Jump to content

body questions: loose wiper guard, 3rd door not shutting properly


Recommended Posts

'99 GMC Sierra 1500 (non-HD) SLE (99-06 body style) RWD 5.3L V8

 

 

Rewritten 2012-02-04:

 

 

1. Loose Wiper Cowl: it rattles and does not seal.

 

You know the long, vented, black plastic piece at the base of the windshield wipers? It has grids and some rubber supposedly to keep water from running past the bottom of the windshield. This plastic wiper cowl is in 3 sections. The middle section is very long and seems reasonably secure; however, the rubber seal does not make contact with 1/2 the windshield. Also the two small end sections (at the far left and right sides of the windshield) are loose. They now rattle at 50+ mph.

 

Examination of the cowl mounting clips leads me to believe the cowl warped over time. With the OBS six screws held the cowl tightly against the windshield.Sadly, with the NBS there is no way to tighten it. Only clips at the bottom of the cowl - that is, under the hood - hold the plastic cowl in place. Sure there are two screws at the very ends, but nothing in the NBS mounts actually puts pressure on the cowl to keep it against the windshield. Soon as it warps (from sunlight), the entire cowl must be replaced. This is a faulty design.

 

I have ordered a paintable SS cowl which supposedly replaces the original. Sadly, it was $180 and of course requires time/money to paint.

 

 

2. 3rd Door (extend cab) doesn't shut properly with moderate force.

 

The top latch of the third door only catches partially, if shut with normal force. Looking up through the seal on top of door, 1/4" of sky is visible. To make it shut water-tight, serious pressure has to be kept on the top section of the door while it latches. This feels (and sounds!) like slamming the door.

 

I tried operating the latch manually by pushing it in with my finger. After applying pressure, the latch arm stops moving. With much more pressure, a very loud snapping sound can be heard, and the latch closes all the way. The door handle continues to open the latch correctly. I assume the cable is still connected. My current guess is that the snapping sound is caused by some plastic piece (a clip?) in the assembly which is cracked/damaged.

 

What can I do to fix it? The door hinges are straight and properly greased. I sprayed silicone on all the latches, hinges, and seals. The door shows no signs of looseness or grinding; likewise, the metal catch on the top of the cab is straight and paint shows no sign of unusual wear.

 

Any thoughts?

 

 

3. Glove box door has a similar problem: it won't latch unless pressure is applied to specific point on door.

 

The glove box door will only latch (with moderate pressure) if pressure is applied to a point between the door handle and the center of the door. Otherwise, the door must be slammed. This makes it very hard to operate from the driver's side.

 

The metal catch appears fine. It shows normal wear, just a little paint wearing off. The bar is bent in slightly, but new parts show exactly the same curve. The latch mechanism appears fine: spring looks good, no sign of rust/corrosion/discoloration. Manually operating the latch does not require much force or show any weird jarring/twisting motions.

 

I grabbed a flashlight and checked in and behind door area for any objects that might have fallen between door and dash - nothing.

 

The door appears slightly warped, however the rubber stops on sides of door make good contact. The door does not rattle while driving.

 

Any known fix for this problem? I've heard that replacing the latch requires drilling out six rivets, not a fun job!

 

 

4. Headliner is falling down near edges of cab.

 

It stays up everywhere except the very edges of the cab, near the door openings. After noticing this, I had cleaned mud and dust off the headliner with a carpet vac (wet/dry vac with carpet cleaner), and it was attached very tightly everywhere else. So I assume the glue/clips in the center are in good shape. Only the ends, near the door openings, need to be held up somehow.

 

Are there clips or some other hardware I can get to fix this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone have (good or bad) experiences with installing new headliners?

 

The edges near the door openings are warped so badly that the magnets won't hold the headliner up against the roof. Unfortunately, the door openings don't have any lips or holes for attaching clips or rubber insulation to hold the headliner up. I've no option but to replace the whole headliner backing.

 

I'm thinking about the ABS molded plastic ones, possibly filling the gaps between roof and headliner with some sound-insulating material.

 

The other method is to cut the material and hang it from clips that attach to the roof. Is drilling required?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Re: the rear doors, I found this while searching:

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t593138-rear_doors_close_when_cold

 

Apparently the pins and/or bushings can wear out enough that the door goes loose, which prevents it from making proper contact with the latches.

 

I'll check this out soon and post back.

The url is no longer available, what could I search in order to find the answer?

 

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    246.7k
    Total Topics
    2.6m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    334,667
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    silverbird
    Newest Member
    silverbird
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 374 Guests (See full list)



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.