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MotoMedic

HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

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i tried the mainline fuse, must be the relay...


i tried the mainline fuse, must be the relay...

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25watt 5000k hid from HID guy in the fog lights Installed 5000k 55w HIDs from the retrofit source in the stock headlight projectors. It's better than the stock halogen bulbs but still not quite the amount of light that I want. Having a whole windshield tinted 30% doesn't help either. The hid kit and the wire harness from the retrofit source is very good quality compared to the Chinese kits from VVME.com I used in my 2007 NNBS Sierra. I didn't have to cut or tap into any wires and all the adaptors/connectors all connected perfectly. I have had them installed for 3 days now and overall I am happy with the kit. The only problem Im having is when the HIDs are on and I'm in the truck there is a lot of static noise coming from the speakers even when the volume is off. The FM radio also has problems picking up stations and staying connected to that station. When I take it out of park and into drive the static noise try's to go away but not all the way.

Anyone else having these problems?

Also I did a little extra and the diode mod to make the fog lights come on automatically and to make the cargo lights come on when put in reverse.

All these pictures were take from outside my truck

Low beams only: e5a1472bb608518cf214047e0f6dc493.jpg

Lows with fogs:7d47be87922e885536b46b36711135a0.jpg

Highs beams only: 40bd1c09476062bb3818c39d2397f4ed.jpg

6ca476a5b12b70346da0e2e53c98657a.jpg2643b1e1b0d0bbdb6fc839f553e2edd7.jpgee7f86cdd875113a98d3a8019f13fa4e.jpg

 

 

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New to the forum. I have been reading the topic for some time. I am having a terrible time trying to get the dust cover back on the housing. everything is still stock just opened to see the difficulty to change the bulbs out. but now i cant get the cover back on. is there a easy way to get the grill out to pull the head lights out to get a easier access to the aliment. with out have to remove the painted top part of the bumper. thanks for the help


New to the forum. I have been reading the topic for some time. I am having a terrible time trying to get the dust cover back on the housing. everything is still stock just opened to see the difficulty to change the bulbs out. but now i cant get the cover back on. is there a easy way to get the grill out to pull the head lights out to get a easier access to the aliment. with out have to remove the painted top part of the bumper. thanks for the help

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This projector called Fx-R stand for Infiniti Fx 35/45 HID projector the R stand for Revised from The Retrofit Source .

They reproduce the projectors with clear lense and have sharper cutoff"

These projectors disperse better light output and farther than any Factory Equipped Projector HID let alone Halogen projector...

This is a sample pic of how far the cutoff travel:

alley_zps9fcd53ac.jpg

New to the forum. I have been reading the topic for some time. I am having a terrible time trying to get the dust cover back on the housing. everything is still stock just opened to see the difficulty to change the bulbs out. but now i cant get the cover back on. is there a easy way to get the grill out to pull the head lights out to get a easier access to the aliment. with out have to remove the painted top part of the bumper. thanks for the help

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Hello, I just installed my Morimoto HID 35w, with the xb bulbs H11 kit, and I am wondering if this is normal?

I just have everything sitting on the rad cover while testing, and when I hit unlock on my fob, both ballasts buzz, but the buzz fades after about 5 seconds. Is that them just warming up, or should that not happen at all?

 

Also, I have the capacitor link, not the error eliminator.

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25watt 5000k hid from HID guy in the fog lights Installed 5000k 55w HIDs from the retrofit source in the stock headlight projectors. It's better than the stock halogen bulbs but still not quite the amount of light that I want. Having a whole windshield tinted 30% doesn't help either. The hid kit and the wire harness from the retrofit source is very good quality compared to the Chinese kits from VVME.com I used in my 2007 NNBS Sierra. I didn't have to cut or tap into any wires and all the adaptors/connectors all connected perfectly. I have had them installed for 3 days now and overall I am happy with the kit. The only problem Im having is when the HIDs are on and I'm in the truck there is a lot of static noise coming from the speakers even when the volume is off. The FM radio also has problems picking up stations and staying connected to that station. When I take it out of park and into drive the static noise try's to go away but not all the way.

Anyone else having these problems?

Also I did a little extra and the diode mod to make the fog lights come on automatically and to make the cargo lights come on when put in reverse.

All these pictures were take from outside my truck

Low beams only: e5a1472bb608518cf214047e0f6dc493.jpg

Lows with fogs:7d47be87922e885536b46b36711135a0.jpg

Highs beams only: 40bd1c09476062bb3818c39d2397f4ed.jpg

6ca476a5b12b70346da0e2e53c98657a.jpg2643b1e1b0d0bbdb6fc839f553e2edd7.jpgee7f86cdd875113a98d3a8019f13fa4e.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

I like the cargo light idea, how did you do that?

