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2014+ Leveling Kits


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Worked on my dads truck this weekend, here it is completed:

2016 Silverado LTZ Z71 (Cast Steel control arms)

2” Rough Country leveling kit 

2” Lift block and U bolts out back

295/55r20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

Factory Snowflake wheels

Bora 1.25” spacers all around

 

I need to clean it up and get better pictures.

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Edited by pewterliftedz
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On 8/6/2019 at 9:34 PM, pewterliftedz said:

Worked on my dads truck this weekend, here it is completed:

2016 Silverado LTZ Z71 (Cast Steel control arms)

2” Rough Country leveling kit 

2” Lift block and U bolts out back

295/55r20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

Factory Snowflake wheels

Bora 1.25” spacers all around

 

I need to clean it up and get better pictures.

 

 

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IMG_0614.JPG

Well done ! I love the wheel spacers , did you have to do any cutting ?

 

Do you  have any rubbing ? 

 

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On 7/31/2019 at 11:38 AM, STRMTRPR said:

.. just for anyone concerned about mileage impact from leveling with oem tires..I have put around 500km since level with zero negative impact to my fuel mileage.

 

 

 

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Hmm, what kind of driving is that? 2 inches higher in the air will impact highway mpg. I did a test with and without the air dam at 75 mph over a 30 mile loop and lost 1.3 mpg. Even having the air dam on more air is hitting the axle, control arms and anything else hanging lower now being higher 2 inches in front. I can see mostly city not having an impact but not highway. 

 

Tyler

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9 hours ago, amxguy1970 said:

Hmm, what kind of driving is that? 2 inches higher in the air will impact highway mpg. I did a test with and without the air dam at 75 mph over a 30 mile loop and lost 1.3 mpg. Even having the air dam on more air is hitting the axle, control arms and anything else hanging lower now being higher 2 inches in front. I can see mostly city not having an impact but not highway. 

 

Tyler

75% of my daily driving is 110-130kph (or around 70-80 mph).. to date I've put around 4000 km on truck since installing the struts

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Hmm, what kind of driving is that? 2 inches higher in the air will impact highway mpg. I did a test with and without the air dam at 75 mph over a 30 mile loop and lost 1.3 mpg. Even having the air dam on more air is hitting the axle, control arms and anything else hanging lower now being higher 2 inches in front. I can see mostly city not having an impact but not highway. 
 
Tyler

You generally ALLWAYS see mpg loss on all leveled truck due to the change of wheel and tires usually because of being wider or heavier and not totally due to a 2” height difference


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On 8/8/2019 at 8:55 AM, BugzzyZ71 said:

Well done ! I love the wheel spacers , did you have to do any cutting ?

 

Do you  have any rubbing ? 

 

On the passenger side while in reverse, we had some light rubbing on the little rear corner plastic.  I just pulled it off and trimmed it down where it was rubbing, and its all good now.  It's the perfect stance IMO.

 

A huge plus is that before the spacers, the 295 tires were rubbing on the sway bar at full lock in both directions.  The Bora spacers completely took care of that, and now 0 rubbing issues.

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Edited by pewterliftedz
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.. the 1.25" rear lift kit  I ordered for the truck came today.. went with a company that I thought had a rep for quality - Skyjacker - only to be disappointed when the lift block kit arrived to find a short block that they wanted to be stacked underneath the oem block.. what a load of garbage!.. seems I just wasted my money with this company.. not looking to spit a block and ruin my truck.. especially when towing.
  Can someone please recommend a one piece small lift block of good quality..ie. iron with pinion angle correction?
Motofab. Made in USA all quality materials

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Going to install a 2” level in my 2016 Double-Cab 4x4 Z71 to then add 285/65/18 or 275/70/18 tires. 

 

Looking at both the upper and lower spacers, what is the conscience on which is the better option? The upper coil spacer or the lower strut mount spacer? 

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I’ve referenced this thread a lot over the years for multiple trucks so thought I’d come back and give something back when I had the chance:

 

I had Bilstein 5100s at highest setting and ReadyLift rear +1”s installed 2 years ago by GM dealer. Angles seem fine. There was a point early on where I thought I was feeling some new slight vibrations, but I tend to be overly paranoid about stuff and all has been totally good for about 20,000.

 

Finally pulled the trigger this weekend on Duratrac 275/60R20s. They fill up the wheel wells a LITTLE more than I anticipated, but fortunately I like the bigger tire look over the lifted/high clearance look anyway. 

 

No signs at all of rubbing after first 100mi. I also have gatorbacks as you can see from the pic, and those eat up some space as well. We’ll see if it’s completely rub-free after a round of towing or two-tracking. If so, zip-ties should take care of it. 

 

 

 

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Added new tires to mine yesterday.  Was running the 275/65/20 Michelins that came off our farm truck when we bought it.  Ran them into the ground and was looking for an AT.  Decided on Ironman All Country AT.. $527 delivered to my tire guy, and $30 to mount and balance the 4.  So, $557 total and they ride like a dream.  Seen nothing but great reviews on them, so we will see how they work for me! 

 

rsALG1y.jpg

 

Truck has a 2.5" level, 275/65/20 Ironman AT tires, and AMP steps.  Painting the back bumper and wrapping the front one to match, next.

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On 8/25/2019 at 9:45 AM, djriv11 said:

I’ve referenced this thread a lot over the years for multiple trucks so thought I’d come back and give something back when I had the chance:

 

I had Bilstein 5100s at highest setting and ReadyLift rear +1”s installed 2 years ago by GM dealer. Angles seem fine. There was a point early on where I thought I was feeling some new slight vibrations, but I tend to be overly paranoid about stuff and all has been totally good for about 20,000.

 

Finally pulled the trigger this weekend on Duratrac 275/60R20s. They fill up the wheel wells a LITTLE more than I anticipated, but fortunately I like the bigger tire look over the lifted/high clearance look anyway. 

 

No signs at all of rubbing after first 100mi. I also have gatorbacks as you can see from the pic, and those eat up some space as well. We’ll see if it’s completely rub-free after a round of towing or two-tracking. If so, zip-ties should take care of it. 

 

 

 

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Well, I spoke too soon.  Poked my head under there after lunch today and spotted UCA rub marks on the one side I could see without laying down.  I'll have to crank it to full lock and get all the way under there tonight to see how bad they're hitting...

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10 hours ago, djriv11 said:

Well, I spoke too soon.  Poked my head under there after lunch today and spotted UCA rub marks on the one side I could see without laying down.  I'll have to crank it to full lock and get all the way under there tonight to see how bad they're hitting...

if its not a major issue add small spacer imo. i went w the lift vs level to get the wider rim tire look i wanted.  if its only rubbing a bit on full turn?? thats minimal and youll probably work around it knowing its there. just my 2 pennies worth

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.. update on my rear block lift.. I put my OEM block back in the rear today and the truck is back to level vs the rake I need in the rear for towing. I had pulled the trigger on another solid 1"lift block (2.25"block) from Readylift after searching YouTube after the crappy Skyjacker block I bought initially - problem - the block has a taper cut in it which in turn knocked out my pinion angle causing vibration. My truck rides BUTTER SMOOTH with the Eibach suspension and I won't accept any driveline vibration. This is strike 2 on the lift blocks now and honestly I don't really want to roll the dice on yet another vendor with sub par blocks. I think I'll just wait until next spring and install a set of Firestone air bags for towing and leave the truck leveled.

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