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Can someone offer me a good outlook on my situation?


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Hey everyone, this is my first post on here and I wanted to start off by saying hi.

 

I recently purchased a 2004 Silverado extended cab Z71 with 115,000 miles. After it was all said and done I ended up financing and owing just about what the truck is worth now. The test drive seemed to be fine and the truck drove and performed about what I figured a 8 year old truck with 115K on the clock would. It was clean and in decent condition. Now after owning the truck for about 3 months it seems like it is falling apart. 2 days after I brought it home the drivers seat and passenger side power window stopped working. After replacing the fuse 4-5 times I finally paid the dealer $250 to find the short under the dash and that's fixed. Now the power steering hose is leaking, all 3 trans cooler lines are leaking, axle sealing is leaking, and passenger side cv boot is torn and all grease is gone.

 

I fixed the "knocking" in the steering shaft with the grease fitting trick in the shaft, however I still get a horrible growl in the steering at low speeds when turning the wheel to the right (the power steering reservoir is full). The truck also has a horrible knocking in the left side of the motor which I figure is a lifter. The truck also has what feels like half the power it should.

 

This is my first GM vehicle and I am not impressed at all. Most of the problems I am chocking up to the previous owner took horrible care of it. Can someone offer me a glimmer of hope that I have a decent truck? I am really considering getting rid of this truck and never owning a GM again. :nonod:

 

I really don't want to start dumping money, effort and time into this truck when I can probably just trade it in and break even. I just need a reliable truck.

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You definitely are gambling when purchasing from private party but it goes the same way with buying from a dealership. Seems like the seller churches the truck.up before you bought it and it held its own until now. The cooler lines issue is common. My truck has it too but the leak is slow so I am not worried atm. Other problems sound like routine maintenance wasn't performed on anything. At 100k, I did a major tune up to include flushing all then old coolant, replacing most hoses and clamps that were worn, spark plugs, tranny fluid and filter, rear end fluid, brake fluid etc. Long list of other minor parts and inspections I did. I plan to keep my truck for a long time so maintenance is critical. Fix your current issues and enjoy that truck. Should last a good while!

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You definitely are gambling when purchasing from private party but it goes the same way with buying from a dealership. Seems like the seller churches the truck.up before you bought it and it held its own until now. The cooler lines issue is common. My truck has it too but the leak is slow so I am not worried atm. Other problems sound like routine maintenance wasn't performed on anything. At 100k, I did a major tune up to include flushing all then old coolant, replacing most hoses and clamps that were worn, spark plugs, tranny fluid and filter, rear end fluid, brake fluid etc. Long list of other minor parts and inspections I did. I plan to keep my truck for a long time so maintenance is critical. Fix your current issues and enjoy that truck. Should last a good while!

 

Thanks for the advice. The funny part about my saga is I did purchase it from a dealership lol. The dealership was a Toyota dealer with a good reputation so I figured they would have done a good job at inspecting the truck before trying to sell it as pre-owned.

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You definitely are gambling when purchasing from private party but it goes the same way with buying from a dealership. Seems like the seller churches the truck.up before you bought it and it held its own until now. The cooler lines issue is common. My truck has it too but the leak is slow so I am not worried atm. Other problems sound like routine maintenance wasn't performed on anything. At 100k, I did a major tune up to include flushing all then old coolant, replacing most hoses and clamps that were worn, spark plugs, tranny fluid and filter, rear end fluid, brake fluid etc. Long list of other minor parts and inspections I did. I plan to keep my truck for a long time so maintenance is critical. Fix your current issues and enjoy that truck. Should last a good while!

 

Thanks for the advice. The funny part about my saga is I did purchase it from a dealership lol. The dealership was a Toyota dealer with a good reputation so I figured they would have done a good job at inspecting the truck before trying to sell it as pre-owned.

to me it sounds like the truck may of sat around a lot. And now that's your putting some miles on it the problems are poping up. All in all it doesn't sound that bad for such an old truck.

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

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I don't understand why people buy vehicles used from another vehicle make dealer? Especially stand alone brand franchises.

 

I've worked at three different dealerships over the years. Techs HATE working on "off-brand" vehicles. I guess mainly because they aren't used to the different problems they find & aren't used to working on them. Or maybe because they have no resources to look up how to fix these "off-brand" vehicles.

 

Which leads me to say, items MIGHT not get repaired at these stand-alone used car dealership lots??? Makes some sense doesn't it??

 

Be VERY cautious buying a GM truck at a Dodge, Toyota, or Ford dealers used car lot. :happysad: Ask the used car manager for a service copy of the vehicles "21 or 110" point check-up. This will show what items were advised to be repaired & what items actually were authorized by HIM to be done.

 

I agree, maintence is everything though. Try changing the power steering fluid out & add a conditioner. Like BG or Lucas??

 

Leaking hoses, that happens- Esp at that mileage.

 

Fix the torn boot. Shouldn't be that hard of a repair.

 

Try Seafoaming the engine & replacing the O2 sensors with GM ones, and clean the mass-airflow sensor & throttle body.

