Bad lifter knock on cold start 2000 Sierra

xrbeav · December 17, 2013

I have a 2000 Sierra with a little over 212k miles. It has developed a really bad lifter knock when starting cold. This is not the lifter tick that I see in other posts. Once it warms up it goes away, but it is taking longer and longer to quiet down. When I first noticed it, it would quiet down in 5 sec or so. Now it can take 10 or more minutes depending on how cold it is outside. Once it is warmed up, it runs great. The sound is like hydraulic lifters that have run dry and take a while to get oil back into them. I have changed the oil and filter every 3k miles with Castrol 10-40w oil. I do not have any codes. The oil pressure is reading fine at 40 and over depending on rpm.

The question is, are there any suggestions on how to fix without tearing the engine apart? I don't want to do that until it warms up in the summer. And secondly does this sound like lifters gone bad or something worse?

grogman45459 · December 17, 2013

I have a 2000 Sierra with a little over 212k miles. It has developed a really bad lifter knock when starting cold. This is not the lifter tick that I see in other posts. Once it warms up it goes away, but it is taking longer and longer to quiet down. When I first noticed it, it would quiet down in 5 sec or so. Now it can take 10 or more minutes depending on how cold it is outside. Once it is warmed up, it runs great. The sound is like hydraulic lifters that have run dry and take a while to get oil back into them. I have changed the oil and filter every 3k miles with Castrol 10-40w oil. I do not have any codes. The oil pressure is reading fine at 40 and over depending on rpm.

The question is, are there any suggestions on how to fix without tearing the engine apart? I don't want to do that until it warms up in the summer. And secondly does this sound like lifters gone bad or something worse?

I found this video of help, but decided to add a half quart of ATF fluid to my oil, drive it for a hundred miles or so, then change the oil out. Did it again a second time and my ticking and also the knocking went away.

1997SierraSLT · December 17, 2013

I used an STP oil treatment additive a few years ago as I had a stuck lifter. It worked. You poor it in, run the engine for a certain length of time, drain the oil, fill it up with new oil. just followed the directions and it worked like a charm.

xrbeav · December 18, 2013

Thanks I will give the "flush" thing a try.

jblakeney · January 1, 2014

My 3/4 ton did that for a while. I poored a can of sea foam in drove it about 500 miles, changed the oil. Did that a few times, its as quite as a mouse again.

RednGrey · January 2, 2014

Also these trucks had a problem with what was called "piston slap" It was a common problem on some GM 5.3 trucks and last i had checked gm had always claimed it would not hurt anything. Brother has a 2005 silverado that has this problem. Lasts about 5 mins after start up cold with a slight puff of blue smoke as-well. been running it like that for 80000km now with no issues, Just annoying.

russellb · January 2, 2014

Check the backlash in the valve train with feeler gauges and adjust accordingly. Try a Lucas oil product, but most importantly is to use the recommended oil for your engine. New Chevy engines have more oil passages but they are smaller in size, if your oil is too thick its like putting a cork in it and restricting the flow. If the problem persists, its time to do an overhaul on your valve system.

mike94silverado · January 2, 2014

Seafoam does wonders

wbnev7 · January 3, 2014

I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 5.3 with 222,000 miles. It still runs great and gets decent mileage.

It has developed an intermittent lifter tick driving (about once a week then it goes away) and during cold start up ( for about 2 seconds) when the truck has sat for two or more hours.

I have maintained my vehicle with only Mobil One and Castrol Synthetic including a filter change every 4000 miles on the dot.

I have recently done the following to correct the noise lifter(s)

5 minute engine flushes before dropping oil

Risilone oil treatment(s)

Removed the valve covers and rocker arms and followed the procedure to clean the lifters per the infamous video on you tube. The valve covers were very clean due to the high level of maintenance

of this engine.

I have used an AC Delco Filter to help the oil back flowing from the lifters.

10-30w oil instead of 5w-30

High mileage Synthetic oil

I have also added small amounts of transmission oil added to the oil.

None of the above supposed remedies have worked.

The problem is not a dirty lifter, (in my case) it is a worn lifter(s).

The other problem is that I need to face the facts.......

I wise old mechanic told me that If something clicks it may go away but if it comes back "it is a worn part and needs to be replaced".

The engine still has life and runs great, but do not want to possibly risk a lifter totally collapsing and causing other problems.

I have concluded I have gotten my moneys worth out of this engine and I will be pulling the heads and intake manifold to replace the lifters (cam, etc.) and any other worn components along the way. I am sure once I complete the repairs I can get another 100k out of this engine.

This engine has performed great and is entitled to a few new parts that I can do myself. I know I would like to have the engine than runs 400,000 miles with no problems but that would be a rare circumstance.

Good luck

russellb · January 4, 2014

I'd rather go to the scrappers here and buy a 5.3 for $500 with 120,000 k on it. Guys up here do it all the time. But Iguess if your that ambitious then fill your boots.

67ChevyRedneck · January 6, 2014

I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 5.3 with 222,000 miles. It still runs great and gets decent mileage.

It has developed an intermittent lifter tick driving (about once a week then it goes away) and during cold start up ( for about 2 seconds) when the truck has sat for two or more hours.

I have maintained my vehicle with only Mobil One and Castrol Synthetic including a filter change every 4000 miles on the dot.

I have recently done the following to correct the noise lifter(s)

5 minute engine flushes before dropping oil

Risilone oil treatment(s)

Removed the valve covers and rocker arms and followed the procedure to clean the lifters per the infamous video on you tube. The valve covers were very clean due to the high level of maintenance

of this engine.

I have used an AC Delco Filter to help the oil back flowing from the lifters.

