Jump to content
  • Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!

    In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience. 

Replace rusty frame on 2002 Sierra?


Recommended Posts

I purchased a 2002 SLE Sierra, 27K miles, stepside from the original owner just outside of Boston, Ma.....I live just north of Dallas, Tx......so I was expecting some rust on the vehicle. And sure enough when it arrived, so did the rust. The rust appears to be only on the frame, differential, suspension, etc. and my preference would be to

purchase a rust free frame locally, and have the frames switched out.

 

I need opinions/recommendations on: 1) how big a deal is it to swap out the frames, and 2) does anyone

know of an individual or shop that you could recommend in a 500 mile radius of Dallas to do the swap?

 

Thanks in advance for any and all help!!!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unless there is rot through the frame I think you're wasting your time. All trucks in the north have rust on the frame, axles, suspension and so on after a few years. Nothing to worry about. Especially since its now in a area where it'll likely never see salt or snow again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

out of curiosity why would you purchase a truck from up north when you live in texas? usually people from the north go down there to buy older rust free vehicles.

 

thats gonna be an expensive job.. probably worth almost the truck in cost. get some black paint and sandpaper and some beer and have fun

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

KMGZ400.......probably not my best decision! However I like the 99-02 step sides, especially low mileage ones and they are getting harder and harder to locate. Think I stick with the southern states from now on (lesson learned).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...
16 hours ago, Justin08 said:

I have a 2008 1500  chevy crew cab with a 5foot 8 bed I am wanting to place the body cab and core support onto a 2003 2500 hd frame with a 6.6 diesel I am wondering if anyone can tell me it this is an easy process or more complicated then it's worth. Thank you all 

Sounds like a lot of work. Prolly better off building a frame that matches the old frame but only stronger. But the 08 frame was pretty strong for what it was.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Content

    • By stevenv76
      I have a 2007 1500 crew cab classic that I've done more restoration and customization to than I really would like to admit especially with guys that truely understand these trucks.  I went way to far because I needed a truck to haul more than mine should have done and refused to get rid of it.
        All that being said, my frame is rusted to the point that repairs are no longer going to cut it.  I've replaced 1 cross member, boxed in the back half with 10 gauge steel, added braces but now the cross member above back tank strap is rusted off drivers side as well as the large one under rear of the cab and it's trying to fold on me.  I've replaced all bushings on control arms, tierod holes modified to accept hd tierods, new CV axles, front diff gas new outter bearings and seals, new ujoints in front and rear shafts with the rear being a steel shaft that is rebalanced.  freshly build transfer case with pump guard, transmission has an upgraded trailblazer 2400 Stall converter so about 2700 in the heavier truck, input shaft for a 4l65e, redline wide bands, Corvette servo, 9 plate clutches and hd bearings.  the rear diff is a Yukon duragrip, swapped from 3.42 to 3.73, 4 wheel disk with drilled and slotted, gutted the cats with a 3" stainless mbrp  installers choice cat back single exhaust, ho premium tune. I also installed a 5000lb load/lift airbag system with pump and tank behind the rear seat and guage/controller in the dash.  body is completely redone after being tore down to the driveline and cab bring only thing left on the frame so I was already half way there 3 years ago. 
        The big question is what year frames can I use frame wise.  what will be the cheapest option in everyone's opinion?  living in northern Michigan, finding a used one local is kinda dumb in my opinion because you're going to be blasting a ton of rust off at 5he least so why go through the work of swapping with another. one that is already half way gone.  will either be driving to get one or having shipped.  somewhere between me and Arkansas would be best as I have a friend that makes that trip several times a year.  of course money is tight especially with this hog costing me 51¢ a mile in just fuel the last couple weeks.  I'm seriously leaning towards wanting to do a swap with a frame that has the harness attached still.  I'm having electrical issues from hell to boot.  gas gauge hasn't worked since 2018 when I got it and I've tried everything shy of ecm(I did try bcm and tcm), I've got a bad wire somewhere in harness for bank one and also to the tps.  I play with those. wiring harnesses if it starts to run bad and it smooths right out but have no clue which wire is to be the culprit and pinpoint the break inside the sheathing.  the biggest ****** there is 07 classic is a complete Frankenstein from the factory.  the engine is flex fuel capable but no active fuel management which all the fuel components are the same as 08.  the oil filter is ordered by 08 to make sure I get the right one.  suspension parts I just say 06 on.  half the all cab wiring is ob's so I don't know how this all plays out harness wise.
        I parked it under a big tree Thursday that had a ton of very large dead libs during a severe windstorm and nothing but a nice live tree did fall right where I had it parked prior and no I can't make this ****** up.  I'm over insured and was hoping for a little help with my decision on this thing.  
        sorry for the rambling guys, just wanted all factors to be known when advise given 
    • By BrizzoDaIzzo
      2019 Silverado WT double cab, 4 wheel drive. 10,000 miles. 
       
       

       
      well, what a crappy week.  Got rear ended by a vehicle while I was sitting at a red light. 35-40mph impact to my rear hitch and bumper.
       
