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Supplier Discount Code - do I even bother with haggling?


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I do quite a bit of work for a retired upper level GM employee. He got me a code that he said was a friends/family code. I read a thread in 2007 that said it was the same as the supplier discount, anybody know?

 

Anyways, is it off of the original MSRP, a percentage of the end amount, or what?

 

Looking at Denali or High Country. Dealers both already have me down to about 50 off of a 55 MSRP. They don't know about code.

 

Any ideas how this code works? I can't find much newer info on it, everything is 3+ years old I found.

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Yes, it is the supplier discount. I am eligible through my employer and can also get it for friends/family. Go to www.gmsupplierdiscount.com. You can build vehicles and search vehicles currently on lots and see exactly what the GM supplier pricing is. You should be able to find and price the exact vehicles the dealers are already quoting you on.

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Yes, it is the supplier discount. I am eligible through my employer and can also get it for friends/family. Go to www.gmsupplierdiscount.com. You can build vehicles and search vehicles currently on lots and see exactly what the GM supplier pricing is. You should be able to find and price the exact vehicles the dealers are already quoting you on.

 

Yeah, I have seen that but I wasn't 100% sure it was supplier since the code says "employee friends"

 

So that price is the set price (excluding rebates)

 

I wasn't sure if the dealer takes 3k off of MSRP, I use rebates, and the code if it takes it down more.

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In order to use the supplier pricing, you are "suppose" to tell the dealer before you start negotiating. On the vehicle invoice, there are several prices: MSRP, supplier price, employee price. The dealer has to show you the invoice and the price you will be starting at before rebates. You cannot use the regular GM credit card points when you use supplier pricing. GM has a GM Family credit card that earn points that can be used with supplier pricing. (only earns 1% but has no limit).

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I too got the supplier price through my company, however the dealer must give that price to you if you go that route. As was said before, it's the supplier pricing minus any rebates that you qualify for. You CAN NOT negotiate down from this. The dealers aren't allowed.

 

When I bought my truck, I actually got a lower price by NOT using the supplier pricing. It gave the dealership more flexibility to work with me that way. I suggest you find a dealer that will beat the supplier pricing. I found several when I was looking for my truck.

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I too got the supplier price through my company, however the dealer must give that price to you if you go that route. As was said before, it's the supplier pricing minus any rebates that you qualify for. You CAN NOT negotiate down from this. The dealers aren't allowed.

 

When I bought my truck, I actually got a lower price by NOT using the supplier pricing. It gave the dealership more flexibility to work with me that way. I suggest you find a dealer that will beat the supplier pricing. I found several when I was looking for my truck.

Ok so it's really not that great of a thing then?

 

Yeah if I can find a dealer that beats supplier pricing, it would be nice to use the GM points.

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The only way a dealer could beat supplier pricing is if they choose to dip into their holdback. If a dealer chooses to do that then great but I can't imagine many would unless they are trying to meet a sales goal that a supplier/employee deal doesn't count towards.

What I have found are somewhat unscrupulous dealers neglecting to add factory to dealer incentives to the supplier deal making it look like they are giving you a better deal without it. The supplier/employee pricing requires ALL rebates / incentives to be applied, including hidden factory to dealer rebates. In fact, they cannot even enter the deal into the system as a GMS/E deal if all incentives aren't included, it will kick it back.

I've been using supplier pricing for over 15 years with all the manufacturers and I've heard the stories about how people beat the price I paid without it buy upon further digging there was always a trade or some other wild card that made the deals different.

For reference, I just purchased a 2014 Silverado LT with an MSRP of $36860 for $30765 plus a $75 dealer fee vs. their "by law" required $699 dealer fee that would have been tacked on if it weren't a supplier deal (Florida law on dealer fees is stupid, the dealer cannot waive the fee if they have charged anyone the fee in the past. The only exception is on supplier/employee deals). The deal required no negotiation, I had a price in 30 seconds. I can't imagine I could have negotiated a much better deal had I spent 2 hours beating them down but YMMV.