10-30w oil instead of 5w-30

High mileage Synthetic oil

I have also added small amounts of transmission oil added to the oil.

None of the above supposed remedies have worked.

The problem is not a dirty lifter, (in my case) it is a worn lifter(s).

The other problem is that I need to face the facts.......

I wise old mechanic told me that If something clicks it may go away but if it comes back "it is a worn part and needs to be replaced".

The engine still has life and runs great, but do not want to possibly risk a lifter totally collapsing and causing other problems.

I have concluded I have gotten my moneys worth out of this engine and I will be pulling the heads and intake manifold to replace the lifters (cam, etc.) and any other worn components along the way. I am sure once I complete the repairs I can get another 100k out of this engine.

This engine has performed great and is entitled to a few new parts that I can do myself. I know I would like to have the engine than runs 400,000 miles with no problems but that would be a rare circumstance.

Good luck

I've performed pretty much all the same "fixes" as you. My truck has 152K and it's getting to where it can be heard most of the time. I've taken it to GM and their head tech believes (like I thought) it's one of the No. 1 lifters. Truck runs very well. No power loss. Just noisy. People do cam and lifter swaps on these motors all the time, I'm pretty confident I can do it.

Summit has a TON of kits to chose from. I would like one with a new timing set, cam, and lifters. I would like something stock or very mild (doesn't require a PCM tune) (prefer just stock though, motor and trans have a lot of miles on them) and does anyone make a "better lifter" to replace the stock ones? There seems to be way too many lifter failures, I know the stock ones have tiny oil passages that get blocked easily. Do you happen to know what PN's to get for a kit? Summit has SO many different kits. Truck is a 2000 Z71 with 5.3L.

I have owned and maintained my truck pretty well, valve covers and top of heads were very clean when valve covers were removed. I think replacing the cam and lifters is worth a shot to get at least another 50K out of the truck. I've also been checking my oil changes... no glitter... yet...

wbnev7 · January 8, 2014

Thanks for the response 67 Chevy Redneck.

Your 5.3 lifter noise sounds like it is more advanced than mine is. I agree it is worth it to replace your lifters cam etc. especially if you know your engine and I am sure you maintained it well. You never know how long these trucks will be on the road, if they get really old and maybe one day become collectable it nice to have matching numbers (engine vin etc.) LOL you never know.

I would say if your oil pressure is good (35-50psi) and it does not burn oil good mileage, good consistent compression you are most likely in good shape to remove the heads and replace the lifters. Yes it is a job but will be worth it. May be a bit difficult to torque the rear head bolts by the fire wall.

A valid suggestion was made to replace the engine (pick and pull) I am sure there are some good deals but I know my engine as you know yours and you do not know what you get sometimes with a salvaged or used engine maintained by a stranger.

I am familiar with Summit and will consider some of their parts but am hopeful and will check with GM as to see if they have upgraded the lifter quality for the 06 5.3.

Hope this helps the original post by XRBEAV.

67ChevyRedneck · January 11, 2014

It was quiet for a long time. I have classic cars that I drive a lot. The Z71 only gets 5 or 6K put on it per year. It's been making the noise for probably 3 years now? Again, I thought it was an exhaust tick at first because of a broken manifold bolt. It's only recently been audible more and I think the cold weather caused it. It's almost never below 30 here and it was near zero for a couple of days. Oil was probably thick from the cold... caused a dry start on an already bad lifter...

After getting a few quotes I'll try this myself. GM wanted $3,300 for a Cam, Lifter, & Timing set swap and a new WP while they're at it. No way. A new crate engine is $3,300 and I KNOW I can install that myself. A rebuild is around $2,500. I called a couple shops and they wanted ~2,500 to do it. I can probably get all the parts and tools for $800. I think I'll try it myself.

If I screw up and ruin it I'll pull it for a new motor.

I know what the GM part numbers are, but they're $$$ and I don't know if the lifters are a revised design or not.

I hate spending money on my daily, but I have had it for 9 years and have only bought plugs and wires once, replaced 4x4 dash switch, replaced shocks once and I'm on the 2nd set of tires I bought. Not too bad. If I kill it I can drive one of the others for a while.

mike94silverado · January 11, 2014

nothing to lose trying it yourself at high mileage on a non DD.....

wbnev7 · January 13, 2014

Agreed. Its worth the risk. I live in Nevada and have lost more in the local casinos..

Looks like the rear head bolts that are close to the firewall (bolts # 7 10 and 15) may be a challenge to torque. An unanswered question is can you torque bolts accurately if you have to attach a swivel drive and extension to your torque wrench.

To continue to torque the heads correctly Autozone has an Angle Gauge as the head bolts need to be torqued to 22 ft pounds ,then 90 90 50 with the angle guage. The 99-2006 Haynes manual states the torque specs and procedure on page 2B2. I will also need a inch pound torque wrench for the intake manifold.

There is an oil sensor switch on the rear top of the galley I will replace.

One question I have not determined whether to use a thread tap or chaser to clean the threads in the block. Maybe someone knows which is preferred.

Not telling anyone what to do but as I prepare these are some of the items I had to look for as I have made a plan which includes procedural reminders and tools needed.

I will also be checking the calibration on my torque wrench.

My recent use of the truck is that the intermittent lifter noise has not occurred while driving on the road for about a month, but still makes noise for about 2 seconds when starting the vehicle. My truck just hit 224,000 miles. Despite the mileage I may have a bit more time before removing the heads but am all set to go. I am pretty mechanically inclined and will have two buddies who are ASE mechanics that will be assisting.

Good luck with your project and let us know how it goes.