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rikoseth

Method To Bleed Brakes- Myth Or Just Stupid?:)

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I'm not sure about ABS but remember you should always start with the shortest brake line first. Then work your way down the line to the longest.

 

Mike, is that for ABS? I would have to dig out my old school work to verify. Otherwise I have been doing it the other way around for non ABS for a long time.

 

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I'm not sure about ABS but remember you should always start with the shortest brake line first. Then work your way down the line to the longest.

 

Mike, is that for ABS? I would have to dig out my old school work to verify. Otherwise I have been doing it the other way around for non ABS for a long time.

 

 

 

 

When I gravity bleed I do them all at the same time. ASE guides are, for most vehicles, furthest from master first closest last. Some vehicles are different, consult manufacturer instructions. Some systems are X split instead of front rear split, in that case furthest first, then the other line on the circuit next. To be honest with you if you bleed till you have clean fluid I don't think it really matters, but for liability purposes, consult manufacturer instructions is the way to go.

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To be honest with you if you bleed till you have clean fluid I don't think it really matters.

 

 

That's what I have always thought.

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Also, keep in mind that brake fluid is anaerobic. Meaning it absorbs moisture. Moisture, along with any other contaminants, is just asking for brake system failure. Theres no cleaning out btake lines. Youll have to replace all the components.

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+1 on the Motive bleeder system. I don't even use any fluid in the bottle; just pump it up to pressurize the system making sure to keep an eye on the fluid level in the m/c. Sure wish they would have had something compact and simple like that 40 years ago. It is especially important with ABS systems to flush the old fluid on a regular basis as brake fluid is hygroscopic (made to take up and retain moisture) and over time it reaches its limit and that's when internal system corrosion begins, and in some cases of heavy brake use, boiling of the fluid as the absorbed moisture has a considerably lower boiling point than uncontaminated fluid. Brake fluid is much cheaper than replacing corroded/malfunctioning ABS units. I know there are many vehicles out there running on their factory fluid, but why take the chance, especially if one frequently tows a trailer. Now if they would only OEM spec stainless brake lines, I'd be ecstatic. But that is a whole other story...

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Not to beat the topic to death, but actually leaving the lid off the master cylinder overnight is detrimental as the fluid will just be absorbing the moisture from the air the whole time. The first thing noted on every brake fluid container is to only use fluid from a sealed container for just that reason. I never could understand the old school pressure bleeders that would sit around the shop with a couple of gallons of fluid in them for who knows how long. Defeats the whole purpose of flushing the system.

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Just ordered a Motive Bleeder. Thanks for the input guys.

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Just to throw this out there, I have owned a lot of 88-98 but this 1999 Silverado I have NBS was crazy I took my time and replaced all the lines and calipers hardware and so on.....

I let too much fuild out and the ABS pump lost all its fulid MAN !!! $200 bucks later only a Tech II scan tool could turn on the ABS pump at the dealer and now I have brakes! I tried everything from Grav. to building my own pressure bleeder nothing! if it has ABS pump and all the fuild came out then thats one thing to think about, OH yeah and make sure the calipers are in the right sides bleeder vavles must be on the top, I copied the way someone else did them on this truck and thats what made it $200 b/c they had to switch them, I felt really dumb not my fault I mean it!:()

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