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Some dealers in my area advertise employee pricing for their vehicles. Some advertise invoice or supplier pricing. If you can find one of those in your area, you may be able to use your GM cc points. Dealers have ways of making up the difference, usually on your trade. I have used supplier pricing for the last 10 years or so. Only haggling has been on the trade. I am a repeat customer at my dealership so they know that I know my facts. I go in with a set number on what the difference is between their vehicle and my trade. Then I target that number in my negotiations. If we get to it or beat it, I'm happy. That's the bottom line, if you're happy with your deal. Everyone leaves money on the table, unless they get at the bottom line dealer's cost.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Some dealers in my area advertise employee pricing for their vehicles. Some advertise invoice or supplier pricing. If you can find one of those in your area, you may be able to use your GM cc points. Dealers have ways of making up the difference, usually on your trade. I have used supplier pricing for the last 10 years or so. Only haggling has been on the trade. I am a repeat customer at my dealership so they know that I know my facts. I go in with a set number on what the difference is between their vehicle and my trade. Then I target that number in my negotiations. If we get to it or beat it, I'm happy. That's the bottom line, if you're happy with your deal. Everyone leaves money on the table, unless they get at the bottom line dealer's cost.

 

 

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That's right. Pick a number you're comfortable with and go from there. Sometimes, I tell them upfront so it eliminates a bunch of wasted time for me. I've done that the past 4 purchases and have been pleased, most times over the phone. Once I show in person, they beat the phone price too. With so much of today's information online, hours of haggling is a thing of the past.

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I got my 2011 Silverado for the supplier price and used my gm card points but the dealer just gave me that price and didn't make much on the truck he didn't use the supplier program just sold it into his holdback for that price...had they been willing to do that on a 14 I may have gotten one...

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I don't see the benefit of supplier or employee pricing. The dealership I always do business with always sells me the vehicle at invoice minus half the holdback plus advertising. I also ask for a 3rd key cut, window tint all around and a set of all weather mats.

 

I am sure buying 6 vehicles from them in 4 years and always trading in ultra low mileage no need to condition trades helps things. The might make $400 off the new truck, but make several grand on my trade in.

 

Will

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Just to clarify, the supplier pricing is a great deal if you just want to walk into your closest dealer and have an easy, no haggle deal. It will save you money, however with a little bit of work you can find dealers who will throw in extras and dip into their holdbacks if you choose not to use it.

 

It's really up to you to decide what your time and money are worth. The dealer that I got my truck from made most of their money on used vehicles so didn't mind cutting me a great deal that beat the supplier pricing. Keep in mind that I spent two weeks bidding dealers against eachother over the phone. I didn't have a trade either so it was an easy apples to apples comparrison.

 

Whichever route you go or deal you get, so long as you have peace about it, that's all that matters.

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I get employee pricing and here is m advice. One supplier is not the same as the employee discount. You can combine supplier/employee with pretty much all offers minus your GM Cc points(which in IMO get a new Cc for flights or something) Once you tell them you have one of those pricing modules they are done thats all most of them will do. But that doesnt mean you cant try and squeeze more out of them. And it depends on your area as well. I tried the ok thats GM pricing what can you do and they said thats it, I went to others and they said the same thing, so i think they are kind of protecting eachother. But I have been successful in getting bed liners, oil changes, and a few bucks here and there and have always got more for my trade.

 

What the dealer wont tell you is this. With GM pricing the dealer gets all or most of that money back, so in essence they get full price for the vehicle and and arent losing anything. What I would do is find GM pricing on your vehicle there is a GM supplier pricing web page http://prod3.gmautobuilder.com/BuildYourOwn/GMFamilyFirst.byo?priceformula=SU. Put in everything you want. Bring this with you but do not show up or speak of it. Go in and ask for the best price, if its higher pull this page out and tell them you get supplier pricing.

 

With employee pricing I just got 5 grand off on my 14.

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