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I like the cargo light idea, how did you do that?

2cf7e69bbcdedf18a846970ed9ef1878.jpg

This is my set up. I have a 2014 Sierra, I don't know if the pins are different for the Silverados. Check out the thread that talks about them and make sure you connect your diode in the right direction

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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2cf7e69bbcdedf18a846970ed9ef1878.jpg

This is my set up. I have a 2014 Sierra, I don't know if the pins are different for the Silverados. Check out the thread that talks about them and make sure you connect your diode in the right direction

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

10-22 diode is if you want the fogs on with the running lights. Like the picture says they can't be turned off.

 

10-18 diode will give you fogs on when the high beams are activated but will also give you the option to turn them on and off with the OEM fog switch.

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Has anyone managed to retrofit the standard 2014 headlights with an HID Conversion Kit? If so, do you happen to have any pictures on how they look?

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Well I have an update here,

I did finally pull the trigger and got the TRS kit for my 2104 SLE Sierra. 35w ballasts and 4300k lamps with the capacitor link and relay harness. All in all the install went well took me about 2 hours. I am very happy with the improvement. It is not perfect like a couple guys that have done the more in depth projector mod as well, but at least it is driveable at night now. I have a good light pattern and did not have to change any aiming from the factory settings.

 

I do however have what seems to be the common radio interference, and it drives me nuts. i do not have satellite and won't pay the extra for it. There has got to be a way to fix this. I have installed the ferrite cores on the power out wires from the ballast and it did nothing. i also unplugged power each ballast seperatley to see it it was one or the the other ( they both have the same effect) on the radio. I have followed this post since June when i got my truck and have ready most of it multiple times. I am trying some of the many suggestions that some people have tried, but if anyone has a sure fire thing that worked with them on this issue i would appreciate the update. If i figure anything out i will be certain to post up and update.

 

Regard an Thank you in advaance,

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Has anyone managed to retrofit the standard 2014 headlights with an HID Conversion Kit? If so, do you happen to have any pictures on how they look?

 

When you say the standard headlights, do you mean the reflector housings? If so then please do not put and HID in you low bean reflector because it makes it a high beam/flood light and is extremely blinding. If you plan to keep your reflectors then I highly recommend you using a high powered LED headlight bulb. If you really want HIDs then I highly recommend and insist you first put in projectors.

 

HIDs in reflectors are great for the driver with them but absolutely suck for everyone else.

 

Just my $.02

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When you say the standard headlights, do you mean the reflector housings? If so then please do not put and HID in you low bean reflector because it makes it a high beam/flood light and is extremely blinding. If you plan to keep your reflectors then I highly recommend you using a high powered LED headlight bulb. If you really want HIDs then I highly recommend and insist you first put in projectors.

 

HIDs in reflectors are great for the driver with them but absolutely suck for everyone else.

 

Just my $.02

I had read that as well, and was looking to do something like the attached link, but was wondering what it would look like in the standard reflector housing. Just curious at this point. Not sure I'm even going to do it.

 

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/bi-xenon-fx-r-stage-iii-kit.html#.VEka1vnF8k0

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Hello, I just installed my Morimoto HID 35w, with the xb bulbs H11 kit, and I am wondering if this is normal?

I just have everything sitting on the rad cover while testing, and when I hit unlock on my fob, both ballasts buzz, but the buzz fades after about 5 seconds. Is that them just warming up, or should that not happen at all?

 

Also, I have the capacitor link, not the error eliminator.

 

I have the same kit installed. You used the correct bulbs otherwise you would have 2 shadows on the ground from the wires that run along the bulbs.

My ballasts buzz also, not sure if its normal? But it does go away within a few seconds of them being on.

Overall I think the headlights are a million times better although a retrofit would be the proper way to go.

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Hello, I just installed my Morimoto HID 35w, with the xb bulbs H11 kit, and I am wondering if this is normal?

I just have everything sitting on the rad cover while testing, and when I hit unlock on my fob, both ballasts buzz, but the buzz fades after about 5 seconds. Is that them just warming up, or should that not happen at all?

 

Also, I have the capacitor link, not the error eliminator.

 

 

 

I have the same kit installed. You used the correct bulbs otherwise you would have 2 shadows on the ground from the wires that run along the bulbs.

My ballasts buzz also, not sure if its normal? But it does go away within a few seconds of them being on.

Overall I think the headlights are a million times better although a retrofit would be the proper way to go.

 

For those of you with buzzing ballasts; Double check your ground integrity and your wiring polarity. Because load is highest on bulb start up, any resistance in your ground circuit can cause those issues. Also, some of these systems will function with improper polarity at the ballast input from the vehicle harness. However, the relays will buzz due to current flowing the wrong direction through the relay. Just a couple things to check.

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