      Totally not my fault, the entire wreck was captured on my dash cam, and all costs listed below are being paid by the other person’s insurance company.
       
      And yes, I could see the guy typing on his cell phone with my rear dashcam moments before he slammed into me at full speed. Me and my 10-year-old daughter were in the truck. And yes, we’re both medically fine
       
      so I got two estimates today from two different auto body repair companies. 

      Damages… (wait for it)
      Tailgate has to be replaced, right and left rear bed quarter panels have to be repaired, new bumper, new hitch, and the worst part… when the hitch went forward it sheared the holes in the frame rails where it attaches with bolts to the frame. Basically the 3/4” holes in the frame rail that the hitch bolts go through, became 3 inch holes after being stretched and torn from the impact. Both auto body shops said the entire frame has to be replaced with another OEM frame. They said that they normally could put it on a frame straightener and straighten the frame out, but the shearing in the middle could not be repaired to a point that they could guarantee that the tow rating would remain the same as the engineers at GM designed this frame for. Also, I asked about sectional frame repair. They both told me that GM does not authorize sectional frame repair on these trucks Therefore, a complete new frame is needed.
       
      The estimate average between the two body shops was around $12,000. Both shops said it would probably be in the shop for at least two months. The cost of two months rental for a full-size equivalent pick up truck is $99 a day. About $6000 bucks total. (could be more if not finished on time.)
       
      diminished value… 
       
      Online calculators give a total diminished  value estimate around $3000 due to the loss of trade-in value because of the now marred Carfax wreck history.  (i’ll have to probably beg, plead, and pray to Jesus, to get that money out of the car insurance company. I’ve done it before in past wrecks, but I’ve also been told to,  “kick rocks“ before.) and yes before anyone says it, I know I could “lawyer up” to get that money. But I really want to try to do this the right way first. There’s too much unknown of what will come next. Not saying I’m against lawyering up, but I’d really rather not. 
       
      basically it’s a $21,000 minimum cost to the guy’s insurance company to repair this (when you add up everything mentioned above). keep in mind, my truck only has a actual wholesale value of around $28-$30,000.

      is it totaled???
       
      Per my state law, if damages exceed 75% of wholesale value, the vehicle is a total loss. However, I don’t know if they are calculating the rental fees, and the diminished value cost in that math. Maybe it’s just the actual body shop work/parts cost. I’m not sure. 
       
       I would imagine that they would include The total cost to the insurance company, since the Insurance company would not have to pay this if they just totaled the vehicle outright. 
       
      so I find out in the next couple days what the insurance company is going to decide to do. I really hope they total it and I’ll tell you why…
       
      We all know that this truck was built in the GM assembly plant, to exact torque specs, clearances, etc. And a lot of that work was done by robots, calibrated tools, etc. I am sure “Billy Bob“ the autobody mechanic is not going to be as precise. (No offense to Billy Bob)
       
      If the vehicle is not totaled, and it is completely disassembled and reassembled by auto body mechanics,  I will be selling it the day I get it back repaired. I refuse to drive around a “science experiment“. I feel like it will just be problem after problem from that point on. Forgive me if I’m being dramatic, but I really don’t even wanna take the chance. And God only knows how the hell that would affect my original factory warranty. I can see Chevrolet refusing to do anything with it from that point on. I’ll basically have to be going back to the body shop for any further problems. Then the body shop will blame Chevrolet, and vice versa. What a nightmare. 
       
      and forgive me for calling the autobody mechanic “Billy Bob“. I have a lot of respect for these guys, and it’s truly an art that takes absolute talent to do. But I think we all know that I’m not wrong in assuming that this truck will not be built back to the same perfection that it came out of the GM plant with. 
       
      I appreciate any thoughts or insights anyone on here might have. And just a reminder, any solid impact to your hitch will absolutely destroy your entire frame. The guy who hit me was only going about 35 to 40 mph. 
       
      not sure what’s gonna happen from this point on, but I will be sure to update this post in the next few days
       
      If you are a religious type, any prayers are appreciated.  👍🏻
    • By KDP85
      Hey All! New to the site and new Chevrolet owner. I have a 17' Silverado in the Scar'e blue (or deep ocean metallic)
      Anyway its new to me but only has 30000kms (18700 miles)  on it and I seem to notice the paint is weak!
      I have a ton of scratches on the rockers where the pervious owner must of dragged his feet to get it and even on my box right after the mud guard where its rocker guarded, i;ve noticed chips.
      Now its cold here in northern Ontario, but I bought a paint pen and spring is around the corner
      anyways! Do any of you have this issue of weak paint? and if so do any of you know about the strength of the primer (like will it take a while to rust?)
       
      Thanks !!!
    • By Like-A-Rock-365
      This post was about preventing rust on fenders. I did not get much response so will be reposting in another thread.
       
       
       
       
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    241.3k
    Total Topics
    1.4m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    304,514
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Seif Khene
    Newest Member
    Seif Khene
    Joined


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.