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plunk77

2014+ Suspension Lifts

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You will have to cut the front bumper a bit on a gmc depending on wheel width and also the wheel well arches. But it will clear 37s with 9 inch wide wheels and possibly 10 wides with minor cutting

Ya I may do it and go with 37s on factory 20s I think 35s and 6 is 1. Crazy coming from a Ford F-150 & then dodge dually 2. Over done. No one runs narrow'ish 37s anymore.

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Ya I may do it and go with 37s on factory 20s I think 35s and 6 is 1. Crazy coming from a Ford F-150 & then dodge dually 2. Over done. No one runs narrow'ish 37s anymore.

Im pretty sure you have to get spacers for the stock wheels cause of the offset and backspacing on them brother.

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Well according to the track width movement at 9" of lift it should be poked out over stock 3/4"-1" so if anything would be needed I could probably throw a 1/4" spacer up front and a 1.25" in back and be dead even track to track and clear everything suspension wise, UCA, Sway bar, and Tie Rod end but that's just an on paper discussion. How's it ride at 9" ? I don't want a body lift because ill be doing the Iron cross full replacement front bumper and a winch and extension brackets plus replacement bumpers don't mix especially when you start winching on them.

id like to keep factory wheels for one reason and one reason only. Save Money! plus the look of a Big Factory'ish truck looks sick to me sleeper status....+9".....

I also don't want the SS kit I want the silver components and less flash. Not a big fan of big and flashy definitely with the way I use my truck just like the Big part !! could you post some pics of driver and passenger side CV and balljoint angles and also the height to the top of the tailgate with it in the down(open) position?

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Just picked up from the dealership 2016 Midnight Edition. I had the dealer put on a level kit and 33's with the deal. I have had it only 24hrs and I am ready to go higher....lol

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Edited by missouri_sooner
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Ya I may do it and go with 37s on factory 20s I think 35s and 6 is 1. Crazy coming from a Ford F-150 & then dodge dually 2. Over done. No one runs narrow'ish 37s anymore.

 

 

Im pretty sure you have to get spacers for the stock wheels cause of the offset and backspacing on them brother.

 

Na, You can run factory 20's with the lift no problem. No spacer needed to clear anything. You'll want a spacer for the back to even the track out, but its not a necessity.

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Na, You can run factory 20's with the lift no problem. No spacer needed to clear anything. You'll want a spacer for the back to even the track out, but its not a necessity.

McGaughys told me at 9 inches it will only clear a 0- -22 offset with a 9 to 10 inch wide wheel and stock wheels require spacers on 37s. Stock wheels are 9 inch wide with I believe +27 offset.

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McGaughys told me at 9 inches it will only clear a 0- -22 offset with a 9 to 10 inch wide wheel and stock wheels require spacers on 37s. Stock wheels are 9 inch wide with I believe +27 offset.

 

 

How's the ride?

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Well according to the track width movement at 9" of lift it should be poked out over stock 3/4"-1" so if anything would be needed I could probably throw a 1/4" spacer up front and a 1.25" in back and be dead even track to track and clear everything suspension wise, UCA, Sway bar, and Tie Rod end but that's just an on paper discussion. How's it ride at 9" ? I don't want a body lift because ill be doing the Iron cross full replacement front bumper and a winch and extension brackets plus replacement bumpers don't mix especially when you start winching on them.

id like to keep factory wheels for one reason and one reason only. Save Money! plus the look of a Big Factory'ish truck looks sick to me sleeper status....+9".....

I also don't want the SS kit I want the silver components and less flash. Not a big fan of big and flashy definitely with the way I use my truck just like the Big part !! could you post some pics of driver and passenger side CV and balljoint angles and also the height to the top of the tailgate with it in the down(open) position?

It's been raining everyday here and I'm working nights right now so I'll try posting a few pics as soon as I get some free time and decent weather. The ride is really close to stock. Only thing I notice is a slight steering wheel shimmy from the 37s but nothing bad. Isn't the silver kit gonna be more flash cause the frame and bottom of the truck is black? Silver is gonna "POP" more haha. Just get the economy flat black kit to save money and look the same as the frame and bottom of the truck. The top of the tailgate is 45" from the ground open.

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Finished appearance I believe and some stainless dress up on the "ss"

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What is the difference between the economy and ss version. ... they both say 7 to 9 inch

 

Economy- Adjustable 7-9" front struts, Simpler Front Drop Cross Members, Round Kicker braces, 6"Rear Lift blocks , No Diff Skid Plate & No Tie Braces between crossmembers

 

Standard- Adjustable 7-9" front struts, Traditional Front Drop Cross Members, Round Tubular Kicker Braces, 6" Lift Blocks

 

Black SS- Adjustable 7-9" front struts, Traditional Front Drop Cross Members W/ Stainless Steel Accents & Hardware, Box Fabricated Kicker Braces, 6" Lift Blocks

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Has anyone done the 2.5" lift and put bigger rubber on the factory 18s?

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I did the RV 2 inch leveling kit, kept my stock 18's and went with a 275/70/18 Nitto Trail Grappler MT. Inflated they measure out at 33.62 high and 11.10 wide. I have no issues at all. No rubbing whatsoever. Even made my truck flex a good bit while using it for hunting and no issues whatsoever. My truck is a 2015 Z71 Double Cab. Gonna add the 1.5 inch body lift by Zone just to get a little more room though.

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Before and after of 6" BDS lift with Toyo RT 35x12.50r20 tires with stock 20x9 wheels. I used the block lift option in the rear with no leafs or spacers. There is no rubbing or trimming required. I also replaced the stock chrome side step with the AMP power steps. I'll post more pictures when I take it out for some light break in off road! There is a slight rake to the truck (rear is an inch lower than the front when measuring center of wheel to fender. I might do an add a leaf to make it level; especially since I tow.

 

 

 

 

 

Great job Nate!!

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