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Welcome.

 

 

When you say this:

 

I really don't want to start dumping money, effort and time into
this truck when I can probably just trade it in and break even.

Then no I can't offer you a good outlook. You're looking at spending probably $,$$$ (4 figures) to repair, unless you can do the all the work yourself.

 

I'd pull the valve covers and check for the Castec head issue.

 

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/148

 

 

Lifters usually tick, don't have a "horrible knock". Look for busted valve springs, valve train parts and such. Has been a reported issue.

 

Pull any stored codes. Check condition of cats

 

Also do as Jon suggested

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TXAB,

your statement is more accurate then my original comment. It is a "ticking" and not a "knocking." I recently watched a video on youtube where someone pulled the valve covers, pulled the rocker arms and push rods. Then sprayed berryman B12 down the pushrod into the lifters to clean them out. I am going to attempt this and hope it helps out.

 

As with everything else I feel confident that I can do most of the work myself, with the exception of the trans cooler lines. The dealership quoted me $650 for all 3 lines. It seems pretty steep, but I just don't think I feel confident enough with the disconnects on the lines. That also seems to be the only "take care of it now" issue going on. Everytime I drive the truck I can smell coolant at the front of the truck so I'm guessing those lines are leaking pretty good :noway: the lines are definitely leaking as they are covered with coolant, however because I just got pointed to the leak by the dealer I don't know how long they have been leaking.

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Your Trans cooler lines are leaking coolant? Dude you are screwed if I read that right

I may be referring to them as the wrong thing. The dealer called them trans cooler lines. They are the hard lines on the passenger side of the radiator. They have metal connections to the radiator that go into a rubber hose after about 2 inches. They are leaking at the connection from metal line to rubber hose.

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It should be trans fluid weeping out of the crimp connectors, common problem for some. Fluid travels in a loop from the trans to the radiator. Coolant stays in the rad. The cost for all 3 trans. cooler replacement lines is under $100. But it takes some effort to replace them due to the routing. I've heard from some, on 4x4 you need to move the front diff to get them in place. Replace PS line. Change fluid and as suggested, try a conditioner also. Can't hurt. If you buy some time, great. You may still need to replace the pump later. It makes the growl even when not moving?

 

The cv shaft is not too bad to do. Be sure and look at the other side. Consider replacing both if needed. I'd replace the seals at the same time as well. Some do, some don't. Check both front wheel bearings at this time too.

 

If you smell coolant, check the WP and gaskets for leakage, again, quite common. Check hose connections for leaks. As stated earlier, I'd pull the covers and check what's inside. If it has the Castech issue, get rid of it.

 

A cheap, quick fix for the weeping trans line is available. I've done it on several vehicles with no repercussions. Some on here don't care for it. You can cut the crimp off the lines with something like a dremel, being careful not to damage the metal tube. Remove the rubber hose and replace with aftermarket transmission fluid hose. Use quality hose clamps and tighten them down. There should be a ridge or ridges on the outside of the metal tube to help hold the hose on. You can use this method on the 2 hoses going to and from the trans. If you wish, the line going from the rad. to the aux. cooler can be replaced with a new assembly.

 

Got any idea how long since the last oil change? Consider taking a sample and having it tested to find out the internal condition of the engine. Costs about $20 - $30.

 

As mentioned, pull codes, if any. Have the cats checked. Clean MAF and throttle body. Take a fuel pressure reading, key on, engine off. No fuel filter to replace on your model, some models (flex fuel) still have filters under the cab. Check the air filter. There was one member that reported poor performance and tracked it down to a plugged air filter. :lol:

 

You've got regular maintenance items to consider. Brakes, fluid changes, belts, hoses etc....

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So I took the driver side valve cover off today to see how bad things looked. what I found was pretty upsetting (atleast to me). I attached pictures. Can you tell me what you think and if you think its workable?

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I'm sorry about your bad luck signal 20. I'm not a mechanic so I won't offer you advice that I'm not qualified to give you. I will however offer this. You bought an almost ten year old truck with six figures on the odometer that was apparently maintained questionably at best, and you bought it from a Toyota dealership. I would hesitate to knock GM or it's products, or blame them, because of your unfortunate situation. It would seem that these are maintenance(or lack thereof) issues and not all of them are directly related to GM. Those that are most likely are due to age and miles, and brought on prematurely by the previous owner's neglect. If it were me I would be more upset with the Toyota dealership that stuck you with this predicament. If you think that you can trade it in and break even, that may be something to consider. I know what brand I'd go with, as I have for my last three trucks two cars and an SUV. I also know which dealership I wouldn't go to. The one that put you in this position, regardless of the brand. If you decide to go the trade in route, and you'll still consider GM, the 2014's will hit soon and if they're a hit you can expect deep discounts on the 2013 models.

Good luck, I hope this works out in your favor whatever you decide to do. No matter what you do or what brand you end up with, keep us informed. We are always interested in other brands and their owner's feelings about their new rides.

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