ON.

I am not sure if constant voltage to the buttons would make other problems, such as shorten button life or battery run down.

 

I can supply a connector for the dash side of the SIR Coil/Clockspring. Check the FOR SALE section.

I am trying to source a connector for the junction box to be able to offer a "plug and play" harness from the SIR Coil to the Junction Box.

 

I have not figured out how to have the heated wheel come on with remote start.

If you leave the heated wheel switch ON when shutting OFF the truck, it's OFF when the truck is restarted.

Constant voltage to the buttons (not sure which wire) MIGHT work IF the 12 volt "heat" wire becomes "hot" upon remote start, AND the wheel heat button was left ON.

I am not sure if constant voltage to the buttons would make other problems, such as shorten button life or battery run down.

 

I can supply a connector for the dash side of the SIR Coil/Clockspring. Check the FOR SALE section.

I am trying to source a connector for the junction box to be able to offer a "plug and play" harness from the SIR Coil to the Junction Box.

 

I have not figured out how to have the heated wheel come on with remote start.

If you leave the heated wheel switch ON when shutting OFF the truck, it's OFF when the truck is restarted.

Constant voltage to the buttons (not sure which wire) MIGHT work IF the 12 volt "heat" wire becomes "hot" upon remote start, AND the wheel heat button was left ON.

I am not sure if constant voltage to the buttons would make other problems, such as shorten button life or battery run down.

 

I can supply a connector for the dash side of the SIR Coil/Clockspring. Check the FOR SALE section.

I am trying to source a connector for the junction box to be able to offer a "plug and play" harness from the SIR Coil to the Junction Box.

Hello everybody

I have just finished this modification. If you connect to a constant on +12 volts and turn the truck off you will have a dead battery in less then 12 hours! Do not ask me how I know! the parasitic draw is several amps your battery will not survive. That being said like someone here said it warms fairly quickly. Better cold hands for a while then cold all over waiting for a jump start

[racedadgrp5]

Anyone done this modification in a 2009 Suburban LTZ 1500 4x4.

Please let me know if I am missing anything and help me with the correct p/n for the coil if you will along with harness.

I have purchased the steering wheel p/n 22947769 and not sure I understand exactly which coil and harness to get. My other question is do I need a a different BCM? What turns the wheels heating element on and off so it doesn't burn out if it connects to chassis ground and 12V,

 

Thank You....CA

[woody7978]

I meant the actual harness of the sir coil (clockspring). Is worth changing or should i just run my own wire. Reason i'm skeptical is because i don't want really cut any wiring and also not wanting to change the resistance by cutting the wires.

thanks

Hello

It is a little confusing, but the clock spring itself has plugs (green) one under the air bag and one which is under the bottom which is routed down the column to connect to +12 and ground this end is the connector that is currently hard to find. you can cut the connecter off and use spade terminals male and female to make your own wire to reach the junction box for power. Or go to an electric supply (radio shack/Fry and get a two wire connecter male female and make your own. That is if what you are asking about is the supply wire. If you are talking about making a harness to convert your clock spring to a heated wheel clock spring I do not think it can be done safely.

[09SierraZ71]

Hello

It is a little confusing, but the clock spring itself has plugs (green) one under the air bag and one which is under the bottom which is routed down the column to connect to +12 and ground this end is the connector that is currently hard to find. you can cut the connecter off and use spade terminals male and female to make your own wire to reach the junction box for power. Or go to an electric supply (radio shack/Fry and get a two wire connecter male female and make your own. That is if what you are asking about is the supply wire. If you are talking about making a harness to convert your clock spring to a heated wheel clock spring I do not think it can be done safely.

Thanks Woody,

 

I am referring to the B+ source. i don't mind the ground wire attachment. So i need to run power and ground then it seems, which terminal from the fuse block could i use, unless there is a slot for the heated steering system already. I would not mess with the clock spring, i'm buying a new one meant for the heated steering wheel when i place the order for the new wheel. I simply was wondering the harness was worth the 72 dollars on gmpartsdirect.

[woody7978]

Thanks Woody,

 

I am referring to the B+ source. i don't mind the ground wire attachment. So i need to run power and ground then it seems, which terminal from the fuse block could i use, unless there is a slot for the heated steering system already. I would not mess with the clock spring, i'm buying a new one meant for the heated steering wheel when i place the order for the new wheel. I simply was wondering the harness was worth the 72 dollars on gmpartsdirect.

Hello

The best B+ connection is in the breaker box on the left side of the driver foot well under a black cover which pops off. there you will find several harness plugs. the first open plug on the left top use the left top thin spade which is ignition controlled hot. This is not the OEM location and I do not know where that is it would be great if someone with a factory setup would chime in and tell us but that probably won't happen because why would they be here

woody

[09SierraZ71]

Just saw something that caught my attention the newer trucks that have Blue/white-ish color on the the steering wheel controls..

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTMyWDgwMA==/z/AaQAAOSwnDxUkGN0/$_57.JPG So may need to order 1 new left side switch for the heater button and re-use the right side since its the same green, unless there's a tiny bulb inside the switch? Can anybody shed some light on this?

 

Green cruise with heater switch: #15824113

Blue/White cruise with heater switch: #15824112

Edited December 17, 2014 by 09SierraZ71

[09SierraZ71]

Anyone done this modification in a 2009 Suburban LTZ 1500 4x4.

Please let me know if I am missing anything and help me with the correct p/n for the coil if you will along with harness.

I have purchased the steering wheel p/n 22947769 and not sure I understand exactly which coil and harness to get. My other question is do I need a a different BCM? What turns the wheels heating element on and off so it doesn't burn out if it connects to chassis ground and 12V,

 

Thank You....CA

The part numbers you are looking for:

 

clockspring coil: 25966964 ($125 gmpartsdirect)

Wheel Harness: 25807858 ($72 gmpartsdirect)

From what i understand you need to pick a terminal from the fuse block that is only "hot" when the key is on the on/run position.

Then its up to you to turn it off when it gets too hot (although im sure theres a heat sensor in there that turns it off when need be). But when you take the key out its off and once the key is reinserted it stays off until you press it again. Hope that helps you.

Ashton

[woody7978]

Anyone done this modification in a 2009 Suburban LTZ 1500 4x4.

Please let me know if I am missing anything and help me with the correct p/n for the coil if you will along with harness.

I have purchased the steering wheel p/n 22947769 and not sure I understand exactly which coil and harness to get. My other question is do I need a a different BCM? What turns the wheels heating element on and off so it doesn't burn out if it connects to chassis ground and 12V,

 

Thank You....CA

09SierraZ71 is correct the heated wheel function is self contained it will heat until warm like a heating pad with a set temperature indefinitely. when the power supply is cut off it shuts down and resets and has to be reactivated at the wheel switch.no need to do anything to the BCM.